Not a real good idea. If the buiyer closes the case you, the seller, are stuck with the defect.
If you have ebay messages stating "all is well, yada yada" from your buyer, you need to call ebay right away, ask for someone who can view ebay messages and get this claim closed in YOUR FAVOR WHILE YOU ARE ON THE PHONE> do not settle for the typical "there is nothing we can do" mantra, or "we will get back to you in 72 hours"...both are lies.
Though ebay touted for a while now that "opened cases would not count against you"....they either changed their minds or lied from the start.
If you don't have enough sales to support a quarterly "look back"...that buyer closed case will be a defect bullet in your ebay vest for an entire year.
Best to get rid of these right away. Do not listen to the nonsense of "your buyers love you", this "will not hurt you", " there is nothing we can do"....ALL LIES.
ebay can remove defects, they just can't be bothered.
Someone suggested that each ebay CS is allowed so many "removals". After their number is up, they get DEFECTIVE ratings on their customer service. Though I forget the SOURCE it made complete sense at the time. .....
....you get a rep that has "used up his good customer service tokens" you are hosed per a solution to your problem.
Sonntag, 18. Mai 2014
In Chrome or Firefox
on EVERY listing, I always have errors. The prices won't stay. I enter them. The space blanks out. I have to click CONTINUE, get an error, then it takes. What a waste of time. And there's always more errors.
-Changing from AUCTION to Fixed won't take. Again I have to click CONTINUE, get an error & then enter my data.
-When I enter a price, the page scolls to some other place in the page.
-When I change any item, the page scrolls to odd places, aways from where I was, often putting back what was there before I changed it.
-FREE SHIPPING gets selected when I don't want it.
-I can't figue a pattern, but items will change to something other than I entered.
It's so annoying & costs me sales. If I don't check a listing thoroughly after it's listed, I have had messed up shipping & prices. I want to be able to trust what I put in. Not take three & four times the time to get an item up for sale.
-I don't think it's any browser setting or ebay setting.
-this has been going on for MONTHS & you know calling ebay will not get help
-there are plenty of other listing problems. This is just a taste.
-do others have these problems?
-any solutions?
-Changing from AUCTION to Fixed won't take. Again I have to click CONTINUE, get an error & then enter my data.
-When I enter a price, the page scolls to some other place in the page.
-When I change any item, the page scrolls to odd places, aways from where I was, often putting back what was there before I changed it.
-FREE SHIPPING gets selected when I don't want it.
-I can't figue a pattern, but items will change to something other than I entered.
It's so annoying & costs me sales. If I don't check a listing thoroughly after it's listed, I have had messed up shipping & prices. I want to be able to trust what I put in. Not take three & four times the time to get an item up for sale.
-I don't think it's any browser setting or ebay setting.
-this has been going on for MONTHS & you know calling ebay will not get help
-there are plenty of other listing problems. This is just a taste.
-do others have these problems?
-any solutions?
I need some advice on what to do next
I have a repeat buyer who purchased an item from me on Wednesday. She is only a few towns from me and I have nevre had issues with this buyer before. When I went to the post office to drop off my packages for that day the worker scanned them as delivered instead of accepted. I know a lot of people have had this happened before. What happend is on our end of the tracking it shows delivered and thats it but on USPS end it still shows all the scans and the real delivery. Most of my buyers from that day received their packages and left positive feedback.
Today my repeat buyer from a few towns over wrote me and said she did not recieve her package yet. She also said that tracking shows that it was delivered elsewhere. I explained that sometimes the clerk at the post office will scan delivered instead of accepted but it will still get delivered as usual, just updates on their end. I called the post office and luckly come someone who was willing to check into the tracking number for me even though the post office was closed for the day. She said that the package was delivered the next day at her location.
I need some advice on how to handle this next. I already wrote my buyer to let her know this information and asked her to see if maybe someone else in the house may have put the package somewhere. I'm also going to go on Monday and get a print out of the tracking for my records just in case. What would be the best thing to tell my buyer if she tells me she still did not receive her package?If they will give the print-out of internal tracking showing delivered I would send that via ebay messages to the buyer.. and offer to file a lost /stolen mail report with their PO for them since the PO is claiming delivered.
