but, Ebay's "Report Item" link leads to a dead-end where you get close to the problem, but can NOT express it precisely enough to expect that it will be understood.
#1: A van listing which states that it is "extended" -- length is at least as important as brand, when selecting a van. I could almost tell from the quarter view photos that the van is NOT extended. I contacted the seller, who directed me to more photos on his own web site. I confirmed my suspiction, and politely notified the seller that the van is not extended, and that he'll be in for unpleasantness once the van sells. 2 days later, the incorrect description remains, and people are bidding on the van. In trying to report this, the closest I could get was Listing Practices>Vehicle Misrepresentation>Vehicle Misrepresentation -- which has an Info item that says "The listing misrepresents the vehicle's title or vehicle identification number (VIN), or it doesn't include a VIN." ... which does not apply.
#2: A van listing on which I placed an initial bid. The seller has contacted me directly by email -- which also contains my phone number and city -- stating "Please feel free to give me a call if you are interested in purchasing this vehicle or if you have anymore questions" ... and provides full contact information. This is creepy, and appears to be an attempt at avoiding Ebay fees. Yet, when I try to report it, I get to Listing Practices>Avoiding Ebay Fees... and none of the selections that follow apply.
What's wrong with this picture? Why does Ebay NOT want to know about these problems?If a seller describes an item it is not ebays business to tell them it isn't what they describe it as. If they're selling a car and advertising a truck it's up to the potential bidder to clarify as to what they might be bidding on.
There is nothing more irritating to a seller than someone jumping on the bandwagon and telling the seller what they have listed is wrong~~it's something else when it is in fact listed correctly. Ebay is not going to pull the listing because you think it's incorrect. If you aren't going to bid on it don't worry about it.
Mittwoch, 30. April 2014
Why can't you open a SNAD complaint?
The problem with buying items from International sellers is...
if there is a problem the cost of returning the item with tracking usually exceeds the items price.
You are not the first person to come to the boards about a wedding dress purchased from an International Chinese seller, nor will you be the last. Some report that the item took forever to arrive, others complained that the size was not the size they ordered.
If you funded your purchase using a credit card through Paypal, I suggest you call the number on the back of the card and inquire about a chargeback.
If that is not an option...
I would suggest you find a competent seamstress to see if they can let the dress out enough for you to use.OH Yes!.....Not me, but many others have! Buy a wedding dress from China is not a good idea.
I'm so sorry that you lost all your money. You should have open a case as soon as you received it. You would have paid, dearly, to ship it back with tracking. PLEASE read about ebays' Money Back Garrenty/ buyer protection.
Sellers must get a product to a buyer within a certain time frame and buyers must handle issues with sellers, right away. Questions need to be asked before bidding or BINs.
Too bad you didn't come here to the AC to ask if it's a good idea to buy from there. Every savvy responder would have said 'NO. It is NOT a good idea'.
Call ebay, explain the dilema. They won't help you but if you try over and over again, as in the squeaky wheel gets greased, maybe on an extreme slight chance, some rep will help you. Highly doubtful. If your paypal is backed by a CC, try calling your CC company, explain and see if they'd allow a chargeback. It makes me sick to hear these sort of stories about China sellers.
a call would be a waste of time
There is a link to report a listing on every listing page on the site. You can follow the prompts and choose from the options available on the drop-down menus. Since you give no clue as to what has offended you, I will refrain from making suggestions as to which option you should choose.
eBay may or may not take action, depending on what you are reporting. What you find offensive may not be prohibited. Again, you've given no clue as to the nature of the item(s), so it's impossible to say one way or the other.
If you insist on ringing them, you can find the telephone number by using the Customer Support link which is at the top of almost every page on the site or the Contact Us link which likewise may be found down at the bottom of almost every page on the site. Follow the prompts. They prohibit the posting of telephone numbers on the boards, including their own.
eBay may or may not take action, depending on what you are reporting. What you find offensive may not be prohibited. Again, you've given no clue as to the nature of the item(s), so it's impossible to say one way or the other.
If you insist on ringing them, you can find the telephone number by using the Customer Support link which is at the top of almost every page on the site or the Contact Us link which likewise may be found down at the bottom of almost every page on the site. Follow the prompts. They prohibit the posting of telephone numbers on the boards, including their own.
Opening and closing the Unpaid Item dispute is very important.
The deadbeat buyer will get a UPI Strke. If they get reported again (or previously), they'll find out that many, many sellers automatically block bidders with mulitple UPI strikes for a YEAR.
You will get the Final Value Fee on the winging price removed from your monthly ebay bill. Did you know you have been billed by eBay for the 10% Final Value Fee on the winning price?
Neither you or the buyer can leave feedback. If they left neg or neu feedback before you closed the UPI, you can have eBay remove it.
The deadbeat can't pay for the listing anymore. You are free to resell the item(s) to someone else.
You will get the Final Value Fee on the winging price removed from your monthly ebay bill. Did you know you have been billed by eBay for the 10% Final Value Fee on the winning price?
Neither you or the buyer can leave feedback. If they left neg or neu feedback before you closed the UPI, you can have eBay remove it.
The deadbeat can't pay for the listing anymore. You are free to resell the item(s) to someone else.
Ive had that happen a few times and it is pure panic.
One important fact of having a lot of stuff listed with very little space for organizing is that the longer it takes for an item to sell, the more likely it is to get misplaced as stuff gets shuffled around. Another important fact is that the more stuff you have sell in a short period of time, the more likely it is that you will forget to annotate it as sold in your record keeping system. For me, I have a directory in Turbo Lister for each month and each account for Sold / Will Sell. I've noticed that in the few instances where it turns out an item sold that had been previously sold, it was due to getting distracted and not immediately moving its entry to that directory.
Now, when something sells, and I suddenly get the nagging feeling that this could have been an oops, I first check the month that its pictures were uploaded to Photobucket (I make a new directory for each month there). Then I go back to the associated spreadsheets for that month and later and see if it did indeed sell. If it didn't, then I go back to the first spreadsheet and look to see what else was listed the day that item went up the first time. That will quite often give me a good inkling of where to look, because chances are, one of those items will be one I had recently seen while dealing with other items.
Now, when something sells, and I suddenly get the nagging feeling that this could have been an oops, I first check the month that its pictures were uploaded to Photobucket (I make a new directory for each month there). Then I go back to the associated spreadsheets for that month and later and see if it did indeed sell. If it didn't, then I go back to the first spreadsheet and look to see what else was listed the day that item went up the first time. That will quite often give me a good inkling of where to look, because chances are, one of those items will be one I had recently seen while dealing with other items.
I think there's a lag time to update those shipped that day
i'd like to know if the same thing is happening to you...
when i click on my dashboard a screen appears in front of it.
it is titled; New Seller Peformance Standards.
under; Tracking uploaded within... etc....
it says that 169 of out 179 have been uploaded....
yesterday it only showed 3 not uploaded; today it went up by 7.
Which exactly the number of packages i have shipped today.
and yesterday i have shipped 3.
i use Ebay shipping and i even wait in line at the USPS to have my packages scanned.
the packages all show in transit.
my percentage fell down to 94% (from 100%).
any idea what is going on?
is this happening to some of you too?
to be top rated i cannot go under 90%.
had i shipped 20 packages today, i'd be under that.
when i click on my dashboard a screen appears in front of it.
it is titled; New Seller Peformance Standards.
under; Tracking uploaded within... etc....
it says that 169 of out 179 have been uploaded....
yesterday it only showed 3 not uploaded; today it went up by 7.
Which exactly the number of packages i have shipped today.
and yesterday i have shipped 3.
i use Ebay shipping and i even wait in line at the USPS to have my packages scanned.
the packages all show in transit.
my percentage fell down to 94% (from 100%).
any idea what is going on?
is this happening to some of you too?
to be top rated i cannot go under 90%.
had i shipped 20 packages today, i'd be under that.
Tracking uploaded is where you printed your label OR stuck the number in the sales page
Tracking uploaded within your time is did you print your label OR stick the number in before your handling time ran out
The last one only updates when eBay sees a scan for it some where along the line....
NONE of the 3 may EVER match up... unless you sell 1 -2 items a week, then they will catch up with each other once the items are scanned.
That pop up pages updates daily... so as your packages get scans along the way the bottom number will go up... but if you print labels that day the number will go back down again as well...
at the top of the new page click the button that says show additional actions
Normal part of business, buyer bought plate, paid, then realized that it was not the one she wanted. Minutes after paying I recieve request for cancelation. Normally that would have been no problem, just refund and done.
Wanted cancel through ebay, (to avoid defect) the only option is report buyer and no option there for cancel. Used that feature but used problem not shown and entered the request. Have heard nothing back. Will go ahead and refund buyer this afternoon, if I wait longer I will get a defect for not adding tracking so not much choice.
This new system is confusing, I have read on the board that just refunds will give you defect so will I really get a defect for refunding and canceling transaction?
Sending the item is not an option, it would be returned and I would be out shipping and so would buyer.
Could someone just set me straight on this please, bit confused here!
On the all selling page find the transaction
Click order details page
at the top of the new page click the button that says show additional actions,
then find "resolve problem",
then pick "Canel order",
then when you get to that 3rd page chose "buyer changed mind"...
put notes in the box, "buyer requested cancel", click submit or send w/e one it is.
Then go to paypal and refund the buyer. You want to do it quickly enough that they pretty much hit the buyers email at the same time or one right after the other.
Wanted cancel through ebay, (to avoid defect) the only option is report buyer and no option there for cancel. Used that feature but used problem not shown and entered the request. Have heard nothing back. Will go ahead and refund buyer this afternoon, if I wait longer I will get a defect for not adding tracking so not much choice.
This new system is confusing, I have read on the board that just refunds will give you defect so will I really get a defect for refunding and canceling transaction?
Sending the item is not an option, it would be returned and I would be out shipping and so would buyer.
Could someone just set me straight on this please, bit confused here!
On the all selling page find the transaction
Click order details page
at the top of the new page click the button that says show additional actions,
then find "resolve problem",
then pick "Canel order",
then when you get to that 3rd page chose "buyer changed mind"...
put notes in the box, "buyer requested cancel", click submit or send w/e one it is.
Then go to paypal and refund the buyer. You want to do it quickly enough that they pretty much hit the buyers email at the same time or one right after the other.
hopefully the delivery one is one of them
All I can say is it not enough that we upload tracking a and ship out items within one business day only to have to rely on the good old USPS to scan them in or we get a defect!! That is EBAY BS right there at its best ! I mean every time I have an item arrive at a buyer and I get the FB from that buy without the delivery being scanned I make a report to the USPS inspectors for the lazy delivery man not doing their job. Now we have to rely on them again. Maybe we should ship everything to EBAY for them to inspect for As Described and for them to deliver. Maybe they should take some responsibility ! I wait for the day an EBAY Conference comes within a four to five hour drive from Virginia Beach so I can get belligerent with the BRASS there !
I HAVE A BUYER WHO ASKED ABOUT COMBINED SHIPPED BEFORE PURCHASING
I DISCLOSED IT, HE BOUGHT 11 ITEMS AND NOW WANTS TO CANCEL BECAUSE HE THINKS COMBINED SHIPPING IS TOO HIGH...EVEN THOUGH IT'S LESSTHAN THE AMOUNT PREVIOUSLY DISCLOSED.
HE SENT NOTHING BUT ANGRY EMAILS, I MAINTAINED CALM, NON-COMBATIVE REPLIES, OFFERING TO REDUCE SHIPPING MORE. HIS FINAL WORD WAS CANCEL TRANSACTION.
IF I CANCEL PURCHASE, HE COULD LEAVE 11 NEG FEEDBACKS. IF I OPEN A UPI CASE, I'M PROTECTED FROM NEG FEEDBACK...UNLESS HE PAYS. HE COULD PAY AND LEAVE WORSE FB FOR NOT DOING WHAT HE WANTED IN THE FIRST PLACE.
11 NEG FBs WOULD KILL MY POWER/TOP-RATED - THAT'S WHAT REALLY STINKS - IT WAS 1 TRANSACTION, NOT 11 DEALS, EACH GOING BAD.
I DON'T KNOW WHICH WAY TO GO WITH THIS - CAN ANYONE OFFER SOME ADVICE? ANYONE HAVE ANYTHING SIMILAR?Open 11 UPI cases. if your going to get dinged get dinged. "save that message' if he opens any cases that will help and if he does open cases more then likely any negative feedback can be removed.... buyers don't get 2 wacks at you only 1.
Remember he can't leave negative feed back if you open a upi case and if he tries before its closed you can get it removed
I would UPI him. WOW 11 UPI's and he won't be buying on ebay for 12 months. Oh and put him on your BBL list NOW... also print out and save his name and address just in case he opens another buyer id and tries to bypass the blocks and mess with your acocunts. that way you can call CS and report him.
HE SENT NOTHING BUT ANGRY EMAILS, I MAINTAINED CALM, NON-COMBATIVE REPLIES, OFFERING TO REDUCE SHIPPING MORE. HIS FINAL WORD WAS CANCEL TRANSACTION.
IF I CANCEL PURCHASE, HE COULD LEAVE 11 NEG FEEDBACKS. IF I OPEN A UPI CASE, I'M PROTECTED FROM NEG FEEDBACK...UNLESS HE PAYS. HE COULD PAY AND LEAVE WORSE FB FOR NOT DOING WHAT HE WANTED IN THE FIRST PLACE.
11 NEG FBs WOULD KILL MY POWER/TOP-RATED - THAT'S WHAT REALLY STINKS - IT WAS 1 TRANSACTION, NOT 11 DEALS, EACH GOING BAD.
I DON'T KNOW WHICH WAY TO GO WITH THIS - CAN ANYONE OFFER SOME ADVICE? ANYONE HAVE ANYTHING SIMILAR?Open 11 UPI cases. if your going to get dinged get dinged. "save that message' if he opens any cases that will help and if he does open cases more then likely any negative feedback can be removed.... buyers don't get 2 wacks at you only 1.
Remember he can't leave negative feed back if you open a upi case and if he tries before its closed you can get it removed
I would UPI him. WOW 11 UPI's and he won't be buying on ebay for 12 months. Oh and put him on your BBL list NOW... also print out and save his name and address just in case he opens another buyer id and tries to bypass the blocks and mess with your acocunts. that way you can call CS and report him.
a seller needs to never send an invoice
ebay has done that for them and everytime a buyer logs it they are reminded to pay.
if your buyer has not paid in 48 hours simply open a UPI case that gives the buyer 4 more days to pay w/o any penalty and you ship it off or you can close the case 4 days after and get your fee's credited back to you and relist your item, buyer gets a strike.
don't make it hard. there is NEVER a reason for a seller to send an invoice to a buyer unless they are offering some type of discount on shipping and didn't set up their shipping discounts correctly for ebay's invoicing system to apply it.
i'm buyer and seller hadn't specified shipping costs to outside UK in the listing so i sent a message and asked for shipping costs.
seller replied and i made an purchase. when i was paying i had to make invoice request to seller but he never answered to that.
i have sent two messages to seller about invoice but he hasn't answered. i made purchase 6 days ago.
problem is that i really need that product i was buying and i bought them from someone else. now i liked to cancel my purchase.
can seller open an unpaid item case after making me wait this long without responding to my request?
EDIT. it was ok to seller to send to outside UK
if your buyer has not paid in 48 hours simply open a UPI case that gives the buyer 4 more days to pay w/o any penalty and you ship it off or you can close the case 4 days after and get your fee's credited back to you and relist your item, buyer gets a strike.
don't make it hard. there is NEVER a reason for a seller to send an invoice to a buyer unless they are offering some type of discount on shipping and didn't set up their shipping discounts correctly for ebay's invoicing system to apply it.
i'm buyer and seller hadn't specified shipping costs to outside UK in the listing so i sent a message and asked for shipping costs.
seller replied and i made an purchase. when i was paying i had to make invoice request to seller but he never answered to that.
i have sent two messages to seller about invoice but he hasn't answered. i made purchase 6 days ago.
problem is that i really need that product i was buying and i bought them from someone else. now i liked to cancel my purchase.
can seller open an unpaid item case after making me wait this long without responding to my request?
EDIT. it was ok to seller to send to outside UK
What does the trend on plastic car parts look like?
09:00am - Global leather production reduces by 0.0085% - increase item price by 0.07 cents in anticipation of future demand.
10:35am - World of Leather announce they are coming to ebay - decrease item price by 0.67 cents in anticipation of reduced dmenad
12:15pm - Sales increase by one, now projecting average sales increase from 2 per week to 3 per week - increase item price by 1.11 to take advantage of recent upturn
15:23 - Competitor lists similar item for 0.99 at auction - increase item price by 0.03 to fund aggressive takeover of rival seller's stock
17:52 - Research algorithmic trends in leather purchases among the 18-27 year old generation Za sub-prime tinker-dwellers, reduce item price by 2.27
19:35 - Global leather sales quaterly figures arrive, increase item price by 0.65%
22:23 - realise I haven't eaten yet today and the coffee is wearing off, decide to end the day's trading until tomorrow
I'm clearing the stuff out of my closets so my hourly pay comes from my 9-5. I'm just trying to raise funds for a holiday somewhere a bit more exiting this year, you know, the Pyramids or something in a top grade hotel, something a bit more bucket-list than Disneyland.
Every time I sell an item, it's one step closer to breakfast included or three inches of legroom on the aeroplane.
