It seems that anywhere you look regarding the topic of guitar finishes you will inevitably run into arguments debating the merits of nitrocellulose lacquer versus just about anything else which is usually lumped into one lone category simply referred to as “poly”. As a player I strongly feel there is no perfect finish. They all have different characteristics that depending on the owner could be viewed as an asset or a liability.
NITROCELLULOSE
Most, if not all of the beloved vintage guitars from the 50’s and 60’s were finished with nitro. Most lacquers have a slightly lower level of gloss than it’s chemically cross linked counterparts. It’s usually slightly amber out of the can instead of water clear which can soften some colors. This is generally a good thing when you’re talking bursts but as it ages and yellows further it can change an opaque color to a totally different shade. Nitro. is not the most durable finish which attributes to the patina and wear it can develop over time. It can also be very disagreeable with certain guitar stands/hangers, colognes, bug spray, stickers or sometimes even sweat. There are some who love the way nitro. dulls, yellows, and checks but back when these guitars were just considered “used” those characteristics were not as revered by some and finish manufacturers in turn “fixed” these issues. Lacquers were made clearer, more flexible, the solids content increased and in turn doesn’t age exactly like the old stuff. Now I’m not claiming to have a secret stash of NOS lacquer or a proprietary recipe to mix my own old school nitro because I don’t but there are lacquers available that are closer to what was used back then, they just aren’t used by the companies who have customers complaining about sticky necks.
"POLY"
Okay, I put “poly” in quotes because it’s come to be a somewhat (if not outright) derogatory catch-all term for any finish that isn’t nitrocellulose lacquer. Doesn’t matter if it’s polyester, acrylic urethane, polyurethane enamel, UV curable acrylite, epoxy - it’s “poly” and it’s” bad”. Well, like I said earlier there is NO perfect finish and I certainly don’t think non nitro finishes are bad. They can be poorly applied but then again so can nitro. Most of these finishes are water clear and stay that way. Some folks may want a white guitar to stay white or silver metal flake guitar to maintain its “bling” factor. These finishes maintain their gloss and since they fully cure much faster than lacquer they usually keep that “new” look whereas lacquer can shrink back (deteriorate) over time allowing the grain of the wood to telegraph through the finish. Not necessarily a bad thing, just a matter of personal preference.
The most common complaint about non nitro finishes is that it’s too thick. Well it certainly can be applied thick and all those import guitars out there prove as much but with a little bit of care it can be applied as thinly as a good lacquer finish. In my years of production work my “poly” finishes averaged .009”-.012” give or take. Another misconception is that a nitro finish is automatically thin. This is not always case. I’ve stripped and re-sprayed a few factory nitro finishes that were easily double the thickness of the “poly” jobs I shoot. Just because someone sticks the words “thin skin” in front of nitro. doesn’t mean all nitro. finishes are thin.
In actuality manufacturers usually use a few different products for a “poly” finish. They start with UV curable sealer which allows them to level sand it the same day if need be. Epoxy and conventionally cured polyester sealers need more time to fully cure before they should be sanded. This step is followed by the color coat which is a very low solids (thin) acrylic urethane. This is followed by a few coats either a UV curable gloss topcoat or a clear acrylic urethane.
HYBRID
Another option is a mix. Using a catalyzed sealer underneath nitrocellulose is nothing new, ever heard of Fullerplast? It’s the sealer Fender used from the early days and for many years after, it is NOT nitro. Using a catalyzed sealer is good for folks who like the look of lacquer (and it does look good) but don’t want it to shrink back much and have the wood grain telegraph through the finish. Once again this is not right or wrong, we just want to accommodate preferences on an individual basis.
“Doesn’t nitro give you better tone?”