Hard to say how ebay will decide since the online tracking is not available usually would always be in the buyers favor.
You would need to refund just before the case can be escalated.
Although, I would call ebay before that happens if the buyer still insists not delivered after you send them the printout. Ask the CSR to read all messages and they can see that printout.
No fault is not a great decision, (although way better than unresolved case strike)and that is what I would try for at the very least.
No fault leaves FB open and the buyer can dish a defect to your FB/DSRs..
Try the call back option when you call ebay.. always if possible..:smileyhappy:
Sometimes ebay issues a courtesy refund to the buyer to close the case as no fault, more often if low cost item and buyer is not making regular claims.
Today my repeat buyer from a few towns over wrote me and said she did not recieve her package yet. She also said that tracking shows that it was delivered elsewhere. I explained that sometimes the clerk at the post office will scan delivered instead of accepted but it will still get delivered as usual, just updates on their end. I called the post office and luckly come someone who was willing to check into the tracking number for me even though the post office was closed for the day. She said that the package was delivered the next day at her location.
I need some advice on how to handle this next. I already wrote my buyer to let her know this information and asked her to see if maybe someone else in the house may have put the package somewhere. I'm also going to go on Monday and get a print out of the tracking for my records just in case. What would be the best thing to tell my buyer if she tells me she still did not receive her package?If they will give the print-out of internal tracking showing delivered I would send that via ebay messages to the buyer.. and offer to file a lost /stolen mail report with their PO for them since the PO is claiming delivered.
Hard to say how ebay will decide since the online tracking is not available usually would always be in the buyers favor.
You would need to refund just before the case can be escalated.
Although, I would call ebay before that happens if the buyer still insists not delivered after you send them the printout. Ask the CSR to read all messages and they can see that printout.
No fault is not a great decision, (although way better than unresolved case strike)and that is what I would try for at the very least.
No fault leaves FB open and the buyer can dish a defect to your FB/DSRs..
Try the call back option when you call ebay.. always if possible..:smileyhappy:
Sometimes ebay issues a courtesy refund to the buyer to close the case as no fault, more often if low cost item and buyer is not making regular claims.
How to sell smart on Ebay
Be thorough in listing your item(s). The more you describe what you are selling the better the bidder is going to understand what you they are buying from you.
To make your auction stand out, include pictures. Not only do you include pictures but make sure there are multiple pictures and that they are clear and of good quality.
List the return policy and/or exchange policy so that there are no any unanswered or confusion in the listing. If you have a no return policy make sure to list that in your auction ahead of time so there are no expectations before a bidder bids on your auction.
Free shipping is always best but do your own calculating on items and make sure the shipping is reasonable. Overcharging for shipping will surely make bidders go elsewhere.
Never have a "handling fee."
Always list on your auction to ask questions before bidding.
Make sure you list the forms of payments the you prefer before selling.
Ask bidders to pay within 3 days after the auction has ended.
Please leave feedback and resolve any issues before negative feedback is left. Best indoor aerial for UK Freeview
Best indoor aerial for Freeview. Best loft aerial. Outdoor aerials.
You can use absolutely ANY aerial indoors and it's easy to experiment because it doesn't involve dangerous climbing of ladders.
However, aerials indoors generally perform very poorly compared with those mounted above the roof. The reason is simple: the fabric of the walls impedes the signal AND there's a lot of interference from nearby equipment and mains wiring. Consequently, an aerial performs best if pointed towards the transmitter through a window. DON'T make the mistake of putting it close to a TV, where interference is greatest and signal is weakest. The aerial should be as far away from the TV, DVD, computer, Router, phone, fluorescent light etc. as possible, otherwise it will be swamped by interference. (You won't see the interference on the digital picture but it will make reliable reception impossible.)
If you don't know which way to point the aerial, type your UK postcode into the Wolfbane web site signal predictor page and look for the compass bearing. This page also predicts the likely signal strength. Anything below 30 dBuV/m is unlikely to work. You'll also find information and relevant links on the SatCure web site.