I project my 6 leather items will be sold in a couple of weeks, then I can move on to the DVDs. The question is, do I price them by the popularity of the stars or by the age of the movie or likely distribution numbers or a combination of all three? With a potential difference of 8 cents depending on what parameters I choose I'm holding them back until I feel the market is just right.
I don't know about all that drinking before bidding malarky, my plan suggests the less I buy here, the more money I make, so I would view all that as a setback, drinking or no drinking.
10:35am - World of Leather announce they are coming to ebay - decrease item price by 0.67 cents in anticipation of reduced dmenad
12:15pm - Sales increase by one, now projecting average sales increase from 2 per week to 3 per week - increase item price by 1.11 to take advantage of recent upturn
15:23 - Competitor lists similar item for 0.99 at auction - increase item price by 0.03 to fund aggressive takeover of rival seller's stock
17:52 - Research algorithmic trends in leather purchases among the 18-27 year old generation Za sub-prime tinker-dwellers, reduce item price by 2.27
19:35 - Global leather sales quaterly figures arrive, increase item price by 0.65%
22:23 - realise I haven't eaten yet today and the coffee is wearing off, decide to end the day's trading until tomorrow
I'm clearing the stuff out of my closets so my hourly pay comes from my 9-5. I'm just trying to raise funds for a holiday somewhere a bit more exiting this year, you know, the Pyramids or something in a top grade hotel, something a bit more bucket-list than Disneyland.
Every time I sell an item, it's one step closer to breakfast included or three inches of legroom on the aeroplane.
I project my 6 leather items will be sold in a couple of weeks, then I can move on to the DVDs. The question is, do I price them by the popularity of the stars or by the age of the movie or likely distribution numbers or a combination of all three? With a potential difference of 8 cents depending on what parameters I choose I'm holding them back until I feel the market is just right.
I don't know about all that drinking before bidding malarky, my plan suggests the less I buy here, the more money I make, so I would view all that as a setback, drinking or no drinking.
I'm shecking really quick before I actually send these out tomorrow
most people here seem to be more help than eBay..
I just had the same person ship the same item 6 times (seperate orders).. They used a different shipping address for each order (to the United States). The person is from Thailand. They're also a pretty well established seller.
I've had people change addresses to send to a family member etc.. but 6 orders w/ different addresses all in a completely different country? I actually sent them a messaging inquiring if they're possibly gifts?
I actually thought they might be using me like a fulfilment center. They did not answer me regarding if these were gifts or not. I checked everything they're selling and it's all the same type of item.. Nothing remotely like what I carry.
I checked every single paypal transaction of the six. All state eligible for seller protection.. and all addresses state confirmed. Each address is in the U.S. each payment is from the same person though.. who per eBay, resides in Thailand.
Maybe they have another selling account? The second I saw these come accross w/ different shipping addresses I thought they were selling the same item for obviously a higher cost. They bought one earlier and I uploaded the tracking quickly.. 2 hours later they bought 5 more. Right, I get that now, at first I thought they were all the individual buyers' info with their individual names, I meant on the side of the person from Thailand entering the 6 individuals addresses and payment info; rather than just entering their own payment info and address, I was thinking the 2 were having to be linked to be paypal eligible.
To oaksriver: probably add it for this transaction, delete it afterwards, unless they really are family.
I just had the same person ship the same item 6 times (seperate orders).. They used a different shipping address for each order (to the United States). The person is from Thailand. They're also a pretty well established seller.
I've had people change addresses to send to a family member etc.. but 6 orders w/ different addresses all in a completely different country? I actually sent them a messaging inquiring if they're possibly gifts?
I actually thought they might be using me like a fulfilment center. They did not answer me regarding if these were gifts or not. I checked everything they're selling and it's all the same type of item.. Nothing remotely like what I carry.
I checked every single paypal transaction of the six. All state eligible for seller protection.. and all addresses state confirmed. Each address is in the U.S. each payment is from the same person though.. who per eBay, resides in Thailand.
Maybe they have another selling account? The second I saw these come accross w/ different shipping addresses I thought they were selling the same item for obviously a higher cost. They bought one earlier and I uploaded the tracking quickly.. 2 hours later they bought 5 more. Right, I get that now, at first I thought they were all the individual buyers' info with their individual names, I meant on the side of the person from Thailand entering the 6 individuals addresses and payment info; rather than just entering their own payment info and address, I was thinking the 2 were having to be linked to be paypal eligible.
To oaksriver: probably add it for this transaction, delete it afterwards, unless they really are family.
Montag, 28. April 2014
when there's quite a few sellers selling the same thing
yes i can see the newly listed might get searched first especially the bin's and they will get snatched up if they are cheap enough, some to cosumers other to flippers to flip for a profit.
Not easy to search thousands of identical items. people need to decide how they want to search, some inexperianced people might leave it on best match. others will search newly listed to try to be the first to see it. others will search cheapest first because they want the cheapest items. Some like me search highest first and page halfway down because we don't want to dig thru all the china sellers, broken items, etc to finally find the item in good usable shape on page 30, time is money to us, so we start at the other end and pay a little more just so we are not spending hours to save pennies. For Some time is worth more than cheapest price.
Then you have sellers that need just the right guy to come along to buy that particular item. Items can be listed for a long time but not everyone need that lab item or that exotic car part.
But if you are listing something like a cellphone or a shirt where there might be many looking but that item also falls in flooded categories so yes i can see it might seem like newly listed wins out.
Today I couldn't find most of the things I was looking for.
Typed in a couple of common keywords.
Zero results.
Another couple of common keywords.
Zero results.
Simplified it down to one common keyword to try to figure out what was happening.
Zero results.
After a few more tries, gave up.
Not easy to search thousands of identical items. people need to decide how they want to search, some inexperianced people might leave it on best match. others will search newly listed to try to be the first to see it. others will search cheapest first because they want the cheapest items. Some like me search highest first and page halfway down because we don't want to dig thru all the china sellers, broken items, etc to finally find the item in good usable shape on page 30, time is money to us, so we start at the other end and pay a little more just so we are not spending hours to save pennies. For Some time is worth more than cheapest price.
Then you have sellers that need just the right guy to come along to buy that particular item. Items can be listed for a long time but not everyone need that lab item or that exotic car part.
But if you are listing something like a cellphone or a shirt where there might be many looking but that item also falls in flooded categories so yes i can see it might seem like newly listed wins out.
Today I couldn't find most of the things I was looking for.
Typed in a couple of common keywords.
Zero results.
Another couple of common keywords.
Zero results.
Simplified it down to one common keyword to try to figure out what was happening.
Zero results.
After a few more tries, gave up.
How to grow Aerangis Orchids
The name Aerangis was coined from two Greek words, aer, air and angos, vessel, and was probably a reference to the nectariferous spur at the base of the lip. Plants allocated to this genus today are among the most attractive of the white-flowered vandaceous orchids of Africa and its adjacent islands, including Madagascar.
Many species of Aerangis were first described under the name Angraecum. It was in 1865 that H.G. Reichenbach proposed the genus Aerangis, separating it from Angraecum on account of the long slender rostellum that stretches forward from below the column apex, across the stigmatic surface, and by the long slender stipe that is located on the upper surface of this rostellum and supports the two pollinia.
A major contribution to the recognition of the genus was that of the German botanist Rudolf Schlechter. In 1914 he transferred some of the well-known Madagascar species from Angraecum to Aerangis and in 1918 made an important review of all the African angraecoid orchids that dealt with an additional 11 species of Aerangis. More species have been added to the genus since then. Some 51 species and a few natural hybrids are currently recognized.
Species most commonly found in cultivation include A. articulata, A. biloba, A. citrata, A. ellisii, A. fastuosa, A. luteo-alba with its variety rhodosticta and A. modesta.
Number of species: 51 (Currently the World Monocot Checklist recognizes 50 distinct species, 2 natural hybrids and several varietal forms - 9/2007).
Distribution: Africa and its adjacent islands, including Madagascar.
CULTURE:
Temperature: It is not difficult to grow any of the species of Aerangis but the plants are easily lost if growing conditions change adversely. The species from higher elevations need cooler conditions than those that occur at or near sea level, and those from near the Equator generally require warmer conditions and higher humidity than those that are found much further south at the same elevation. Details of the habitat, where known, often give an indication of the best way to manage the environment for plants in cultivation.
LIGHT:
Plants in cultivation need well-shaded conditions, similar to those enjoyed by Phalaenopsis species and hybrids.
WATER & HUMIDITY:
The most difficult thing to arrange, in cultivation, is the resting season that most species enjoy after flowering. If the plants are kept too dry, there is the danger that they will dry out too much and lose their leaves. If they are sprayed with too much cold water or too frequently, the plants will suffer, lose their leaves and die. Careful management of both the plants and their environment is the key to long-lived plants and the reward of many flowers every year.
FERTILIZER:
Plants need only weak liquid fertilizer, during the growing season when new roots and new leaves are produced.
POTTING:
All of the plants will grow well in pots of medium suitable for most other epiphytes; those with finer roots need a smaller particle size and
moister conditions than those with thicker roots. All species grow well as mounted plants, firmly attached to a piece of bark or cork. Mounted plants
should be suspended in deep shade, usually in high humidity. The flowers are naturally and elegantly displayed when the plants are grown like this.
Many species of Aerangis were first described under the name Angraecum. It was in 1865 that H.G. Reichenbach proposed the genus Aerangis, separating it from Angraecum on account of the long slender rostellum that stretches forward from below the column apex, across the stigmatic surface, and by the long slender stipe that is located on the upper surface of this rostellum and supports the two pollinia.
A major contribution to the recognition of the genus was that of the German botanist Rudolf Schlechter. In 1914 he transferred some of the well-known Madagascar species from Angraecum to Aerangis and in 1918 made an important review of all the African angraecoid orchids that dealt with an additional 11 species of Aerangis. More species have been added to the genus since then. Some 51 species and a few natural hybrids are currently recognized.
Species most commonly found in cultivation include A. articulata, A. biloba, A. citrata, A. ellisii, A. fastuosa, A. luteo-alba with its variety rhodosticta and A. modesta.
Number of species: 51 (Currently the World Monocot Checklist recognizes 50 distinct species, 2 natural hybrids and several varietal forms - 9/2007).
Distribution: Africa and its adjacent islands, including Madagascar.
CULTURE:
Temperature: It is not difficult to grow any of the species of Aerangis but the plants are easily lost if growing conditions change adversely. The species from higher elevations need cooler conditions than those that occur at or near sea level, and those from near the Equator generally require warmer conditions and higher humidity than those that are found much further south at the same elevation. Details of the habitat, where known, often give an indication of the best way to manage the environment for plants in cultivation.
LIGHT:
Plants in cultivation need well-shaded conditions, similar to those enjoyed by Phalaenopsis species and hybrids.
WATER & HUMIDITY:
The most difficult thing to arrange, in cultivation, is the resting season that most species enjoy after flowering. If the plants are kept too dry, there is the danger that they will dry out too much and lose their leaves. If they are sprayed with too much cold water or too frequently, the plants will suffer, lose their leaves and die. Careful management of both the plants and their environment is the key to long-lived plants and the reward of many flowers every year.
FERTILIZER:
Plants need only weak liquid fertilizer, during the growing season when new roots and new leaves are produced.
POTTING:
All of the plants will grow well in pots of medium suitable for most other epiphytes; those with finer roots need a smaller particle size and
moister conditions than those with thicker roots. All species grow well as mounted plants, firmly attached to a piece of bark or cork. Mounted plants
should be suspended in deep shade, usually in high humidity. The flowers are naturally and elegantly displayed when the plants are grown like this.
How to Grow Cattleya and Cattleya Alliance Orchids
Cattleyas are among the most popular orchids. Their culture is often used as the basis for comparison with other types of orchids. Cattleyas and their related hybrids come in many colors, shapes, forms and sizes. Culture varies only slightly among most of these. This sheet is a general guide to basic cattleya culture. Like many other cultivated orchids, cattleyas are epiphytes, or air plants. They have developed water-storage organs, called pseudobulbs, and have large, fleshy roots covered with a spongy, water-retentive velamen. They are accustomed to being dry at the roots between waterings, and therefore should be potted in freedraining media.
Light
is the most important factor in growing and flowering cattleyas, whether in a greenhouse or in the home. Bright light to some sun should be given to the plants, with no direct sun in the middle of the day. This means an east, shadedsouth (as with a sheer curtain) or west window in the home, and 50 to 70 percent full sun in a greenhouse (3,000 to 5,000 foot-candles). Leaves should be a mediumgreen color, pseudobulbs erect and requiring no staking
Tempture
should be 55 to 60 F at night and 70 to 85 F during the day. Seedlings should have night temperatures five to 10 degrees higher. A 15- to 20-degree differential between day and night is recommended, especially for mature plants. Higher day temperatures can be tolerated (up to 95 F), if humidity, air circulation and shading are increased.
Water
should be provided in two ways: in the pot by watering and in the air as humidity. Watering in the container is dictated by many criteria: size and type of the vessel, temperature, light, etc. Mature cattleyas need to dry out thoroughly before being watered again. Seedlings need more constant moisture. Compare the weight of a dry pot of the same size and type of mix; it can indicate if a plant needs water by the relative weight — light means dry, heavy means wet. If in doubt, it’s best to wait a day or two until watering. Plants in active growth need more water than plants that are resting. Water below 50 F may injure plants, as will water softened by the addition of salts.
Humidity
should be 50 to 80 percent for cattleyas. This can be provided in the home by placing the plants on trays of gravel, only partially filled with water so that the plants do not sit in the water. Air should always be moving around the plants to prevent fungal or bacterial disease, especially if high humidity or cool temperatures exist. In the greenhouse, the humidity is best increased by use of a humidifier. Evaporative cooling increases humidity while cooling the air.
Fertilizer
on a regular schedule. In fir bark, a high-nitrogen (such as 30-10-10) formulation, or a similar proportion, is used. Otherwise, use a balanced fertilizer. When in active growth, plants need fertilizer at least every two weeks, and when not actively growing, once a month. Fertilizer can also be applied with every watering at one-quarter the recommended dilution. Thorough flushing with clear water every month is recommended to prevent the buildup of fertilizer salts.
Potting
is necessary when the rhizome of the plants protrudes over the edge of the pot or the potting medium starts to break down and drain poorly (usually after two to three years). It is best to repot just before new roots sprout from the rhizome, after flowering or in the spring. Mature cattleyas are usually potted in coarser potting material than are seedlings. Until a plant has at least six mature pseudobulbs, it generally should be put into a larger pot and not divided. If dividing a plant, three to five pseudobulbs per division are required. Select a pot that will allow for approximately two years of growth before crowding the pot. Pile mix against one side of the pot and cut off any dead roots. Spread the firm, live roots over the pile, with the cut rhizome against the side of the pot. Fill the pot with medium, working it around the roots. Pack firmly and stake if necessary. Keep the plant humid, shaded and dry at the roots until new root growth is seen.
Light
is the most important factor in growing and flowering cattleyas, whether in a greenhouse or in the home. Bright light to some sun should be given to the plants, with no direct sun in the middle of the day. This means an east, shadedsouth (as with a sheer curtain) or west window in the home, and 50 to 70 percent full sun in a greenhouse (3,000 to 5,000 foot-candles). Leaves should be a mediumgreen color, pseudobulbs erect and requiring no staking
Tempture
should be 55 to 60 F at night and 70 to 85 F during the day. Seedlings should have night temperatures five to 10 degrees higher. A 15- to 20-degree differential between day and night is recommended, especially for mature plants. Higher day temperatures can be tolerated (up to 95 F), if humidity, air circulation and shading are increased.
Water
should be provided in two ways: in the pot by watering and in the air as humidity. Watering in the container is dictated by many criteria: size and type of the vessel, temperature, light, etc. Mature cattleyas need to dry out thoroughly before being watered again. Seedlings need more constant moisture. Compare the weight of a dry pot of the same size and type of mix; it can indicate if a plant needs water by the relative weight — light means dry, heavy means wet. If in doubt, it’s best to wait a day or two until watering. Plants in active growth need more water than plants that are resting. Water below 50 F may injure plants, as will water softened by the addition of salts.
Humidity
should be 50 to 80 percent for cattleyas. This can be provided in the home by placing the plants on trays of gravel, only partially filled with water so that the plants do not sit in the water. Air should always be moving around the plants to prevent fungal or bacterial disease, especially if high humidity or cool temperatures exist. In the greenhouse, the humidity is best increased by use of a humidifier. Evaporative cooling increases humidity while cooling the air.
Fertilizer
on a regular schedule. In fir bark, a high-nitrogen (such as 30-10-10) formulation, or a similar proportion, is used. Otherwise, use a balanced fertilizer. When in active growth, plants need fertilizer at least every two weeks, and when not actively growing, once a month. Fertilizer can also be applied with every watering at one-quarter the recommended dilution. Thorough flushing with clear water every month is recommended to prevent the buildup of fertilizer salts.
Potting
is necessary when the rhizome of the plants protrudes over the edge of the pot or the potting medium starts to break down and drain poorly (usually after two to three years). It is best to repot just before new roots sprout from the rhizome, after flowering or in the spring. Mature cattleyas are usually potted in coarser potting material than are seedlings. Until a plant has at least six mature pseudobulbs, it generally should be put into a larger pot and not divided. If dividing a plant, three to five pseudobulbs per division are required. Select a pot that will allow for approximately two years of growth before crowding the pot. Pile mix against one side of the pot and cut off any dead roots. Spread the firm, live roots over the pile, with the cut rhizome against the side of the pot. Fill the pot with medium, working it around the roots. Pack firmly and stake if necessary. Keep the plant humid, shaded and dry at the roots until new root growth is seen.
