Not a real good idea. If the buiyer closes the case you, the seller, are stuck with the defect.
If you have ebay messages stating "all is well, yada yada" from your buyer, you need to call ebay right away, ask for someone who can view ebay messages and get this claim closed in YOUR FAVOR WHILE YOU ARE ON THE PHONE> do not settle for the typical "there is nothing we can do" mantra, or "we will get back to you in 72 hours"...both are lies.
Though ebay touted for a while now that "opened cases would not count against you"....they either changed their minds or lied from the start.
If you don't have enough sales to support a quarterly "look back"...that buyer closed case will be a defect bullet in your ebay vest for an entire year.
Best to get rid of these right away. Do not listen to the nonsense of "your buyers love you", this "will not hurt you", " there is nothing we can do"....ALL LIES.
ebay can remove defects, they just can't be bothered.
Someone suggested that each ebay CS is allowed so many "removals". After their number is up, they get DEFECTIVE ratings on their customer service. Though I forget the SOURCE it made complete sense at the time. .....
....you get a rep that has "used up his good customer service tokens" you are hosed per a solution to your problem.
Sonntag, 18. Mai 2014
In Chrome or Firefox
on EVERY listing, I always have errors. The prices won't stay. I enter them. The space blanks out. I have to click CONTINUE, get an error, then it takes. What a waste of time. And there's always more errors.
-Changing from AUCTION to Fixed won't take. Again I have to click CONTINUE, get an error & then enter my data.
-When I enter a price, the page scolls to some other place in the page.
-When I change any item, the page scrolls to odd places, aways from where I was, often putting back what was there before I changed it.
-FREE SHIPPING gets selected when I don't want it.
-I can't figue a pattern, but items will change to something other than I entered.
It's so annoying & costs me sales. If I don't check a listing thoroughly after it's listed, I have had messed up shipping & prices. I want to be able to trust what I put in. Not take three & four times the time to get an item up for sale.
-I don't think it's any browser setting or ebay setting.
-this has been going on for MONTHS & you know calling ebay will not get help
-there are plenty of other listing problems. This is just a taste.
-do others have these problems?
-any solutions?
-Changing from AUCTION to Fixed won't take. Again I have to click CONTINUE, get an error & then enter my data.
-When I enter a price, the page scolls to some other place in the page.
-When I change any item, the page scrolls to odd places, aways from where I was, often putting back what was there before I changed it.
-FREE SHIPPING gets selected when I don't want it.
-I can't figue a pattern, but items will change to something other than I entered.
It's so annoying & costs me sales. If I don't check a listing thoroughly after it's listed, I have had messed up shipping & prices. I want to be able to trust what I put in. Not take three & four times the time to get an item up for sale.
-I don't think it's any browser setting or ebay setting.
-this has been going on for MONTHS & you know calling ebay will not get help
-there are plenty of other listing problems. This is just a taste.
-do others have these problems?
-any solutions?
I need some advice on what to do next
I have a repeat buyer who purchased an item from me on Wednesday. She is only a few towns from me and I have nevre had issues with this buyer before. When I went to the post office to drop off my packages for that day the worker scanned them as delivered instead of accepted. I know a lot of people have had this happened before. What happend is on our end of the tracking it shows delivered and thats it but on USPS end it still shows all the scans and the real delivery. Most of my buyers from that day received their packages and left positive feedback.
Today my repeat buyer from a few towns over wrote me and said she did not recieve her package yet. She also said that tracking shows that it was delivered elsewhere. I explained that sometimes the clerk at the post office will scan delivered instead of accepted but it will still get delivered as usual, just updates on their end. I called the post office and luckly come someone who was willing to check into the tracking number for me even though the post office was closed for the day. She said that the package was delivered the next day at her location.
I need some advice on how to handle this next. I already wrote my buyer to let her know this information and asked her to see if maybe someone else in the house may have put the package somewhere. I'm also going to go on Monday and get a print out of the tracking for my records just in case. What would be the best thing to tell my buyer if she tells me she still did not receive her package?If they will give the print-out of internal tracking showing delivered I would send that via ebay messages to the buyer.. and offer to file a lost /stolen mail report with their PO for them since the PO is claiming delivered.
Hard to say how ebay will decide since the online tracking is not available usually would always be in the buyers favor.
You would need to refund just before the case can be escalated.
Although, I would call ebay before that happens if the buyer still insists not delivered after you send them the printout. Ask the CSR to read all messages and they can see that printout.
No fault is not a great decision, (although way better than unresolved case strike)and that is what I would try for at the very least.
No fault leaves FB open and the buyer can dish a defect to your FB/DSRs..
Try the call back option when you call ebay.. always if possible..:smileyhappy:
Sometimes ebay issues a courtesy refund to the buyer to close the case as no fault, more often if low cost item and buyer is not making regular claims.
Today my repeat buyer from a few towns over wrote me and said she did not recieve her package yet. She also said that tracking shows that it was delivered elsewhere. I explained that sometimes the clerk at the post office will scan delivered instead of accepted but it will still get delivered as usual, just updates on their end. I called the post office and luckly come someone who was willing to check into the tracking number for me even though the post office was closed for the day. She said that the package was delivered the next day at her location.
I need some advice on how to handle this next. I already wrote my buyer to let her know this information and asked her to see if maybe someone else in the house may have put the package somewhere. I'm also going to go on Monday and get a print out of the tracking for my records just in case. What would be the best thing to tell my buyer if she tells me she still did not receive her package?If they will give the print-out of internal tracking showing delivered I would send that via ebay messages to the buyer.. and offer to file a lost /stolen mail report with their PO for them since the PO is claiming delivered.
Hard to say how ebay will decide since the online tracking is not available usually would always be in the buyers favor.
You would need to refund just before the case can be escalated.
Although, I would call ebay before that happens if the buyer still insists not delivered after you send them the printout. Ask the CSR to read all messages and they can see that printout.
No fault is not a great decision, (although way better than unresolved case strike)and that is what I would try for at the very least.
No fault leaves FB open and the buyer can dish a defect to your FB/DSRs..
Try the call back option when you call ebay.. always if possible..:smileyhappy:
Sometimes ebay issues a courtesy refund to the buyer to close the case as no fault, more often if low cost item and buyer is not making regular claims.
How to sell smart on Ebay
Be thorough in listing your item(s). The more you describe what you are selling the better the bidder is going to understand what you they are buying from you.
To make your auction stand out, include pictures. Not only do you include pictures but make sure there are multiple pictures and that they are clear and of good quality.
List the return policy and/or exchange policy so that there are no any unanswered or confusion in the listing. If you have a no return policy make sure to list that in your auction ahead of time so there are no expectations before a bidder bids on your auction.
Free shipping is always best but do your own calculating on items and make sure the shipping is reasonable. Overcharging for shipping will surely make bidders go elsewhere.
Never have a "handling fee."
Always list on your auction to ask questions before bidding.
Make sure you list the forms of payments the you prefer before selling.
Ask bidders to pay within 3 days after the auction has ended.
Please leave feedback and resolve any issues before negative feedback is left. Best indoor aerial for UK Freeview
Best indoor aerial for Freeview. Best loft aerial. Outdoor aerials.
You can use absolutely ANY aerial indoors and it's easy to experiment because it doesn't involve dangerous climbing of ladders.
However, aerials indoors generally perform very poorly compared with those mounted above the roof. The reason is simple: the fabric of the walls impedes the signal AND there's a lot of interference from nearby equipment and mains wiring. Consequently, an aerial performs best if pointed towards the transmitter through a window. DON'T make the mistake of putting it close to a TV, where interference is greatest and signal is weakest. The aerial should be as far away from the TV, DVD, computer, Router, phone, fluorescent light etc. as possible, otherwise it will be swamped by interference. (You won't see the interference on the digital picture but it will make reliable reception impossible.)
If you don't know which way to point the aerial, type your UK postcode into the Wolfbane web site signal predictor page and look for the compass bearing. This page also predicts the likely signal strength. Anything below 30 dBuV/m is unlikely to work. You'll also find information and relevant links on the SatCure web site.
Indoor aerials are available, which are small and neat. However, size matters and indoor aerials are always a poor compromise. Some even have a built-in amplifier, which can boost the interference and make reception worse! So, wherever possible, test the available signal with your existing aerial or the cheapest you can buy or borrow. If it does NOT receive a stable signal on all channels then you can be certain that an indoor aerial will not.
The best aerial for all uses has been found by SatCure to be the log-periodic type. This has the advantage of a relatively constant gain across the UHF frequency spectrum and is also better at rejecting interference than the conventional Yagi type of aerial. Also, unlike the Yagi, a log-periodic has NO bulky reflector screen sticking up at the rear. This fact makes the log-periodic easier to hide on top of a cupboard, for example. When shopping for Littlest Pet Shop pets, a new buyer is often surprised by how high the prices are on eBay and at consignment. Most Littlest Pet Shop pets were originally purchased for $10-20 per set at a Wal-Mart, Target, or Toys R Us, so its disheartening that each pet often runs $5 per pet even when used. But remember, the seller on eBay is shipping you a product and even if the product is priced rather inexpensively, the mail costs are set. Because the pets can be shipped first class due to their light weight, if you are interested in a specific pet, ask your seller if they will ship to you via first class in a mailing envelop to reduce costs.
Mailing envelops can save on shipping
Second, if you are not interested in a specific pet, buy in bulk via an Littlest Pet Shop lot. The more pets you purchase at one time, the more likely you are to get a lower price per pet. You will also find a better price from someone looking to clear out their own or their child's toy box, rather than a professional eBay seller who caters to the collectors. In addition, if you are not looking to get a specific playset -- search for auctions which have pets only as the seller can ship the pets more cheaply than the pets with a setting / playhouse.
Finally, make sure that you know the state of the pets before you purchase. Look closely at pictures. Buy only from sellers who show multiple views of the pets. If you are concerned about marks on the pets, ask the seller about that. In particular, Littlest Pet Shop pets often have initials written on them -- most often on the feet, but sometimes on the back of the head. If you can't see all sides of the pet, ask the seller if there are any vandalizing marks beyond normal play or if there are any initials.
To make your auction stand out, include pictures. Not only do you include pictures but make sure there are multiple pictures and that they are clear and of good quality.
List the return policy and/or exchange policy so that there are no any unanswered or confusion in the listing. If you have a no return policy make sure to list that in your auction ahead of time so there are no expectations before a bidder bids on your auction.
Free shipping is always best but do your own calculating on items and make sure the shipping is reasonable. Overcharging for shipping will surely make bidders go elsewhere.
Never have a "handling fee."
Always list on your auction to ask questions before bidding.
Make sure you list the forms of payments the you prefer before selling.
Ask bidders to pay within 3 days after the auction has ended.
Please leave feedback and resolve any issues before negative feedback is left. Best indoor aerial for UK Freeview
Best indoor aerial for Freeview. Best loft aerial. Outdoor aerials.
You can use absolutely ANY aerial indoors and it's easy to experiment because it doesn't involve dangerous climbing of ladders.
However, aerials indoors generally perform very poorly compared with those mounted above the roof. The reason is simple: the fabric of the walls impedes the signal AND there's a lot of interference from nearby equipment and mains wiring. Consequently, an aerial performs best if pointed towards the transmitter through a window. DON'T make the mistake of putting it close to a TV, where interference is greatest and signal is weakest. The aerial should be as far away from the TV, DVD, computer, Router, phone, fluorescent light etc. as possible, otherwise it will be swamped by interference. (You won't see the interference on the digital picture but it will make reliable reception impossible.)
If you don't know which way to point the aerial, type your UK postcode into the Wolfbane web site signal predictor page and look for the compass bearing. This page also predicts the likely signal strength. Anything below 30 dBuV/m is unlikely to work. You'll also find information and relevant links on the SatCure web site.
Indoor aerials are available, which are small and neat. However, size matters and indoor aerials are always a poor compromise. Some even have a built-in amplifier, which can boost the interference and make reception worse! So, wherever possible, test the available signal with your existing aerial or the cheapest you can buy or borrow. If it does NOT receive a stable signal on all channels then you can be certain that an indoor aerial will not.
The best aerial for all uses has been found by SatCure to be the log-periodic type. This has the advantage of a relatively constant gain across the UHF frequency spectrum and is also better at rejecting interference than the conventional Yagi type of aerial. Also, unlike the Yagi, a log-periodic has NO bulky reflector screen sticking up at the rear. This fact makes the log-periodic easier to hide on top of a cupboard, for example. When shopping for Littlest Pet Shop pets, a new buyer is often surprised by how high the prices are on eBay and at consignment. Most Littlest Pet Shop pets were originally purchased for $10-20 per set at a Wal-Mart, Target, or Toys R Us, so its disheartening that each pet often runs $5 per pet even when used. But remember, the seller on eBay is shipping you a product and even if the product is priced rather inexpensively, the mail costs are set. Because the pets can be shipped first class due to their light weight, if you are interested in a specific pet, ask your seller if they will ship to you via first class in a mailing envelop to reduce costs.
Mailing envelops can save on shipping
Second, if you are not interested in a specific pet, buy in bulk via an Littlest Pet Shop lot. The more pets you purchase at one time, the more likely you are to get a lower price per pet. You will also find a better price from someone looking to clear out their own or their child's toy box, rather than a professional eBay seller who caters to the collectors. In addition, if you are not looking to get a specific playset -- search for auctions which have pets only as the seller can ship the pets more cheaply than the pets with a setting / playhouse.
Finally, make sure that you know the state of the pets before you purchase. Look closely at pictures. Buy only from sellers who show multiple views of the pets. If you are concerned about marks on the pets, ask the seller about that. In particular, Littlest Pet Shop pets often have initials written on them -- most often on the feet, but sometimes on the back of the head. If you can't see all sides of the pet, ask the seller if there are any vandalizing marks beyond normal play or if there are any initials.
How to save money gardening
In the last couple of years, I took up gardening. It started with a new house purchase in which the previous owner allowed the whole frontyard to be overtaken by Euonymus vines and the whole backyard to fall into disarray. I was not even aware that there was a garden plot divided by stones because the vines in front were so thick.
As I began to clean up the front and back yards and add grass, I also wanted to add some visual interest with garden areas. From several owners previous, there were scattered plants that were thriving but in bad spots. So as I changed the landscape, I kept those plants and transplanted them. I was able to take peonies from the middle of the side yard and create a full garden along the side of the house. I was able to take a very large bleeding heart and divide into multiple plants in a backyard garden. But the best gardening money saver has been patience and seeds!
There are so many beautiful native plants and wildflowers out there. They are a great garden addition because they are well suited to your environment through adaptation -- therefore, they withstand the heat, the cold, the drought, etc. in your local area that can make many exotics wither and die. They are also quite often pollinator attractors, therefore helping the plight of the bees and bringing beautiful butterflies to your yard.
By planting native wildflower seeds in fall, and being patient while they establish themselves, you end up with a beautiful wild habitat for the price of a few seed packets!
As I began to clean up the front and back yards and add grass, I also wanted to add some visual interest with garden areas. From several owners previous, there were scattered plants that were thriving but in bad spots. So as I changed the landscape, I kept those plants and transplanted them. I was able to take peonies from the middle of the side yard and create a full garden along the side of the house. I was able to take a very large bleeding heart and divide into multiple plants in a backyard garden. But the best gardening money saver has been patience and seeds!
There are so many beautiful native plants and wildflowers out there. They are a great garden addition because they are well suited to your environment through adaptation -- therefore, they withstand the heat, the cold, the drought, etc. in your local area that can make many exotics wither and die. They are also quite often pollinator attractors, therefore helping the plight of the bees and bringing beautiful butterflies to your yard.
By planting native wildflower seeds in fall, and being patient while they establish themselves, you end up with a beautiful wild habitat for the price of a few seed packets!
The Old Debate Continues: Should I buy a Nitro or Poly Guitar
It seems that anywhere you look regarding the topic of guitar finishes you will inevitably run into arguments debating the merits of nitrocellulose lacquer versus just about anything else which is usually lumped into one lone category simply referred to as “poly”. As a player I strongly feel there is no perfect finish. They all have different characteristics that depending on the owner could be viewed as an asset or a liability.
NITROCELLULOSE
Most, if not all of the beloved vintage guitars from the 50’s and 60’s were finished with nitro. Most lacquers have a slightly lower level of gloss than it’s chemically cross linked counterparts. It’s usually slightly amber out of the can instead of water clear which can soften some colors. This is generally a good thing when you’re talking bursts but as it ages and yellows further it can change an opaque color to a totally different shade. Nitro. is not the most durable finish which attributes to the patina and wear it can develop over time. It can also be very disagreeable with certain guitar stands/hangers, colognes, bug spray, stickers or sometimes even sweat. There are some who love the way nitro. dulls, yellows, and checks but back when these guitars were just considered “used” those characteristics were not as revered by some and finish manufacturers in turn “fixed” these issues. Lacquers were made clearer, more flexible, the solids content increased and in turn doesn’t age exactly like the old stuff. Now I’m not claiming to have a secret stash of NOS lacquer or a proprietary recipe to mix my own old school nitro because I don’t but there are lacquers available that are closer to what was used back then, they just aren’t used by the companies who have customers complaining about sticky necks.