Easily one of the most hotly debated topics of guitar making. The notion that nitro is unequivocally the only true finish for guitars has been bandied about for so long now that it seems to have become a “fact”. It’s funny how many people I talk to that have to have nitro. but when I tell them it could check and will yellow over time they reply “Oh I didn’t know, I don’t want that”. There are a lot of great sounding vintage guitars and most vintage guitars have nitrocellulose lacquer (AKA nitro) finishes so therefore nitro. automatically makes a guitar sound better. Well there seem to be a lot of people that believe that, I’m not one of them and there are plenty of world class luithers/builders that agree. The general consensus is that all things being equal the chemical makeup of the finish does not affect the overall tone, the film thickness of the finish does. As I’ve stated above “poly” finishes can be sprayed (and are) as thinly a properly applied nitrocellulose finish. Nitro does not “breath” and like other non nitro. finishes it is also a plastic. I feel I can safely theorize that Leo Fender didn’t specify nitro. because he thought it made the guitars sound better. He used it because that’s all they had then. If he had access to the finishes that are available today you can bet your butt he would have used them and the only nitro. folks would be talking about would be drag bikes. That said we don’t dislike nitro. (well except for sanding it) and we understand that some like the way it feels, looks, and it’s repairability.
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Sonntag, 18. Mai 2014
Donnerstag, 8. Mai 2014
I need fewer hassles in my life, not more
eBay wants to screw with me, so fine. I've decided to limit myself to only the few listings that I know sell regularly. They want to limit me to 45 listings per month. I'm limiting myself to 5 listings per month. Why should I give my hard earned money to a company that doesn't feel like they have to earn it.
One thing is certain, I do a much better job of taking care of my customers than eBay does. I really wish the sellers could organize a boycott eBay month.It's already happening. The vintage categories are pale shadows of what they have been because those sellers have wised up and moved to another site that has cheaper fees, a level playing field for sellers, better quality of buyers and a much better policy set up that doesn't change evey couple of months to go out of it's way to punish sellers.
And don't think that ebay hasn't noticed that the other site has gone from little alt site to one of the top 10 selling sites on the net. I pump most of my payments from sales there through paypal so ebay can clearly see just how much money they could have been making if they had treated me better.Sarcasim, huh? Bottom line is that there are other things more important in life. I listed, in the past, as many as 400 items (most sold) every month. Not a monster account but substantial. Over the years, I've found myself jumping through more and more eBay hoops and the profit going down and down.
A month ago, I got a "wake-up call" when my wife had a heart attack ( She's doing fine now thanks to fast Cardio Surgery but ladies, the TV ads are true: there was NO warning!) but when I weighed all the aggravation that eBay, the Postal Service AND some buyers who are just this side of idiots, and all of a sudden it doesn't matter anymore.
I'm in the process of liquidating my inventory and USAirways, United Airlines and Hilton will be getting more of my time, $$$, and attention.
Our personal episode showed me that this just isn't worth the nightmares anymore, and OP, I feel your frustration. Good luck to you all.
One thing is certain, I do a much better job of taking care of my customers than eBay does. I really wish the sellers could organize a boycott eBay month.It's already happening. The vintage categories are pale shadows of what they have been because those sellers have wised up and moved to another site that has cheaper fees, a level playing field for sellers, better quality of buyers and a much better policy set up that doesn't change evey couple of months to go out of it's way to punish sellers.
And don't think that ebay hasn't noticed that the other site has gone from little alt site to one of the top 10 selling sites on the net. I pump most of my payments from sales there through paypal so ebay can clearly see just how much money they could have been making if they had treated me better.Sarcasim, huh? Bottom line is that there are other things more important in life. I listed, in the past, as many as 400 items (most sold) every month. Not a monster account but substantial. Over the years, I've found myself jumping through more and more eBay hoops and the profit going down and down.
A month ago, I got a "wake-up call" when my wife had a heart attack ( She's doing fine now thanks to fast Cardio Surgery but ladies, the TV ads are true: there was NO warning!) but when I weighed all the aggravation that eBay, the Postal Service AND some buyers who are just this side of idiots, and all of a sudden it doesn't matter anymore.
I'm in the process of liquidating my inventory and USAirways, United Airlines and Hilton will be getting more of my time, $$$, and attention.
Our personal episode showed me that this just isn't worth the nightmares anymore, and OP, I feel your frustration. Good luck to you all.