I have just reviewed my list of 13 suggestions
All of them were recommendations to add item specifics (which are filled in correctly) to the title as well. Now, correct me if I am wrong, but wasn't this new search engine supposed to be smart enough to incorporate item specifics into the logic and return related results?
Now sometimes I realize it is a good idea to do just that - however, this new suggestion engine hass me wondering if they have backed off some of the "smart" logic that was returning all kinds of craziness. And to compensate, perhaps they are trying to tell us to re-inject some wording that we had cut out of titles when they told us to shorten them?
One or two suggestions were helpful (ex.: I have the word "lavender" in the title and it suggested to add the word "purple". In the old days I would have done that anyway...
But most of the suggestions were stupid ones. I have drapery panels with exact size in the title "50 x 84," but it suggests I use item specific, which is a range of inches (40" - 61"). Now who is going to search on a random eBay-determined value?
I swear the executives have no clue that software developers cannot solve world peace. And it annoys me that they throw these random changes at us without saying anything, hoping we won't see through it. We are constantly trying to adjust to software changes, and then to the fixes, and then to the new things that the fixes broke. Could we just please have the old search back? It was fine with me.
Now sometimes I realize it is a good idea to do just that - however, this new suggestion engine hass me wondering if they have backed off some of the "smart" logic that was returning all kinds of craziness. And to compensate, perhaps they are trying to tell us to re-inject some wording that we had cut out of titles when they told us to shorten them?
One or two suggestions were helpful (ex.: I have the word "lavender" in the title and it suggested to add the word "purple". In the old days I would have done that anyway...
But most of the suggestions were stupid ones. I have drapery panels with exact size in the title "50 x 84," but it suggests I use item specific, which is a range of inches (40" - 61"). Now who is going to search on a random eBay-determined value?
I swear the executives have no clue that software developers cannot solve world peace. And it annoys me that they throw these random changes at us without saying anything, hoping we won't see through it. We are constantly trying to adjust to software changes, and then to the fixes, and then to the new things that the fixes broke. Could we just please have the old search back? It was fine with me.
How to tell GENUINE modernist James Parker of San Diego jewelry!
sterling and synthetic gemstone ring
San Diego California modernist James Parker made jewelry and enamel artwork from the 1950s through the 1970s. His pieces are entirely made by hand, and they are always unique one of a kind pieces, never made in multiples or cast. He used a lot of interesting and unusual stones including large synthetic faceted gemstones, along with sterling silver, copper, brass, and enamel.
copper enamel panel in wood frame
His enamel artwork is usually bold and strikingly modern, and each piece is entirely hand made and one of a kind.
Similar designs are possible, but not exact copies.
sterling ring with enamel
As you can see in the example at left his jewelry is bold yet simple in design with abstract and geometric elements, and his designs are never lightweight flimsy or floral inspired.
James Parker's mark on jewelry
This is the ONLY correct James Parker mark on jewelry, anything other than this mark is NOT by the mid century modernist silversmith James Parker of San Diego California. I've seen it once or twice without the words "Hand Made" or "Sterling", but the central conjoined JP mark with the outline around it is the ONLY correct James Parker mark on jewelry.
NOT James Parker
The ring at left is one of the designs that I've seen most often misidentified as by James Parker. There is no comparison to his genuine work above, and the mark, although a conjoined JP is NOT the mark shown above which is the only genuine James Parker hallmark on his jewelry. James Parker was a mid-century modernist NOT an Art Nouveau revivalist like this ring AND his jewelry was entirely handmade NOT mass produced and cast like this ring.
In conclusion...
Unfortunately, most of the jewelry that I've seen here on eBay identified as being by James Parker ISN'T. If the mark isn't the exact mark shown above it ISN'T his work. If it's lightweight airy or flimsy design, it's not by him. Especially if it's one of these mass produced Art Nouveau revivalist pieces, it's definitely NOT his work. His work was featured in the Mingei Museum exhibition, "San Diego's Craft Revolution" in 2011/2012, and the accompanying book which can still be purchased from the museum website also features the work of many other prominent San Diego artist craftsmen of the mid century period.
There are some pieces of James Parker's jewelry that were never marked. These were pieces that were found in his workshop after his death that he never sent out to galleries, and thus hadn't been marked yet. They are very much in the bold handmade modernist style shown in the examples above, and there are only a few of them and most of them are well-known pieces that are documented.
an unsigned ring
This ring by Parker was one of the pieces purchased from his estate that was never marked. This ring was in the exhibition "San Diego's Craft Revolution" and was pictured in the book that accompanied the exhibition.
San Diego California modernist James Parker made jewelry and enamel artwork from the 1950s through the 1970s. His pieces are entirely made by hand, and they are always unique one of a kind pieces, never made in multiples or cast. He used a lot of interesting and unusual stones including large synthetic faceted gemstones, along with sterling silver, copper, brass, and enamel.
copper enamel panel in wood frame
His enamel artwork is usually bold and strikingly modern, and each piece is entirely hand made and one of a kind.
Similar designs are possible, but not exact copies.
sterling ring with enamel
As you can see in the example at left his jewelry is bold yet simple in design with abstract and geometric elements, and his designs are never lightweight flimsy or floral inspired.
James Parker's mark on jewelry
This is the ONLY correct James Parker mark on jewelry, anything other than this mark is NOT by the mid century modernist silversmith James Parker of San Diego California. I've seen it once or twice without the words "Hand Made" or "Sterling", but the central conjoined JP mark with the outline around it is the ONLY correct James Parker mark on jewelry.
NOT James Parker
The ring at left is one of the designs that I've seen most often misidentified as by James Parker. There is no comparison to his genuine work above, and the mark, although a conjoined JP is NOT the mark shown above which is the only genuine James Parker hallmark on his jewelry. James Parker was a mid-century modernist NOT an Art Nouveau revivalist like this ring AND his jewelry was entirely handmade NOT mass produced and cast like this ring.
In conclusion...
Unfortunately, most of the jewelry that I've seen here on eBay identified as being by James Parker ISN'T. If the mark isn't the exact mark shown above it ISN'T his work. If it's lightweight airy or flimsy design, it's not by him. Especially if it's one of these mass produced Art Nouveau revivalist pieces, it's definitely NOT his work. His work was featured in the Mingei Museum exhibition, "San Diego's Craft Revolution" in 2011/2012, and the accompanying book which can still be purchased from the museum website also features the work of many other prominent San Diego artist craftsmen of the mid century period.
There are some pieces of James Parker's jewelry that were never marked. These were pieces that were found in his workshop after his death that he never sent out to galleries, and thus hadn't been marked yet. They are very much in the bold handmade modernist style shown in the examples above, and there are only a few of them and most of them are well-known pieces that are documented.
an unsigned ring
This ring by Parker was one of the pieces purchased from his estate that was never marked. This ring was in the exhibition "San Diego's Craft Revolution" and was pictured in the book that accompanied the exhibition.
I am pretty much dead last on every item I'm selling
Many of my items are extremely simple.. i.e. if it's a video game it's typically the name of the game + system + new and sealed.
As I've mentioned in the original post.. my success has often been through a little toying w/ GTC. Essentially I play w/ my cost.. typically start out low.. People buy. I slowly creap up the price, move it around every once in a while until I get a good number where I make a couple sales a day.
That being said.. new sealed items.. We're all selling the same thing. For me to have 90+ watcher and 90+ sold, offer 14 day returns, top seller, 99.8 feedback etc.. etc.. and be ranked virtually dead last makes no sense. Unless they're a glitch in the system.. I mean they did have to increese my limit over and over and over. I was actually ending other listings because I didn't want my GTC listing w/ major quantity to go sold out and lose watch count/#sold.
Ever since that limit was changed.. I'm selling at about 1/10 my previous rate..
As per your theory on titles/descriptions.. note that I mentioned I opened a brand new account, listed an item identically in every manner (obviously minus top seller etc..) and actually ranked way higher even after not being "newly listed".
So I've pretty much singled this out to be specific to my account. The timing is basically spot on the account limit increase. my selling limits went from whatever the base is to $45k in 2 months. It got a little hectic.. which is why I'm not to angry about the almost a week long break.. but it's time to pick back up here..
Now CSR said they'll call back in 72hrs.. they may.. they may not.. But that was essentially what was stated. I was transfered around to about 4 ppl. What they can do? Probably nothing. Being a programmer I understand the internals.. and no CSR can help me. Unless there is some major error in my account. Maybe since I grew so quickly they see me as a risk? Seems stupid.. but I suppose it's possible. Hopefully my issue gets passed onto someting who can view whatever data is eximined by their algorithm and just verify nothing is signifiantly wrong. I'm focusing specifically on my account. it's not this accont.. this is an account for items to light or not worth enough to ship w/ tracking.. and/or purchasing. eBay even confirmed that it didn't make sense given at least what they could visually interpret in 10 minutes or so.
example.. I just searched for a game I'm selling.. this is my default search test.. because I was best match #1 for a month (if you selected new and buy it now).
now I'm 115 out of 123.
Top Seller (1day & 14 day return)
Fast and Free
99.8% Feedback
93 Watchers
98 Sold
the mere watch count and # sold should skyrocket me to the top.. I just don't get it. I'd love to see the actual code for how they utilize the seller account for best ranking.
As I've mentioned in the original post.. my success has often been through a little toying w/ GTC. Essentially I play w/ my cost.. typically start out low.. People buy. I slowly creap up the price, move it around every once in a while until I get a good number where I make a couple sales a day.
That being said.. new sealed items.. We're all selling the same thing. For me to have 90+ watcher and 90+ sold, offer 14 day returns, top seller, 99.8 feedback etc.. etc.. and be ranked virtually dead last makes no sense. Unless they're a glitch in the system.. I mean they did have to increese my limit over and over and over. I was actually ending other listings because I didn't want my GTC listing w/ major quantity to go sold out and lose watch count/#sold.
Ever since that limit was changed.. I'm selling at about 1/10 my previous rate..
As per your theory on titles/descriptions.. note that I mentioned I opened a brand new account, listed an item identically in every manner (obviously minus top seller etc..) and actually ranked way higher even after not being "newly listed".
So I've pretty much singled this out to be specific to my account. The timing is basically spot on the account limit increase. my selling limits went from whatever the base is to $45k in 2 months. It got a little hectic.. which is why I'm not to angry about the almost a week long break.. but it's time to pick back up here..
Now CSR said they'll call back in 72hrs.. they may.. they may not.. But that was essentially what was stated. I was transfered around to about 4 ppl. What they can do? Probably nothing. Being a programmer I understand the internals.. and no CSR can help me. Unless there is some major error in my account. Maybe since I grew so quickly they see me as a risk? Seems stupid.. but I suppose it's possible. Hopefully my issue gets passed onto someting who can view whatever data is eximined by their algorithm and just verify nothing is signifiantly wrong. I'm focusing specifically on my account. it's not this accont.. this is an account for items to light or not worth enough to ship w/ tracking.. and/or purchasing. eBay even confirmed that it didn't make sense given at least what they could visually interpret in 10 minutes or so.
example.. I just searched for a game I'm selling.. this is my default search test.. because I was best match #1 for a month (if you selected new and buy it now).
now I'm 115 out of 123.
Top Seller (1day & 14 day return)
Fast and Free
99.8% Feedback
93 Watchers
98 Sold
the mere watch count and # sold should skyrocket me to the top.. I just don't get it. I'd love to see the actual code for how they utilize the seller account for best ranking.
I listed an item as a buy it now on Friday. A couple hours later I received and offer
Before I could respond to it someone bought it. I just received an email from that person saying they can not pay until May 31st. The person who put the offer in also emailed me saying if the buyer doesn't pay that they would want to pay in full asap. Should I just request to cancel this transaction? Open a case? Let them do this? What would you do? If I can get things to move asap I want to I do not want to sit on this.
I would immediately put BOTH ids on your blocked bidder list and after 2 days file Unpaid Item Dispute on buyer and close it the first chance you get. I would also report the buyer for Unreasonable demands to ebay.
The first one is trying to negotiate and most likely would continue to do so after they get the item. Also the fact that they offer to buy it just in case the other buyer doesn't pay for it, kind of like they know the buyer might not pay.
I would normally let a buyer delay payment if they let me know, but over a month is just ridiculous. It's more like they want the item off ebay for a time period. Most likely so they can sell theirs.
I would immediately put BOTH ids on your blocked bidder list and after 2 days file Unpaid Item Dispute on buyer and close it the first chance you get. I would also report the buyer for Unreasonable demands to ebay.
The first one is trying to negotiate and most likely would continue to do so after they get the item. Also the fact that they offer to buy it just in case the other buyer doesn't pay for it, kind of like they know the buyer might not pay.
I would normally let a buyer delay payment if they let me know, but over a month is just ridiculous. It's more like they want the item off ebay for a time period. Most likely so they can sell theirs.
Buying and selling autographs
When buying and/or selling autographs, especially on eBay, you need to have your autographs authenticated. I've been buying and selling autographs for years and it is the only way I feel safe about buying them. In addition, when you go to sell autographs, customers will have full confidence that what they're getting are authentic. Not to mention that you WILL get top dollar for them. If you don't get your autographs authenticated, think about how many potential customers/bidders you are losing.
Not all authenticators are legit, there are two main authenticators at this moment that are 100% legit. The first is James Spence (JSA) and the other is PSA/DNA. If you get your autographs authenticated by one of these to places, you're golden and will never be challenged.
It's worth the time and money to get this done. Sometimes on ebay you'll see a seller that says "guaranteed" to pass any authenticator. If that's the case, then why didn't they get them authenticated themselves? Let the buyer beware. If it looks to be to be true, then it usually is.
Use common sense also when buying autographs. Look at the commissioner that's on the baseball to see if it's even possible for the player to have signed it. Look at the writing implement. They didn't have Sharpies many decades ago. Be wary of team signed baseballs from back in the 50's, 60's & '70's that may have had a lot of "clubhouse" signers. A clubhouse signer is usually someone who works for the club like an equipment manager or a bat boy that would sign an autograph for a player. Mickey Mantle was famous for having a clubhouse signer for him on team baseballs.
Not all authenticators are legit, there are two main authenticators at this moment that are 100% legit. The first is James Spence (JSA) and the other is PSA/DNA. If you get your autographs authenticated by one of these to places, you're golden and will never be challenged.
It's worth the time and money to get this done. Sometimes on ebay you'll see a seller that says "guaranteed" to pass any authenticator. If that's the case, then why didn't they get them authenticated themselves? Let the buyer beware. If it looks to be to be true, then it usually is.
Use common sense also when buying autographs. Look at the commissioner that's on the baseball to see if it's even possible for the player to have signed it. Look at the writing implement. They didn't have Sharpies many decades ago. Be wary of team signed baseballs from back in the 50's, 60's & '70's that may have had a lot of "clubhouse" signers. A clubhouse signer is usually someone who works for the club like an equipment manager or a bat boy that would sign an autograph for a player. Mickey Mantle was famous for having a clubhouse signer for him on team baseballs.
A current article in ecommercebytes discusses new promotion eBay offering to selected sellers
he link I gave has the running time of the promotion down to the seconds. It ends at the end of the second quarter financial reports. That may be quite important timing.
I surely would like to know how this big step -- halving of FVFs -- came about and who suggested the idea to the big guns. Or was it a big gun who just looked at the numbers and said, YIKES! We have to do something here.
In a post from late last year, I remember that I asked the question "what more could eBay do to encourage sellers to list after they've offered one million free listings? What's next? Discounts on FVFs was one of my guesses . They're having to get creative since they've given away so many free listings that many sellers won't list here unless its free. But discounts on FVFs is a slippery slope.
I have no idea how many sellers the promotion was offered to, so please post if you have gotten an invitation. There are a number of restrictions on the offer so please check the link for info.
Here's a part of the info I thought was interesting. This sounds odd to me. Sounds like a lot of checking if you got credited for half of the FVFs. And will the FVFs count as FULL FVFs in the quarterly report?
I find it interesting that any new listings (speaking from personal experience) seem to get a boost for a couple of days, and then fall into the eBay black hole, but are resurrected again the last couple of days before they end.
It's also interesting that there will be weeks without a sale, and then all of a sudden, there are sales several days in a row.
I don't believe in that many coincidences.
Will check out topaze.
I surely would like to know how this big step -- halving of FVFs -- came about and who suggested the idea to the big guns. Or was it a big gun who just looked at the numbers and said, YIKES! We have to do something here.
In a post from late last year, I remember that I asked the question "what more could eBay do to encourage sellers to list after they've offered one million free listings? What's next? Discounts on FVFs was one of my guesses . They're having to get creative since they've given away so many free listings that many sellers won't list here unless its free. But discounts on FVFs is a slippery slope.
I have no idea how many sellers the promotion was offered to, so please post if you have gotten an invitation. There are a number of restrictions on the offer so please check the link for info.
Here's a part of the info I thought was interesting. This sounds odd to me. Sounds like a lot of checking if you got credited for half of the FVFs. And will the FVFs count as FULL FVFs in the quarterly report?
I find it interesting that any new listings (speaking from personal experience) seem to get a boost for a couple of days, and then fall into the eBay black hole, but are resurrected again the last couple of days before they end.