"POLY"
Okay, I put “poly” in quotes because it’s come to be a somewhat (if not outright) derogatory catch-all term for any finish that isn’t nitrocellulose lacquer. Doesn’t matter if it’s polyester, acrylic urethane, polyurethane enamel, UV curable acrylite, epoxy - it’s “poly” and it’s” bad”. Well, like I said earlier there is NO perfect finish and I certainly don’t think non nitro finishes are bad. They can be poorly applied but then again so can nitro. Most of these finishes are water clear and stay that way. Some folks may want a white guitar to stay white or silver metal flake guitar to maintain its “bling” factor. These finishes maintain their gloss and since they fully cure much faster than lacquer they usually keep that “new” look whereas lacquer can shrink back (deteriorate) over time allowing the grain of the wood to telegraph through the finish. Not necessarily a bad thing, just a matter of personal preference.
The most common complaint about non nitro finishes is that it’s too thick. Well it certainly can be applied thick and all those import guitars out there prove as much but with a little bit of care it can be applied as thinly as a good lacquer finish. In my years of production work my “poly” finishes averaged .009”-.012” give or take. Another misconception is that a nitro finish is automatically thin. This is not always case. I’ve stripped and re-sprayed a few factory nitro finishes that were easily double the thickness of the “poly” jobs I shoot. Just because someone sticks the words “thin skin” in front of nitro. doesn’t mean all nitro. finishes are thin.
In actuality manufacturers usually use a few different products for a “poly” finish. They start with UV curable sealer which allows them to level sand it the same day if need be. Epoxy and conventionally cured polyester sealers need more time to fully cure before they should be sanded. This step is followed by the color coat which is a very low solids (thin) acrylic urethane. This is followed by a few coats either a UV curable gloss topcoat or a clear acrylic urethane.
HYBRID
Another option is a mix. Using a catalyzed sealer underneath nitrocellulose is nothing new, ever heard of Fullerplast? It’s the sealer Fender used from the early days and for many years after, it is NOT nitro. Using a catalyzed sealer is good for folks who like the look of lacquer (and it does look good) but don’t want it to shrink back much and have the wood grain telegraph through the finish. Once again this is not right or wrong, we just want to accommodate preferences on an individual basis.
“Doesn’t nitro give you better tone?”
Easily one of the most hotly debated topics of guitar making. The notion that nitro is unequivocally the only true finish for guitars has been bandied about for so long now that it seems to have become a “fact”. It’s funny how many people I talk to that have to have nitro. but when I tell them it could check and will yellow over time they reply “Oh I didn’t know, I don’t want that”. There are a lot of great sounding vintage guitars and most vintage guitars have nitrocellulose lacquer (AKA nitro) finishes so therefore nitro. automatically makes a guitar sound better. Well there seem to be a lot of people that believe that, I’m not one of them and there are plenty of world class luithers/builders that agree. The general consensus is that all things being equal the chemical makeup of the finish does not affect the overall tone, the film thickness of the finish does. As I’ve stated above “poly” finishes can be sprayed (and are) as thinly a properly applied nitrocellulose finish. Nitro does not “breath” and like other non nitro. finishes it is also a plastic. I feel I can safely theorize that Leo Fender didn’t specify nitro. because he thought it made the guitars sound better. He used it because that’s all they had then. If he had access to the finishes that are available today you can bet your butt he would have used them and the only nitro. folks would be talking about would be drag bikes. That said we don’t dislike nitro. (well except for sanding it) and we understand that some like the way it feels, looks, and it’s repairability.
NITROCELLULOSE
Most, if not all of the beloved vintage guitars from the 50’s and 60’s were finished with nitro. Most lacquers have a slightly lower level of gloss than it’s chemically cross linked counterparts. It’s usually slightly amber out of the can instead of water clear which can soften some colors. This is generally a good thing when you’re talking bursts but as it ages and yellows further it can change an opaque color to a totally different shade. Nitro. is not the most durable finish which attributes to the patina and wear it can develop over time. It can also be very disagreeable with certain guitar stands/hangers, colognes, bug spray, stickers or sometimes even sweat. There are some who love the way nitro. dulls, yellows, and checks but back when these guitars were just considered “used” those characteristics were not as revered by some and finish manufacturers in turn “fixed” these issues. Lacquers were made clearer, more flexible, the solids content increased and in turn doesn’t age exactly like the old stuff. Now I’m not claiming to have a secret stash of NOS lacquer or a proprietary recipe to mix my own old school nitro because I don’t but there are lacquers available that are closer to what was used back then, they just aren’t used by the companies who have customers complaining about sticky necks.
"POLY"
Okay, I put “poly” in quotes because it’s come to be a somewhat (if not outright) derogatory catch-all term for any finish that isn’t nitrocellulose lacquer. Doesn’t matter if it’s polyester, acrylic urethane, polyurethane enamel, UV curable acrylite, epoxy - it’s “poly” and it’s” bad”. Well, like I said earlier there is NO perfect finish and I certainly don’t think non nitro finishes are bad. They can be poorly applied but then again so can nitro. Most of these finishes are water clear and stay that way. Some folks may want a white guitar to stay white or silver metal flake guitar to maintain its “bling” factor. These finishes maintain their gloss and since they fully cure much faster than lacquer they usually keep that “new” look whereas lacquer can shrink back (deteriorate) over time allowing the grain of the wood to telegraph through the finish. Not necessarily a bad thing, just a matter of personal preference.
The most common complaint about non nitro finishes is that it’s too thick. Well it certainly can be applied thick and all those import guitars out there prove as much but with a little bit of care it can be applied as thinly as a good lacquer finish. In my years of production work my “poly” finishes averaged .009”-.012” give or take. Another misconception is that a nitro finish is automatically thin. This is not always case. I’ve stripped and re-sprayed a few factory nitro finishes that were easily double the thickness of the “poly” jobs I shoot. Just because someone sticks the words “thin skin” in front of nitro. doesn’t mean all nitro. finishes are thin.
In actuality manufacturers usually use a few different products for a “poly” finish. They start with UV curable sealer which allows them to level sand it the same day if need be. Epoxy and conventionally cured polyester sealers need more time to fully cure before they should be sanded. This step is followed by the color coat which is a very low solids (thin) acrylic urethane. This is followed by a few coats either a UV curable gloss topcoat or a clear acrylic urethane.
HYBRID
Another option is a mix. Using a catalyzed sealer underneath nitrocellulose is nothing new, ever heard of Fullerplast? It’s the sealer Fender used from the early days and for many years after, it is NOT nitro. Using a catalyzed sealer is good for folks who like the look of lacquer (and it does look good) but don’t want it to shrink back much and have the wood grain telegraph through the finish. Once again this is not right or wrong, we just want to accommodate preferences on an individual basis.
“Doesn’t nitro give you better tone?”
Easily one of the most hotly debated topics of guitar making. The notion that nitro is unequivocally the only true finish for guitars has been bandied about for so long now that it seems to have become a “fact”. It’s funny how many people I talk to that have to have nitro. but when I tell them it could check and will yellow over time they reply “Oh I didn’t know, I don’t want that”. There are a lot of great sounding vintage guitars and most vintage guitars have nitrocellulose lacquer (AKA nitro) finishes so therefore nitro. automatically makes a guitar sound better. Well there seem to be a lot of people that believe that, I’m not one of them and there are plenty of world class luithers/builders that agree. The general consensus is that all things being equal the chemical makeup of the finish does not affect the overall tone, the film thickness of the finish does. As I’ve stated above “poly” finishes can be sprayed (and are) as thinly a properly applied nitrocellulose finish. Nitro does not “breath” and like other non nitro. finishes it is also a plastic. I feel I can safely theorize that Leo Fender didn’t specify nitro. because he thought it made the guitars sound better. He used it because that’s all they had then. If he had access to the finishes that are available today you can bet your butt he would have used them and the only nitro. folks would be talking about would be drag bikes. That said we don’t dislike nitro. (well except for sanding it) and we understand that some like the way it feels, looks, and it’s repairability.
Homey Dorm Essentials
A few essentials for a freshman
Mini Fridge (with freezer!) I found that having a freezer in your selected mini fridge will come in handy as the semester goes on, if not for that late night ice cream party or to have an ice pack in case of injury. It's well worth the extra money, and even then, they can be found at a very affordable price. The fridge I specfically purchased can be found at the link below.
Headboard - I found that having a headboard for that extra long twin bed that comes in most dorms made all the difference for me. It's nice to lean up against when you're cramming for that test you have tomorrow morning, and it makes the room feel 100% more like home without that huge gap between your pillow and mattress and the wall. These can be handmade with a piece of plywood, stuffing, cloth, and a nail gun, but you can also purchase it off of ebay, the link below.
Printer - This is something a lot of freshmen don't think about coming into college, as most colleges have computer labs. However, the convenience of having your own printer is extraordinary, and if you don't have your own you will more than likely regret it. If you're late and you need to print off that last minute homework assignment, having your own printer accessible to you right there will indeed come in handy. It is a definite must have
Rug - A definite essential, and a mistake that I made by not getting one initially. It's amazing what a difference a rug can make in a dorm room. Most dorm rooms are not carpeted, and a nice, warm rug to come back to after a long stressful day of class can make all the difference. In my opinion, it completes a room. Rugs are inexpensive, and can help add that final touch to your dorm room to give it that homey feel!
Mini Fridge (with freezer!) I found that having a freezer in your selected mini fridge will come in handy as the semester goes on, if not for that late night ice cream party or to have an ice pack in case of injury. It's well worth the extra money, and even then, they can be found at a very affordable price. The fridge I specfically purchased can be found at the link below.
Headboard - I found that having a headboard for that extra long twin bed that comes in most dorms made all the difference for me. It's nice to lean up against when you're cramming for that test you have tomorrow morning, and it makes the room feel 100% more like home without that huge gap between your pillow and mattress and the wall. These can be handmade with a piece of plywood, stuffing, cloth, and a nail gun, but you can also purchase it off of ebay, the link below.
Printer - This is something a lot of freshmen don't think about coming into college, as most colleges have computer labs. However, the convenience of having your own printer is extraordinary, and if you don't have your own you will more than likely regret it. If you're late and you need to print off that last minute homework assignment, having your own printer accessible to you right there will indeed come in handy. It is a definite must have
Rug - A definite essential, and a mistake that I made by not getting one initially. It's amazing what a difference a rug can make in a dorm room. Most dorm rooms are not carpeted, and a nice, warm rug to come back to after a long stressful day of class can make all the difference. In my opinion, it completes a room. Rugs are inexpensive, and can help add that final touch to your dorm room to give it that homey feel!
Although she bought it a month ago when did she receive the shirt?
This buyer "popitdontdrop*t" from Portugal bought a shirt from me MORE than a month ago. And a few days ago, she opened a case on eBay with reason "item not as described", then sent me a messgae telling me the shirt has a stain on it and she wants to know whether she should send the picture to my eBay or my email.
I responded immediately telling her to send to my eBay, and waited 4 days. Well, no response from her and the file will be automatically escalated to eBay if she doesn't respond and matter is not resolved.
I don't want to lose on both item and money, so I clicked on (Require buyer to return the item for a full refund) because that was my return policy on that auction.
This evening, the buyer left me another message, accusing me for making a deciscion without her consent. And she would send pictures to eBay plus escalating the case and leaving me a negative feedback.
Given the way she reacts, I figured she could highly possibly be a scammer because first, she never wanted to send item back, and 2nd, she thought I'm a new seller and I would give in and issue her a full refund without asking her for the item back because I'm the new kid on the block that knows sh** about scammer buyers on this platform.
Could some experts here tell me what I should do for my next move? I will not give in to buyers that want to take advantage of the eBay buyer protection. If my item is defective and they send it back, no problem, I will send a refund and thank them for their business anyway. But if they are here to rip off new sellers thinking they could get stuff for free here, there is no way I will let them rob legally and I will do everything I can to stop this from happeneing.
I responded immediately telling her to send to my eBay, and waited 4 days. Well, no response from her and the file will be automatically escalated to eBay if she doesn't respond and matter is not resolved.
I don't want to lose on both item and money, so I clicked on (Require buyer to return the item for a full refund) because that was my return policy on that auction.
This evening, the buyer left me another message, accusing me for making a deciscion without her consent. And she would send pictures to eBay plus escalating the case and leaving me a negative feedback.
Given the way she reacts, I figured she could highly possibly be a scammer because first, she never wanted to send item back, and 2nd, she thought I'm a new seller and I would give in and issue her a full refund without asking her for the item back because I'm the new kid on the block that knows sh** about scammer buyers on this platform.
Could some experts here tell me what I should do for my next move? I will not give in to buyers that want to take advantage of the eBay buyer protection. If my item is defective and they send it back, no problem, I will send a refund and thank them for their business anyway. But if they are here to rip off new sellers thinking they could get stuff for free here, there is no way I will let them rob legally and I will do everything I can to stop this from happeneing.
How to tell if a Littlest Pet Shop 675 Dachshund is original
There are several Littlest Pet Shop pets that are considered hard to find or cream of the crop collectibles. There's the Race About Ranch Kitty Cat #339, the two-toned collie dog #58, and the #577 great dane with one blue and one brown eye. Then there is the #675 dachshund puppy dog, also called Savannah.
Somehow, of the "Big Four", only dachshund #675 ever was widely copied as an aftermarket production from China. While there are many pets copied from China, most are just random selections from the LIttlest Pet Shop series and not highly sought after or high priced pets. In copying #675 and selling on eBay, the producers created some confusion in the purchase of this dachshund as an open package collectible. While many eBay sellers may market their items as "original", how do you, the buyer, really know whether this is a genuine original or an "original" reproduction?
The reproduction or after-market pets, are actually quite well made and have very little to distinguish them from the originals. If you are just looking to have the pet as a play toy, you are in luck as the cost of these after-market reproductions is dramatically less for a very similar looking pet. But if you are trying to add an original to your collection, there are a few tells.
The most obvious one and only one really visible in photos is the left eye as you are looking at the dachshund. While on the original the green and yellow lines follow the curve of the black in the eye; on the reproduction, the green and yellow line swerve downward as you can see above. The white of the eye is split in two by these lines.
The second, less obvious tell, and the only one that really affects the quality of the reproduction, is that the plastic stick that attaches the head is a bit lower quality on these. I've had one break before during shipping, whereas I've never seen a LPS head break in hundreds of other shippings. Under normal play, the head will stay attached with no problem; but if you know there will be rough play, be forewarned.
In conclusion, aftermarket may be just the way to get dachshund 675 at a reasonable cost; but you should be armed with the knowledge of what makes 675 an original versus an aftermarket pet. Happy shopping!
Somehow, of the "Big Four", only dachshund #675 ever was widely copied as an aftermarket production from China. While there are many pets copied from China, most are just random selections from the LIttlest Pet Shop series and not highly sought after or high priced pets. In copying #675 and selling on eBay, the producers created some confusion in the purchase of this dachshund as an open package collectible. While many eBay sellers may market their items as "original", how do you, the buyer, really know whether this is a genuine original or an "original" reproduction?
The reproduction or after-market pets, are actually quite well made and have very little to distinguish them from the originals. If you are just looking to have the pet as a play toy, you are in luck as the cost of these after-market reproductions is dramatically less for a very similar looking pet. But if you are trying to add an original to your collection, there are a few tells.
The most obvious one and only one really visible in photos is the left eye as you are looking at the dachshund. While on the original the green and yellow lines follow the curve of the black in the eye; on the reproduction, the green and yellow line swerve downward as you can see above. The white of the eye is split in two by these lines.
The second, less obvious tell, and the only one that really affects the quality of the reproduction, is that the plastic stick that attaches the head is a bit lower quality on these. I've had one break before during shipping, whereas I've never seen a LPS head break in hundreds of other shippings. Under normal play, the head will stay attached with no problem; but if you know there will be rough play, be forewarned.