Indoor aerials are available, which are small and neat. However, size matters and indoor aerials are always a poor compromise. Some even have a built-in amplifier, which can boost the interference and make reception worse! So, wherever possible, test the available signal with your existing aerial or the cheapest you can buy or borrow. If it does NOT receive a stable signal on all channels then you can be certain that an indoor aerial will not.
The best aerial for all uses has been found by SatCure to be the log-periodic type. This has the advantage of a relatively constant gain across the UHF frequency spectrum and is also better at rejecting interference than the conventional Yagi type of aerial. Also, unlike the Yagi, a log-periodic has NO bulky reflector screen sticking up at the rear. This fact makes the log-periodic easier to hide on top of a cupboard, for example. When shopping for Littlest Pet Shop pets, a new buyer is often surprised by how high the prices are on eBay and at consignment. Most Littlest Pet Shop pets were originally purchased for $10-20 per set at a Wal-Mart, Target, or Toys R Us, so its disheartening that each pet often runs $5 per pet even when used. But remember, the seller on eBay is shipping you a product and even if the product is priced rather inexpensively, the mail costs are set. Because the pets can be shipped first class due to their light weight, if you are interested in a specific pet, ask your seller if they will ship to you via first class in a mailing envelop to reduce costs.
Mailing envelops can save on shipping
Second, if you are not interested in a specific pet, buy in bulk via an Littlest Pet Shop lot. The more pets you purchase at one time, the more likely you are to get a lower price per pet. You will also find a better price from someone looking to clear out their own or their child's toy box, rather than a professional eBay seller who caters to the collectors. In addition, if you are not looking to get a specific playset -- search for auctions which have pets only as the seller can ship the pets more cheaply than the pets with a setting / playhouse.
Finally, make sure that you know the state of the pets before you purchase. Look closely at pictures. Buy only from sellers who show multiple views of the pets. If you are concerned about marks on the pets, ask the seller about that. In particular, Littlest Pet Shop pets often have initials written on them -- most often on the feet, but sometimes on the back of the head. If you can't see all sides of the pet, ask the seller if there are any vandalizing marks beyond normal play or if there are any initials.
To make your auction stand out, include pictures. Not only do you include pictures but make sure there are multiple pictures and that they are clear and of good quality.
List the return policy and/or exchange policy so that there are no any unanswered or confusion in the listing. If you have a no return policy make sure to list that in your auction ahead of time so there are no expectations before a bidder bids on your auction.
Free shipping is always best but do your own calculating on items and make sure the shipping is reasonable. Overcharging for shipping will surely make bidders go elsewhere.
Never have a "handling fee."
Always list on your auction to ask questions before bidding.
Make sure you list the forms of payments the you prefer before selling.
Ask bidders to pay within 3 days after the auction has ended.
Please leave feedback and resolve any issues before negative feedback is left. Best indoor aerial for UK Freeview
Best indoor aerial for Freeview. Best loft aerial. Outdoor aerials.
You can use absolutely ANY aerial indoors and it's easy to experiment because it doesn't involve dangerous climbing of ladders.
However, aerials indoors generally perform very poorly compared with those mounted above the roof. The reason is simple: the fabric of the walls impedes the signal AND there's a lot of interference from nearby equipment and mains wiring. Consequently, an aerial performs best if pointed towards the transmitter through a window. DON'T make the mistake of putting it close to a TV, where interference is greatest and signal is weakest. The aerial should be as far away from the TV, DVD, computer, Router, phone, fluorescent light etc. as possible, otherwise it will be swamped by interference. (You won't see the interference on the digital picture but it will make reliable reception impossible.)
If you don't know which way to point the aerial, type your UK postcode into the Wolfbane web site signal predictor page and look for the compass bearing. This page also predicts the likely signal strength. Anything below 30 dBuV/m is unlikely to work. You'll also find information and relevant links on the SatCure web site.
Indoor aerials are available, which are small and neat. However, size matters and indoor aerials are always a poor compromise. Some even have a built-in amplifier, which can boost the interference and make reception worse! So, wherever possible, test the available signal with your existing aerial or the cheapest you can buy or borrow. If it does NOT receive a stable signal on all channels then you can be certain that an indoor aerial will not.