It's also interesting that there will be weeks without a sale, and then all of a sudden, there are sales several days in a row.
I don't believe in that many coincidences.
Will check out topaze.
Well something happened to my post, so here it is again
I have been shipping through Ebay's Fedex option but I am tired of the hidden fees and dimensional weight adjustments that get tacked on and end up making the so-called discount FAR from a discount many times. I do have a true Fedex account... I heard there is a way to link my Fedex account to Ebay's shipping process, how do I navigate to do this?
Also, can anyone tell me if there is a way to pay your Fedex fees on your own time and not have Fedex randomly charge my bank account/card for shipping fees? That got me into several overdraft situations a couple years ago. I'd ship a few items and the charges would hit my bank sometimes five days later, sometimes two or more weeks later. I never knew how many shipping transactions would hit or when, and sometimes I'd be just a few dollars short of covering it all and get hit with overdrafts. Is there a way to set up your account to pay your fees by a certain date of simply let fees pile up and make payments as you like?Well something happened to my post, so here it is again, or now there will be two of them.
Linking your account will get you the eBay discounts on the FedEx website. Also you will be billed directly by FedEx with what ever arrangement have with them. Plus you also deal directly with them for any problems.
If you ship FedEx regularly take a look at Ship Rush for FedEx eCommerce. It has a lot more features including direct import of buyer addresses from eBay/PayPal, etc., as well at label printer support and other options.
To link your FedEx account:
Go to the link below and click on Get Started towards the bottom. It will ask for you to login with your eBay ID and then if you want to use an existing FedEx account number.
Also, can anyone tell me if there is a way to pay your Fedex fees on your own time and not have Fedex randomly charge my bank account/card for shipping fees? That got me into several overdraft situations a couple years ago. I'd ship a few items and the charges would hit my bank sometimes five days later, sometimes two or more weeks later. I never knew how many shipping transactions would hit or when, and sometimes I'd be just a few dollars short of covering it all and get hit with overdrafts. Is there a way to set up your account to pay your fees by a certain date of simply let fees pile up and make payments as you like?Well something happened to my post, so here it is again, or now there will be two of them.
Linking your account will get you the eBay discounts on the FedEx website. Also you will be billed directly by FedEx with what ever arrangement have with them. Plus you also deal directly with them for any problems.
If you ship FedEx regularly take a look at Ship Rush for FedEx eCommerce. It has a lot more features including direct import of buyer addresses from eBay/PayPal, etc., as well at label printer support and other options.
To link your FedEx account:
Go to the link below and click on Get Started towards the bottom. It will ask for you to login with your eBay ID and then if you want to use an existing FedEx account number.
How Buy Makeup Online: Staying Safe and Healthy
I have bought and sold makeup online, and have a background in healthcare and make up artistry.
I have also had some GOOD and BAD experiences with online sellers. Here are some basic health and safety guidelines for the various types of beauty and skin care items founds for sale online...
TESTERS: First understand that "TESTERS" are from stores or direct sales companies and may be fine and safe to purchase. Understand they are not the product packaged in a manner to protect the consumer (YOU!) This can lead to problems as some "TESTER" items may have been contaminated either by accident or by actual swatching / testing on skin, which is as we know, is covered with germs, bacteria and so forth.
I have had good experiences and some bad with "TESTERS". For example, after receiving what I thought was a "new lipstick", I found that the packaging did not match what I saw in the picture in listing, or on the website of the manufacturer. Instead of a being sealed, and having a full cap, It sort of had a half cap, and had had no package or any seal, that was my OMG moment, that I had paid for a "TESTER" not a REAL, NEW lipstick. Testers are available to those who work in the makeup industry. The seller may have good intentions but the truth is, there is no guarantee that what you receive will be safe, unused (it is easy to cut off use marks) or been touched by many dirty fingers. That is unless the seller can vouch for the TESTER with actual pictures, and the story behind it, and perhaps offer to sell only sealed, unused TESTERS or some guarantee of the sanitization process used to protect the buyer.
Testers may carry germs (of course you can't see them and it all looks good) until there is a breakout, pink eye (that is just one of the eye infections that come from contaminated items) or a rash that is bacterial related.
If something about the product picture looks "off" or "just not right" send the Seller some specific questions so you know if you are buying a "TESTER" version of a product. "Testers" may be a great buy, unless has been contaminated. Than it is or can be a host / medium for bacteria (germ) growth.
Used or Gently Used Makeup or Skin Care Products: If you were at Starbucks and the person next to you had a delish (fill in the blank) an you have always wanted to try it, REALLY wanted to just see what it was like. They see you admiring the (fill in the blank) and then sneeze into it, maybe twice, and also cough all over it (no they did not cover their mouth) and they are offering it to you to try, also while putting their fingers into the contents of the container to hand it to you... at a really good price, free or in the case of "used makeup" or "skin care products" at really discounted prices...so tempting....
99% of us would be polite and say thank you but, NO THANK YOU.
Buying used makeup, gently used, used, half or partially full or otherwise is taking serious risk.
That risk is applying or ingesting, via the used makeup or skin care product: BACTERIA, VIRUS, FUNGAL, PARASITES (that would be teeny tiny worms) and other dangerous particulate matter. These can make you very ill, cause an infection or at the minimum cause a dermatitis (rash) that will require antibiotics and a doctor visit.
Buying previously USED makeup and or skin care products is a roll of the dice as you can see from the info above.
The one exception I can think of, to the above warnings, is If it the Seller is an obsessively/compulsively hygienic consious makeup artist who knows how to, and has the industry solutions, to spray on makeup (hospital grade stuff) to "clean" or "sanitize" makeup, before using it on the next client (excellent hygiene is a sign of a great makeup artist, usually they do not even touch the makeup, using tools to put it on a palette for each client, and then a disposable applicator or different brushes for each client so there is NO contamination.
The problem is most used makeup is not sold by obsessively hygienic makeup artists who have PROPERLY sanitized everything.
You are most likely looking at used makeup from a busy seller, who does not sanitize makeup, and may be selling makeup that could be teaming with contagions.
With MRSA, VME and other antibiotic resistant strains of bacteria, and viruses that love to grow in makeup, I would pass on and say NO to most "used make up" or "skin care" products.
Especially as many people keep or take their makeup into the bathroom / toilet area where e.coli (yes it is gross to think about, however an issue, especially if your seller is not a big hand washer...what can I say.)
You have to make the decision, is it worth the risk of getting sick, and the doc bills that will follow???
At least buying from listings that ensure make up and skin care is new / sealed, you know you have the quality controls of that company, which you can research, protecting you.
Sample Sizes: If it is sealed, and new in packaging that has not been tampered with, you can pretty much trust you will not be risking an contamination issues.
The one thing to think about is the PRICE of the sample compared to the actual price per ounce (or full size) and is that worth it. That is where a little research may help a great deal. Makeup Stores and many Dept. Store counters are starting to "get it" --- we want to try before we buy. Why pay for something someone else got for free, when you can also. Finally, if all else fails, and for some reason you cannot get a free sample, look for a reputable seller when dealing with these teeny tiny amounts of product.
Perfume and Fragrance: We all know that we should NOT store our fragrances in direct light, on top of a counter, or anywhere light can get to it and break down the smell we love so much. Does your seller know that? Where was what you are looking at stored? It is a small thing, and the bottle may look perfect, but if it has been in direct sunlight for months on end, you will probably notice that the smell is not what you expected. So ask the seller!
Used or Vintage Fragrance: Again, where was it stored? I would be a little less concerned about contamination due to the alcohol content of many fragrances, which will generally keep it sanitary to some extent. However, if there is no "spray" mechanism, that increases the likelihood that the seller or others have touched (contaminated) the opening of the bottle. Is it going to harbor germs and bacteria like makeup can? Perhaps especially if it is a scented oil based product, that then forms a medium (place for germs to grow) on the neck of the bottle. Ask questions of the seller, find out as much as you can, and then make the decision to buy or not.
I have also had some GOOD and BAD experiences with online sellers. Here are some basic health and safety guidelines for the various types of beauty and skin care items founds for sale online...
TESTERS: First understand that "TESTERS" are from stores or direct sales companies and may be fine and safe to purchase. Understand they are not the product packaged in a manner to protect the consumer (YOU!) This can lead to problems as some "TESTER" items may have been contaminated either by accident or by actual swatching / testing on skin, which is as we know, is covered with germs, bacteria and so forth.
I have had good experiences and some bad with "TESTERS". For example, after receiving what I thought was a "new lipstick", I found that the packaging did not match what I saw in the picture in listing, or on the website of the manufacturer. Instead of a being sealed, and having a full cap, It sort of had a half cap, and had had no package or any seal, that was my OMG moment, that I had paid for a "TESTER" not a REAL, NEW lipstick. Testers are available to those who work in the makeup industry. The seller may have good intentions but the truth is, there is no guarantee that what you receive will be safe, unused (it is easy to cut off use marks) or been touched by many dirty fingers. That is unless the seller can vouch for the TESTER with actual pictures, and the story behind it, and perhaps offer to sell only sealed, unused TESTERS or some guarantee of the sanitization process used to protect the buyer.
Testers may carry germs (of course you can't see them and it all looks good) until there is a breakout, pink eye (that is just one of the eye infections that come from contaminated items) or a rash that is bacterial related.
If something about the product picture looks "off" or "just not right" send the Seller some specific questions so you know if you are buying a "TESTER" version of a product. "Testers" may be a great buy, unless has been contaminated. Than it is or can be a host / medium for bacteria (germ) growth.
Used or Gently Used Makeup or Skin Care Products: If you were at Starbucks and the person next to you had a delish (fill in the blank) an you have always wanted to try it, REALLY wanted to just see what it was like. They see you admiring the (fill in the blank) and then sneeze into it, maybe twice, and also cough all over it (no they did not cover their mouth) and they are offering it to you to try, also while putting their fingers into the contents of the container to hand it to you... at a really good price, free or in the case of "used makeup" or "skin care products" at really discounted prices...so tempting....
99% of us would be polite and say thank you but, NO THANK YOU.
Buying used makeup, gently used, used, half or partially full or otherwise is taking serious risk.
That risk is applying or ingesting, via the used makeup or skin care product: BACTERIA, VIRUS, FUNGAL, PARASITES (that would be teeny tiny worms) and other dangerous particulate matter. These can make you very ill, cause an infection or at the minimum cause a dermatitis (rash) that will require antibiotics and a doctor visit.
Buying previously USED makeup and or skin care products is a roll of the dice as you can see from the info above.
The one exception I can think of, to the above warnings, is If it the Seller is an obsessively/compulsively hygienic consious makeup artist who knows how to, and has the industry solutions, to spray on makeup (hospital grade stuff) to "clean" or "sanitize" makeup, before using it on the next client (excellent hygiene is a sign of a great makeup artist, usually they do not even touch the makeup, using tools to put it on a palette for each client, and then a disposable applicator or different brushes for each client so there is NO contamination.
The problem is most used makeup is not sold by obsessively hygienic makeup artists who have PROPERLY sanitized everything.
You are most likely looking at used makeup from a busy seller, who does not sanitize makeup, and may be selling makeup that could be teaming with contagions.
With MRSA, VME and other antibiotic resistant strains of bacteria, and viruses that love to grow in makeup, I would pass on and say NO to most "used make up" or "skin care" products.
Especially as many people keep or take their makeup into the bathroom / toilet area where e.coli (yes it is gross to think about, however an issue, especially if your seller is not a big hand washer...what can I say.)
You have to make the decision, is it worth the risk of getting sick, and the doc bills that will follow???
At least buying from listings that ensure make up and skin care is new / sealed, you know you have the quality controls of that company, which you can research, protecting you.
Sample Sizes: If it is sealed, and new in packaging that has not been tampered with, you can pretty much trust you will not be risking an contamination issues.
The one thing to think about is the PRICE of the sample compared to the actual price per ounce (or full size) and is that worth it. That is where a little research may help a great deal. Makeup Stores and many Dept. Store counters are starting to "get it" --- we want to try before we buy. Why pay for something someone else got for free, when you can also. Finally, if all else fails, and for some reason you cannot get a free sample, look for a reputable seller when dealing with these teeny tiny amounts of product.
Perfume and Fragrance: We all know that we should NOT store our fragrances in direct light, on top of a counter, or anywhere light can get to it and break down the smell we love so much. Does your seller know that? Where was what you are looking at stored? It is a small thing, and the bottle may look perfect, but if it has been in direct sunlight for months on end, you will probably notice that the smell is not what you expected. So ask the seller!
Used or Vintage Fragrance: Again, where was it stored? I would be a little less concerned about contamination due to the alcohol content of many fragrances, which will generally keep it sanitary to some extent. However, if there is no "spray" mechanism, that increases the likelihood that the seller or others have touched (contaminated) the opening of the bottle. Is it going to harbor germs and bacteria like makeup can? Perhaps especially if it is a scented oil based product, that then forms a medium (place for germs to grow) on the neck of the bottle. Ask questions of the seller, find out as much as you can, and then make the decision to buy or not.
I had a few cancellation requests from my customer
not a problem at all. This can happen, I will immediately initiate a cancellation at the resolution center, clicking on "buyer changed mind". I also refund the whole amount via PayPal.
I just discovered that all 4 cancellations are hold against my performance rating under "Canceled transactions (out of stock or sold to someone else)".
What happen if the buyer neglect to accept the cancellation (he already received the refund...)?
Is there a better way, maybe let a buyer cancel a transaction?
Thank you for your help - walter.The only way a transaction can be canceled is by the seller sending the buyer a request to cancel. Canceled transactions where the buyer asked that the transaction be canceled should not count against the seller as long as the seller notes on the request that the buyer requested to cancel. But....I also have a defect where the buyer asked to cancel and it is counted against me. I don't know...... seems unfair to me.
I just discovered that all 4 cancellations are hold against my performance rating under "Canceled transactions (out of stock or sold to someone else)".
What happen if the buyer neglect to accept the cancellation (he already received the refund...)?
Is there a better way, maybe let a buyer cancel a transaction?
Thank you for your help - walter.The only way a transaction can be canceled is by the seller sending the buyer a request to cancel. Canceled transactions where the buyer asked that the transaction be canceled should not count against the seller as long as the seller notes on the request that the buyer requested to cancel. But....I also have a defect where the buyer asked to cancel and it is counted against me. I don't know...... seems unfair to me.
are you enrolled in GSP? because with GSP no combined shipping
I set up combined shipping discounts for International buyers, but one potential buyer messaged me today that she cannot put two separate pattern books from my BIN listings in her cart -- she is told immediate payment required (separately) for each.
I don't want immediate payment for a number a number of reasons -- I want to encourage people to buy more patterns at one time, rather than singly. I don't want a bunch of PayPal payments rather than one in which the fees would be lower. And now I certainly don't want to send partial refunds for combined shipping as I used to do, because it appears that will be courting a defect.
In this case I can certainly make her a reserved listing with the appropriate shipping, but is there any way to fix this so buyers can actually get the discount I have built into the BIN listings? I wasn't aware that I required immediate payment on any of my listings... I allow customers to combine for a week. Yes, I have seen the immediate payment message eBay keeps saying it is going to institute and I have been trying to figure out how to have a fair shipping policy for international buyers. Looks like it already is.... With light-weight items combining is never very much more than the initial package, and as I said, I would rather encourage multiuple sales.
Right, no cart showing on the UK site.
I would love to have a cart for UK & Australia as well as my international buyers are primarliy from the UK, Australia & Canada.
I just discovered I cannot revise from the UK site....
Can I enable the cart process for those countries somehow?
You can sign in on any of the other eBay sites, but you can only revise your listing in the site where the listing was created. Just tell your buyers to sign in on eBay.com or instruct them in your Description.
The cart should work on the Canadian site (eBay.ca) even though you listed on eBay.com, but for every other site, buyers have to shop on .com.
I don't want immediate payment for a number a number of reasons -- I want to encourage people to buy more patterns at one time, rather than singly. I don't want a bunch of PayPal payments rather than one in which the fees would be lower. And now I certainly don't want to send partial refunds for combined shipping as I used to do, because it appears that will be courting a defect.
In this case I can certainly make her a reserved listing with the appropriate shipping, but is there any way to fix this so buyers can actually get the discount I have built into the BIN listings? I wasn't aware that I required immediate payment on any of my listings... I allow customers to combine for a week. Yes, I have seen the immediate payment message eBay keeps saying it is going to institute and I have been trying to figure out how to have a fair shipping policy for international buyers. Looks like it already is.... With light-weight items combining is never very much more than the initial package, and as I said, I would rather encourage multiuple sales.
Right, no cart showing on the UK site.
I would love to have a cart for UK & Australia as well as my international buyers are primarliy from the UK, Australia & Canada.
I just discovered I cannot revise from the UK site....
Can I enable the cart process for those countries somehow?
You can sign in on any of the other eBay sites, but you can only revise your listing in the site where the listing was created. Just tell your buyers to sign in on eBay.com or instruct them in your Description.
The cart should work on the Canadian site (eBay.ca) even though you listed on eBay.com, but for every other site, buyers have to shop on .com.