Sonntag, 27. April 2014
Why Radius Polepieces On Guitar Pickups?
Where sound and frequencies are an important issue to the player we'll request guitar pickups with adjustable pole pieces. The strings and neck have a radius and so should the guitars pickups. Consistency is important. Equal distance of strings to pickups gives equal volume and therefore a more consistent volume level for each note played. The results are more even frequencies, more consistent sound, better tone, less unwanted feedback, even volume, more responsive pick up control, better sustain and more clarity in the overall sound of an electric guitar. At Haywire Custom Guitars in the custom Shop we radius the strings to the pole pieces for a better overall sound. Info provided by: Haywire Custom Guitars
Haywire Custom Guitars has developed an 8-point "Gig-Ready guitar process
Haywire Custom Guitars has developed an 8-point "Gig-Ready guitar process that ensures all Haywire guitars are ready to rock from day one. With many years of development and guitar set-up experience, we pride ourselves in building you a guitar that is just right for you at prices way below market.
We offer a wide choice of body colors, hardware, pickups as well as super wide and fat guitar necks to thin and slim to make your guitar a true custom. Select from 21 fret, 22 fret or 24 fret guitar necks! At Haywire Custom Guitars, we're....
At Haywire Custom Shop We're..............
"Building satisfied players... one Haywire guitar at a time"
Point 1: 4-axis alignment of the guitars neck Each guitars neck is checked and adjusted to be sure it is true and straight to provide a proper alignment on all axis. This step promotes even action and allows for more accurate and easier guitar tuning, playing, and set-up in the following steps.
Point 2: Inspect and lube the guitars tuning gears
Before installing the guitars tuning gears, each one is checked thoroughly. Each tuning gear is adjusted so that there is no play in the mechanism. They are each lubricated to enable smooth and even movement so your guitar will tune accurately.
Point 3: Potting the guitars pickups
We dip the pickups in hot wax to reduce squeal and unwanted guitar feedback.
Point 4: Prep the guitars body
Upon installing the guitars electronic components, great care is taken to ensure that all wires are properly routed, spaced, and grounded to enhance years of trouble-free service with your guitar.
Point 5: Level and polish the frets
This step provides assurance that all of the guitars frets are level, eliminating any possibility of fret buzz due to unevenness.
Point 6: Radius the guitars strings
Most guitar necks have a contour over the top of the neck called the radius. We adjust the strings to make sure the height of each string follows the contour of the guitars neck radius.
Point 7: Adjusting the overall guitar string height and the action
Once we set the contour and radius of the guitars strings, it’s time to adjust the overall height of the strings from the top of the frets to the bottom of the guitars strings.
Point 8: Set the guitars intonation
This step is done twice. The intonation is set two times, with a 24 hour "seat-in" period in between, to allow the guitar to properly re-seat to the new adjustments
Haywire Custom Guitars has developed an 8-point "Gig-Ready guitar process
Haywire Custom Guitars has developed an 8-point "Gig-Ready guitar process that ensures all Haywire guitars are ready to rock from day one. With many years of development and guitar set-up experience, we pride ourselves in building you a guitar that is just right for you at prices way below market.
We offer a wide choice of body colors, hardware, pickups as well as super wide and fat guitar necks to thin and slim to make your guitar a true custom. Select from 21 fret, 22 fret or 24 fret guitar necks! At Haywire Custom Guitars, we're....
At Haywire Custom Shop We're..............
"Building satisfied players... one Haywire guitar at a time"
Point 1: 4-axis alignment of the guitars neck Each guitars neck is checked and adjusted to be sure it is true and straight to provide a proper alignment on all axis. This step promotes even action and allows for more accurate and easier guitar tuning, playing, and set-up in the following steps.
Point 2: Inspect and lube the guitars tuning gears
Before installing the guitars tuning gears, each one is checked thoroughly. Each tuning gear is adjusted so that there is no play in the mechanism. They are each lubricated to enable smooth and even movement so your guitar will tune accurately.
Point 3: Potting the guitars pickups
We dip the pickups in hot wax to reduce squeal and unwanted guitar feedback.