In conclusion, aftermarket may be just the way to get dachshund 675 at a reasonable cost; but you should be armed with the knowledge of what makes 675 an original versus an aftermarket pet. Happy shopping!
ecause he stated that his listings were at the very top for several years
He never said he was entitled to it, but because of his account status and achievements eBay rewarded him by placing his listings at the top. We're all familiar to that. Think about it, if your sales drop significantly in a short period of time, you would panic too. Now once you realize the reason of the dramatic decrease of your sales is due to eBay's decision to place your listings at the very bottom of its respected category then you would cal eBay too for help. This is a life changing experience. Its impact could hurt a business so bad that eventuality the business will destroy and disappear. I can speak of it because I am currently going through this depressing phase. Our business went from 1800 transactions per month down to 600 transactions. All because of some rare magical incident which has caused each and every of my listings to take a nose down dip to the bottom of the page, and no employee, supervisor, manager, account specialist, and tech support rep has a valid explanation.Rick go to the search bar and type Mercedes dia and stop at that point and look at the suggestions. you will see eBay does not reccommend the words code reader, They recommend tool. Code reader are dead keywords for this item. The reason is because it is far to specific versus the word tool, which will bring back a larger subset for a buyer to filter through with the left side bar options, which are cultivated from a few diffrerent sources including your item specifics.
You also have to look at the category they are suggesting. You have it correct for this item, but many do not, and if there are more than one suggested categpry, then you should consider paying for 2nd category. I am not saying you should automatically buy it but certainly you should consider it.
These suggestions are what eBay would like you to use for your keywords in the title, item specifics, and also in your description. These suggestions are the path that ebay is directing buyers to so it helps quite a bit to be optimized to these suggestions. By doing these things you will also do much better with external search engines. A lot of traffic can be harvested from google, yahoo, bing if you are optimized correctly.
It is OK to use Code reader in the description and perhaps even the item speciifcs. I think you should try to add a few item specifics also for this item. The more Item specifics you can use the more refined search filters you will show in. It is about getting your item in as broad a range of search results as possible.
You also have to look at the category they are suggesting. You have it correct for this item, but many do not, and if there are more than one suggested categpry, then you should consider paying for 2nd category. I am not saying you should automatically buy it but certainly you should consider it.
These suggestions are what eBay would like you to use for your keywords in the title, item specifics, and also in your description. These suggestions are the path that ebay is directing buyers to so it helps quite a bit to be optimized to these suggestions. By doing these things you will also do much better with external search engines. A lot of traffic can be harvested from google, yahoo, bing if you are optimized correctly.
It is OK to use Code reader in the description and perhaps even the item speciifcs. I think you should try to add a few item specifics also for this item. The more Item specifics you can use the more refined search filters you will show in. It is about getting your item in as broad a range of search results as possible.
Choosing the right foundation for your skin
Finding your match
When choosing a foundation for your skin one should consider the coverage they desire, whether medium to full coverage. Finding a suitable foundation that matches your complexion and giving you flawless looking skin can be tricky to get right. There are countless formulas and finishes on the market from tinted moisturizers to loose/mineral powder, not to mention the different techniques for applying them.
Finding your formula
To find your formula one must be able to determine the product that suits them.
How would you describe your skin?
A. Oily or combination
B. Dry
C. Normal
D. Sensitive
What are you trying to hide?
A. Large pores/acne/dark spots
B. Fine lines
C. Nothing but just to blend minor imperfections
D. Redness
The look you want to achieve
A. Matte
B. Dewy
C. Natural
D. Even
Your result
If you scored......
Mostly A's/Avoid oil
Foundations that contains oil can be bad for oily skin and it can cause your makeup to break down and slide off. An oil free liquid foundation with lightweight silicone that helps with pigments adhere but will not clog pores. A press powder with silica, the solid equivalent of silicone can be used to achieve the finishing touches.
Mostly B's/Go creamy
One can boost the skins hydration by using a rich anti-aging formula that contains moisturizing ingredients like glycerin. BB creams are packed with emollients, anti-aging, antioxidants and sunscreen in one tube, so it's a good choice.
Mostly C's/Lighten up
Being bless with low maintenance skinny one can wear any foundation. Sheer liquids with light-reflecting particles will give a believable finish while a tinted moisturizer that has enough pigment can even out the skin without being noticeable.
Mostly D's/Correct and cover
If you have sensitive skin then mineral makeup is just for you. It contains skin soothers, such as zinc, free of potential irritants, like fragrance and preservatives. To cover broken capillaries, redness, and discoloration a highly pigmented mineral formula is recommended. If loose powder is too messy for you then get a pressed powder.
When choosing a foundation for your skin one should consider the coverage they desire, whether medium to full coverage. Finding a suitable foundation that matches your complexion and giving you flawless looking skin can be tricky to get right. There are countless formulas and finishes on the market from tinted moisturizers to loose/mineral powder, not to mention the different techniques for applying them.
Finding your formula
To find your formula one must be able to determine the product that suits them.
How would you describe your skin?
A. Oily or combination
B. Dry
C. Normal
D. Sensitive
What are you trying to hide?
A. Large pores/acne/dark spots
B. Fine lines
C. Nothing but just to blend minor imperfections
D. Redness
The look you want to achieve
A. Matte
B. Dewy
C. Natural
D. Even
Your result
If you scored......
Mostly A's/Avoid oil
Foundations that contains oil can be bad for oily skin and it can cause your makeup to break down and slide off. An oil free liquid foundation with lightweight silicone that helps with pigments adhere but will not clog pores. A press powder with silica, the solid equivalent of silicone can be used to achieve the finishing touches.
Mostly B's/Go creamy
One can boost the skins hydration by using a rich anti-aging formula that contains moisturizing ingredients like glycerin. BB creams are packed with emollients, anti-aging, antioxidants and sunscreen in one tube, so it's a good choice.
Mostly C's/Lighten up
Being bless with low maintenance skinny one can wear any foundation. Sheer liquids with light-reflecting particles will give a believable finish while a tinted moisturizer that has enough pigment can even out the skin without being noticeable.
Mostly D's/Correct and cover
If you have sensitive skin then mineral makeup is just for you. It contains skin soothers, such as zinc, free of potential irritants, like fragrance and preservatives. To cover broken capillaries, redness, and discoloration a highly pigmented mineral formula is recommended. If loose powder is too messy for you then get a pressed powder.
IIRC from what I've seen posted on the boards the $15 coupon is a one time purchase deal.
Has anyone else noticed an increase in New 1st Time buyers? I have always gotten my fair share of them, but this week seems a bit more than usual. Here is something that has happened to me twice this week.
New buyer contacts me on Tuesday and asks me if I could raise the price on an item that I have priced at 23.88 and could I make it just over 25.00. Sounds kind of crazy, so I asked the first one why they want to pay more, and they said because ebay gave them a 15.00 off coupon for a purchase over 25.00. So I said sure, so I priced it 25.10 and they did buy the item. I guess there final purchase price was 10.10. My end still shows all the correct numbers, and the payment is correct. Yesterday the same thing for a same kind of item, I raise the price to 25.10 and they purchased it last night.
So what I thought some sellers might want to do is if you are priced just below 25.00 then consider raising your price to just over 25.00. example would be 24.95 might be better priced at 25.25.
Does anyone know if these coupon work for just one item or a whole order? If the buyer purchased several items to get to the 25.00 limit would they still be able to use the coupon?
New buyer contacts me on Tuesday and asks me if I could raise the price on an item that I have priced at 23.88 and could I make it just over 25.00. Sounds kind of crazy, so I asked the first one why they want to pay more, and they said because ebay gave them a 15.00 off coupon for a purchase over 25.00. So I said sure, so I priced it 25.10 and they did buy the item. I guess there final purchase price was 10.10. My end still shows all the correct numbers, and the payment is correct. Yesterday the same thing for a same kind of item, I raise the price to 25.10 and they purchased it last night.
So what I thought some sellers might want to do is if you are priced just below 25.00 then consider raising your price to just over 25.00. example would be 24.95 might be better priced at 25.25.
Does anyone know if these coupon work for just one item or a whole order? If the buyer purchased several items to get to the 25.00 limit would they still be able to use the coupon?
Woods used in Electric and Acoustic Guitars
Brought to you by Max's Guitar Store
The body and neck both contribute to the sound, and these components can be of single- or multi-wood construction. Also, woods of the same species cut from different trees (or grown in different regions) will sound slightly different, and have different weights, different densities, and so on. So the sonic variables exist not only between woods, but, in subtler degrees, between different guitars made from the “same” wood—which is part of the magic in searching for your dream guitar amid ten of the same model hanging on the guitar store wall. In this “All About” we’re talking about tonewoods in solidbody and semi-acoustic electrics. The properties of woods used in acoustic guitars will be tackled in another issue.
Body Woods
Alder.
[image]
As with ash, it’s impossible to discuss alder without making reference to Fender, which first used alder prominently in the late ’50s and early ’60s. It’s a medium-weight wood, although quality cuts of alder used for guitar bodies will often weigh less than denser cuts of ash. Alder has a strong, clear, full-bodied sound, with beefy mids and excellent lows. Its highs sizzle slightly, but are rarely harsh, and it offers a decent amount of sustain. Slightly brownish in its natural, dried state, alder’s grain isn’t necessarily unattractive, but it usually isn’t particularly interesting, either. It is typicaly used under opaque finishes, but some examples can look good under darker translucent finishes. Like ash, alder is most often used on its own as a body wood.
Ash.
[image]
Best known as the wood of classic ’50s Fender guitars, ash is most desirable in the form of swamp ash—wood taken from the lower portions of southern-grown wetland trees that have root systems growing below water level. Good swamp ash is both light and resonant, and generally carries a broad grain that looks great under a translucent finish. The swamp-ash sound is twangy, airy, and sweet. It offers firm lows, pleasant highs, a slightly scooped midrange, and good sustain. Ash from the upper portions of the tree has also been used, as has harder northern ash. Both tend to be denser and heavier, and have a brighter, harder sound that might be more useful when cutting, distorted tones are desired. Ash is traditionally used for single-wood, slab-bodied guitars, but has sometimes been employed by more contemporary designers in multi-wood (or laminated) bodies—most commonly with a carved-maple top, or as the top of a semi-hollow or chambered guitar with a back made from a different wood.
Basswood.
Affordable and abundant, basswood is particularly associated with mid-level or budget guitars. But basswood is a good tonewood by any standards, and it has been used by many high-end makers with excellent results. It is a very light and fairly soft wood, and it’s light in color, too, with minimal grain. Solid basswood bodies have a fat, but well-balanced tonality. There’s a muscular midrange, but also a certain softness and breathiness. On a well-made guitar, basswood can yield good dynamics and definition with enough grind to give the sound some oomph.
Korina.
Best known as the tonewood of Gibson’s radical Modernistic Series of the late 1950s—the flashy Flying V and Explorer—as well as more recent guitars that follow these templates, Korina is a warm, resonant, and balanced performer. It also yields great clarity, definition, and sustain. The species is known generically as limba—an African wood related to mahogany, but imported under the trade name Korina. It’s a fairly light hardwood with a fine grain that’s usually enhanced in the finishing process to appear as an attractive array of long, thin streaks. White limba—as used by Gibson and Hamer—has a light appearance in its natural state, and black limba has a more pronounced grain.
Mahogany.
Alongside maple, mahogany is a classic ingredient in both slab and multi-wood (or laminated) bodies, and is a common neck wood, too. It’s also used in single-wood bodies. As for the classics, the Gibson Les Paul Jr., Les Paul Special, and SG were made of solid mahogany (with mahogany necks), and countless makers have used the wood in both solid and semi-solid designs over the years. Harvested in Africa and Central America, mahogany is a fairly dense, medium-to-heavy wood that yields a wide range of guitar-body weights, depending upon stock sources. Used on its own, mahog-any’s characteristic tone is warm and somewhat soft, but well balanced with good grind and bite. There is usually good depth to the sound, with full but not especially tight lows, and appealing if unpronounced highs.
Maple.
Used for both bodies and necks, maple is a dense, hard, and heavy wood, sourced mostly in the Northeast and Northwest United States and Canada. Maple is often used as an ingredient in a multi-wood body, where it is generally partnered with a second, lighter wood. All-maple bodies aren’t unheard of—although the weight is usually off-putting—and, on its own, a maple body produces an extremely bright, precise tone with tight lows. This light-colored wood with a tightly packed grain doesn’t always carry dramatic figuring, but some examples can be spectacular, as most famously seen beneath the sunburst finish on the carved-maple tops of some Gibson Les Pauls from the late 1950s. Maple is also one of the most common ingredients of laminates used for semi-hollow electric-guitar bodies, where it contributes tightness and clarity.
Maple/Mahogany.
[image]
This is the most popular laminated body type of all time. Adding a solid maple top to a solid mahogany back yields a guitar body that exhibits many of the best tonal properties of both woods. The solid maple/mahogany body is characteristically rich, warm, and resonant. You get mahogany’s smooth, appealing lows with good sustain, as well as the extra clarity, definition, and bite added by the dense maple cap.
Poplar.
A “hardwood” by definition, poplar is actually relatively soft when compared with a range of hardwoods. It is now surfacing more and more as a body wood used in affordable, Asian-made electrics, and it displays a rather bland, characterless quality. Although well-balanced sonically, poplar bodies aren’t particularly resonant or sustaining, and they generally don’t seem to enhance any particular frequency range or overtones.
Rosewood.
This highly prized tonewood is seen frequently in fretboards, and in the backs and sides of many quality flat-top acoustics, but rarely in solidbody electrics. One notable exception was the Rosewood Telecaster that Fender produced sporadically between 1969 and 1972 and was played by George Harrison. Rosewood makes for a very heavy and overly bright-sounding guitar—and an expensive one, too—that is typically more of interest for looks and novelty factor than for tone.
Walnut.
Dense and fairly heavy, with sonic characteristics similar to those of mahogany, walnut is occasionally used in electric-guitar bodies. It tends to be warm and full, but usually with a firmer low end, and more overall tightness. Walnut’s rich brown color and often pleasing grain patterns means it looks good under a simple coat of translucent lacquer. Exotics. Woods such as purple heart, wenge, koa, bubinga, and muira piranga are used by custom guitar-makers, but don’t feature highly in mass-production guitars. These are mostly hard, dense woods with distinctive grain patterns. The colors can be appealing in their natural states, and they are usually used as one ingredient of many in a multi-wood body.
Spruce and cedar—the two most common woods for the tops of acoustic guitars—will very rarely come into the picture regarding electric-guitar construction, although makers have occasionally offered semi-hollow electrics with thin spruce tops.
Neck Woods
Mahogany/Ebony.
A popular upmarket pairing, the ebony fretboard contributes to a little more tightness, clarity, and definition, as compared to the mahogany/rosewood neck. A very dense, hard wood, ebony makes for a fast attack from the instrument—all else being equal—and it offers a muscular, controlled bass, and snappy, sizzling highs. With a mahogany back contributing some warmth and openness to the brew, this can be a very appealing pairing. Ebony also wears very well, and it doesn’t divot under years of finger-and-string pressure nearly as easily as rosewood does.
Mahogany/Rosewood.
The second most common guitar-neck wood after maple, mahogany is most often coupled with a solid mahogany or mahogany/maple-topped body. This more porous, open wood doesn’t quite have maple’s hardness, strength, or stability, however, and it isn’t suitable as a fretboard material. Mahogany has a warm, mellow tone with good presence in the lower mids. The mahogany/rosewood pairing contributes to complex highs, thick and creamy lows, and an appealing midrange that isn’t honky or excessively punchy.
Maple.
Whether in the form of a solid, one-piece neck with integral fretboard, or a neck with an added fretboard of a second type of wood (usually rosewood), maple is easily the most common type of neck wood used in solidbody guitars. A one-piece, solid maple neck contributes tightness and cut to a guitar, with an edge of sizzle in the highs, and firm lows. Its high end is usually not as over-pronounced as people might think, although it is a characteristically bright neck-wood choice. Mids tend to have a snappy attack, with a punchy, slightly gnarly edge when the strings are hit hard, but excellent clarity with light to medium picking.
Maple/Pau Ferro.
Something of a cross between ebony and rosewood tone-wise, pau ferro is a fairly hard, dense, tight-grained wood. It offers excellent clarity and definition, but has more complex highs than maple, with chunky lows, muscular lower-mids, and an airy, open midrange.
Maple/Rosewood.
Add a rosewood fretboard, and a maple neck’s tonal character becomes a little warmer and sweeter, with more sparkle in the highs and thicker lows (tending towards looser). Also, the mids tend to have a little more openness. In simple terms, rosewood’s contribution to a maple neck smooths and “furs up” the solid-maple sound. Note also that a player’s choice of an all-maple or maple/rosewood neck might come down to feel (or even appearance) as much as sound.
The body and neck both contribute to the sound, and these components can be of single- or multi-wood construction. Also, woods of the same species cut from different trees (or grown in different regions) will sound slightly different, and have different weights, different densities, and so on. So the sonic variables exist not only between woods, but, in subtler degrees, between different guitars made from the “same” wood—which is part of the magic in searching for your dream guitar amid ten of the same model hanging on the guitar store wall. In this “All About” we’re talking about tonewoods in solidbody and semi-acoustic electrics. The properties of woods used in acoustic guitars will be tackled in another issue.