It is a scam - do not under any circumstances deal with this person
A buyer wants me to sell an item before my bid is up and has told me they already sent me the payment and to ship immediately. i googled the address which does not seem to exist and searching for both the receiver of the package and the person buying and both do not seem to exist. The buyer has a Russian webmail account and is stated to live in Amercia on Ebay with no items for sale and their profile was created the day they contacted me. My items does not have any bids or views on ebay and they are not emailing me on ebay and want to only contat them via my personal email. They told me to ship and send them the shipping verification and i received emails from paypalservice but the email accounts do not look like my regular emails from paypal. the emails are addressed from paypal696@yahoo.com and not the normal paypal@.e.paypal.com email account that sendsemails out. The emails look very similar to nigerian emails i googled and sound like the same situation. I can not see the payments in my paypal and ebay and paypal do not relfect the payments or waiting for shipping verification in order to receive my payment. i have another item for sale and it shows bids and the person intersted in buying and their history and everything seems right with that one but not this item.
Just had a new INR defect "appear" in our NEW report files today
didn't show up in THREE previous generations of the reports which I D/L and hold onto for comparisons...we all know the data they are pushing out is garbage anyway.
We have a 1 Day Handling Policy.
Actually, EBAY "Site Programming" should take the tracking data they ALREADY HAVE and "see" if the item has been delivered or is out for delivery BEFORE the buyer INR case is allowed to be opened.
If it says delivered no case is opened. If it says out for delivery no case is opened.
They ALREADY have the programming APIs from the various carriers they have us use to program it and they have the data.
This is NOT rocket science...they're just too darn lazy to program it.
I'm calling them tomorrow for four defects similar to the OPs. To have to go through that rigamarole and hope that you get a CS who won't just blow you off is outlandish. And the fact that ebay sets it up so that by asking "where is my item" a case is automatically and unintentionally opened makes the whole situation even more offensive. And as usual, I think their motive is deliberately and primarily aimed at the TRS program
Seems to me it would just be easier and more honest to simply end the TRS program instead of inventing more and more convoluted and Machiavellian methods of frustrating small sellers.
We have a 1 Day Handling Policy.
Actually, EBAY "Site Programming" should take the tracking data they ALREADY HAVE and "see" if the item has been delivered or is out for delivery BEFORE the buyer INR case is allowed to be opened.
If it says delivered no case is opened. If it says out for delivery no case is opened.
They ALREADY have the programming APIs from the various carriers they have us use to program it and they have the data.
This is NOT rocket science...they're just too darn lazy to program it.
I'm calling them tomorrow for four defects similar to the OPs. To have to go through that rigamarole and hope that you get a CS who won't just blow you off is outlandish. And the fact that ebay sets it up so that by asking "where is my item" a case is automatically and unintentionally opened makes the whole situation even more offensive. And as usual, I think their motive is deliberately and primarily aimed at the TRS program
Seems to me it would just be easier and more honest to simply end the TRS program instead of inventing more and more convoluted and Machiavellian methods of frustrating small sellers.
Just thought we needed a different subject line for a change
Got my first defect :smileysad:. Raving positive review, can't wait to buy from me again - but gave me a 3......go figure...Sigh. Well I'm sure that defect will be the first of many, it seems almost unavoidable. I don't know why, in any survey known to mankind, middle number is neutral - except for eBay land. Middle number is EVIL....
While I agree eBay is being stupid over this....
Ebay is NOT the only place a 3 is not good.... as a buyer most don't know this but ask any one where they give you a customer survey how the employees are treated if they get a 3...
My oldest works at a pizza place (they make it you take it home and cook it).... If the customers leave anything LESS than 5's down the row who ever was working that day gets a "talking" to many of them and then hours start to go down till you give up and quit...
Now currently he has a decent boss and could see through the video's that when their store got a few 3's in time waiting... that they were SLAMMED... 20 people waiting in line and the phone ringing off the hook.... they all seem to show up in clumps... but they still had to have the "official talk" because corperate jumps them.... I told my kid... hun welcome to life carp flows downstream and you are low man on the pole.
While I agree eBay is being stupid over this....
Ebay is NOT the only place a 3 is not good.... as a buyer most don't know this but ask any one where they give you a customer survey how the employees are treated if they get a 3...
My oldest works at a pizza place (they make it you take it home and cook it).... If the customers leave anything LESS than 5's down the row who ever was working that day gets a "talking" to many of them and then hours start to go down till you give up and quit...
Now currently he has a decent boss and could see through the video's that when their store got a few 3's in time waiting... that they were SLAMMED... 20 people waiting in line and the phone ringing off the hook.... they all seem to show up in clumps... but they still had to have the "official talk" because corperate jumps them.... I told my kid... hun welcome to life carp flows downstream and you are low man on the pole.
Sonntag, 27. April 2014
what does this "enhanced photo loader" look like? can you post a screen shot?
Obviously i dont make ebay enough money for they feel they should stick me in every god awful test they put out, each and every time making life for me here awful.
This enhanced photo loader is a nightmare and i cannot use it. Now sitting on phone and basically there telling me they have no way to take me out of this test. Took me almost a hour to do one listing with the photo glitches.
So, i cant use this, so how do i list???
Another week of selling nightmares on ebay.
OMG I am in the same boat. I have spent the entire day on this. And what is worse is that the link they provide that says "Tell us what you think" doesn't allow you to send in your feedback. So, if they are getting no complaints aobut this great new improved picture service there could be a reason why.Nothing really to show, classic and advanced are gone, poof. Just gone.
It says, TRY OUR NEW ENHANCE PHOTO LOADER.
Why they put the word "TRY" in there is beyond me, for your forced to use it because this is a Beta Test.
The thing is like someone designed this when they were drunk, photos dont load, there cut in half, it took me a hour to list one listing.
I am so ticked off and so tired of these half baked ideas they ruin my whole listing days.
All they had to do was repair the old ones.
This enhanced photo loader is a nightmare and i cannot use it. Now sitting on phone and basically there telling me they have no way to take me out of this test. Took me almost a hour to do one listing with the photo glitches.
So, i cant use this, so how do i list???
Another week of selling nightmares on ebay.
OMG I am in the same boat. I have spent the entire day on this. And what is worse is that the link they provide that says "Tell us what you think" doesn't allow you to send in your feedback. So, if they are getting no complaints aobut this great new improved picture service there could be a reason why.Nothing really to show, classic and advanced are gone, poof. Just gone.
It says, TRY OUR NEW ENHANCE PHOTO LOADER.
Why they put the word "TRY" in there is beyond me, for your forced to use it because this is a Beta Test.
The thing is like someone designed this when they were drunk, photos dont load, there cut in half, it took me a hour to list one listing.
I am so ticked off and so tired of these half baked ideas they ruin my whole listing days.
All they had to do was repair the old ones.
the few there are after the Jan USPS increases/changes
I would think the commercial plus shipping discounts (the few there are after the Jan USPS increases/changes), should kick in immediately.
20% TRS discounts don't show up until invoice time and remember all the hoops must be satisfied - 1 day handling, returns, etc.
I'm a bronzy TRS too, but it doesn't do much for me. very little I've been selling uses commercial plus shipping (regional box discount went away in Jan), I don't take returns on 99% of sales so only gvet about 50¢ per month discount, plain TRS gets not visible badge to possible boost buyer confidence, and based on views and STRs search ranking can't be better than non-TRS. If it goes away in Aug, I won't be missing much (but will have a vauge feeling of failure).
Don't mean to rain on your parade though. Congrats on TRS!
20% TRS discounts don't show up until invoice time and remember all the hoops must be satisfied - 1 day handling, returns, etc.
I'm a bronzy TRS too, but it doesn't do much for me. very little I've been selling uses commercial plus shipping (regional box discount went away in Jan), I don't take returns on 99% of sales so only gvet about 50¢ per month discount, plain TRS gets not visible badge to possible boost buyer confidence, and based on views and STRs search ranking can't be better than non-TRS. If it goes away in Aug, I won't be missing much (but will have a vauge feeling of failure).
Don't mean to rain on your parade though. Congrats on TRS!
I asked ebay to remove negative feedback and even provided them proof but still they refused
I'm a little confused about my items. I'm not getting any views at all and I wanted to try a different strategy before I listed the item again. All the items I have only get 2 views or slightly more. I have even had a computer listed and it only received 20 views. So, I'm asking you guys. I have this item. HOUSE MD THE COMPLETE SERIES which didn't sell at all. I listed below what other's were asking and still it hasn't sold. I saw two people list this item at 99 cents and it has sold for more than what my item was listed for at buy now price at 109.99. I have listed items at .99 cents and have lost before. My question is should I list this item at .99 cents and how do I know when an item is popular enough to list the item at .99 cents. I'm really leary of listing items for .99 cents because I've got burnt in the past on a item and I had to eat the shipping and ect. I wasn't a happy camper.
Your fb number as a seller is low, and only at 98.5. The one that appears to be a buyer asking you to ship to an alternate address Neg, could have been removed if that was the case.
You are selling in very flooded categories as well. Electronics and beauty supplies are HUGE categories. Don't know what else to tell you.
All else looks good. PHotos are good, are of actual qty for listing, taking returns, free shipping. No TOS garble.
If you can't afford to lose it, don't list it here.
Your fb number as a seller is low, and only at 98.5. The one that appears to be a buyer asking you to ship to an alternate address Neg, could have been removed if that was the case.
You are selling in very flooded categories as well. Electronics and beauty supplies are HUGE categories. Don't know what else to tell you.
All else looks good. PHotos are good, are of actual qty for listing, taking returns, free shipping. No TOS garble.
If you can't afford to lose it, don't list it here.
Why Radius Polepieces On Guitar Pickups?
Where sound and frequencies are an important issue to the player we'll request guitar pickups with adjustable pole pieces. The strings and neck have a radius and so should the guitars pickups. Consistency is important. Equal distance of strings to pickups gives equal volume and therefore a more consistent volume level for each note played. The results are more even frequencies, more consistent sound, better tone, less unwanted feedback, even volume, more responsive pick up control, better sustain and more clarity in the overall sound of an electric guitar. At Haywire Custom Guitars in the custom Shop we radius the strings to the pole pieces for a better overall sound. Info provided by: Haywire Custom Guitars
Haywire Custom Guitars has developed an 8-point "Gig-Ready guitar process
Haywire Custom Guitars has developed an 8-point "Gig-Ready guitar process that ensures all Haywire guitars are ready to rock from day one. With many years of development and guitar set-up experience, we pride ourselves in building you a guitar that is just right for you at prices way below market.
We offer a wide choice of body colors, hardware, pickups as well as super wide and fat guitar necks to thin and slim to make your guitar a true custom. Select from 21 fret, 22 fret or 24 fret guitar necks! At Haywire Custom Guitars, we're....
At Haywire Custom Shop We're..............
"Building satisfied players... one Haywire guitar at a time"
Point 1: 4-axis alignment of the guitars neck Each guitars neck is checked and adjusted to be sure it is true and straight to provide a proper alignment on all axis. This step promotes even action and allows for more accurate and easier guitar tuning, playing, and set-up in the following steps.
Point 2: Inspect and lube the guitars tuning gears
Before installing the guitars tuning gears, each one is checked thoroughly. Each tuning gear is adjusted so that there is no play in the mechanism. They are each lubricated to enable smooth and even movement so your guitar will tune accurately.
Point 3: Potting the guitars pickups
We dip the pickups in hot wax to reduce squeal and unwanted guitar feedback.
Point 4: Prep the guitars body
Upon installing the guitars electronic components, great care is taken to ensure that all wires are properly routed, spaced, and grounded to enhance years of trouble-free service with your guitar.
Point 5: Level and polish the frets
This step provides assurance that all of the guitars frets are level, eliminating any possibility of fret buzz due to unevenness.
Point 6: Radius the guitars strings
Most guitar necks have a contour over the top of the neck called the radius. We adjust the strings to make sure the height of each string follows the contour of the guitars neck radius.
Point 7: Adjusting the overall guitar string height and the action
Once we set the contour and radius of the guitars strings, it’s time to adjust the overall height of the strings from the top of the frets to the bottom of the guitars strings.
Point 8: Set the guitars intonation
This step is done twice. The intonation is set two times, with a 24 hour "seat-in" period in between, to allow the guitar to properly re-seat to the new adjustments
Haywire Custom Guitars has developed an 8-point "Gig-Ready guitar process
Haywire Custom Guitars has developed an 8-point "Gig-Ready guitar process that ensures all Haywire guitars are ready to rock from day one. With many years of development and guitar set-up experience, we pride ourselves in building you a guitar that is just right for you at prices way below market.
We offer a wide choice of body colors, hardware, pickups as well as super wide and fat guitar necks to thin and slim to make your guitar a true custom. Select from 21 fret, 22 fret or 24 fret guitar necks! At Haywire Custom Guitars, we're....
At Haywire Custom Shop We're..............
"Building satisfied players... one Haywire guitar at a time"
Point 1: 4-axis alignment of the guitars neck Each guitars neck is checked and adjusted to be sure it is true and straight to provide a proper alignment on all axis. This step promotes even action and allows for more accurate and easier guitar tuning, playing, and set-up in the following steps.
Point 2: Inspect and lube the guitars tuning gears
Before installing the guitars tuning gears, each one is checked thoroughly. Each tuning gear is adjusted so that there is no play in the mechanism. They are each lubricated to enable smooth and even movement so your guitar will tune accurately.
Point 3: Potting the guitars pickups
We dip the pickups in hot wax to reduce squeal and unwanted guitar feedback.
Point 4: Prep the guitars body
Upon installing the guitars electronic components, great care is taken to ensure that all wires are properly routed, spaced, and grounded to enhance years of trouble-free service with your guitar.
Point 5: Level and polish the frets
This step provides assurance that all of the guitars frets are level, eliminating any possibility of fret buzz due to unevenness.
Point 6: Radius the guitars strings
Most guitar necks have a contour over the top of the neck called the radius. We adjust the strings to make sure the height of each string follows the contour of the guitars neck radius.
Point 7: Adjusting the overall guitar string height and the action
Once we set the contour and radius of the guitars strings, it’s time to adjust the overall height of the strings from the top of the frets to the bottom of the guitars strings.
Point 8: Set the guitars intonation
This step is done twice. The intonation is set two times, with a 24 hour "seat-in" period in between, to allow the guitar to properly re-seat to the new adjustments
How To Straighten A Guitar Neck With An Adjustable Truss Rod
How To Straighten A Guitar Neck With An Adjustable Truss Rod
By Haywire Custom Guitars
Source: Haywire Custom Guitars Inc. In most cases, the neck of a guitar is adjustable. Although the wood is generally hard, dry and stiff it will still bend with string pressure and humidity or lack thereof. In our shop we have to deal with that issue on a daily basis. Inside the neck is a routed channel between the finger board and the neck shaft where a truss rod is placed to compensate for movement on the forward axis of the neck to add stability. The rod is steel and is adjustable. It runs the length of the guitar neck with an opening at one end allowing for adjustments. The truss rod both strengthens the neck and facilitates an adjustment called "relief" in the neck. A bowed or humped neck can be reversed with skillful manipulation by the adjuster-you.
All guitar necks are subject to great stress. This is sometimes the result of seasonal change, Other times when a neck could take on a slight bow or hump are from string changes with gauges higher than normally used. A guitar player will usually know a little about how to make some adjustments on his guitar. Some things he does however may contribute to a misaligned neck. Several of the "usual problems" seen are heavier gauge strings which increases the froward pressure, removing all of the strings at once and leaving guitars in a hot car. These actions will cause immediate negative pull and the will revert naturally back to where it started. However, if it does, there is a solution if you follow the procedure below for proper repositioning of a bowed neck. In our Custom shop this is the procedure we use.
First, loosen all the strings but you will not have to remove them. Push the loose strings to one side to gain access to neck adjuster. Remove cover, so neck adjuster is exposed. It's either an Allen screw or a hex nut. Look down the neck from the top where the tuners are located towards the bridge (similar to sighting a down the barrel of a gun) to see how much of a bow or hump the neck has in it.
It is recommended to use a Notched Straightedge to see how far out of alignment the neck really is. The notches are on both side of the tool. One side has cutouts for a 24-3/4" scale neck and the other is for the most common 25-1/2" scale. They are there so frets can be avoided when the tool comes in contact with the fret board. The frets fit neatly in the cut out and the straight edge will show any problems when it lies straight on the fret board.
At this point, if it is discovered that the neck is out of adjustment, it's time to go to work. Insert the Allen key or hex wrench in the Allen slot or on the adjustment nut and turn very gently in small increments at a time. Checking the neck as you proceed with each nut turn is required. Once the neck is straight keep adjusting a bit more to compensate for the tension the stings will add once they are re-tuned to pitch. Turn right or clockwise for " BOW " alternately left or counter clockwise for a HUMP. Take special care as not to tighten the nut too much because it could result in a broken truss rod, stripped threads and a much larger monetary outlay than originally intended.
On some "Vintage Guitars" the adjustment of the truss rod is made at the end of the fingerboard called the Heel or Butt end. The adjustment is the same but in a different location.
This should fix the problem! If there seems to be an inordinate amount of "string buzz" that you find impossible to live with bring it in to your guitar tech for further inspection. If the neck has a "twist" it can void the neck straightening process you have just used and will need attention from a Luthier.
Rick Mariner - Owner, founder and CEO of Haywire Custom Guitars Inc.( Haywire Custom Guitars.com ) and a member of The Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans (A.S.I.A.) as well as a guitar player. He holds a bachelors degree from University of Md. and a Masters degree from George Washington University.