Point 4: Prep the guitars body
Upon installing the guitars electronic components, great care is taken to ensure that all wires are properly routed, spaced, and grounded to enhance years of trouble-free service with your guitar.
Point 5: Level and polish the frets
This step provides assurance that all of the guitars frets are level, eliminating any possibility of fret buzz due to unevenness.
Point 6: Radius the guitars strings
Most guitar necks have a contour over the top of the neck called the radius. We adjust the strings to make sure the height of each string follows the contour of the guitars neck radius.
Point 7: Adjusting the overall guitar string height and the action
Once we set the contour and radius of the guitars strings, it’s time to adjust the overall height of the strings from the top of the frets to the bottom of the guitars strings.
Point 8: Set the guitars intonation
This step is done twice. The intonation is set two times, with a 24 hour "seat-in" period in between, to allow the guitar to properly re-seat to the new adjustments
How To Straighten A Guitar Neck With An Adjustable Truss Rod
How To Straighten A Guitar Neck With An Adjustable Truss Rod
By Haywire Custom Guitars
Source: Haywire Custom Guitars Inc. In most cases, the neck of a guitar is adjustable. Although the wood is generally hard, dry and stiff it will still bend with string pressure and humidity or lack thereof. In our shop we have to deal with that issue on a daily basis. Inside the neck is a routed channel between the finger board and the neck shaft where a truss rod is placed to compensate for movement on the forward axis of the neck to add stability. The rod is steel and is adjustable. It runs the length of the guitar neck with an opening at one end allowing for adjustments. The truss rod both strengthens the neck and facilitates an adjustment called "relief" in the neck. A bowed or humped neck can be reversed with skillful manipulation by the adjuster-you.
All guitar necks are subject to great stress. This is sometimes the result of seasonal change, Other times when a neck could take on a slight bow or hump are from string changes with gauges higher than normally used. A guitar player will usually know a little about how to make some adjustments on his guitar. Some things he does however may contribute to a misaligned neck. Several of the "usual problems" seen are heavier gauge strings which increases the froward pressure, removing all of the strings at once and leaving guitars in a hot car. These actions will cause immediate negative pull and the will revert naturally back to where it started. However, if it does, there is a solution if you follow the procedure below for proper repositioning of a bowed neck. In our Custom shop this is the procedure we use.
First, loosen all the strings but you will not have to remove them. Push the loose strings to one side to gain access to neck adjuster. Remove cover, so neck adjuster is exposed. It's either an Allen screw or a hex nut. Look down the neck from the top where the tuners are located towards the bridge (similar to sighting a down the barrel of a gun) to see how much of a bow or hump the neck has in it.
It is recommended to use a Notched Straightedge to see how far out of alignment the neck really is. The notches are on both side of the tool. One side has cutouts for a 24-3/4" scale neck and the other is for the most common 25-1/2" scale. They are there so frets can be avoided when the tool comes in contact with the fret board. The frets fit neatly in the cut out and the straight edge will show any problems when it lies straight on the fret board.
At this point, if it is discovered that the neck is out of adjustment, it's time to go to work. Insert the Allen key or hex wrench in the Allen slot or on the adjustment nut and turn very gently in small increments at a time. Checking the neck as you proceed with each nut turn is required. Once the neck is straight keep adjusting a bit more to compensate for the tension the stings will add once they are re-tuned to pitch. Turn right or clockwise for " BOW " alternately left or counter clockwise for a HUMP. Take special care as not to tighten the nut too much because it could result in a broken truss rod, stripped threads and a much larger monetary outlay than originally intended.
On some "Vintage Guitars" the adjustment of the truss rod is made at the end of the fingerboard called the Heel or Butt end. The adjustment is the same but in a different location.
This should fix the problem! If there seems to be an inordinate amount of "string buzz" that you find impossible to live with bring it in to your guitar tech for further inspection. If the neck has a "twist" it can void the neck straightening process you have just used and will need attention from a Luthier.