The best aerial for all uses has been found by SatCure to be the log-periodic type. This has the advantage of a relatively constant gain across the UHF frequency spectrum and is also better at rejecting interference than the conventional Yagi type of aerial. Also, unlike the Yagi, a log-periodic has NO bulky reflector screen sticking up at the rear. This fact makes the log-periodic easier to hide on top of a cupboard, for example. When shopping for Littlest Pet Shop pets, a new buyer is often surprised by how high the prices are on eBay and at consignment. Most Littlest Pet Shop pets were originally purchased for $10-20 per set at a Wal-Mart, Target, or Toys R Us, so its disheartening that each pet often runs $5 per pet even when used. But remember, the seller on eBay is shipping you a product and even if the product is priced rather inexpensively, the mail costs are set. Because the pets can be shipped first class due to their light weight, if you are interested in a specific pet, ask your seller if they will ship to you via first class in a mailing envelop to reduce costs.
Mailing envelops can save on shipping
Second, if you are not interested in a specific pet, buy in bulk via an Littlest Pet Shop lot. The more pets you purchase at one time, the more likely you are to get a lower price per pet. You will also find a better price from someone looking to clear out their own or their child's toy box, rather than a professional eBay seller who caters to the collectors. In addition, if you are not looking to get a specific playset -- search for auctions which have pets only as the seller can ship the pets more cheaply than the pets with a setting / playhouse.
Finally, make sure that you know the state of the pets before you purchase. Look closely at pictures. Buy only from sellers who show multiple views of the pets. If you are concerned about marks on the pets, ask the seller about that. In particular, Littlest Pet Shop pets often have initials written on them -- most often on the feet, but sometimes on the back of the head. If you can't see all sides of the pet, ask the seller if there are any vandalizing marks beyond normal play or if there are any initials.
How to save money gardening
In the last couple of years, I took up gardening. It started with a new house purchase in which the previous owner allowed the whole frontyard to be overtaken by Euonymus vines and the whole backyard to fall into disarray. I was not even aware that there was a garden plot divided by stones because the vines in front were so thick.
As I began to clean up the front and back yards and add grass, I also wanted to add some visual interest with garden areas. From several owners previous, there were scattered plants that were thriving but in bad spots. So as I changed the landscape, I kept those plants and transplanted them. I was able to take peonies from the middle of the side yard and create a full garden along the side of the house. I was able to take a very large bleeding heart and divide into multiple plants in a backyard garden. But the best gardening money saver has been patience and seeds!
There are so many beautiful native plants and wildflowers out there. They are a great garden addition because they are well suited to your environment through adaptation -- therefore, they withstand the heat, the cold, the drought, etc. in your local area that can make many exotics wither and die. They are also quite often pollinator attractors, therefore helping the plight of the bees and bringing beautiful butterflies to your yard.
By planting native wildflower seeds in fall, and being patient while they establish themselves, you end up with a beautiful wild habitat for the price of a few seed packets!
As I began to clean up the front and back yards and add grass, I also wanted to add some visual interest with garden areas. From several owners previous, there were scattered plants that were thriving but in bad spots. So as I changed the landscape, I kept those plants and transplanted them. I was able to take peonies from the middle of the side yard and create a full garden along the side of the house. I was able to take a very large bleeding heart and divide into multiple plants in a backyard garden. But the best gardening money saver has been patience and seeds!
There are so many beautiful native plants and wildflowers out there. They are a great garden addition because they are well suited to your environment through adaptation -- therefore, they withstand the heat, the cold, the drought, etc. in your local area that can make many exotics wither and die. They are also quite often pollinator attractors, therefore helping the plight of the bees and bringing beautiful butterflies to your yard.
By planting native wildflower seeds in fall, and being patient while they establish themselves, you end up with a beautiful wild habitat for the price of a few seed packets!