Haywire developed an 8 - Point "Gig- Ready" guitar process that allows for Haywire Custom Guitars that are "GIG-READY".
With many years of development and guitar set-up experience, we pride ourselves in helping to build you the "Just Right" Haywire guitar for you at prices well below market. Haywire Custom Guitars, "Builds satisfied players... one Haywire guitar at a time".
By Haywire Custom Guitars
Source: Haywire Custom Guitars Inc. In most cases, the neck of a guitar is adjustable. Although the wood is generally hard, dry and stiff it will still bend with string pressure and humidity or lack thereof. In our shop we have to deal with that issue on a daily basis. Inside the neck is a routed channel between the finger board and the neck shaft where a truss rod is placed to compensate for movement on the forward axis of the neck to add stability. The rod is steel and is adjustable. It runs the length of the guitar neck with an opening at one end allowing for adjustments. The truss rod both strengthens the neck and facilitates an adjustment called "relief" in the neck. A bowed or humped neck can be reversed with skillful manipulation by the adjuster-you.
All guitar necks are subject to great stress. This is sometimes the result of seasonal change, Other times when a neck could take on a slight bow or hump are from string changes with gauges higher than normally used. A guitar player will usually know a little about how to make some adjustments on his guitar. Some things he does however may contribute to a misaligned neck. Several of the "usual problems" seen are heavier gauge strings which increases the froward pressure, removing all of the strings at once and leaving guitars in a hot car. These actions will cause immediate negative pull and the will revert naturally back to where it started. However, if it does, there is a solution if you follow the procedure below for proper repositioning of a bowed neck. In our Custom shop this is the procedure we use.
First, loosen all the strings but you will not have to remove them. Push the loose strings to one side to gain access to neck adjuster. Remove cover, so neck adjuster is exposed. It's either an Allen screw or a hex nut. Look down the neck from the top where the tuners are located towards the bridge (similar to sighting a down the barrel of a gun) to see how much of a bow or hump the neck has in it.
It is recommended to use a Notched Straightedge to see how far out of alignment the neck really is. The notches are on both side of the tool. One side has cutouts for a 24-3/4" scale neck and the other is for the most common 25-1/2" scale. They are there so frets can be avoided when the tool comes in contact with the fret board. The frets fit neatly in the cut out and the straight edge will show any problems when it lies straight on the fret board.
At this point, if it is discovered that the neck is out of adjustment, it's time to go to work. Insert the Allen key or hex wrench in the Allen slot or on the adjustment nut and turn very gently in small increments at a time. Checking the neck as you proceed with each nut turn is required. Once the neck is straight keep adjusting a bit more to compensate for the tension the stings will add once they are re-tuned to pitch. Turn right or clockwise for " BOW " alternately left or counter clockwise for a HUMP. Take special care as not to tighten the nut too much because it could result in a broken truss rod, stripped threads and a much larger monetary outlay than originally intended.
On some "Vintage Guitars" the adjustment of the truss rod is made at the end of the fingerboard called the Heel or Butt end. The adjustment is the same but in a different location.
This should fix the problem! If there seems to be an inordinate amount of "string buzz" that you find impossible to live with bring it in to your guitar tech for further inspection. If the neck has a "twist" it can void the neck straightening process you have just used and will need attention from a Luthier.
Rick Mariner - Owner, founder and CEO of Haywire Custom Guitars Inc.( Haywire Custom Guitars.com ) and a member of The Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans (A.S.I.A.) as well as a guitar player. He holds a bachelors degree from University of Md. and a Masters degree from George Washington University.
Haywire developed an 8 - Point "Gig- Ready" guitar process that allows for Haywire Custom Guitars that are "GIG-READY".
With many years of development and guitar set-up experience, we pride ourselves in helping to build you the "Just Right" Haywire guitar for you at prices well below market. Haywire Custom Guitars, "Builds satisfied players... one Haywire guitar at a time".
Did you use the Refund Button on the PayPal transaction?
The Buyer said that the blouse I sold was not as I described and open the case (telling that it was a yellow spot up front).
actually it was NOT any kind of spot or damage and the approve of it are the pictures, one with a label from dry cleaning. I immediately return the money, not waiting for return, wishing just to close the case and keep my 100% Feedback score.
But because the blouse was not returned to me more than a week), I sent the massage telling that she can't keep both (the blouse and the money). After couple of days I received the mail saying that she took the blouse to the dry cleaner and the spot is ALMOST
cleaned and she decided to keep the blouse and to pay for it.
Now that is showing on my dashboard and E-bay take two times the fee.
Now that is showing on my dashboard and E-bay take two times the fee.
If you refunded fully through paypal, your paypal fees would have been reversed except for the 30 cent transaction fee. Then you would have been charged the paypal fee for receiving a second payment. You would not have been charged additional ebay fees.
So in total, the net result should have been the original fees plus 30 cents. I think if you go back and carefully review the accounting, you will find this is the case.
actually it was NOT any kind of spot or damage and the approve of it are the pictures, one with a label from dry cleaning. I immediately return the money, not waiting for return, wishing just to close the case and keep my 100% Feedback score.
But because the blouse was not returned to me more than a week), I sent the massage telling that she can't keep both (the blouse and the money). After couple of days I received the mail saying that she took the blouse to the dry cleaner and the spot is ALMOST
cleaned and she decided to keep the blouse and to pay for it.
Now that is showing on my dashboard and E-bay take two times the fee.
Now that is showing on my dashboard and E-bay take two times the fee.
If you refunded fully through paypal, your paypal fees would have been reversed except for the 30 cent transaction fee. Then you would have been charged the paypal fee for receiving a second payment. You would not have been charged additional ebay fees.
So in total, the net result should have been the original fees plus 30 cents. I think if you go back and carefully review the accounting, you will find this is the case.
Earlier today I was doing some research on some of the execs who run these companies
I now realize why so much corporate decision-making is questionable and some is really bad.
While reading profiles, résumés, work histories, and corporate connections, I discovered that quite a few of these Ivy League high-level execs went straight from university into VP positions (or nearly so).
In other words, they have no real-world experience in selling, in the corporate world, in... well, how much real-world business experience do most university students have by the age of 22 or 23 when they've been full-time students for 4 or 6 years? Most MBAs don't even graduate from (the protected environment of) university until they are between 23 and 26 and then BOOM, if it's Harvard or Stanford, a surprising number are VPs and General Managers right out of the starting block.
I know there are talented people out there—some have good business instincts from the get-go and some come from business families, so they learn it growing up, but that's not the case for all of them.
What about the ones who jump on the executive train with no practical work experience whatsoever? It might explain a lot of things that happen in these companies.
I used to work for an international company that hired nothing but those MBA grads. Company almost went under thanks to the MBA yahoos. Company managed to restructure, but never regained their former position. They now tend to hire MBAs from accredited universities (not just the Top 10) and the hires need to have work experience. Good lesson learned the hard way.
While reading profiles, résumés, work histories, and corporate connections, I discovered that quite a few of these Ivy League high-level execs went straight from university into VP positions (or nearly so).
In other words, they have no real-world experience in selling, in the corporate world, in... well, how much real-world business experience do most university students have by the age of 22 or 23 when they've been full-time students for 4 or 6 years? Most MBAs don't even graduate from (the protected environment of) university until they are between 23 and 26 and then BOOM, if it's Harvard or Stanford, a surprising number are VPs and General Managers right out of the starting block.
I know there are talented people out there—some have good business instincts from the get-go and some come from business families, so they learn it growing up, but that's not the case for all of them.
What about the ones who jump on the executive train with no practical work experience whatsoever? It might explain a lot of things that happen in these companies.
I used to work for an international company that hired nothing but those MBA grads. Company almost went under thanks to the MBA yahoos. Company managed to restructure, but never regained their former position. They now tend to hire MBAs from accredited universities (not just the Top 10) and the hires need to have work experience. Good lesson learned the hard way.
Has Your Guitar Become Difficult To Play ?
Has your guitar become a little difficult to play sometimes? Does it sound,"out of tune"? Are the strings too high off the neck? Is the neck warped or bowed? Are the tuning gears difficult to turn? Are moving parts rusty? It could be that your guitar needs a tune up!
A hard to play guitar could be a roadblock to your success as a musician, so if you want your guitar to play better and faster, let Haywire prep your guitar with our " 8 Point Gig Ready Process".
It's like getting it ready for the Grand Prix! This is the same process that we perform on all of our new instruments, and it will put your “baby” back in shape, and allow you to play fast and in tune up and down the fret board like never before!
You can also give your favorite guitar a make-over by selecting from our guitar upgrades page. Change your hardware, pick ups, tuners, or even add a new neck. We can shave your existing one to allow smaller hands and fingers to play with the same advantages as a guitar player with much larger hands.
Bring your guitar back from the dead with a well-deserved tune up from Haywire Custom Guitars! This includes cleaning the electronics, the fret board, tightening any loose hardware, adding the proper washers to the input jack and tightening it to make sure it stays tight, re-stringing, adjusting the truss rod, cleaning and adjusting nut slots, set string height and intonation! See our whole process below. Please feel free to inquire about how we can help you be a better player!
Haywire 8-Point Gig-Ready Process
Explanation of the Haywire Custom Guitars 8-Point Gig-Ready Process:
Point 1: 4-axis alignment of the guitar neck
Each guitar neck is checked and adjusted to be sure it is true and straight to ensure proper alignment on all axis. This step ensures proper action and allows for more accurate and easier guitar tuning, playing and set-up in the following steps.
Point 2: Inspect and lube the guitar tuning gears
Before installing the guitar tuning gears, each one is checked thoroughly. Each tuning gear is adjusted so that there is no play in the mechanism. They are then lubricated to insure smooth and even movement to make your guitar tune accurately.
Point 3: Potting the guitar pickups
We dip the pickups in hot wax to reduce squeal and unwanted guitar feedback.
Point 4: Prep the guitar body
Upon installing the guitar electronic components, great care is taken to ensure that all wires are properly routed, spaced, and grounded to ensure years of trouble free service with your guitar.
Point 5: Level and polish the frets
This insures that all of the guitar frets are level, eliminating any possibility of fret buzz due to unevenness.
Point 6: Radius the guitar strings
Most guitar necks have a contour over the top of the neck called the radius. We adjust the strings to make sure the height of each string follows the contour of the guitar neck radius.
Point 7: Adjusting the overall guitar string height and the action
Once we set the contour and radius of the guitar strings, it’s time to adjust the overall height of the strings from the top of the frets to the bottom of the guitar strings.
Point 8: Set the guitar intonation
This step is done twice. The intonation is set two times with a 24 hour "seat-in" period in between to allow the guitar to properly re-seat to the new adjustments.
A hard to play guitar could be a roadblock to your success as a musician, so if you want your guitar to play better and faster, let Haywire prep your guitar with our " 8 Point Gig Ready Process".
It's like getting it ready for the Grand Prix! This is the same process that we perform on all of our new instruments, and it will put your “baby” back in shape, and allow you to play fast and in tune up and down the fret board like never before!
You can also give your favorite guitar a make-over by selecting from our guitar upgrades page. Change your hardware, pick ups, tuners, or even add a new neck. We can shave your existing one to allow smaller hands and fingers to play with the same advantages as a guitar player with much larger hands.
Bring your guitar back from the dead with a well-deserved tune up from Haywire Custom Guitars! This includes cleaning the electronics, the fret board, tightening any loose hardware, adding the proper washers to the input jack and tightening it to make sure it stays tight, re-stringing, adjusting the truss rod, cleaning and adjusting nut slots, set string height and intonation! See our whole process below. Please feel free to inquire about how we can help you be a better player!
Haywire 8-Point Gig-Ready Process
Explanation of the Haywire Custom Guitars 8-Point Gig-Ready Process:
Point 1: 4-axis alignment of the guitar neck
Each guitar neck is checked and adjusted to be sure it is true and straight to ensure proper alignment on all axis. This step ensures proper action and allows for more accurate and easier guitar tuning, playing and set-up in the following steps.
Point 2: Inspect and lube the guitar tuning gears
Before installing the guitar tuning gears, each one is checked thoroughly. Each tuning gear is adjusted so that there is no play in the mechanism. They are then lubricated to insure smooth and even movement to make your guitar tune accurately.
Point 3: Potting the guitar pickups
We dip the pickups in hot wax to reduce squeal and unwanted guitar feedback.
Point 4: Prep the guitar body
Upon installing the guitar electronic components, great care is taken to ensure that all wires are properly routed, spaced, and grounded to ensure years of trouble free service with your guitar.
Point 5: Level and polish the frets
This insures that all of the guitar frets are level, eliminating any possibility of fret buzz due to unevenness.
Point 6: Radius the guitar strings
Most guitar necks have a contour over the top of the neck called the radius. We adjust the strings to make sure the height of each string follows the contour of the guitar neck radius.
Point 7: Adjusting the overall guitar string height and the action
Once we set the contour and radius of the guitar strings, it’s time to adjust the overall height of the strings from the top of the frets to the bottom of the guitar strings.
Point 8: Set the guitar intonation
This step is done twice. The intonation is set two times with a 24 hour "seat-in" period in between to allow the guitar to properly re-seat to the new adjustments.
What is a Guitar Setup and Do You Need One?
When is it necessary to "set up" a guitar?
When a guitar is set up properly you’ll notice: The guitar will feel and sound its best all the strings will sound with exactly the notes they are supposed to. All notes will sound correct when played at each fret up and down the neck. The guitar will be easy to play. Strings will break less frequently. If a guitar plays easily and sounds its best then it's easy for the player to feel the music and play well.
What difference does a guitar set up make?
When a guitar is not set up properly you’ll notice: The guitar may not feel or sound quite right. Some notes may sound correct while some others may sound sharp or flat. The guitar may be difficult to play. Strings will break more often.
How is a set up accomplished?
Adjusting action at the bridge:
Adjusting the action at the bridge for easier play makes a difference. The bridge saddles should be lowered if the string action is too high, that is, the strings are too far up off the fretboard. In some cases it may be desirable to raise the saddles for a higher string action.
Lower the saddles too much and the strings might rattle against certain frets (this may or may not be inconsequential on an electric guitar; listen through an amplifier). In more extreme cases, pressing a string against one fret might actually fret the string against a different fret, usually the one under the intended one. In both cases, filing the frets might alleviate the problem if the saddle really should be that low. Otherwise, simply raising the saddle a small amount on the side with the problem should be fine.
Filing frets
Filing frets should only be done by a qualified repair person and only to correct problems with frets buzzing or strings being presssed at the wrong fret (see "adjusting action at the bridge" above).
Filing the nut
Filing the nut should only be done by a qualified repair person and is used to reduce pressure at the nut to allow a heavier gauge of strings to be used.
Neck/truss rod adjustment
This particular adjustment has been known to ruin guitars when performed incorrectly, so here referral to a professional repair person is highly recommended. A guitar will need a truss rod adjustment if the neck is not straight. One way to check the straightness of the neck is to play 12th and 19th harmonics on the low and high strings. After sounding each harmonic, fret the note there and play it again: it should be exactly the same pitch. If it is not, the neck may be in need of adjustment. However, this may be indicative of an intonation problem as well, give the guitar to a repair person.
Adjusting intonation
You may notice each string on the bridge sits in a "saddle". Depending on your setup, you might notice the saddles may be in different positions: some might be pushed forward and others might be pushed back, sometimes slightly. The positioning of the saddle effectively changes the length of the vibrating string. Tune the guitar to concert pitch with the aid of an electronic tuner, making sure the open strings are perfectly in tune. Play the 9th and 12th fret harmonics, then play the fretted notes. If the fretted notes are sharp, the string is too short and the saddle needs to be pushed back toward the base of the bridge. If the note is flat, the string is too long and the saddle needs to be pushed up toward the nut. Repeat this procedure for each string. Adjusting the intonation should be done every few months or at least twice a year.
When a guitar is set up properly you’ll notice: The guitar will feel and sound its best all the strings will sound with exactly the notes they are supposed to. All notes will sound correct when played at each fret up and down the neck. The guitar will be easy to play. Strings will break less frequently. If a guitar plays easily and sounds its best then it's easy for the player to feel the music and play well.
What difference does a guitar set up make?
When a guitar is not set up properly you’ll notice: The guitar may not feel or sound quite right. Some notes may sound correct while some others may sound sharp or flat. The guitar may be difficult to play. Strings will break more often.
How is a set up accomplished?
Adjusting action at the bridge:
Adjusting the action at the bridge for easier play makes a difference. The bridge saddles should be lowered if the string action is too high, that is, the strings are too far up off the fretboard. In some cases it may be desirable to raise the saddles for a higher string action.
Lower the saddles too much and the strings might rattle against certain frets (this may or may not be inconsequential on an electric guitar; listen through an amplifier). In more extreme cases, pressing a string against one fret might actually fret the string against a different fret, usually the one under the intended one. In both cases, filing the frets might alleviate the problem if the saddle really should be that low. Otherwise, simply raising the saddle a small amount on the side with the problem should be fine.
Filing frets
Filing frets should only be done by a qualified repair person and only to correct problems with frets buzzing or strings being presssed at the wrong fret (see "adjusting action at the bridge" above).
Filing the nut
Filing the nut should only be done by a qualified repair person and is used to reduce pressure at the nut to allow a heavier gauge of strings to be used.