Body Woods
Alder.
[image]
As with ash, it’s impossible to discuss alder without making reference to Fender, which first used alder prominently in the late ’50s and early ’60s. It’s a medium-weight wood, although quality cuts of alder used for guitar bodies will often weigh less than denser cuts of ash. Alder has a strong, clear, full-bodied sound, with beefy mids and excellent lows. Its highs sizzle slightly, but are rarely harsh, and it offers a decent amount of sustain. Slightly brownish in its natural, dried state, alder’s grain isn’t necessarily unattractive, but it usually isn’t particularly interesting, either. It is typicaly used under opaque finishes, but some examples can look good under darker translucent finishes. Like ash, alder is most often used on its own as a body wood.
Ash.
[image]
Best known as the wood of classic ’50s Fender guitars, ash is most desirable in the form of swamp ash—wood taken from the lower portions of southern-grown wetland trees that have root systems growing below water level. Good swamp ash is both light and resonant, and generally carries a broad grain that looks great under a translucent finish. The swamp-ash sound is twangy, airy, and sweet. It offers firm lows, pleasant highs, a slightly scooped midrange, and good sustain. Ash from the upper portions of the tree has also been used, as has harder northern ash. Both tend to be denser and heavier, and have a brighter, harder sound that might be more useful when cutting, distorted tones are desired. Ash is traditionally used for single-wood, slab-bodied guitars, but has sometimes been employed by more contemporary designers in multi-wood (or laminated) bodies—most commonly with a carved-maple top, or as the top of a semi-hollow or chambered guitar with a back made from a different wood.
Basswood.
Affordable and abundant, basswood is particularly associated with mid-level or budget guitars. But basswood is a good tonewood by any standards, and it has been used by many high-end makers with excellent results. It is a very light and fairly soft wood, and it’s light in color, too, with minimal grain. Solid basswood bodies have a fat, but well-balanced tonality. There’s a muscular midrange, but also a certain softness and breathiness. On a well-made guitar, basswood can yield good dynamics and definition with enough grind to give the sound some oomph.
Korina.
Best known as the tonewood of Gibson’s radical Modernistic Series of the late 1950s—the flashy Flying V and Explorer—as well as more recent guitars that follow these templates, Korina is a warm, resonant, and balanced performer. It also yields great clarity, definition, and sustain. The species is known generically as limba—an African wood related to mahogany, but imported under the trade name Korina. It’s a fairly light hardwood with a fine grain that’s usually enhanced in the finishing process to appear as an attractive array of long, thin streaks. White limba—as used by Gibson and Hamer—has a light appearance in its natural state, and black limba has a more pronounced grain.
Mahogany.
Alongside maple, mahogany is a classic ingredient in both slab and multi-wood (or laminated) bodies, and is a common neck wood, too. It’s also used in single-wood bodies. As for the classics, the Gibson Les Paul Jr., Les Paul Special, and SG were made of solid mahogany (with mahogany necks), and countless makers have used the wood in both solid and semi-solid designs over the years. Harvested in Africa and Central America, mahogany is a fairly dense, medium-to-heavy wood that yields a wide range of guitar-body weights, depending upon stock sources. Used on its own, mahog-any’s characteristic tone is warm and somewhat soft, but well balanced with good grind and bite. There is usually good depth to the sound, with full but not especially tight lows, and appealing if unpronounced highs.
Maple.
Used for both bodies and necks, maple is a dense, hard, and heavy wood, sourced mostly in the Northeast and Northwest United States and Canada. Maple is often used as an ingredient in a multi-wood body, where it is generally partnered with a second, lighter wood. All-maple bodies aren’t unheard of—although the weight is usually off-putting—and, on its own, a maple body produces an extremely bright, precise tone with tight lows. This light-colored wood with a tightly packed grain doesn’t always carry dramatic figuring, but some examples can be spectacular, as most famously seen beneath the sunburst finish on the carved-maple tops of some Gibson Les Pauls from the late 1950s. Maple is also one of the most common ingredients of laminates used for semi-hollow electric-guitar bodies, where it contributes tightness and clarity.
Maple/Mahogany.
[image]
This is the most popular laminated body type of all time. Adding a solid maple top to a solid mahogany back yields a guitar body that exhibits many of the best tonal properties of both woods. The solid maple/mahogany body is characteristically rich, warm, and resonant. You get mahogany’s smooth, appealing lows with good sustain, as well as the extra clarity, definition, and bite added by the dense maple cap.
Poplar.
A “hardwood” by definition, poplar is actually relatively soft when compared with a range of hardwoods. It is now surfacing more and more as a body wood used in affordable, Asian-made electrics, and it displays a rather bland, characterless quality. Although well-balanced sonically, poplar bodies aren’t particularly resonant or sustaining, and they generally don’t seem to enhance any particular frequency range or overtones.
Rosewood.
This highly prized tonewood is seen frequently in fretboards, and in the backs and sides of many quality flat-top acoustics, but rarely in solidbody electrics. One notable exception was the Rosewood Telecaster that Fender produced sporadically between 1969 and 1972 and was played by George Harrison. Rosewood makes for a very heavy and overly bright-sounding guitar—and an expensive one, too—that is typically more of interest for looks and novelty factor than for tone.
Walnut.
Dense and fairly heavy, with sonic characteristics similar to those of mahogany, walnut is occasionally used in electric-guitar bodies. It tends to be warm and full, but usually with a firmer low end, and more overall tightness. Walnut’s rich brown color and often pleasing grain patterns means it looks good under a simple coat of translucent lacquer. Exotics. Woods such as purple heart, wenge, koa, bubinga, and muira piranga are used by custom guitar-makers, but don’t feature highly in mass-production guitars. These are mostly hard, dense woods with distinctive grain patterns. The colors can be appealing in their natural states, and they are usually used as one ingredient of many in a multi-wood body.
Spruce and cedar—the two most common woods for the tops of acoustic guitars—will very rarely come into the picture regarding electric-guitar construction, although makers have occasionally offered semi-hollow electrics with thin spruce tops.
Neck Woods
Mahogany/Ebony.
A popular upmarket pairing, the ebony fretboard contributes to a little more tightness, clarity, and definition, as compared to the mahogany/rosewood neck. A very dense, hard wood, ebony makes for a fast attack from the instrument—all else being equal—and it offers a muscular, controlled bass, and snappy, sizzling highs. With a mahogany back contributing some warmth and openness to the brew, this can be a very appealing pairing. Ebony also wears very well, and it doesn’t divot under years of finger-and-string pressure nearly as easily as rosewood does.
Mahogany/Rosewood.
The second most common guitar-neck wood after maple, mahogany is most often coupled with a solid mahogany or mahogany/maple-topped body. This more porous, open wood doesn’t quite have maple’s hardness, strength, or stability, however, and it isn’t suitable as a fretboard material. Mahogany has a warm, mellow tone with good presence in the lower mids. The mahogany/rosewood pairing contributes to complex highs, thick and creamy lows, and an appealing midrange that isn’t honky or excessively punchy.
Maple.
Whether in the form of a solid, one-piece neck with integral fretboard, or a neck with an added fretboard of a second type of wood (usually rosewood), maple is easily the most common type of neck wood used in solidbody guitars. A one-piece, solid maple neck contributes tightness and cut to a guitar, with an edge of sizzle in the highs, and firm lows. Its high end is usually not as over-pronounced as people might think, although it is a characteristically bright neck-wood choice. Mids tend to have a snappy attack, with a punchy, slightly gnarly edge when the strings are hit hard, but excellent clarity with light to medium picking.
Maple/Pau Ferro.
Something of a cross between ebony and rosewood tone-wise, pau ferro is a fairly hard, dense, tight-grained wood. It offers excellent clarity and definition, but has more complex highs than maple, with chunky lows, muscular lower-mids, and an airy, open midrange.
Maple/Rosewood.
Add a rosewood fretboard, and a maple neck’s tonal character becomes a little warmer and sweeter, with more sparkle in the highs and thicker lows (tending towards looser). Also, the mids tend to have a little more openness. In simple terms, rosewood’s contribution to a maple neck smooths and “furs up” the solid-maple sound. Note also that a player’s choice of an all-maple or maple/rosewood neck might come down to feel (or even appearance) as much as sound.
Their cost and customs fees etc are added upfront to the buyer
On 5/14, a post titled “Ebay items or other web site” appeared on SC. It was about the website weshop.ph which maybe in the Phillipines. When I ran them on Whois, I found New York, Phillipines, & Hanoi. The have weshop.com.net.org.info.biz.&us. They copy your ebay listings, list your ebay name, feedback number, where you are, etc. I ran a test on my cheapest, & most expensive items, on one id:
My Price $6.98 + $18.52 Markup = $25.50 (but listed in PHP, Phillipine pesos) = 265% markup
My Price $69.95 + $53.46 Markup = $123.41 (but listed in PHP, Phillipine pesos) = 42% markup
OK, Can these reshippers do what they are doing on ebay, SURE. Many regular ebay sellers do it too. Pick off some item not seen by others, mislabeled, etc. Relist it for more money. That's what picking is all about. Go for it.
But here's the new wrinkle. Now they just copy your listing. ALL your listings. Your pics, words, commas, periods. Put ALL your listings up for sale on their own site. Marked up to whatever they want. Etsy sellers have been complaining about this for a while now, but those posts dealt mostly with Amazon. Now weshop is also copying listings from Etsy & Zibbet. Plus, they have all my ebay id's & listings on this site. It seems that if they have a single item, they have your whole shop. I tested other sellers posting on this board, & found their entire shops on weshop also. Go to any ebay listing, copy the title, enter it in to the weshop search box, to see if you are there. (you can't just search by ebay seller name). SO WHAT, your exposure is increased enormously. SELL IT, SHIP IT, RIGHT?
Maybe, but what worries me, is that there will be all kinds of these websites pop up, eventually with your items listed on 20 to 40, to who knows how many sites. They have little invested, & it seems they do it mostly with robots. They can easily put a copy of your listing up, then take an order from a customer of theirs. The customer clicks BIN, the order goes to the reshipper, but in just a couple of seconds, before the reshipper confirms the BIN to the buyer, they pick it off ebay, and then confirm the BIN to their customer. If it should happen to be gone, they probably just go back & say “Sorry, it has been sold, please act faster next time”.
Anyway, if they are ligit, & treat their customers right, you may never hear about it. But sooner or later, this will become a scam. Set up the site. Sell some stuff. Then when you get big enough, cheat the buyers, or sellers, or ebay or paypal, or a combination of them, & take off.
When the items get returned, will these sites honor returns? What if they cheat the buyer? I wouldn't care, except that MY NAME is attached to THEIR RESELLING / RESHIPPING business, All the ebay info/links are on there. It is My reputation & My feedback, My Ebay Id, My Etsy Id, My Zibbet Id, & eventually My Own WEBSITE. What if there's a big accident, and the reseller won't handle it, or tells the customer it must have come to him broke?
Say you sent a 100.00 well packed, fragile item to the reshipper. They packed/repacked it poorly. It broke in shipping & their customer returned it to him, maybe even still in your packaging. Maybe something fell on it. Maybe the container door slammed shut on it. They MAY NOW have the time to return it to you, for refund/snad/etc. With returns on Ebay at 90 days during the holidays, & paypal at 180 days, these could easily be returned to us, without any obvious proof that they were shipped through a reseller. Imagine how many of those fights there will be with ebay. (plus GSP may become mandatory).
“If you can't afford to lose it, & pay for the privilege to do so, don't list it here” - is good advice. I can't afford to lose my best profit, $75.00 - $200.00 items. I have a lot of that kind of vintage stuff, most of which I list elsewhere. I'm thinking more & more of my stuff is going back to the B&M. If Ebay & the other sites can't help here, I'm just gonna remove everything over $20.00. I can afford the $20.00 stuff, assuming it's only a few every day. :smileylol: Will Ebay care? Why would they? Somebody else is re-listing all the ebay listings. No work for ebay. Bigger audience. Same (actually more) final value fees.
My Price $6.98 + $18.52 Markup = $25.50 (but listed in PHP, Phillipine pesos) = 265% markup
My Price $69.95 + $53.46 Markup = $123.41 (but listed in PHP, Phillipine pesos) = 42% markup
OK, Can these reshippers do what they are doing on ebay, SURE. Many regular ebay sellers do it too. Pick off some item not seen by others, mislabeled, etc. Relist it for more money. That's what picking is all about. Go for it.
But here's the new wrinkle. Now they just copy your listing. ALL your listings. Your pics, words, commas, periods. Put ALL your listings up for sale on their own site. Marked up to whatever they want. Etsy sellers have been complaining about this for a while now, but those posts dealt mostly with Amazon. Now weshop is also copying listings from Etsy & Zibbet. Plus, they have all my ebay id's & listings on this site. It seems that if they have a single item, they have your whole shop. I tested other sellers posting on this board, & found their entire shops on weshop also. Go to any ebay listing, copy the title, enter it in to the weshop search box, to see if you are there. (you can't just search by ebay seller name). SO WHAT, your exposure is increased enormously. SELL IT, SHIP IT, RIGHT?
Maybe, but what worries me, is that there will be all kinds of these websites pop up, eventually with your items listed on 20 to 40, to who knows how many sites. They have little invested, & it seems they do it mostly with robots. They can easily put a copy of your listing up, then take an order from a customer of theirs. The customer clicks BIN, the order goes to the reshipper, but in just a couple of seconds, before the reshipper confirms the BIN to the buyer, they pick it off ebay, and then confirm the BIN to their customer. If it should happen to be gone, they probably just go back & say “Sorry, it has been sold, please act faster next time”.
Anyway, if they are ligit, & treat their customers right, you may never hear about it. But sooner or later, this will become a scam. Set up the site. Sell some stuff. Then when you get big enough, cheat the buyers, or sellers, or ebay or paypal, or a combination of them, & take off.
When the items get returned, will these sites honor returns? What if they cheat the buyer? I wouldn't care, except that MY NAME is attached to THEIR RESELLING / RESHIPPING business, All the ebay info/links are on there. It is My reputation & My feedback, My Ebay Id, My Etsy Id, My Zibbet Id, & eventually My Own WEBSITE. What if there's a big accident, and the reseller won't handle it, or tells the customer it must have come to him broke?
Say you sent a 100.00 well packed, fragile item to the reshipper. They packed/repacked it poorly. It broke in shipping & their customer returned it to him, maybe even still in your packaging. Maybe something fell on it. Maybe the container door slammed shut on it. They MAY NOW have the time to return it to you, for refund/snad/etc. With returns on Ebay at 90 days during the holidays, & paypal at 180 days, these could easily be returned to us, without any obvious proof that they were shipped through a reseller. Imagine how many of those fights there will be with ebay. (plus GSP may become mandatory).
“If you can't afford to lose it, & pay for the privilege to do so, don't list it here” - is good advice. I can't afford to lose my best profit, $75.00 - $200.00 items. I have a lot of that kind of vintage stuff, most of which I list elsewhere. I'm thinking more & more of my stuff is going back to the B&M. If Ebay & the other sites can't help here, I'm just gonna remove everything over $20.00. I can afford the $20.00 stuff, assuming it's only a few every day. :smileylol: Will Ebay care? Why would they? Somebody else is re-listing all the ebay listings. No work for ebay. Bigger audience. Same (actually more) final value fees.
I get a message from him complaining about damages to the items
I have a buyer that purchased something back in April and was delivered back on April 10th (he paid for parcel and I upgraded him to priority free of charge). I hadn't heard anything from him so I just assumed everything was fine.
Fast forward to today, I get a message from him complaining about damages to the items. It's been over a month since it was delivered. I told him I'm happy to provide a full refund upon return or we can try to file a claim (since it had the free priority insurance on it) but I wasn't sure with how long ago it was delivered if a claim would even be okay to do.
Is this the correct recourse? I know there's like, a million questions/issues going on with the new defect system. I don't have a lot of defects so if I need to have the items returned, it's not TOO big of a thing but I just find it weird it's taken him over a month to look these things over.That is about the best you can do so far.
But with the amount of time that has passed since it was delivered, you might want to ask the buyer what country they are in and did they use a reshipper. Reshippers are notorious for repacking items and they can get damaged that way. On the plus side for you, the buyer loses buyer protection when the items are shipped out of the country. Did you ship to Kentucky, you might be in ebay's Global Shipping Program and not know it.
And why didn't you just hop in the TARDIS and deliver it yourself?
Fast forward to today, I get a message from him complaining about damages to the items. It's been over a month since it was delivered. I told him I'm happy to provide a full refund upon return or we can try to file a claim (since it had the free priority insurance on it) but I wasn't sure with how long ago it was delivered if a claim would even be okay to do.