The Old Debate Continues: Should I buy a Nitro or Poly Guitar
It seems that anywhere you look regarding the topic of guitar finishes you will inevitably run into arguments debating the merits of nitrocellulose lacquer versus just about anything else which is usually lumped into one lone category simply referred to as “poly”. As a player I strongly feel there is no perfect finish. They all have different characteristics that depending on the owner could be viewed as an asset or a liability.
NITROCELLULOSE
Most, if not all of the beloved vintage guitars from the 50’s and 60’s were finished with nitro. Most lacquers have a slightly lower level of gloss than it’s chemically cross linked counterparts. It’s usually slightly amber out of the can instead of water clear which can soften some colors. This is generally a good thing when you’re talking bursts but as it ages and yellows further it can change an opaque color to a totally different shade. Nitro. is not the most durable finish which attributes to the patina and wear it can develop over time. It can also be very disagreeable with certain guitar stands/hangers, colognes, bug spray, stickers or sometimes even sweat. There are some who love the way nitro. dulls, yellows, and checks but back when these guitars were just considered “used” those characteristics were not as revered by some and finish manufacturers in turn “fixed” these issues. Lacquers were made clearer, more flexible, the solids content increased and in turn doesn’t age exactly like the old stuff. Now I’m not claiming to have a secret stash of NOS lacquer or a proprietary recipe to mix my own old school nitro because I don’t but there are lacquers available that are closer to what was used back then, they just aren’t used by the companies who have customers complaining about sticky necks.
"POLY"
Okay, I put “poly” in quotes because it’s come to be a somewhat (if not outright) derogatory catch-all term for any finish that isn’t nitrocellulose lacquer. Doesn’t matter if it’s polyester, acrylic urethane, polyurethane enamel, UV curable acrylite, epoxy - it’s “poly” and it’s” bad”. Well, like I said earlier there is NO perfect finish and I certainly don’t think non nitro finishes are bad. They can be poorly applied but then again so can nitro. Most of these finishes are water clear and stay that way. Some folks may want a white guitar to stay white or silver metal flake guitar to maintain its “bling” factor. These finishes maintain their gloss and since they fully cure much faster than lacquer they usually keep that “new” look whereas lacquer can shrink back (deteriorate) over time allowing the grain of the wood to telegraph through the finish. Not necessarily a bad thing, just a matter of personal preference.
The most common complaint about non nitro finishes is that it’s too thick. Well it certainly can be applied thick and all those import guitars out there prove as much but with a little bit of care it can be applied as thinly as a good lacquer finish. In my years of production work my “poly” finishes averaged .009”-.012” give or take. Another misconception is that a nitro finish is automatically thin. This is not always case. I’ve stripped and re-sprayed a few factory nitro finishes that were easily double the thickness of the “poly” jobs I shoot. Just because someone sticks the words “thin skin” in front of nitro. doesn’t mean all nitro. finishes are thin.
In actuality manufacturers usually use a few different products for a “poly” finish. They start with UV curable sealer which allows them to level sand it the same day if need be. Epoxy and conventionally cured polyester sealers need more time to fully cure before they should be sanded. This step is followed by the color coat which is a very low solids (thin) acrylic urethane. This is followed by a few coats either a UV curable gloss topcoat or a clear acrylic urethane.
HYBRID
Another option is a mix. Using a catalyzed sealer underneath nitrocellulose is nothing new, ever heard of Fullerplast? It’s the sealer Fender used from the early days and for many years after, it is NOT nitro. Using a catalyzed sealer is good for folks who like the look of lacquer (and it does look good) but don’t want it to shrink back much and have the wood grain telegraph through the finish. Once again this is not right or wrong, we just want to accommodate preferences on an individual basis.
“Doesn’t nitro give you better tone?”