Neck/truss rod adjustment
This particular adjustment has been known to ruin guitars when performed incorrectly, so here referral to a professional repair person is highly recommended. A guitar will need a truss rod adjustment if the neck is not straight. One way to check the straightness of the neck is to play 12th and 19th harmonics on the low and high strings. After sounding each harmonic, fret the note there and play it again: it should be exactly the same pitch. If it is not, the neck may be in need of adjustment. However, this may be indicative of an intonation problem as well, give the guitar to a repair person.
Adjusting intonation
You may notice each string on the bridge sits in a "saddle". Depending on your setup, you might notice the saddles may be in different positions: some might be pushed forward and others might be pushed back, sometimes slightly. The positioning of the saddle effectively changes the length of the vibrating string. Tune the guitar to concert pitch with the aid of an electronic tuner, making sure the open strings are perfectly in tune. Play the 9th and 12th fret harmonics, then play the fretted notes. If the fretted notes are sharp, the string is too short and the saddle needs to be pushed back toward the base of the bridge. If the note is flat, the string is too long and the saddle needs to be pushed up toward the nut. Repeat this procedure for each string. Adjusting the intonation should be done every few months or at least twice a year.
Should I be worried or is this going to sort out by Monday?
Sold 3 items (on selling ID) on Thursday. Shipped all 3 on Friday around 12 pm by taking to PO (I have a set 1 day shipping time). They received acceptance scans at PO and at Sort Facility later that day. But the pop up performance page is showing that all 3 were not validated by carrier (they were). Weird part is that when I close the pop up page and am on the real performance page all 3 are showing that they were validated by carrier. Is the pop up page going to catch up with the real performance page? Now at 87.5 percent on pop up and 100 percent on real performance page.
I just looked at mine also. Same situation, I assume it will update after a few days BUT this may be something for sellers to be aware of it there is a delay.
If you sell a few items on the 18th or 19th, right before evaluation, it could affect your status for that evaluation. If this is how it is going to work, sellers may wish to make sure they avoid ending auctions on the days immediately before the 20th. If your sales are low a few of these could have a negative impact on your account. Am I reading this situation correctly?
same thing happening here, I called ebay to ask how my percentage could go down when my amount of transactions were up, validated at post office within 24 hours ( about 6) by the 3rd person and 1 hour later was told I only had one transaction, tried to explain how that not true and it is in black and white and documented ebay thrru paypal automatic tracking uploaded etc, then I got to point where my blood pressure was probably 2000 over 1000 and so I thanked her kindly and thought perhaps I will try another day. I mean how in Gods name can they defend there numbers????They are just wrong. Its ridulous
I just looked at mine also. Same situation, I assume it will update after a few days BUT this may be something for sellers to be aware of it there is a delay.
If you sell a few items on the 18th or 19th, right before evaluation, it could affect your status for that evaluation. If this is how it is going to work, sellers may wish to make sure they avoid ending auctions on the days immediately before the 20th. If your sales are low a few of these could have a negative impact on your account. Am I reading this situation correctly?
same thing happening here, I called ebay to ask how my percentage could go down when my amount of transactions were up, validated at post office within 24 hours ( about 6) by the 3rd person and 1 hour later was told I only had one transaction, tried to explain how that not true and it is in black and white and documented ebay thrru paypal automatic tracking uploaded etc, then I got to point where my blood pressure was probably 2000 over 1000 and so I thanked her kindly and thought perhaps I will try another day. I mean how in Gods name can they defend there numbers????They are just wrong. Its ridulous
I feel that the seller could have told me a week ago that the item was cancelled
I ordered a (fairly small) piece of exercise equipment from a long-time seller with 98% good feedback, on 4/16. My paypal payment was also processed that day and it did go through (not pending or anything). The product listing says it has a longer shipping/handling time, and the estimated delivery dates went through May 1. I didn't receive any info at all from the seller, nor did I receive a shipping/tracking # but I thought I would give it until May 1. As of today it would have given the seller almost ten days to ship my item. Well today I got an email from the seller in my personal email (and NOT through ebay), telling me my transaction was cancelled. They said if I had any questions to call or reply to the email, which I did but got bounced back. The strange thing is, this same item is stil up for sale on their site, with multiple amounts available!! Also, my paypal $$ have not been refunded yet.
I feel that the seller could have told me a week ago that the item was cancelled. I was really looking forward to getting it, too! I don't understand what on earth happened! I contacted the seller through ebay and asked him why the transaction was cancelled. Has this ever happened to anyone else (as a buyer)? And should I report it on the resolution center? Not trying to get the seller in trouble or anything, but it's kinda strange what happened! thanks!
You could send your friendly seller a message through eBay Messages (item not received), letting him know that you are looking forward to receiving your item. This will open a Resolution Center Claim to be worked out by eBay.
Sellers cannot unilaterally cancel transactions
I feel that the seller could have told me a week ago that the item was cancelled. I was really looking forward to getting it, too! I don't understand what on earth happened! I contacted the seller through ebay and asked him why the transaction was cancelled. Has this ever happened to anyone else (as a buyer)? And should I report it on the resolution center? Not trying to get the seller in trouble or anything, but it's kinda strange what happened! thanks!
You could send your friendly seller a message through eBay Messages (item not received), letting him know that you are looking forward to receiving your item. This will open a Resolution Center Claim to be worked out by eBay.
Sellers cannot unilaterally cancel transactions
I sold a pair of 2GB laptop RAM (4GB in total) in which I had tested before selling
The buyer who bought the RAM claims one of the modules are not working correctly. I offered to refund upon verification of the RAM once returned making sure it was actually the ones I shipped but everytime I asked for tracking information, he or she seems to ignore it.
Buyer: hi, the module is on it's way back to you. please refund. Thank You!
Me: Hello, Is there any tracking information? I will refund upon arrival of the item.
Buyer: Hi, were you able to test the module and issue a refund? Thanks.
Me: I have not received the modules yet. Was there any tracking information?
Buyer: HI, You should have received the bad module by now, please issue a refund. Thank You.
This conversation was made via eBay messages, not in the resolution center but I'm beginning to want it to be there instead.
There is no option to "Resolve A Problem" when selecting the More Actions tab on my sold item so I cannot do that.
The buyer has never opened a case either.
Sale date was 3/29, Buyer received item on 4/2 and as of today, I have no received the item back as the buyer states.
So what can I do besides "wait" for the RAM?
Buyer: hi, the module is on it's way back to you. please refund. Thank You!
Me: Hello, Is there any tracking information? I will refund upon arrival of the item.
Buyer: Hi, were you able to test the module and issue a refund? Thanks.
Me: I have not received the modules yet. Was there any tracking information?
Buyer: HI, You should have received the bad module by now, please issue a refund. Thank You.
This conversation was made via eBay messages, not in the resolution center but I'm beginning to want it to be there instead.
There is no option to "Resolve A Problem" when selecting the More Actions tab on my sold item so I cannot do that.
The buyer has never opened a case either.
Sale date was 3/29, Buyer received item on 4/2 and as of today, I have no received the item back as the buyer states.
So what can I do besides "wait" for the RAM?
How Low Can Gold Go
Like a roller coaster, the gold market of 2013 encountered steep, stomach dropping dives and climbed inclines filled with anxious anticipation of what lies ahead. Two weeks ago we pondered whether 2013 as a whole was good or bad for gold. We looked at the gold market trend and saw that gold dropped about 25% over the course of the year. We also saw that gold jewelry purchases in the United States rose by 13%. This looks promising. Please keep your hands inside the roller coaster cart and let’s take a look at what’s ahead.
Economic Forecast:
“Promising” may be too strong a word. “Optimistic” may be a better-suited term. Overall, gold is expected to dip lower in 2014, primarily driven by US economic policy. One of the mechanisms meant to improve the US economy also had the side effect of artificially inflating the value of gold: the US government began purchasing large amounts of bonds in 2008, which triggered a gold buying spree, which in turn inflated the price of gold. This was not resource consumption, just speculation. As the US government has eased back on bond purchasing, speculation on gold has been decreasing, and gold prices have been decreasing as well. In their annual review and forecast, the Australian government has estimated that gold prices will drop an additional 10% over the course of 2014. This estimation is a bit more optimistic than The Wall Street Journal’s forecast we mentioned two weeks ago, where the average gold price was expected to drop about 14.5% for 2014.
In terms of supply and demand in 2014, global gold production is expected to increase 2.7% and overall global demand is expected to increase by about 10%. Gold jewelry fabrication is expected to increase about 6% globally.
Looking beyond 2014, we can expect that gold prices will be driven increasingly by consumption rather than speculation. According to the Australian government, gold prices are expected to stabilize around 2014 averages in 2015 and then begin to rise 4% annually through 2019. Globally, the “newest” gold mines will move into full production and existing mines will taper back on production, resulting in a yearly increase of only 0.8% by 2019. What does all this mean? Overall gold production will be leveling out year over year. Simply stated, with lower supply and greater demand, gold prices should begin to consistently rise.
Economic Forecast:
“Promising” may be too strong a word. “Optimistic” may be a better-suited term. Overall, gold is expected to dip lower in 2014, primarily driven by US economic policy. One of the mechanisms meant to improve the US economy also had the side effect of artificially inflating the value of gold: the US government began purchasing large amounts of bonds in 2008, which triggered a gold buying spree, which in turn inflated the price of gold. This was not resource consumption, just speculation. As the US government has eased back on bond purchasing, speculation on gold has been decreasing, and gold prices have been decreasing as well. In their annual review and forecast, the Australian government has estimated that gold prices will drop an additional 10% over the course of 2014. This estimation is a bit more optimistic than The Wall Street Journal’s forecast we mentioned two weeks ago, where the average gold price was expected to drop about 14.5% for 2014.
In terms of supply and demand in 2014, global gold production is expected to increase 2.7% and overall global demand is expected to increase by about 10%. Gold jewelry fabrication is expected to increase about 6% globally.
Looking beyond 2014, we can expect that gold prices will be driven increasingly by consumption rather than speculation. According to the Australian government, gold prices are expected to stabilize around 2014 averages in 2015 and then begin to rise 4% annually through 2019. Globally, the “newest” gold mines will move into full production and existing mines will taper back on production, resulting in a yearly increase of only 0.8% by 2019. What does all this mean? Overall gold production will be leveling out year over year. Simply stated, with lower supply and greater demand, gold prices should begin to consistently rise.
NO MORE FREE SHIPPING: Charge for it. Whatever it is, CHARGE FOR IT!
OK so given the FACT that the new policies will drive 99% of existing TRS holders out of those ranks, if not existance, I am proposing we all take up the following "8/24 Seller Strategy":
There is NO reason why you should still have settings designed for the TRS discount when you won't benefit from it.
1) Opt to go with a 3 Day Handling setting (relieves the stress and throws their 'shipping / delivery date calcs' into a frenzy.)
2) NO MORE FREE SHIPPING: Charge for it. Whatever it is, CHARGE FOR IT!
3) RAISE YOUR PRICES - Calculate your new FVF to INCLUDE the 20% TRS FVF loss and the added FVF cost of the shipping and adjust your prices UPWARDS. (Sure eBay gets a few more kopeks BUT the BUYER is covering that resulting is SITE WIDE price increases to ALL buyers.).
4) With the above strategy the Search Rank engine will get "Binary Diarrhea" rendering it useless and ineffective as a 'marketing ploy' on their part.
5) Finally and as a fitting result, the eBay CEO, Burke and other high ups at the next Stockholders Meeting will play THIS as a Prelude to the Annual Report:
Ebay will do nothing, they don't care....... they are so out of touch.
They can't deliver buyers like they did 2 years ago anyway.....
Yes : No more subsidized Ebay listings ( FVF+ Ship is included) already done that.
~3 day handling.......without actually doing it. ( still ship in 1 day)
Thinking about adding restock fees to cover FVF fees on refunds.
Also this :
" Hello Ebay shopper : FVF fees are already included in all our prices here on ebay. "
Once shoppers start using google : the 3P selling venue model is dead..
"The floggings will continue until morale improves......"
Name a company that kills it's veteran clients off, the ones who pay them ~$10K a year in fees.....for 10+ years.
There is NO reason why you should still have settings designed for the TRS discount when you won't benefit from it.
1) Opt to go with a 3 Day Handling setting (relieves the stress and throws their 'shipping / delivery date calcs' into a frenzy.)
2) NO MORE FREE SHIPPING: Charge for it. Whatever it is, CHARGE FOR IT!
3) RAISE YOUR PRICES - Calculate your new FVF to INCLUDE the 20% TRS FVF loss and the added FVF cost of the shipping and adjust your prices UPWARDS. (Sure eBay gets a few more kopeks BUT the BUYER is covering that resulting is SITE WIDE price increases to ALL buyers.).
4) With the above strategy the Search Rank engine will get "Binary Diarrhea" rendering it useless and ineffective as a 'marketing ploy' on their part.
5) Finally and as a fitting result, the eBay CEO, Burke and other high ups at the next Stockholders Meeting will play THIS as a Prelude to the Annual Report:
Ebay will do nothing, they don't care....... they are so out of touch.
They can't deliver buyers like they did 2 years ago anyway.....
Yes : No more subsidized Ebay listings ( FVF+ Ship is included) already done that.
~3 day handling.......without actually doing it. ( still ship in 1 day)
Thinking about adding restock fees to cover FVF fees on refunds.
Also this :
" Hello Ebay shopper : FVF fees are already included in all our prices here on ebay. "
Once shoppers start using google : the 3P selling venue model is dead..
"The floggings will continue until morale improves......"
Name a company that kills it's veteran clients off, the ones who pay them ~$10K a year in fees.....for 10+ years.
Whats going on with eBay I have had ZERO SALES in almost 2 weeks
Or, try standing on your head whistling Dixie with a one-eyed toad under a full moon. God knows, it must be your fault suddenly. Just ask eBay.
Their million+ dollar search engine is new-and-improved, they haven't announced ANY technical glitches, they've gone to a lot of effort to attract new buyers, and get rid of the bad sellers, they are global-friendly, and you can access all this easily from a teeny weeny mobile device anywhere, any time. Plus, they consistently put out fresh new webinars and such, just to help sellers like you. All WONDERFUL successes!
Of course, you're only about the gazillionth person to complain about this sort of occurrence, so maybe you're ALL wrong. I wonder what the chances are?
I definitely suggest more auctions as well. Try some 5 day or even 3 day. People will get on there look at the stuff that is ending soon and be kinda pressured by the ending time to bid. That's how I am anyway, I see it in myself. If something is a buy it now, it gives me time to think about it. If it is ending soon, it's kinda like "do or die". :smileyhappy: Ebay is doing free relisting up to 3 times I think, so you got that going for you too. Although I will say that ebay seems to just reposition my items in search rank all the time. Something they will be at the top of the first page, and a couple days later they will be on a different page alltogether.
Out of curiosity just exactly how long is an eek? Is it somewhere between a week & eons?...=eeks LOL
Sorry couldn't resist that typo. Anyhoo I concur with dingys assessment on the situation here. We all know ebay rocks & nothing they could ever do could sway, distract or flat out hide the search for millions of perpective buyers, the holds on payments, the free refunds they hand out in the $$$$$$$$$millions w/o just cause. I could expound, but why ruin the rest of your eekend. Try to hang in the OP & do what you can to survive this dry spell.
Also good time to start spreading your wings for greener pastures just in case this one dries up completely in near future. :smileywink:
Their million+ dollar search engine is new-and-improved, they haven't announced ANY technical glitches, they've gone to a lot of effort to attract new buyers, and get rid of the bad sellers, they are global-friendly, and you can access all this easily from a teeny weeny mobile device anywhere, any time. Plus, they consistently put out fresh new webinars and such, just to help sellers like you. All WONDERFUL successes!
Of course, you're only about the gazillionth person to complain about this sort of occurrence, so maybe you're ALL wrong. I wonder what the chances are?
I definitely suggest more auctions as well. Try some 5 day or even 3 day. People will get on there look at the stuff that is ending soon and be kinda pressured by the ending time to bid. That's how I am anyway, I see it in myself. If something is a buy it now, it gives me time to think about it. If it is ending soon, it's kinda like "do or die". :smileyhappy: Ebay is doing free relisting up to 3 times I think, so you got that going for you too. Although I will say that ebay seems to just reposition my items in search rank all the time. Something they will be at the top of the first page, and a couple days later they will be on a different page alltogether.
Out of curiosity just exactly how long is an eek? Is it somewhere between a week & eons?...=eeks LOL
Sorry couldn't resist that typo. Anyhoo I concur with dingys assessment on the situation here. We all know ebay rocks & nothing they could ever do could sway, distract or flat out hide the search for millions of perpective buyers, the holds on payments, the free refunds they hand out in the $$$$$$$$$millions w/o just cause. I could expound, but why ruin the rest of your eekend. Try to hang in the OP & do what you can to survive this dry spell.
Also good time to start spreading your wings for greener pastures just in case this one dries up completely in near future. :smileywink:
Can I make my USPS shipping label smaller than normal to fit on a small box?
80% seems to be the preferred maximimum by the USPS. Although most postal workers will pass through just about anything, there are those special few who do it "by the book." Also, if it's too small and the scanners can't read it correctly, you could get hit by an additional handling fee.