Is this the correct recourse? I know there's like, a million questions/issues going on with the new defect system. I don't have a lot of defects so if I need to have the items returned, it's not TOO big of a thing but I just find it weird it's taken him over a month to look these things over.That is about the best you can do so far.
But with the amount of time that has passed since it was delivered, you might want to ask the buyer what country they are in and did they use a reshipper. Reshippers are notorious for repacking items and they can get damaged that way. On the plus side for you, the buyer loses buyer protection when the items are shipped out of the country. Did you ship to Kentucky, you might be in ebay's Global Shipping Program and not know it.
And why didn't you just hop in the TARDIS and deliver it yourself?
Freitag, 16. Mai 2014
Making sure there is no noise when shaken is the key
I've noticed that some sellers are suffering from weak packing and shipping and it's effecting their DSR's. Let's see if I can help.
I used to have a stained glass studio and learned how to ship fragile items. The more vunerable the item, the better you have to do.
First, and most important, pack so when you are done and shake the package, you hear NOTHING. Total silence. Styrofoam is ideal for this. (did I spell that right?)
Next, if it's something like glass, pack in a box and then set that package inside another bigger box and again, pack until you hear silence. Believe me, it'll get there fine and you'll get positive comments about it. Remember that things like glass doorknobs for instance, might seem tough as rocks but in the mail system they can roll and knock against each other and arrive all chipped up, so wrap them separately and then do the packing I discribed.
I used to have a stained glass studio and learned how to ship fragile items. The more vunerable the item, the better you have to do.
First, and most important, pack so when you are done and shake the package, you hear NOTHING. Total silence. Styrofoam is ideal for this. (did I spell that right?)
Next, if it's something like glass, pack in a box and then set that package inside another bigger box and again, pack until you hear silence. Believe me, it'll get there fine and you'll get positive comments about it. Remember that things like glass doorknobs for instance, might seem tough as rocks but in the mail system they can roll and knock against each other and arrive all chipped up, so wrap them separately and then do the packing I discribed.
5 Simple Steps to Becoming More Efficient in Life
We all go about every day doing things the way we know how. It becomes natural to us. After all, this is how we have always been doing it. However, the way we know how to do things is not always the best or most efficient way to do something. While it may get the job done and you might even achieve some great results, you may lose out on your most valuable asset: TIME. If time were not a limited and invaluable asset to us, perhaps efficiency would not matter much. This guide will give you 5 simple steps you can take today to achieve more efficiency in your life.
1. Have a Plan
Have a plan for everything in life you are trying to achieve. Set a concrete goal for any and everything you are trying to achieve. Then work backwards to reach that goal. For example, if you want to create a good career plan for yourself, begin with the question of how you plan to live after retirement. Then figure what type of career choice suits your personal tastes. Next, ask yourself what kind of education you need to land a job in the career of your choice. Next, figure out what you need to do to get those degrees, and so on. Many smaller plans may come along the way, but do not get so consumed by them that you forget your main plan. Those other things may simply be a means to an end (your goal!). Always keep the forest in mind, as you focus on the trees. And remember, even a bad plan is better than no plan.
2. Put Yourself Out There
Never be afraid to put yourself out there and let everyone know what you are up to. Whether it be a new organization you just joined or a business you just started, always put your life out there to the public to see. Expose yourself to any situations where you get a chance to share your thoughts, ideas, or actions. In today's world of social media, it is very easy to share with others what you are doing with your life. Any new idea you might have, pitch it to your social groups. They might have some valuable information you can use to your advantage. But more importantly, you will build new relationships and friends simply from marketing yourself and your ideas to your peers.
3. Reach Out to Others
Everyone likes to believe he or she can do it all. While some of us might get pretty darn close, we must admit, we cannot do it all on our own. Humans are social creatures and we depend on each other for survival. Whenever you get stuck, do not despair. You have several tools at your fingertips (literally!). First, try Google. If you are having an issue with something, chances are someone else out there has already dealt with the same issue before. If such is the case, then probably someone has written about some type of solution to the problem. Search for the solutions others have to share. If you are trying to get something done but are simply unable to do it on your own, don't give up! Reach out to others. You will be surprised by how many people can help you and provide valuable insight if you simply ask them. A great leader is never the one who can do it all on his own. He is never the smartest one in the group either. He simply finds others who can help him and surrounds himself with those people. So, never hesitate to ask for help if you need it!
4. Discover Your Passion
We all have heard the saying "If you love what you do, you will never work a day in your life." While that saying is very much true, discovering what it is that you are good at and passionate about may not be so easy sometimes. There are literally thousands of things out in the world right now as you read this article that you might find enjoyable to do. So, how can you find out about these things? You might think you know what you like to do, but chances are you don't know all of it. First, start with the things you do know that you like to do. Find out how you can get involved with doing whatever it is that you enjoy doing and the rent will get paid and the bread will come to the table. It always has and always will. To find out more things that you might enjoy doing, simply expose yourself to new things all the time. If there is something you have always wanted to try but were too shy, try it next time. You have nothing to lose. Always exposing yourself to new experiences is one of the most efficient way of discovering your passions and interests. Try a new hobby, talk to that stranger, take that trip out of town, do that thing that you never saw yourself doing. Who knows, may be in the process, you may end up discovering a new interest that you fall in love with. If you are passionate about something, nothing can stop you. Passion + Vision = Action!
5. Live by the Moment
People often say "Life is what happens while you are busy making other plans." It has some truth to it. We get so busy with our plans for the future that we forget to enjoy the present. Instead of waking up every Monday and dreading the week ahead of you, enjoy the moments! Be positive anytime you can and things will begin to go right. Suddenly, people will like you more. If you are doing something that you absolutely hate, then stop doing it! Find something that you DO enjoy instead. If you want your future to change, you have to begin by changing what you are doing now. And that begins with enjoying the things that you do now. Remember, time is your most valuable asset and he is never on your side. So, use your moments wisely. Life is simply too short to be spent being unhappy. Just look around you, chances are, you will find a 100 things to smile about. The key to happiness, success, efficiency, or whatever it is that you are pursuing is to live each day with positiveness and a caring attitude. Do not worry so much about looking for the good times ahead. The good times are happening now! All you have to do, is enjoy them. Strive to leave the world a better place than you found it, but have a really good time doing while doing it.
1. Have a Plan
Have a plan for everything in life you are trying to achieve. Set a concrete goal for any and everything you are trying to achieve. Then work backwards to reach that goal. For example, if you want to create a good career plan for yourself, begin with the question of how you plan to live after retirement. Then figure what type of career choice suits your personal tastes. Next, ask yourself what kind of education you need to land a job in the career of your choice. Next, figure out what you need to do to get those degrees, and so on. Many smaller plans may come along the way, but do not get so consumed by them that you forget your main plan. Those other things may simply be a means to an end (your goal!). Always keep the forest in mind, as you focus on the trees. And remember, even a bad plan is better than no plan.
2. Put Yourself Out There
Never be afraid to put yourself out there and let everyone know what you are up to. Whether it be a new organization you just joined or a business you just started, always put your life out there to the public to see. Expose yourself to any situations where you get a chance to share your thoughts, ideas, or actions. In today's world of social media, it is very easy to share with others what you are doing with your life. Any new idea you might have, pitch it to your social groups. They might have some valuable information you can use to your advantage. But more importantly, you will build new relationships and friends simply from marketing yourself and your ideas to your peers.
3. Reach Out to Others
Everyone likes to believe he or she can do it all. While some of us might get pretty darn close, we must admit, we cannot do it all on our own. Humans are social creatures and we depend on each other for survival. Whenever you get stuck, do not despair. You have several tools at your fingertips (literally!). First, try Google. If you are having an issue with something, chances are someone else out there has already dealt with the same issue before. If such is the case, then probably someone has written about some type of solution to the problem. Search for the solutions others have to share. If you are trying to get something done but are simply unable to do it on your own, don't give up! Reach out to others. You will be surprised by how many people can help you and provide valuable insight if you simply ask them. A great leader is never the one who can do it all on his own. He is never the smartest one in the group either. He simply finds others who can help him and surrounds himself with those people. So, never hesitate to ask for help if you need it!
4. Discover Your Passion
We all have heard the saying "If you love what you do, you will never work a day in your life." While that saying is very much true, discovering what it is that you are good at and passionate about may not be so easy sometimes. There are literally thousands of things out in the world right now as you read this article that you might find enjoyable to do. So, how can you find out about these things? You might think you know what you like to do, but chances are you don't know all of it. First, start with the things you do know that you like to do. Find out how you can get involved with doing whatever it is that you enjoy doing and the rent will get paid and the bread will come to the table. It always has and always will. To find out more things that you might enjoy doing, simply expose yourself to new things all the time. If there is something you have always wanted to try but were too shy, try it next time. You have nothing to lose. Always exposing yourself to new experiences is one of the most efficient way of discovering your passions and interests. Try a new hobby, talk to that stranger, take that trip out of town, do that thing that you never saw yourself doing. Who knows, may be in the process, you may end up discovering a new interest that you fall in love with. If you are passionate about something, nothing can stop you. Passion + Vision = Action!
5. Live by the Moment
People often say "Life is what happens while you are busy making other plans." It has some truth to it. We get so busy with our plans for the future that we forget to enjoy the present. Instead of waking up every Monday and dreading the week ahead of you, enjoy the moments! Be positive anytime you can and things will begin to go right. Suddenly, people will like you more. If you are doing something that you absolutely hate, then stop doing it! Find something that you DO enjoy instead. If you want your future to change, you have to begin by changing what you are doing now. And that begins with enjoying the things that you do now. Remember, time is your most valuable asset and he is never on your side. So, use your moments wisely. Life is simply too short to be spent being unhappy. Just look around you, chances are, you will find a 100 things to smile about. The key to happiness, success, efficiency, or whatever it is that you are pursuing is to live each day with positiveness and a caring attitude. Do not worry so much about looking for the good times ahead. The good times are happening now! All you have to do, is enjoy them. Strive to leave the world a better place than you found it, but have a really good time doing while doing it.
It's like the article has been scrubbed
I can't find it anywhere, even though it was easy to find before.
I can't even find it in the archives of the major business magazines.
What I remember is that one shareholder seller said he had benefited from the new system (you have to wonder if it was a "favored" seller) and another voiced the opposite point of view.
There was info on re-appointments to the board and Donahoe wanted to make it clear to the stockholders that PayPal is dependent on eBay (with the implication that they shouldn't be separated) and I believe he said half of PayPal's revenue is coming from the marketplace.
But, take all that with a grain of salt. I glanced at the article for only seconds, with the intention of reading it more thoroughly later, and may not remember it accurately and I'm perplexed that there aren't a zillion copies of it on the Web (or even one).
My No Chip Manicure Guide
1 ~ Remove Old Polish
Start by removing your previous nail polish using an acetone nail polish remover. I like using Onyx Professional. This is very drying on your skin, but it is the easiest way to remove polish, especially glitter.
Cuti-Groom by Orly
2 ~ Moisturize Cuticles and Hands
Use a cuticle oil to moisturize cuticles and nail beds. I prefer Cuti-Groom by Orly (not on eBay) or Essie's Apricot Cuticle Oil. Place the oil on each finger and rub into cuticle, nail, and surrounding skin. I also like to take a hand cream and massage it into my skin, nails, and cuticles for some extra moisture!
L to R: Rubber Cuticle Pusher, Cuticle Cutter
3 ~ Trim Cuticles
Use a rubber pusher to push back cuticle. Occasionally I will cut them with a cuticle cutter after pushing them back. You can soak your hands in warm water to soften the cuticles before cutting them, but if you do this, you must wait enough time before painting your nails (see tip below). I don’t cut my cuticles all of the time because if there isn’t much to cut you risk cutting good skin which can lead to an infection. A good option for this step is to use the Sally Hansen Push-n-Trim which includes a rubber pusher and a cuticle trimmer all in one!
4 ~ Remove Oil
After you let the oil sit for however long you'd like, you can either wash your hands with soap and water, or just skip to the next step.
L to R: Nail File, Multi-Sided Nail Buffer
5 ~ Clipping, Filing, Buffing, Smoothing
If necessary, clip your nails to your desired length using nail clippers.
Take a multi-sided buffer, and file, buff, and smooth your nails with each side in the order specified. Make sure you focus on the part of your nail that has grown out since the last time you did this. You don’t want to go near the tip of your nail, nor do you want to repeat this process on the part of your nail you covered during your last manicure because this will weaken the nail. Basically, you are getting rid of ridges and creating texture on your nail that will help the polish adhere.
Then, take a regular nail file and shape the tips of your nails. I prefer square nails based on the look, however, rounded nails are stronger and less prone to breaking. Also, make sure you file in one direction; going back and forth makes your nails more likely to break.
6 ~ Wash Hands
The next thing you should do is wash your hands with soap and water to make sure you remove all of the dust from filing.
Isopropyl (Rubbing) Alcohol
7 ~ Remove Oil and Bacteria
This step is optional, but I like to use a cotton ball to rub some isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) on each nail. This gets rid of any oils and bacteria and helps your polish last longer by preventing chipping.
L to R: Sally Hansen Hard as Nails, Sally Hansen Hard as Wraps
8 ~ Base Coat
It is important to start with a base coat. It prolongs your manicure and prevents the polish from staining your nails when you use darker colors. My favorite base coat is Sally Hansen’s Hard As Nails, and if I am looking for an even stronger nail I will use Sally Hansen’s Hard as Nails followed by Sally Hansen’s Hard as Wraps. I don’t like using Hard as Wraps directly on my nail because I experienced some peeling.
Quick-Dry Drops by Orly
9 ~ Drying
Make sure your base coat dries completely before proceeding. To hasten the process you can use Orly’s Quick-Dry Drops (not on eBay) or a spray. I like Onyx Professional's 3-2-1 Dry! Salon Nail Dryer!
L to R: Essie, Orly, Wet 'n Wild Megalast Salon Nail Polish, L'Oreal, Rimmel Lasting Finish Pro, OPI, CoverGirl Glosstini
10 ~ Color
If you were active or waited an extended period of time and were busy with your hands after applying the base coat, I would recommend using isopropyl alcohol to again remove any oil or bacteria so you have a fresh, clan surface on which to proceed.
After your base coat, you need to select your favorite polish. Some of my favorites are Rimmel's Lasting Finish Pro, (I love the unique brush shape, the staying power, and colors), Essie, OPI, Orly, CoverGirl Glosstini’s, L'Oreal, and Wet 'n Wild Megalast Salon Nail Polish. I recommend doing 2-3 coats, and make sure you not only cover your nail, but you go across the tip with the brush to help prevent chipping! Waiting for the coats to dry in between helps to prevent smudging, so again you can use Orly’s Quick-Dry Drops or the Onyx spray.
11 ~ Designs
At this point you can do a design using Sally Hansen Nail Art Pens, nail art brushes, dotting pens, gems (there is a huge variety to choose from including studs, rhinestones, and more), stamping, etc. BE CREATIVE!
Avon Nailwear Pro
12 ~ Top Coat
After your color coats or the design, if desired, have dried you must seal your manicure with a base coat. My favorite is Avon Nailwear Pro, but another good option is Sally Hansen’s No Chip Acrylic Top Coat. You can even use a matte base coat such as OPI Matte Top Coat for a matte finish!
Remember to use isopropyl alcohol if you were busy and need to clean your nails before applying the top coat.
To help your manicure last longer here are a few tips:
*Do not soak hands before applying polish because your nail expands when the water is absorbed and if you polish at this time you are at risk for chipping when your nail contracts to its natural shape
*Avoid washing your hands with hot water for the first 12 hours because although your polish may feel hard it has not fully set yet
*Apply a clear coat every other day
*For added shine, and to spruce up your manicure, massage hand cream into your hands and nails
*Oil your nails and cuticles daily because when your nail bed dries out you get chipping and peeling
*Avoid hand sanitizer as this dries out the nail bed
*Use gloves when washing dishes
*If you get some chips but don't have time for a complete manicure, fill in the chips with the colored polish (you may have to go over it more than once), and then apply a coat of glitter over the whole nail to hide the fix
Start by removing your previous nail polish using an acetone nail polish remover. I like using Onyx Professional. This is very drying on your skin, but it is the easiest way to remove polish, especially glitter.
Cuti-Groom by Orly
2 ~ Moisturize Cuticles and Hands
Use a cuticle oil to moisturize cuticles and nail beds. I prefer Cuti-Groom by Orly (not on eBay) or Essie's Apricot Cuticle Oil. Place the oil on each finger and rub into cuticle, nail, and surrounding skin. I also like to take a hand cream and massage it into my skin, nails, and cuticles for some extra moisture!