Easily one of the most hotly debated topics of guitar making. The notion that nitro is unequivocally the only true finish for guitars has been bandied about for so long now that it seems to have become a “fact”. It’s funny how many people I talk to that have to have nitro. but when I tell them it could check and will yellow over time they reply “Oh I didn’t know, I don’t want that”. There are a lot of great sounding vintage guitars and most vintage guitars have nitrocellulose lacquer (AKA nitro) finishes so therefore nitro. automatically makes a guitar sound better. Well there seem to be a lot of people that believe that, I’m not one of them and there are plenty of world class luithers/builders that agree. The general consensus is that all things being equal the chemical makeup of the finish does not affect the overall tone, the film thickness of the finish does. As I’ve stated above “poly” finishes can be sprayed (and are) as thinly a properly applied nitrocellulose finish. Nitro does not “breath” and like other non nitro. finishes it is also a plastic. I feel I can safely theorize that Leo Fender didn’t specify nitro. because he thought it made the guitars sound better. He used it because that’s all they had then. If he had access to the finishes that are available today you can bet your butt he would have used them and the only nitro. folks would be talking about would be drag bikes. That said we don’t dislike nitro. (well except for sanding it) and we understand that some like the way it feels, looks, and it’s repairability.
NITROCELLULOSE
Most, if not all of the beloved vintage guitars from the 50’s and 60’s were finished with nitro. Most lacquers have a slightly lower level of gloss than it’s chemically cross linked counterparts. It’s usually slightly amber out of the can instead of water clear which can soften some colors. This is generally a good thing when you’re talking bursts but as it ages and yellows further it can change an opaque color to a totally different shade. Nitro. is not the most durable finish which attributes to the patina and wear it can develop over time. It can also be very disagreeable with certain guitar stands/hangers, colognes, bug spray, stickers or sometimes even sweat. There are some who love the way nitro. dulls, yellows, and checks but back when these guitars were just considered “used” those characteristics were not as revered by some and finish manufacturers in turn “fixed” these issues. Lacquers were made clearer, more flexible, the solids content increased and in turn doesn’t age exactly like the old stuff. Now I’m not claiming to have a secret stash of NOS lacquer or a proprietary recipe to mix my own old school nitro because I don’t but there are lacquers available that are closer to what was used back then, they just aren’t used by the companies who have customers complaining about sticky necks.
"POLY"
Okay, I put “poly” in quotes because it’s come to be a somewhat (if not outright) derogatory catch-all term for any finish that isn’t nitrocellulose lacquer. Doesn’t matter if it’s polyester, acrylic urethane, polyurethane enamel, UV curable acrylite, epoxy - it’s “poly” and it’s” bad”. Well, like I said earlier there is NO perfect finish and I certainly don’t think non nitro finishes are bad. They can be poorly applied but then again so can nitro. Most of these finishes are water clear and stay that way. Some folks may want a white guitar to stay white or silver metal flake guitar to maintain its “bling” factor. These finishes maintain their gloss and since they fully cure much faster than lacquer they usually keep that “new” look whereas lacquer can shrink back (deteriorate) over time allowing the grain of the wood to telegraph through the finish. Not necessarily a bad thing, just a matter of personal preference.
The most common complaint about non nitro finishes is that it’s too thick. Well it certainly can be applied thick and all those import guitars out there prove as much but with a little bit of care it can be applied as thinly as a good lacquer finish. In my years of production work my “poly” finishes averaged .009”-.012” give or take. Another misconception is that a nitro finish is automatically thin. This is not always case. I’ve stripped and re-sprayed a few factory nitro finishes that were easily double the thickness of the “poly” jobs I shoot. Just because someone sticks the words “thin skin” in front of nitro. doesn’t mean all nitro. finishes are thin.
In actuality manufacturers usually use a few different products for a “poly” finish. They start with UV curable sealer which allows them to level sand it the same day if need be. Epoxy and conventionally cured polyester sealers need more time to fully cure before they should be sanded. This step is followed by the color coat which is a very low solids (thin) acrylic urethane. This is followed by a few coats either a UV curable gloss topcoat or a clear acrylic urethane.
HYBRID
Another option is a mix. Using a catalyzed sealer underneath nitrocellulose is nothing new, ever heard of Fullerplast? It’s the sealer Fender used from the early days and for many years after, it is NOT nitro. Using a catalyzed sealer is good for folks who like the look of lacquer (and it does look good) but don’t want it to shrink back much and have the wood grain telegraph through the finish. Once again this is not right or wrong, we just want to accommodate preferences on an individual basis.