Choosing of Your Skateboard Wheels
Hardness
Skateboard wheels usually made in polyurethane - based materials, the hardness of wheels are depending on the proportion of the polyurethane. Hardness of 85A (A refers to the hardness) of the wheel is relatively soft, suitable for rough road glide, glide sound when minimal pedal board is a good choice. However, 85A wheels comparatively do not tend to soft, when skidding like brakes that kind of action is very easy to get broken of the spacer layer. General riders now have 97A-103A wheels, and they are suitable on smooth marble and relatively flat surface, U pool, jumping and other props. Transparent or translucent wheels do not intended to 103A, since too hard and very easy to be busted, it is better using on all the WOOD material props (say wood u pool).
Skateboard Wheels
Diameter
To be able to do the movements with strong power, choosing the right size of the wheels can help you to do the certain type of movements with better power and speed. Say “ground movement” hopes your board the lighter the better, and wheels tend to smaller and lead faster.
38- 40mm wheels not favor for many people nowadays, the wheels start to accelerate fast, but little stamina, suitable for very flat surfaces.
45mm - 50mm wheels, is a better and suitable type on street road.
52 - 60mm wheels are more suitable for using in all props.
Above 60mm is more suitable than "off-road wheels", which professional skateboarding is skating on the mount road with larger rubber wheels.
Skateboard Wheels
Rebound
Wheel rebound is very important although there is no argument/number can be referred, we commonly agree the stronger rebound the better to across the barriers.
If you do not know your wheels rebound performance, you can do a little experiment. Remove the wheel bearings inside; you throw hard to the floor, high rebound wheels will bounce to the ceiling, low rebound wheels only close to the ground and "flopping" for two to couple times.
On a smooth surface road/props, perhaps, rebound is not the key element and, but in the slightly rough roads encountered, the superiority of high rebound wheels can immediately show out.
Skateboard wheels usually made in polyurethane - based materials, the hardness of wheels are depending on the proportion of the polyurethane. Hardness of 85A (A refers to the hardness) of the wheel is relatively soft, suitable for rough road glide, glide sound when minimal pedal board is a good choice. However, 85A wheels comparatively do not tend to soft, when skidding like brakes that kind of action is very easy to get broken of the spacer layer. General riders now have 97A-103A wheels, and they are suitable on smooth marble and relatively flat surface, U pool, jumping and other props. Transparent or translucent wheels do not intended to 103A, since too hard and very easy to be busted, it is better using on all the WOOD material props (say wood u pool).
Skateboard Wheels
Diameter
To be able to do the movements with strong power, choosing the right size of the wheels can help you to do the certain type of movements with better power and speed. Say “ground movement” hopes your board the lighter the better, and wheels tend to smaller and lead faster.
38- 40mm wheels not favor for many people nowadays, the wheels start to accelerate fast, but little stamina, suitable for very flat surfaces.
45mm - 50mm wheels, is a better and suitable type on street road.
52 - 60mm wheels are more suitable for using in all props.
Above 60mm is more suitable than "off-road wheels", which professional skateboarding is skating on the mount road with larger rubber wheels.
Skateboard Wheels
Rebound
Wheel rebound is very important although there is no argument/number can be referred, we commonly agree the stronger rebound the better to across the barriers.
If you do not know your wheels rebound performance, you can do a little experiment. Remove the wheel bearings inside; you throw hard to the floor, high rebound wheels will bounce to the ceiling, low rebound wheels only close to the ground and "flopping" for two to couple times.
On a smooth surface road/props, perhaps, rebound is not the key element and, but in the slightly rough roads encountered, the superiority of high rebound wheels can immediately show out.
DSR's don't show up for a few days after the feedback back is left...
I'm good as far as Ebay is concerned, but I was just looking at my Dashboard and noticed one of my buyers gave me low marks on Item Not As Described. I always describe (in great detail) every possible defect in the item up for auction (perhaps even to the point of being overly picky about it) because I want my buyers to know exactly what they're bidding on, no possibility of any problems. Now I have a mark on my record because somebody apparently didn't read the auction details. Makes me mad, I don't like having any marks against me unfairly. I wish I could find out who gave me low stars in that particular category so I could find out why.
Samstag, 26. April 2014
Which hookah is good for you
Where to buy good hookah that suits your needs
It depends on the usage and type of person you are. If you like to smoke regular, occasional or with friends only, you want to have hookah for a long time with you or just a short time and keep changing it.
A variety of hookahs are available to buy and if you are a type of person who like to smoke and enjoys it you should go with big hookah and big base. If base is bigger it gives you smooth smoke and you take it in your lungs to deep and then smoke out. Gives you immense pleasure. I have many big hookahs. When you choose your hookah you need to be very careful. Lot of hookahs are having issues with multiple people smoking together. Another question is how many hoses you want to have. If you smoke with your close friends and have lot of fun together I recommend going with 4 hose hookah. Remember big hookahs gives you better smooth strokes and always recommended but be careful while buying them. Buy from a good store and get educated about how to use it. I know a very good store in new brunswick NJ. Khalil mammon and deluxe big hookahs are recommended ones. There are many designs it comes into.
express hookah.com
is the website and located at 30 paterson street, new brunswick, NJ. They are the best one in town. After there are lot of issues of cigarette smoking in new york I always enjoy hookah at home bought from this location. They have very good collection of hookahs and other smoke stuff.
If you are looking a small hookah for yourself only and don't want to spend a lot of money then you can go with medium size or small size hookah. Pumpkin hookah is the smallest one and good for one person. Don't buy two hose pumpkin as it is not made for two people. I would suggest you to spend some more money and go with medium size hookah. MYA is the best brand for small/medium size hookahs. It has a big base and very nice look. Everybody likes it. It doesn't rust and easy to clean.
There are Egyptian and syrian hookahs in the big hookah style. Syrian and Egyptian hookahs are very good for 2 people smoking. There are lot of khalil mammon hookah sold in market. You need to be very careful while buying those. Make sure these are original. You can see khalil mammon written on the hookah plate. Contact me if you want more information on hookahs... :)
It depends on the usage and type of person you are. If you like to smoke regular, occasional or with friends only, you want to have hookah for a long time with you or just a short time and keep changing it.
A variety of hookahs are available to buy and if you are a type of person who like to smoke and enjoys it you should go with big hookah and big base. If base is bigger it gives you smooth smoke and you take it in your lungs to deep and then smoke out. Gives you immense pleasure. I have many big hookahs. When you choose your hookah you need to be very careful. Lot of hookahs are having issues with multiple people smoking together. Another question is how many hoses you want to have. If you smoke with your close friends and have lot of fun together I recommend going with 4 hose hookah. Remember big hookahs gives you better smooth strokes and always recommended but be careful while buying them. Buy from a good store and get educated about how to use it. I know a very good store in new brunswick NJ. Khalil mammon and deluxe big hookahs are recommended ones. There are many designs it comes into.
express hookah.com
is the website and located at 30 paterson street, new brunswick, NJ. They are the best one in town. After there are lot of issues of cigarette smoking in new york I always enjoy hookah at home bought from this location. They have very good collection of hookahs and other smoke stuff.
If you are looking a small hookah for yourself only and don't want to spend a lot of money then you can go with medium size or small size hookah. Pumpkin hookah is the smallest one and good for one person. Don't buy two hose pumpkin as it is not made for two people. I would suggest you to spend some more money and go with medium size hookah. MYA is the best brand for small/medium size hookahs. It has a big base and very nice look. Everybody likes it. It doesn't rust and easy to clean.
There are Egyptian and syrian hookahs in the big hookah style. Syrian and Egyptian hookahs are very good for 2 people smoking. There are lot of khalil mammon hookah sold in market. You need to be very careful while buying those. Make sure these are original. You can see khalil mammon written on the hookah plate. Contact me if you want more information on hookahs... :)
Canon Printer Models with Resetters or ARCs
Here is a list of the models which have aftermarket products to save 90% on ink. Refill your own!
Since 2006 when RKS in Germany first broke the Canon Pixma chip series code for the cli-8 / pgi-5 ink cartridge chip series, Canon has done everything it can to stop this aftermarket explosion of chip resetters and automatic reset chips.
Canon makes a lot of money selling ink cartridges with no concern for recycling and protecting Mother Earth from the 32 million empty carts which are tossed into landfills each year. But a lot of folks are discovering that they can refill their own ink cartridges for pennies and will save more than 90% on ink costs.
Thus each year Canon comes out with new models and continues to develop ways to make it difficult if not impossible for anyone to bypass buying oem canon cartridges.
What do you need to know when buying a Canon Pixma Printer in order to save hundreds of dollars every quarter or year? It's simple. as of April 2014 there are only four Canon Chip series that have been broken and thus have aftermarket products which you can use to fill your own ink carts.
The four series are: cli-8/pgi-5, cli-221/pgi-220, cli-226 / pgi-225 and cli-251/ pgi-250.
How do you know what models have which series?
Well if you are in a store looking at printers, just open the hood and look at the ink cartridges. Right on top of each cartridge you will see the number.
The picture below is a look inside the ip4300 and you can see the numbers on the ink cartridges. It shows you these have cli-8 and pgi-5 chips.
Here are a list of the models in each series that currently have either resetters or auto reset chips or both. Also just in case you are new to this, auto reset chips usually come on empty refillable ink cartridges, but you can also buy them without the cartridges. But for the newer 251 models, you would not want to do this because the original canon cartridges now are all black and you will have a hard time refilling them. Better to go with a brand new empty refillable with an auto reset chip on board. That is what we use and they work great.
Cli-8 / Pgi-5 - these have both a resetter & auto reset chips available
PIXMA MP500
PIXMA MP510
PIXMA MP520
PIXMA MP530
PIXMA MP600
PIXMA MP610
PIXMA MP800
PIXMA MP800R
PIXMA MP810
PIXMA MP830
PIXMA MP830 Refurbished
PIXMA MP960
PIXMA MP970
PIXMA MX700
PIXMA MX850
PIXMA Pro9000
PIXMA Pro9000 Mark II
PIXMA iP3300
PIXMA iP3500
PIXMA iP4200
PIXMA iP4200 Refurbished
PIXMA iP4300
PIXMA iP4500
PIXMA iP5200
PIXMA iP5200R
PIXMA iP6600D
PIXMA iP6700D
PIXMA_MP530_Refurbished
PIXMA_Pro9000_MarkII_Refurbished
PIXMA_iP6700D_Refurbished
Cli-221 / Pgi-220 - these have both a resetter & auto reset chips available
PIXMA MP560
PIXMA MP620
PIXMA MP620B
PIXMA MP640
PIXMA MP640R
PIXMA MP980
PIXMA MP990
PIXMA MX860
PIXMA MX870
PIXMA iP3600
PIXMA iP3600 RFB
PIXMA iP4600
PIXMA iP4700
PIXMA_MP560_Wireless_Refurbished
PIXMA_MP620B_Blue_Wireless_Refurbished
PIXMA_MP620_Wireless_Refurbished
PIXMA_MP640_Wireless_Refurbished
PIXMA_MP980_Wireless_Refurbished
PIXMA_MP990_Wireless_Refurbished
PIXMA_MX860_Wireless_Refurbished
PIXMA_MX870-RFB
Cli-226 / Pgi-225 - these have both a resetter & auto reset chips available
MG8120 RFB
MG8120B RFB
PIXMA MG5120
PIXMA MG5220
PIXMA MG5220 RFB
PIXMA MG5320
PIXMA MG6120
PIXMA MG6120 Refurbished
PIXMA MG6220
PIXMA MG8120
PIXMA MG8120B
PIXMA MG8220
PIXMA MX712
PIXMA MX882
PIXMA MX882 RFB
PIXMA MX892
PIXMA iP4820
PIXMA iP4920
PIXMA iX6520
Cli-251 / Pgi-250 - these only have auto reset chips available. Canon has taken there chips a step further and if you reset them, they will blow the circuit and become useless. That is why there is no resetter for these models and we will likely never see a resetter again.
PIXMA MG5420
PIXMA MG5422
PIXMA MG5520
PIXMA MG5520 White
PIXMA MG5522
PIXMA MG6320
PIXMA MG6320 White
PIXMA MG6420
PIXMA MG6420 White
PIXMA MG7120
PIXMA MG7120 Brown
PIXMA MG7120 Red
PIXMA MG7120 White
PIXMA MX722
PIXMA MX922
PIXMA iP7220
PIXMA iP8720
PIXMA iX6820
See the 8 and 5 on the carts, this indicates that they have cli-8 and pgi-5 chips. All of Canon ink cartridges are numbered right on top, so before you buy make sure you know what you are buying. Only certain chip series have aftermarket products to save you money on ink.
Here are examples of empty refillable ink cartridges with auto reset chips on board. These come complete with their own orange trays to keep them sealed and steady for refilling. They also have a little plug on top at the refill hole.
Since 2006 when RKS in Germany first broke the Canon Pixma chip series code for the cli-8 / pgi-5 ink cartridge chip series, Canon has done everything it can to stop this aftermarket explosion of chip resetters and automatic reset chips.
Canon makes a lot of money selling ink cartridges with no concern for recycling and protecting Mother Earth from the 32 million empty carts which are tossed into landfills each year. But a lot of folks are discovering that they can refill their own ink cartridges for pennies and will save more than 90% on ink costs.
Thus each year Canon comes out with new models and continues to develop ways to make it difficult if not impossible for anyone to bypass buying oem canon cartridges.
What do you need to know when buying a Canon Pixma Printer in order to save hundreds of dollars every quarter or year? It's simple. as of April 2014 there are only four Canon Chip series that have been broken and thus have aftermarket products which you can use to fill your own ink carts.
The four series are: cli-8/pgi-5, cli-221/pgi-220, cli-226 / pgi-225 and cli-251/ pgi-250.
How do you know what models have which series?
Well if you are in a store looking at printers, just open the hood and look at the ink cartridges. Right on top of each cartridge you will see the number.
The picture below is a look inside the ip4300 and you can see the numbers on the ink cartridges. It shows you these have cli-8 and pgi-5 chips.
Here are a list of the models in each series that currently have either resetters or auto reset chips or both. Also just in case you are new to this, auto reset chips usually come on empty refillable ink cartridges, but you can also buy them without the cartridges. But for the newer 251 models, you would not want to do this because the original canon cartridges now are all black and you will have a hard time refilling them. Better to go with a brand new empty refillable with an auto reset chip on board. That is what we use and they work great.
Cli-8 / Pgi-5 - these have both a resetter & auto reset chips available
PIXMA MP500
PIXMA MP510
PIXMA MP520
PIXMA MP530
PIXMA MP600
PIXMA MP610
PIXMA MP800
PIXMA MP800R
PIXMA MP810
PIXMA MP830
PIXMA MP830 Refurbished
PIXMA MP960
PIXMA MP970
PIXMA MX700
PIXMA MX850
PIXMA Pro9000
PIXMA Pro9000 Mark II
PIXMA iP3300
PIXMA iP3500
PIXMA iP4200
PIXMA iP4200 Refurbished
PIXMA iP4300
PIXMA iP4500
PIXMA iP5200
PIXMA iP5200R
PIXMA iP6600D
PIXMA iP6700D
PIXMA_MP530_Refurbished
PIXMA_Pro9000_MarkII_Refurbished
PIXMA_iP6700D_Refurbished
Cli-221 / Pgi-220 - these have both a resetter & auto reset chips available
PIXMA MP560
PIXMA MP620
PIXMA MP620B
PIXMA MP640
PIXMA MP640R
PIXMA MP980
PIXMA MP990
PIXMA MX860
PIXMA MX870
PIXMA iP3600
PIXMA iP3600 RFB
PIXMA iP4600
PIXMA iP4700
PIXMA_MP560_Wireless_Refurbished
PIXMA_MP620B_Blue_Wireless_Refurbished
PIXMA_MP620_Wireless_Refurbished
PIXMA_MP640_Wireless_Refurbished
PIXMA_MP980_Wireless_Refurbished
PIXMA_MP990_Wireless_Refurbished
PIXMA_MX860_Wireless_Refurbished
PIXMA_MX870-RFB
Cli-226 / Pgi-225 - these have both a resetter & auto reset chips available
MG8120 RFB
MG8120B RFB
PIXMA MG5120
PIXMA MG5220
PIXMA MG5220 RFB
PIXMA MG5320
PIXMA MG6120
PIXMA MG6120 Refurbished
PIXMA MG6220
PIXMA MG8120
PIXMA MG8120B
PIXMA MG8220
PIXMA MX712
PIXMA MX882
PIXMA MX882 RFB
PIXMA MX892
PIXMA iP4820
PIXMA iP4920
PIXMA iX6520
Cli-251 / Pgi-250 - these only have auto reset chips available. Canon has taken there chips a step further and if you reset them, they will blow the circuit and become useless. That is why there is no resetter for these models and we will likely never see a resetter again.
PIXMA MG5420
PIXMA MG5422
PIXMA MG5520
PIXMA MG5520 White
PIXMA MG5522
PIXMA MG6320
PIXMA MG6320 White
PIXMA MG6420
PIXMA MG6420 White
PIXMA MG7120
PIXMA MG7120 Brown
PIXMA MG7120 Red
PIXMA MG7120 White
PIXMA MX722
PIXMA MX922
PIXMA iP7220
PIXMA iP8720
PIXMA iX6820
See the 8 and 5 on the carts, this indicates that they have cli-8 and pgi-5 chips. All of Canon ink cartridges are numbered right on top, so before you buy make sure you know what you are buying. Only certain chip series have aftermarket products to save you money on ink.
Here are examples of empty refillable ink cartridges with auto reset chips on board. These come complete with their own orange trays to keep them sealed and steady for refilling. They also have a little plug on top at the refill hole.
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