L to R: Rubber Cuticle Pusher, Cuticle Cutter
3 ~ Trim Cuticles
Use a rubber pusher to push back cuticle. Occasionally I will cut them with a cuticle cutter after pushing them back. You can soak your hands in warm water to soften the cuticles before cutting them, but if you do this, you must wait enough time before painting your nails (see tip below). I don’t cut my cuticles all of the time because if there isn’t much to cut you risk cutting good skin which can lead to an infection. A good option for this step is to use the Sally Hansen Push-n-Trim which includes a rubber pusher and a cuticle trimmer all in one!
4 ~ Remove Oil
After you let the oil sit for however long you'd like, you can either wash your hands with soap and water, or just skip to the next step.
L to R: Nail File, Multi-Sided Nail Buffer
5 ~ Clipping, Filing, Buffing, Smoothing
If necessary, clip your nails to your desired length using nail clippers.
Take a multi-sided buffer, and file, buff, and smooth your nails with each side in the order specified. Make sure you focus on the part of your nail that has grown out since the last time you did this. You don’t want to go near the tip of your nail, nor do you want to repeat this process on the part of your nail you covered during your last manicure because this will weaken the nail. Basically, you are getting rid of ridges and creating texture on your nail that will help the polish adhere.
Then, take a regular nail file and shape the tips of your nails. I prefer square nails based on the look, however, rounded nails are stronger and less prone to breaking. Also, make sure you file in one direction; going back and forth makes your nails more likely to break.
6 ~ Wash Hands
The next thing you should do is wash your hands with soap and water to make sure you remove all of the dust from filing.
Isopropyl (Rubbing) Alcohol
7 ~ Remove Oil and Bacteria
This step is optional, but I like to use a cotton ball to rub some isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) on each nail. This gets rid of any oils and bacteria and helps your polish last longer by preventing chipping.
L to R: Sally Hansen Hard as Nails, Sally Hansen Hard as Wraps
8 ~ Base Coat
It is important to start with a base coat. It prolongs your manicure and prevents the polish from staining your nails when you use darker colors. My favorite base coat is Sally Hansen’s Hard As Nails, and if I am looking for an even stronger nail I will use Sally Hansen’s Hard as Nails followed by Sally Hansen’s Hard as Wraps. I don’t like using Hard as Wraps directly on my nail because I experienced some peeling.
Quick-Dry Drops by Orly
9 ~ Drying
Make sure your base coat dries completely before proceeding. To hasten the process you can use Orly’s Quick-Dry Drops (not on eBay) or a spray. I like Onyx Professional's 3-2-1 Dry! Salon Nail Dryer!
L to R: Essie, Orly, Wet 'n Wild Megalast Salon Nail Polish, L'Oreal, Rimmel Lasting Finish Pro, OPI, CoverGirl Glosstini
10 ~ Color
If you were active or waited an extended period of time and were busy with your hands after applying the base coat, I would recommend using isopropyl alcohol to again remove any oil or bacteria so you have a fresh, clan surface on which to proceed.
After your base coat, you need to select your favorite polish. Some of my favorites are Rimmel's Lasting Finish Pro, (I love the unique brush shape, the staying power, and colors), Essie, OPI, Orly, CoverGirl Glosstini’s, L'Oreal, and Wet 'n Wild Megalast Salon Nail Polish. I recommend doing 2-3 coats, and make sure you not only cover your nail, but you go across the tip with the brush to help prevent chipping! Waiting for the coats to dry in between helps to prevent smudging, so again you can use Orly’s Quick-Dry Drops or the Onyx spray.
11 ~ Designs
At this point you can do a design using Sally Hansen Nail Art Pens, nail art brushes, dotting pens, gems (there is a huge variety to choose from including studs, rhinestones, and more), stamping, etc. BE CREATIVE!
Avon Nailwear Pro
12 ~ Top Coat
After your color coats or the design, if desired, have dried you must seal your manicure with a base coat. My favorite is Avon Nailwear Pro, but another good option is Sally Hansen’s No Chip Acrylic Top Coat. You can even use a matte base coat such as OPI Matte Top Coat for a matte finish!
Remember to use isopropyl alcohol if you were busy and need to clean your nails before applying the top coat.
To help your manicure last longer here are a few tips:
*Do not soak hands before applying polish because your nail expands when the water is absorbed and if you polish at this time you are at risk for chipping when your nail contracts to its natural shape
*Avoid washing your hands with hot water for the first 12 hours because although your polish may feel hard it has not fully set yet
*Apply a clear coat every other day
*For added shine, and to spruce up your manicure, massage hand cream into your hands and nails
*Oil your nails and cuticles daily because when your nail bed dries out you get chipping and peeling
*Avoid hand sanitizer as this dries out the nail bed
*Use gloves when washing dishes
*If you get some chips but don't have time for a complete manicure, fill in the chips with the colored polish (you may have to go over it more than once), and then apply a coat of glitter over the whole nail to hide the fix
Ok here it is I have a buyer that is buying challenged
You can write him and let him know you will refund him, since he paid and let him know you are sending a Transaction Cancellation for him to 'accept', which has no bearing on him and just so you can get your FVFs refunded that ebay has already charged you..
Make sure you select the 'Buyer Changed Mind' option in the TC, you send.
Invite him to bid, win, BIN the one he really wants and as soon as he pays, ship it.......Just my 2 cents.
Summertime One Brand Look: Eyes Lips Face
Eyes Lips Face is a wonderful, inexpensive makeup brand that offers a wide variety of beauty products and tools.
The following is a fun, summertime look you can pull off using all Eyes Lips Face products.
I’ve picked out some shades for a summertime glow, but some colors are left to your descretion such as the concealer, foundation, etc.
A list of tools you need to complete this look is found at the end of the guide.
1 ~ Moisturizer
It is important to keep you skin moisturized in the summer months, especially because your skin can dry out from the sun, chlorine in the pool, and other environmental elements. I recommend using the Studio Daily Moisture Stick before applying your makeup to keep your face fresh!
e.l.f. Mineral Face Primer
2 ~ Primer
Next, apply the Mineral Infused Face Primer to your entire face. I suggest putting it on your finger tips, patting it into the skin, and then smoothing it out. I find this method helps to fill in pores for a flawless finish!
3 ~ Foundation
Since this is a summer look, I wanted to use a lightweight foundation with SPF coverage for the sunny summer days! I like the Studio Tinted Moisturizer with SPF 20. This has very light coverage, but it does even out the skin tone. (Please note that you can do concealer and foundation in whichever order you prefer. I know some people like to do concealer first, but others like to do foundation first in order to determine the real trouble areas.)
4 ~ Concealer
Use the Essential Tone Correcting Concealer to cover blemishes and under eye circles. This is great at covering any red spots or dark circles to neutralize your skin tone before proceeding.
5 ~ Blush
For a fun, pink glow use the Studio Blush in Pink Passion. Apply this to the apples of your cheek and extend to your hair line. It is very pigmented, so a little goes a long way!
e.l.f. Studio Contouring Blush and Bronzing Duo in St. Lucia
6 ~ Bronzer
The Studio Contouring Blush and Bronzing Duo in St. Lucia can be used for contouring, but this for this look, I suggest using just the bronzer to warm up your skin tone as if you have been tanning! You are going to apply this across your forehead, in the hollows of your cheek (just below your cheek bone), along your jawline, and down your neck. These are the areas you apply bronzer for contouring, but we are going to apply it softly instead of creating defined lines.
Note: You can find the hollows your check by feeling for the indentation below your cheekbone or by placing a brush on your face extending from the top of your ear to the outer corner of your lip. If you then roll the brush up and down you should feel where your cheek indents, and this is where you apply bronzer.
e.l.f. All Over Color Stick in Persimmon
7 ~ Highlighter
Everyone wants a summertime glow, so I recommend using the All Over Color Stick in Persimmon. You can place this down the center of your nose and above each cheekbone. You can also place this right under your eyebrow as an extra highlight. I prefer using my finger to apply this to all of the areas of my face because I think it helps to warm up and soften the product so it goes on smoothly.
8 ~ Eyelid Primer
Use the Eyelid Primer in Sheer to prevent your eyeshadow from creasing and to get a longer-lasting look! Just dab a little on your eyelid with the wand and use your fingertip to even it out. This also helps to enhance the colors of your shadow!
9 ~ Eye Shadow
Use the eye shadow brush to apply the lighter color from the Essential Eyelid Duo in Berry Mix to your entire eyelid. Next, use the defining eye brush to apply the darker shadow from the duo to the outer v and extend into the crease. Twirl your blending brush in circular motions to make a seamless transition between the two colors. Finally, use your finger to apply a little of the All Over Color Stick to the inner corner of your eyes.
Please note that there is a powder version and a cream version of the Berry Mix eyeshadow duo. For this look, you can use either product, however, you may need to use your finger or different brushes than the ones suggested here.
e.l.f. Essential Liquid Eyeliner in Black
10 ~ Eyeliner
On your top lash line apply the Essential Liquid Eyeliner in Black, and for a softer look, apply the lighter shadow from the Berry Mix duo on your lower lash line.
11 ~ Mascara
First begin by curling your eyelashes.
I want a natural look in the summer, which is why I recommend using the Studio Lengthening & Volumizing Mascara. I find that this adds just enough length and volume without looking very dramatic.
e.l.f. Luscious Liquid Lipstick in Pink Lemonade
12 ~ Lipstick/Lip Gloss
When I think of summer, I am not using bold, heavy lipsticks, I am using either a lipgloss or a more subtle lipstick because it is quick and easy to apply on the go. I want something bright and fun which is why I suggest Luscious Liquid Lipstick in Pink Lemonade for this look. I would actually consider this more of a lip gloss than a lipstick because it is more sheer than lipstick, and it has the consistency of a gloss.
e.l.f. Mechanical Eyelash Curler
Tools
These are the tools used to complete the look outlined above, and I have specified how you use each one!
* Mechanical Eyelash Curler - to curl eyelashes
* Essential Eye Shadow Brush - use this to pack color all over your eyelid
* Essential Defining Eye Brush - use this to create an outer v and drag the darker shadow into the crease
* Essential Blending Eye Brush - use this to blend your shadows together to soften the transition; the best method is to swirl in circular motions over your eyelid
* Studio Small Angled Brush - use this to apply the eyeshadow to your lower lash line like an eyeliner
* Studio Complexion Brush - use this to apply your bronzer
* Studio Blush Brush - use this to apply your blush
The following is a fun, summertime look you can pull off using all Eyes Lips Face products.
I’ve picked out some shades for a summertime glow, but some colors are left to your descretion such as the concealer, foundation, etc.
A list of tools you need to complete this look is found at the end of the guide.
1 ~ Moisturizer
It is important to keep you skin moisturized in the summer months, especially because your skin can dry out from the sun, chlorine in the pool, and other environmental elements. I recommend using the Studio Daily Moisture Stick before applying your makeup to keep your face fresh!
e.l.f. Mineral Face Primer
2 ~ Primer
Next, apply the Mineral Infused Face Primer to your entire face. I suggest putting it on your finger tips, patting it into the skin, and then smoothing it out. I find this method helps to fill in pores for a flawless finish!
3 ~ Foundation
Since this is a summer look, I wanted to use a lightweight foundation with SPF coverage for the sunny summer days! I like the Studio Tinted Moisturizer with SPF 20. This has very light coverage, but it does even out the skin tone. (Please note that you can do concealer and foundation in whichever order you prefer. I know some people like to do concealer first, but others like to do foundation first in order to determine the real trouble areas.)
4 ~ Concealer
Use the Essential Tone Correcting Concealer to cover blemishes and under eye circles. This is great at covering any red spots or dark circles to neutralize your skin tone before proceeding.
5 ~ Blush
For a fun, pink glow use the Studio Blush in Pink Passion. Apply this to the apples of your cheek and extend to your hair line. It is very pigmented, so a little goes a long way!
e.l.f. Studio Contouring Blush and Bronzing Duo in St. Lucia
6 ~ Bronzer
The Studio Contouring Blush and Bronzing Duo in St. Lucia can be used for contouring, but this for this look, I suggest using just the bronzer to warm up your skin tone as if you have been tanning! You are going to apply this across your forehead, in the hollows of your cheek (just below your cheek bone), along your jawline, and down your neck. These are the areas you apply bronzer for contouring, but we are going to apply it softly instead of creating defined lines.
Note: You can find the hollows your check by feeling for the indentation below your cheekbone or by placing a brush on your face extending from the top of your ear to the outer corner of your lip. If you then roll the brush up and down you should feel where your cheek indents, and this is where you apply bronzer.
e.l.f. All Over Color Stick in Persimmon
7 ~ Highlighter
Everyone wants a summertime glow, so I recommend using the All Over Color Stick in Persimmon. You can place this down the center of your nose and above each cheekbone. You can also place this right under your eyebrow as an extra highlight. I prefer using my finger to apply this to all of the areas of my face because I think it helps to warm up and soften the product so it goes on smoothly.
8 ~ Eyelid Primer
Use the Eyelid Primer in Sheer to prevent your eyeshadow from creasing and to get a longer-lasting look! Just dab a little on your eyelid with the wand and use your fingertip to even it out. This also helps to enhance the colors of your shadow!
9 ~ Eye Shadow
Use the eye shadow brush to apply the lighter color from the Essential Eyelid Duo in Berry Mix to your entire eyelid. Next, use the defining eye brush to apply the darker shadow from the duo to the outer v and extend into the crease. Twirl your blending brush in circular motions to make a seamless transition between the two colors. Finally, use your finger to apply a little of the All Over Color Stick to the inner corner of your eyes.
Please note that there is a powder version and a cream version of the Berry Mix eyeshadow duo. For this look, you can use either product, however, you may need to use your finger or different brushes than the ones suggested here.
e.l.f. Essential Liquid Eyeliner in Black
10 ~ Eyeliner
On your top lash line apply the Essential Liquid Eyeliner in Black, and for a softer look, apply the lighter shadow from the Berry Mix duo on your lower lash line.
11 ~ Mascara
First begin by curling your eyelashes.
I want a natural look in the summer, which is why I recommend using the Studio Lengthening & Volumizing Mascara. I find that this adds just enough length and volume without looking very dramatic.
e.l.f. Luscious Liquid Lipstick in Pink Lemonade
12 ~ Lipstick/Lip Gloss
When I think of summer, I am not using bold, heavy lipsticks, I am using either a lipgloss or a more subtle lipstick because it is quick and easy to apply on the go. I want something bright and fun which is why I suggest Luscious Liquid Lipstick in Pink Lemonade for this look. I would actually consider this more of a lip gloss than a lipstick because it is more sheer than lipstick, and it has the consistency of a gloss.
e.l.f. Mechanical Eyelash Curler
Tools
These are the tools used to complete the look outlined above, and I have specified how you use each one!
* Mechanical Eyelash Curler - to curl eyelashes
* Essential Eye Shadow Brush - use this to pack color all over your eyelid
* Essential Defining Eye Brush - use this to create an outer v and drag the darker shadow into the crease
* Essential Blending Eye Brush - use this to blend your shadows together to soften the transition; the best method is to swirl in circular motions over your eyelid
* Studio Small Angled Brush - use this to apply the eyeshadow to your lower lash line like an eyeliner
* Studio Complexion Brush - use this to apply your bronzer
* Studio Blush Brush - use this to apply your blush
Skin Care: What is emulsion and do you need it?
Emulsion
Emulsion is a mixture of two liquids that would ordinarily not mix together, like oil and vinegar.
This product is a very light water-based moisturizer that works with skins natural oils to promote hydration. The water-based ingredients + your skins naturals oils = emulsion!
It is especially beneficial to those who have sensitive/irritated skin, because the solutions are targeted to provide plenty of hydration with no irritation and are highly absorbent.
TheFaceShop Olive Essential Emulsion.
For Combination/Oily Skin
It won't be a problem finding a lightweight hydrating product, because almost any you find are designed to give a lightweight moisture with a specific benefit.
This Olive Emulsion(left), for example, provides moisture and firming nutrients from olives...without clogging pores!
Others include:
NatureRepublic Green Tea 70 Emulsion
NatureRepublic The First Emulsion
Missha Near Skin Firming Peptide Concentrating Emulsion
TheFaceShop Pomegranate & Collagen Volume Lifting Emulsion (One of my favorites! A natural form of estrogen[skin cell renewing] and collagen!)
Etc.
Missha Super Aqua Hydrating Emulsion.
For Dry Skin
There are many products that focus on hydration.
Some of the popular hydrating emulsions are:
Etude House Skin Mal:Gem Emulsion
TheFaceShop Smim Emulsion
TheFaceShop Rice Ceramide Moisture Emulsion
IOPE Moisture Lasting Emulsion
Missha Near Skin Inner Moist Moisturizing Emulsion
Etc.
Etude House Collagen Emulsion.
Etc.
There are so many types of emulsions to choose from! The list goes on...and no matter what skin type you have the benefits can work for you!!
For example:
the Collagen Emulsion(left) is designed to firm skin and promote elasticity.