“Doesn’t nitro give you better tone?”
Easily one of the most hotly debated topics of guitar making. The notion that nitro is unequivocally the only true finish for guitars has been bandied about for so long now that it seems to have become a “fact”. It’s funny how many people I talk to that have to have nitro. but when I tell them it could check and will yellow over time they reply “Oh I didn’t know, I don’t want that”. There are a lot of great sounding vintage guitars and most vintage guitars have nitrocellulose lacquer (AKA nitro) finishes so therefore nitro. automatically makes a guitar sound better. Well there seem to be a lot of people that believe that, I’m not one of them and there are plenty of world class luithers/builders that agree. The general consensus is that all things being equal the chemical makeup of the finish does not affect the overall tone, the film thickness of the finish does. As I’ve stated above “poly” finishes can be sprayed (and are) as thinly a properly applied nitrocellulose finish. Nitro does not “breath” and like other non nitro. finishes it is also a plastic. I feel I can safely theorize that Leo Fender didn’t specify nitro. because he thought it made the guitars sound better. He used it because that’s all they had then. If he had access to the finishes that are available today you can bet your butt he would have used them and the only nitro. folks would be talking about would be drag bikes. That said we don’t dislike nitro. (well except for sanding it) and we understand that some like the way it feels, looks, and it’s repairability.
Homey Dorm Essentials
A few essentials for a freshman
Mini Fridge (with freezer!) I found that having a freezer in your selected mini fridge will come in handy as the semester goes on, if not for that late night ice cream party or to have an ice pack in case of injury. It's well worth the extra money, and even then, they can be found at a very affordable price. The fridge I specfically purchased can be found at the link below.
Headboard - I found that having a headboard for that extra long twin bed that comes in most dorms made all the difference for me. It's nice to lean up against when you're cramming for that test you have tomorrow morning, and it makes the room feel 100% more like home without that huge gap between your pillow and mattress and the wall. These can be handmade with a piece of plywood, stuffing, cloth, and a nail gun, but you can also purchase it off of ebay, the link below.
Printer - This is something a lot of freshmen don't think about coming into college, as most colleges have computer labs. However, the convenience of having your own printer is extraordinary, and if you don't have your own you will more than likely regret it. If you're late and you need to print off that last minute homework assignment, having your own printer accessible to you right there will indeed come in handy. It is a definite must have
Rug - A definite essential, and a mistake that I made by not getting one initially. It's amazing what a difference a rug can make in a dorm room. Most dorm rooms are not carpeted, and a nice, warm rug to come back to after a long stressful day of class can make all the difference. In my opinion, it completes a room. Rugs are inexpensive, and can help add that final touch to your dorm room to give it that homey feel!
Mini Fridge (with freezer!) I found that having a freezer in your selected mini fridge will come in handy as the semester goes on, if not for that late night ice cream party or to have an ice pack in case of injury. It's well worth the extra money, and even then, they can be found at a very affordable price. The fridge I specfically purchased can be found at the link below.
Headboard - I found that having a headboard for that extra long twin bed that comes in most dorms made all the difference for me. It's nice to lean up against when you're cramming for that test you have tomorrow morning, and it makes the room feel 100% more like home without that huge gap between your pillow and mattress and the wall. These can be handmade with a piece of plywood, stuffing, cloth, and a nail gun, but you can also purchase it off of ebay, the link below.
Printer - This is something a lot of freshmen don't think about coming into college, as most colleges have computer labs. However, the convenience of having your own printer is extraordinary, and if you don't have your own you will more than likely regret it. If you're late and you need to print off that last minute homework assignment, having your own printer accessible to you right there will indeed come in handy. It is a definite must have
Rug - A definite essential, and a mistake that I made by not getting one initially. It's amazing what a difference a rug can make in a dorm room. Most dorm rooms are not carpeted, and a nice, warm rug to come back to after a long stressful day of class can make all the difference. In my opinion, it completes a room. Rugs are inexpensive, and can help add that final touch to your dorm room to give it that homey feel!
Abonnieren
Posts (Atom)