NatureRepublic Snail Solution Emulsion (seriously! For smooth and radiant skin!)
NatureRepublic Bee Venom Emulsion (For itchiness/redness.)
TheFaceShop Marine Stem Cell Lifting Emulsion
TheFaceShop Flebeauté White Crystal Brightening Emulsion. (Whitening and Anti-aging!)
Etc.
Shop around and see what brand and what type suits you the most! Samples are commonly for sale with many major brands! Good luck and stay beautiful!
Emulsion is a mixture of two liquids that would ordinarily not mix together, like oil and vinegar.
This product is a very light water-based moisturizer that works with skins natural oils to promote hydration. The water-based ingredients + your skins naturals oils = emulsion!
It is especially beneficial to those who have sensitive/irritated skin, because the solutions are targeted to provide plenty of hydration with no irritation and are highly absorbent.
TheFaceShop Olive Essential Emulsion.
For Combination/Oily Skin
It won't be a problem finding a lightweight hydrating product, because almost any you find are designed to give a lightweight moisture with a specific benefit.
This Olive Emulsion(left), for example, provides moisture and firming nutrients from olives...without clogging pores!
Others include:
NatureRepublic Green Tea 70 Emulsion
NatureRepublic The First Emulsion
Missha Near Skin Firming Peptide Concentrating Emulsion
TheFaceShop Pomegranate & Collagen Volume Lifting Emulsion (One of my favorites! A natural form of estrogen[skin cell renewing] and collagen!)
Etc.
Missha Super Aqua Hydrating Emulsion.
For Dry Skin
There are many products that focus on hydration.
Some of the popular hydrating emulsions are:
Etude House Skin Mal:Gem Emulsion
TheFaceShop Smim Emulsion
TheFaceShop Rice Ceramide Moisture Emulsion
IOPE Moisture Lasting Emulsion
Missha Near Skin Inner Moist Moisturizing Emulsion
Etc.
Etude House Collagen Emulsion.
Etc.
There are so many types of emulsions to choose from! The list goes on...and no matter what skin type you have the benefits can work for you!!
For example:
the Collagen Emulsion(left) is designed to firm skin and promote elasticity.
NatureRepublic Snail Solution Emulsion (seriously! For smooth and radiant skin!)
NatureRepublic Bee Venom Emulsion (For itchiness/redness.)
TheFaceShop Marine Stem Cell Lifting Emulsion
TheFaceShop Flebeauté White Crystal Brightening Emulsion. (Whitening and Anti-aging!)
Etc.
Shop around and see what brand and what type suits you the most! Samples are commonly for sale with many major brands! Good luck and stay beautiful!
If the seller is paying return for the shipping
ask her send you a return label by email (she can save a shipping label as a .pdf file that you can print). If you are paying postage, mail it back according to the seller's directions as long as the seller sent you the return address through eBay.
A refund should be issued w/in 3 days of seller's receipt of the item. Make you sure you have online tracking. If she does not refund you w/in 3 days or the time agreed on by the two of you, open a claim with Paypal.
ParanormalPI’s Guide to Buying Sterling Silver Jewelry on eBay
ParanormalPI’s Guide to Buying Sterling Silver Jewelry on eBay Obviously sterling silver isn’t going to cost as much as gold or platinum jewelry, but there is a huge difference between true sterling jewelry which can last years and plated jewelry that will come apart leaving marks on your skin and turning ugly within weeks. A lot people want cute pieces to wear and they’re either allergic to gold, don’t want to spend a fortune on one fun piece, or if they’re like me, they simply like the look of silver over gold. The problem is a lot of people, especially on sites like eBay, simply advertise their jewelry as “silver”, not plated, not sterling, just silver and that’s where accidents can happen. I have bought my fair share of crap jewelry thinking it was sterling silver; sometimes it was just my not paying attention to the terms used in the listing, but other times it was due to a lack of information in a listing and my negligence to obtain it.
My goal with this guide is to help you be able to identify real sterling silver jewelry so that you don’t over pay for a piece of crap and you don’t end up embarrassed when your finger, arm, or neck starts to turn green from crappy fake silver.
What is Sterling Silver?:
Sterling silver items are made up of 92.5% silver and 7.5% of other metals, although copper is the most common addition. Adding the outside metals helps to strengthen the silver so it remains more durable for a longer period of time. The above standard for sterling silver has actually been around for thousands of years and was made popular in the U.S. about 150 years ago by the Tiffany Co.
Sadly the term “sterling silver” is used and abused way too often buy eBay sellers and more and more people are shelling out money for jewelry that’s not authentic sterling silver. Not all silver is sterling and this concept seems to be lost in eBay land. True sterling silver has to be a minimum of 925 percent silver out of 1,000. As mentioned before, the other 75 percent will be of other metals such as nickel or copper; if a silver item is any less than .925 than it’s not truly sterling silver.
Identifying Sterling Silver:
Although sterling silver is considerably cheaper than gold, platinum, or titanium jewelry, it is still more expensive than your cheap, plated, costume jewelry that you can find for .99 out of China. If the seller is claiming to be selling sterling silver, but is selling it for dirt cheap that is something be weary of.
The most common way to identify sterling silver is with it’s marking or hallmark. The number .925 is on most sterling silver although some companies only write “sterling”. Some companies will only write “ster” or “stg”, I’m guessing due to limited space, and then some will put both “sterling” and the number “.925”. Older sterling silver and/or sterling silver that was made outside of the U.S. may also have a specific hallmark (image), you can look online for a list of those hallmarks.
Once you have possession of the silver I’ve heard and found true through my own experience, that smelling it can help you identify if it’s authentic or not. Plated jewelry will have a real metal smell too it, sort of like a copper penny. From what I understand, neither sterling silver nor gold have a smell to them.
Identifying Silver plated:
The most common mix up is between sterling silver and silver “plated” jewelry, but it’s a big difference. I’ve even seen people trying to advertise jewelry as “sterling silver plated” and there’s no such thing, it’s one or the other, and odds are it’s plated.
Silver plated jewelry is crappy metal, usually copper, that is simply dipped in silver. They cover enough to make the ring look pretty until it’s sold, but within a couple weeks of being worn the crappy metal starts to bleed through. This leads to ugly jewelry, green or brown marks on your skin, and for me itchy and irritated skin!
Identifying Fine Silver:
Fine Silver sounds like a fancy name for a high end silver, but the realty is it’s actually too soft of a silver to even make jewelry out of. Fine silver is made up of 99.9% pure silver which makes it very hard to work with and makes it very prone to nicks, dings, and other imperfections. Luckily there really isn’t a threat of your advertised sterling silver ending up being fine silver.
Other Types of Silver:
There are definitely other types of silver out on the market, but sterling, plated, and fine are really the most prominent, other types are rarer.
So How Do You Buy Sterling Silver on eBay?:
The first thing I’d do is check out the feedback and rating for the seller. If you see a lot of feedback complaining about the quality or the authenticity of the silver I would stay away.
Don’t simply trust a listing that says “Sterling Silver”; look for physical proof within pictures. Look for the identifying marks listed above. If the listing claims to be sterling silver, yet there’s not any pictures to show proof, then either move on to someone else or email the seller asking for proof pictures.
Unmarked sterling silver does exist, but not really on jewelry. Jewelry that’s sterling silver should be marked as so. You should be highly skeptical of any piece of “sterling silver” jewelry that’s not properly marked.
Sadly there are people actually faking hallmarks and adding .925 stamps to jewelry that is not authentic sterling silver. There are even people posting pictures of authentic sterling silver and then shipping out junk. Many of these fakes come from over seas like in China and they are priced at crazy low prices. If it seems too good to be true, it probably is.
The unfortunate reality is buying sterling silver over the internet, especially through a site like eBay is always risky, but if you go with an established seller with a high rating and good track record and you do your homework and look for as much proof as possible, then you are more likely to get a great piece at a fair price instead of a crap piece at an awesome price.
My goal with this guide is to help you be able to identify real sterling silver jewelry so that you don’t over pay for a piece of crap and you don’t end up embarrassed when your finger, arm, or neck starts to turn green from crappy fake silver.
What is Sterling Silver?:
Sterling silver items are made up of 92.5% silver and 7.5% of other metals, although copper is the most common addition. Adding the outside metals helps to strengthen the silver so it remains more durable for a longer period of time. The above standard for sterling silver has actually been around for thousands of years and was made popular in the U.S. about 150 years ago by the Tiffany Co.
Sadly the term “sterling silver” is used and abused way too often buy eBay sellers and more and more people are shelling out money for jewelry that’s not authentic sterling silver. Not all silver is sterling and this concept seems to be lost in eBay land. True sterling silver has to be a minimum of 925 percent silver out of 1,000. As mentioned before, the other 75 percent will be of other metals such as nickel or copper; if a silver item is any less than .925 than it’s not truly sterling silver.
Identifying Sterling Silver:
Although sterling silver is considerably cheaper than gold, platinum, or titanium jewelry, it is still more expensive than your cheap, plated, costume jewelry that you can find for .99 out of China. If the seller is claiming to be selling sterling silver, but is selling it for dirt cheap that is something be weary of.
The most common way to identify sterling silver is with it’s marking or hallmark. The number .925 is on most sterling silver although some companies only write “sterling”. Some companies will only write “ster” or “stg”, I’m guessing due to limited space, and then some will put both “sterling” and the number “.925”. Older sterling silver and/or sterling silver that was made outside of the U.S. may also have a specific hallmark (image), you can look online for a list of those hallmarks.
Once you have possession of the silver I’ve heard and found true through my own experience, that smelling it can help you identify if it’s authentic or not. Plated jewelry will have a real metal smell too it, sort of like a copper penny. From what I understand, neither sterling silver nor gold have a smell to them.
Identifying Silver plated:
The most common mix up is between sterling silver and silver “plated” jewelry, but it’s a big difference. I’ve even seen people trying to advertise jewelry as “sterling silver plated” and there’s no such thing, it’s one or the other, and odds are it’s plated.
Silver plated jewelry is crappy metal, usually copper, that is simply dipped in silver. They cover enough to make the ring look pretty until it’s sold, but within a couple weeks of being worn the crappy metal starts to bleed through. This leads to ugly jewelry, green or brown marks on your skin, and for me itchy and irritated skin!
Identifying Fine Silver:
Fine Silver sounds like a fancy name for a high end silver, but the realty is it’s actually too soft of a silver to even make jewelry out of. Fine silver is made up of 99.9% pure silver which makes it very hard to work with and makes it very prone to nicks, dings, and other imperfections. Luckily there really isn’t a threat of your advertised sterling silver ending up being fine silver.
Other Types of Silver:
There are definitely other types of silver out on the market, but sterling, plated, and fine are really the most prominent, other types are rarer.
So How Do You Buy Sterling Silver on eBay?:
The first thing I’d do is check out the feedback and rating for the seller. If you see a lot of feedback complaining about the quality or the authenticity of the silver I would stay away.
Don’t simply trust a listing that says “Sterling Silver”; look for physical proof within pictures. Look for the identifying marks listed above. If the listing claims to be sterling silver, yet there’s not any pictures to show proof, then either move on to someone else or email the seller asking for proof pictures.
Unmarked sterling silver does exist, but not really on jewelry. Jewelry that’s sterling silver should be marked as so. You should be highly skeptical of any piece of “sterling silver” jewelry that’s not properly marked.
Sadly there are people actually faking hallmarks and adding .925 stamps to jewelry that is not authentic sterling silver. There are even people posting pictures of authentic sterling silver and then shipping out junk. Many of these fakes come from over seas like in China and they are priced at crazy low prices. If it seems too good to be true, it probably is.
The unfortunate reality is buying sterling silver over the internet, especially through a site like eBay is always risky, but if you go with an established seller with a high rating and good track record and you do your homework and look for as much proof as possible, then you are more likely to get a great piece at a fair price instead of a crap piece at an awesome price.
Bringing Home Your New Cat
Whether you're adopting a few weeks old kitten or an older adult cat, there are certain things you will need to make the transition easier for both you and your new pet. You don't have to spend a ton of money to pamper your sweetie, either. Here are some items that will help your cat feel more at home.
A bed
Cats love to nap, and giving them a cozy place to do so is a great idea. To help ensure the kitty lies in her bed and not elsewhere, try placing the new bed near a window or directly in a patch of sun. Don't be surprised if the cat ultimately prefers your bed, though!
A rockin' collar
I have always had girl cats, and I loved to give them sparkly and jazzed up accessories. I love that you can get charms for collars that are totally fine for male pets too! Let everyone know your new kitty's name, and that they are totally spoiled with these cool collars.
Colorful bowls
I love that these bowls are so vibrant, and that if you need to travel with your pet, you can just fold them up and go. Silicone is also super durable.
Covered litterbox
We all know that cats need to use a litter box, but there's no need to have to smell it! I have always used covered litter boxes and they help cut down on the unpleasant odors a lot.
Fun toys
Kittens can make a toy out of anything, but as your cat gets older they will crave more stimulation. If you have the space, getting your cat a scratching post or a tower will give them a place to expend their energy, and hopefully stop them from ruining your furniture!
These are just some of the basics for bringing home a new cat. Most importantly, what they will need is a lot of love and time to get acclimated to a new home. In time, your kitty will come around and be your new best friend.
A bed
Cats love to nap, and giving them a cozy place to do so is a great idea. To help ensure the kitty lies in her bed and not elsewhere, try placing the new bed near a window or directly in a patch of sun. Don't be surprised if the cat ultimately prefers your bed, though!
A rockin' collar
I have always had girl cats, and I loved to give them sparkly and jazzed up accessories. I love that you can get charms for collars that are totally fine for male pets too! Let everyone know your new kitty's name, and that they are totally spoiled with these cool collars.
Colorful bowls
I love that these bowls are so vibrant, and that if you need to travel with your pet, you can just fold them up and go. Silicone is also super durable.
Covered litterbox
We all know that cats need to use a litter box, but there's no need to have to smell it! I have always used covered litter boxes and they help cut down on the unpleasant odors a lot.
Fun toys
Kittens can make a toy out of anything, but as your cat gets older they will crave more stimulation. If you have the space, getting your cat a scratching post or a tower will give them a place to expend their energy, and hopefully stop them from ruining your furniture!
These are just some of the basics for bringing home a new cat. Most importantly, what they will need is a lot of love and time to get acclimated to a new home. In time, your kitty will come around and be your new best friend.
Is there any possibility to adjust the total price after placed the order ? (for sellers)
Yes, if you go to the Sold Awaiting Payment list, the seller can adjust the invoice either by adjusting the shipping or by putting a plus or minus quantity in the discount (don't forget the minus sign if it's a discount).
If the invoice is combined and needs to be uncombined (and re-combined) that can be done in the View Order Details page.
If the item is already paid, the only way to do it is to send a PayPal bill if it's too low, or to give a PayPal partial refund if the buyer was overcharged.
If it's more than one item and one is paid and the other isn't, you can adjust the invoice for the one that's as-yet-unpaid in the Sold Awaiting Payment list.
What to Pack in Your Carry On
You want access to these and not have them packed away in you checked luggage. If your luggage gets lost for some reason you will also want these handy.
Medication
You will want access to medications if you take them on a regular basis. Once again if you luggage gets lost you will be without these medications.
Electronics
Keeping electronics in your carry on will decrease the risk of them be broken or stolen. Luggage Is not handled very delicately, and plane turbulence can also jostle your luggage within the plane. Anything with value should be kept within your reach.
Toiletries
Going along with the other theme, you will not want to be without these items if you luggage gets lost. It is also nice to have these items to freshen up during the flight.
Extra Change of Clothes
A change of clothes comes is convenient if you are waiting on your luggage to arrive. You won’t have to waist your money on buying new clothes.
Snacks & Entertainment
Let’s face it; flights can be long and boring. Entertainment and snacks are nice for this! Pick up some water when you get through security. Planes are is very dry. Snacks are not always provided on the plane so be prepared with you favorite goodies.
Medication
You will want access to medications if you take them on a regular basis. Once again if you luggage gets lost you will be without these medications.
Electronics
Keeping electronics in your carry on will decrease the risk of them be broken or stolen. Luggage Is not handled very delicately, and plane turbulence can also jostle your luggage within the plane. Anything with value should be kept within your reach.
Toiletries
Going along with the other theme, you will not want to be without these items if you luggage gets lost. It is also nice to have these items to freshen up during the flight.
Extra Change of Clothes
A change of clothes comes is convenient if you are waiting on your luggage to arrive. You won’t have to waist your money on buying new clothes.
Snacks & Entertainment
Let’s face it; flights can be long and boring. Entertainment and snacks are nice for this! Pick up some water when you get through security. Planes are is very dry. Snacks are not always provided on the plane so be prepared with you favorite goodies.
Donnerstag, 15. Mai 2014
You make a personal account, you make a biz account.
About a week ago i posted about few weeks ago i posted about another Ebay user, who sells the exact same product line i recently added to my inventory, and was being a real pain, making low ball offers on my items along with nasty comments.
With advice from the board, i blocked the user, and ignored the offers and comments.
Today, the same user, who has a facebook account with the same exact name started posting on my business facebook page, making more but similar nasty comments in several different posts on the page. He was using his Ebay user name facebook account, and personal facebook user (his actual name) to make these comments.
His first post was:
"Why am I blocked from bidding on your eBay items? I don't even know who you are to begin questioning your motives for doing so!?"
After i answered his first and loudest post with a very polite "thanks for the comment" and did not respond to any of his questions or comments (many are in bold letters), he posted:
"And your reply doesn't even come close to answering WHY I am blocked from even bidding on your items? I do not even know you or your work."
I am at a loss as to what to do.
I can remove the posts and comments, but how do i get this person off my back?
Any other advice is welcome.Review your Facebook settings. I think you can prevent non-friends from making comments or adding content to your timeline. In other words, you can block comments from John Q. Public but still allow friends and maybe friends of friends to post.
I think you also can block specific individuals from your Facebook account, but this may not transfer to a Facebook "page" attached to your account.
Personally, I would respond and tell the person that you automatically block "competitors" on eBay and that you did not appreciate his low-ball offers and nasty comments. (Then make sure your listings with Best Offer have an automatic "reject" for offers below a certain amount.)
With advice from the board, i blocked the user, and ignored the offers and comments.
Today, the same user, who has a facebook account with the same exact name started posting on my business facebook page, making more but similar nasty comments in several different posts on the page. He was using his Ebay user name facebook account, and personal facebook user (his actual name) to make these comments.
His first post was:
"Why am I blocked from bidding on your eBay items? I don't even know who you are to begin questioning your motives for doing so!?"
After i answered his first and loudest post with a very polite "thanks for the comment" and did not respond to any of his questions or comments (many are in bold letters), he posted:
"And your reply doesn't even come close to answering WHY I am blocked from even bidding on your items? I do not even know you or your work."
I am at a loss as to what to do.
I can remove the posts and comments, but how do i get this person off my back?
Any other advice is welcome.Review your Facebook settings. I think you can prevent non-friends from making comments or adding content to your timeline. In other words, you can block comments from John Q. Public but still allow friends and maybe friends of friends to post.
I think you also can block specific individuals from your Facebook account, but this may not transfer to a Facebook "page" attached to your account.
Personally, I would respond and tell the person that you automatically block "competitors" on eBay and that you did not appreciate his low-ball offers and nasty comments. (Then make sure your listings with Best Offer have an automatic "reject" for offers below a certain amount.)
I know this has been gone over and OVER but I'm still not clear and I'm in a dilemma here
UK buyer made a purchase through the GSP. She paid. She then sends me a ton of messages stating she A.) wants to cancel due to she thinks there will be more import fees. B.) she needs to cancel because there is a problem with her PayPal acc./credit card.
I message her back, tell her she's already paid so the payment went through, and that she paid through GSP so there will be no more import fees.
She message me back and says please cancel the sale and refund my payment. So I message her, say 'no problem, I will send you a cancellation request and refund your money'.
As soon as I clicked the send button, I thought Oh God, I forgot about the DEFECT.
So now, how do I refund her in full without getting a defect? Also I can't find the link to send a cancellation request. I went to the awaiting shipment page, and clicked on the right side of the screen where normally this button would be, and it's not there.
Will this give me a defect if I cancel? I pretty much have to follow through now regardless, since I told her I would do it. But I don't want to worry needlessly.Here's the way I am doing them.
1) I let the buyer know that I need to send the cancel first, and that the refund should show within minutes of the cancel in their email box, once the refund shows please go ahead and accept the cancel. (Usually in the response to their request to cancel, and I will be doing it in their resquests to return if I get any returns (I rarely do))
2) In the cancel I tell the buyer why I am sending the cancel, (you requested the refund because you no longer want the item and have changed your mind) after I have chosen "buyer changed mind" (most of mine happen before the item is sent)
3) As soon as I hit send on the cancel request I go to the paypal tab I already have open and do the refund. (I'm aiming for seconds between the emails with the goal of being within minutes of each other)
In some cases (ok most cases) the refund hits before eBay sends the cancel email... so the order they get in their box is usually refund then cancel request... PayPal's emails go faster than eBay's do, but in the system eBay can see the cancel came before the refund.
I message her back, tell her she's already paid so the payment went through, and that she paid through GSP so there will be no more import fees.
She message me back and says please cancel the sale and refund my payment. So I message her, say 'no problem, I will send you a cancellation request and refund your money'.
As soon as I clicked the send button, I thought Oh God, I forgot about the DEFECT.
So now, how do I refund her in full without getting a defect? Also I can't find the link to send a cancellation request. I went to the awaiting shipment page, and clicked on the right side of the screen where normally this button would be, and it's not there.
Will this give me a defect if I cancel? I pretty much have to follow through now regardless, since I told her I would do it. But I don't want to worry needlessly.Here's the way I am doing them.
1) I let the buyer know that I need to send the cancel first, and that the refund should show within minutes of the cancel in their email box, once the refund shows please go ahead and accept the cancel. (Usually in the response to their request to cancel, and I will be doing it in their resquests to return if I get any returns (I rarely do))
2) In the cancel I tell the buyer why I am sending the cancel, (you requested the refund because you no longer want the item and have changed your mind) after I have chosen "buyer changed mind" (most of mine happen before the item is sent)
3) As soon as I hit send on the cancel request I go to the paypal tab I already have open and do the refund. (I'm aiming for seconds between the emails with the goal of being within minutes of each other)
In some cases (ok most cases) the refund hits before eBay sends the cancel email... so the order they get in their box is usually refund then cancel request... PayPal's emails go faster than eBay's do, but in the system eBay can see the cancel came before the refund.
I mail decals in standard size envelopes
I haven't had a problem doing it that way until the last three weeks. All the sudden a lot of buyers are not receiving their decals. I thought maybe the weather issues that were occuring in the United States might have something to do with it. After I sent another decal out to a buyer that's within the same state I'm in and still asn't received it, I'm thinking USPS is really dropping the ball on delivering mail. It's not necessary to mail the decals in package envelopes, but can I get a tracking number for standard size envelopes? Is there a pice difference? Or is it just better to send it as a package?You can't get tracking for standard envelopes. The lowest price to ship with tracking is $1.93 and if you raise the shipping price that much, you can't compete with products from China.
I've shipped thousands of items in regular envelopes without problems but... even though "disappeared" envelopes are rare (very rare), I've had more disappear in the last three months than in the last 15 years.
Why?
I'm not sure... but the number isn't high enough yet for me to stop the way I'm doing it. Even now, with a "rash" of missing envelopes, it's still only about 1 in 1,000 that goes missing.
I've shipped thousands of items in regular envelopes without problems but... even though "disappeared" envelopes are rare (very rare), I've had more disappear in the last three months than in the last 15 years.
Why?
I'm not sure... but the number isn't high enough yet for me to stop the way I'm doing it. Even now, with a "rash" of missing envelopes, it's still only about 1 in 1,000 that goes missing.
I sold an item to someone, was unable to obtain paypal seller protection/verified address
so (at the advice of a fellow ebayer) I refunded their money, and sent them an invoice allowing them to purchase the item again with a confirmed address.
It has been 5 days, and there has been no response from them as well as no feedback left.
I will contact them again- if they don't respond, am I cleared to sell the item to someone else?
Am I safe from a negative feedback response since I offered them an invoice?
At this point your buyer will either email you asking why his payment was refunded, or he will, since he did pay, leave appropriate feedback and star ratings to express his disappointment, in other words...
he may just give you negative feedback.
You received bad advice from your fellow eBayer, in the future, if you have questions feel free to come to these boards and ask.
It has been 5 days, and there has been no response from them as well as no feedback left.
I will contact them again- if they don't respond, am I cleared to sell the item to someone else?
Am I safe from a negative feedback response since I offered them an invoice?
At this point your buyer will either email you asking why his payment was refunded, or he will, since he did pay, leave appropriate feedback and star ratings to express his disappointment, in other words...
he may just give you negative feedback.
You received bad advice from your fellow eBayer, in the future, if you have questions feel free to come to these boards and ask.
What is the best way to handle this situheation
I am selling a fragile item (a mirror) the auction starting price is 299 and buy it now for 400. It is local pickup only because of fragility and how expensive it is. I have a potential buyer who is very interested and wants to have her husband pick it up in about 3 weeks when he will be about 1-2 hours away from me. She said she doesnt have a paypal account and how should she pay me to hold it. I am not sure what is the best way to handle this that would protect me. i know local pick up is usually cash on delivery. Should I ask for her to send me the buy it now or auction price in a check or money order and then wait for it to clear and then cancel the auction?You would be violating ebay policy if you accept the money order and then cancel the transaction... it would be considered an off eBay transaction.
If the bidder wants it they will have to bid or use the buy it now icon.
They can just pay cash when they come to pick it up.
I suppose you could have them send a M.O. as a deposit. That is up to you.
If the bidder wants it they will have to bid or use the buy it now icon.
They can just pay cash when they come to pick it up.
I suppose you could have them send a M.O. as a deposit. That is up to you.
vintage I don't play well with my other playmates in the sandbox when a problem they created arises
Yes the item was shipped via PM & includes enough automatic insurance to cover the loss, the vase was not switched out, I am sure it is the same vase. The buyer was just very picky, it had a tiny bit of dirt in the bottom which would have washed out in an instant (I should have one so) & there was an underglaze production boo-boo which I failed to note, these things are so minor that the vase was clearly resellable, this is a vintage 1940's vase, easy to find production errors. Doesn't matter now, the real damage was done when the vase was returned. I do not want to issue a refund until she has filed an insurance claim but only have 3 days and it will be done for me. Just not sure what to do.On the current form I am seeing in the Resolution Center there seems to be no way for a seller to send another message regarding the open case. I have notified the Buyer and filled out the "Report Buyer" form, hopefully it will get coordinated with the case prior to eBay closing the case and refunding the money to the buyer. I will call them early in the am and try to inform them of this problem. As it stands now, the buyer will get automatically refunded from my account in 3 days & can then obtain a refund for USPS also. Buyer will be DOUBLE REWARDED and SELLER will be DOUBLE PUNISHED. There should be a better way to handle this, but don't know how. Unexpected Consequenses to eBay's trying to have a "one-size fits all" policy again!
Last month I had an item listed on Ebay Motors with a "Buy it now" option
Someone (with only 2 feedback points) decided it would be a great idea to hit the "Buy it now" button and not pay. I contacted the "buyer" through e-mail and telphone. E-mails weren't responded to and when I got him on the phone he hung up on me as soon as I mentioned who I was and why I was calling. So I went through the procedure to open a case only to have the "buyer" (not surprisingly) not respond. Ebay automatically closed the case and the "buyer" allegedly got a strike.
Here's the problem, Ebay still charged me a selling fee of $32.55. When I brought this to the attention of Ebay customer support, the representitive I spoke to claimed that I "voluntarily" made the payment! Which is absolutely not true! When I told him that he said that my account may have been hacked? That sounded very bizarre to me since I've had no unusual activity on my account, and why would someone "hack" my account to pay Ebay?
After spending hours on the phone, (yes hours) to try and resolve this matter, all Ebay could do is "put in a request for a refund".
It's been weeks since I've brought this to the attention of Ebay Customer Support, and still no money back in my account or a response from Ebay regarding the situation.
Situations like these really never want to make me sell on Ebay, even as a last resort.
Has any seller besides me encountered a similar issue? If so what was done to get your money back?Let me rephrase, I did close the case and from there Ebay automatically takes further action. This isn't the first time I had to deal with a non-paying member.
Here is text from the e-mail I got from Ebay after I closed the case.
"You've received a final value fee credit. Also, an unpaid item has been recorded on the buyer's account."
I sure as heck didn't let anything go here! Let's just say, if I did open the case and in your words "let it go", (which again I did not) that shouldn't justify me not being refunded for something I never sold anyway, that's unethical.
Here's the problem, Ebay still charged me a selling fee of $32.55. When I brought this to the attention of Ebay customer support, the representitive I spoke to claimed that I "voluntarily" made the payment! Which is absolutely not true! When I told him that he said that my account may have been hacked? That sounded very bizarre to me since I've had no unusual activity on my account, and why would someone "hack" my account to pay Ebay?
After spending hours on the phone, (yes hours) to try and resolve this matter, all Ebay could do is "put in a request for a refund".
It's been weeks since I've brought this to the attention of Ebay Customer Support, and still no money back in my account or a response from Ebay regarding the situation.
Situations like these really never want to make me sell on Ebay, even as a last resort.
Has any seller besides me encountered a similar issue? If so what was done to get your money back?Let me rephrase, I did close the case and from there Ebay automatically takes further action. This isn't the first time I had to deal with a non-paying member.
Here is text from the e-mail I got from Ebay after I closed the case.
"You've received a final value fee credit. Also, an unpaid item has been recorded on the buyer's account."
I sure as heck didn't let anything go here! Let's just say, if I did open the case and in your words "let it go", (which again I did not) that shouldn't justify me not being refunded for something I never sold anyway, that's unethical.
I’d love to see someone make them prove that statement.
The statement is true in some categories. It depends on what you are selling and how expensive you are listing it. Right now I have a very nice vintage piece and from what I have seen it will do well as an auction. So i could list it as FP for $250 and the odds are good that no one will buy it. But if I listed it as auctio with a start price of $24.99, I can guarantee you that it will get bids and sell, for close to the $250 I'd like to get..
I think that ebay has realized that because of their fee gouging most of the FP listings are overpriced and that buyers are passing them by. But buyers looking for bargains are starting to go for auction listings rather than the FP ones.
I looked at the differences between Fixed Price and auction back when ebay was pushing FP on sellers like it was the greatest thing since toilet paper.
For the stuff I sell on ebay now, used newer style clothing, FP is perfect for that. The buyers in that genre want it now, are impatient, impulsive and so BIN is the way to go. An auction means that they see it, put in a bid and when they see that they have to wait to see if they won, they move on. Most have forgotten, or bought another by the time the listing is over.
For my vintage stuff, the regular buyers in that genre think about waht it is, whether it will fit, read the listing, compare with others like it, ect. Auction is great for them because while they may want it now, they are willing to wait to get what they want. So in the vintage cats, regular buyers of that genre will bid and buy at auction.
Unfortunately ebay ran off most of those buyers by running off the sellers in that genre. And ebay would place vintage listings in search results for buyers that are looking for mall new and of course the impulse FP buyers would have problems with the vintage item. Yes it was cute, but it didn't fit, was the wrong color, the style isn't want I wanted, ect, ect, so smart sellers either left ebay entirely or their vintage stuff left ebay and they sold something different on ebay.
I think that ebay has realized that because of their fee gouging most of the FP listings are overpriced and that buyers are passing them by. But buyers looking for bargains are starting to go for auction listings rather than the FP ones.
I looked at the differences between Fixed Price and auction back when ebay was pushing FP on sellers like it was the greatest thing since toilet paper.
For the stuff I sell on ebay now, used newer style clothing, FP is perfect for that. The buyers in that genre want it now, are impatient, impulsive and so BIN is the way to go. An auction means that they see it, put in a bid and when they see that they have to wait to see if they won, they move on. Most have forgotten, or bought another by the time the listing is over.
For my vintage stuff, the regular buyers in that genre think about waht it is, whether it will fit, read the listing, compare with others like it, ect. Auction is great for them because while they may want it now, they are willing to wait to get what they want. So in the vintage cats, regular buyers of that genre will bid and buy at auction.
Unfortunately ebay ran off most of those buyers by running off the sellers in that genre. And ebay would place vintage listings in search results for buyers that are looking for mall new and of course the impulse FP buyers would have problems with the vintage item. Yes it was cute, but it didn't fit, was the wrong color, the style isn't want I wanted, ect, ect, so smart sellers either left ebay entirely or their vintage stuff left ebay and they sold something different on ebay.
I have a buyer who purchased a pair of sport boots
(To protect a horses legs when running barrels, speed events, etc), just opened up a case stating the item was defective. They purchased this item 3 weeks ago and used it on their horse multiple times and they are stating defective item as the boots got torn/damaged by the horse. THe entire point of the boots is to protect the legs of the horse while doing faster events, which the boots did protect the legs, but have damange now due to the horse clipping the boots in use. So, they opened a case as not as described. I am wondering if I even have a fighting chance at this one considering the boots were used mutliple times and horses can damange nearly anything and the point of the boots is to protect the legs of the horse and they did that, but in the meantime, the horse wrecked them when in use.
Abonnieren
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