Rick Mariner - Owner, founder and CEO of Haywire Custom Guitars Inc.( Haywire Custom Guitars.com ) and a member of The Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans (A.S.I.A.) as well as a guitar player. He holds a bachelors degree from University of Md. and a Masters degree from George Washington University.
Haywire developed an 8 - Point "Gig- Ready" guitar process that allows for Haywire Custom Guitars that are "GIG-READY".
With many years of development and guitar set-up experience, we pride ourselves in helping to build you the "Just Right" Haywire guitar for you at prices well below market. Haywire Custom Guitars, "Builds satisfied players... one Haywire guitar at a time".
By Haywire Custom Guitars
Source: Haywire Custom Guitars Inc. In most cases, the neck of a guitar is adjustable. Although the wood is generally hard, dry and stiff it will still bend with string pressure and humidity or lack thereof. In our shop we have to deal with that issue on a daily basis. Inside the neck is a routed channel between the finger board and the neck shaft where a truss rod is placed to compensate for movement on the forward axis of the neck to add stability. The rod is steel and is adjustable. It runs the length of the guitar neck with an opening at one end allowing for adjustments. The truss rod both strengthens the neck and facilitates an adjustment called "relief" in the neck. A bowed or humped neck can be reversed with skillful manipulation by the adjuster-you.
All guitar necks are subject to great stress. This is sometimes the result of seasonal change, Other times when a neck could take on a slight bow or hump are from string changes with gauges higher than normally used. A guitar player will usually know a little about how to make some adjustments on his guitar. Some things he does however may contribute to a misaligned neck. Several of the "usual problems" seen are heavier gauge strings which increases the froward pressure, removing all of the strings at once and leaving guitars in a hot car. These actions will cause immediate negative pull and the will revert naturally back to where it started. However, if it does, there is a solution if you follow the procedure below for proper repositioning of a bowed neck. In our Custom shop this is the procedure we use.
First, loosen all the strings but you will not have to remove them. Push the loose strings to one side to gain access to neck adjuster. Remove cover, so neck adjuster is exposed. It's either an Allen screw or a hex nut. Look down the neck from the top where the tuners are located towards the bridge (similar to sighting a down the barrel of a gun) to see how much of a bow or hump the neck has in it.
It is recommended to use a Notched Straightedge to see how far out of alignment the neck really is. The notches are on both side of the tool. One side has cutouts for a 24-3/4" scale neck and the other is for the most common 25-1/2" scale. They are there so frets can be avoided when the tool comes in contact with the fret board. The frets fit neatly in the cut out and the straight edge will show any problems when it lies straight on the fret board.
At this point, if it is discovered that the neck is out of adjustment, it's time to go to work. Insert the Allen key or hex wrench in the Allen slot or on the adjustment nut and turn very gently in small increments at a time. Checking the neck as you proceed with each nut turn is required. Once the neck is straight keep adjusting a bit more to compensate for the tension the stings will add once they are re-tuned to pitch. Turn right or clockwise for " BOW " alternately left or counter clockwise for a HUMP. Take special care as not to tighten the nut too much because it could result in a broken truss rod, stripped threads and a much larger monetary outlay than originally intended.
On some "Vintage Guitars" the adjustment of the truss rod is made at the end of the fingerboard called the Heel or Butt end. The adjustment is the same but in a different location.
This should fix the problem! If there seems to be an inordinate amount of "string buzz" that you find impossible to live with bring it in to your guitar tech for further inspection. If the neck has a "twist" it can void the neck straightening process you have just used and will need attention from a Luthier.
Rick Mariner - Owner, founder and CEO of Haywire Custom Guitars Inc.( Haywire Custom Guitars.com ) and a member of The Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans (A.S.I.A.) as well as a guitar player. He holds a bachelors degree from University of Md. and a Masters degree from George Washington University.
Haywire developed an 8 - Point "Gig- Ready" guitar process that allows for Haywire Custom Guitars that are "GIG-READY".
With many years of development and guitar set-up experience, we pride ourselves in helping to build you the "Just Right" Haywire guitar for you at prices well below market. Haywire Custom Guitars, "Builds satisfied players... one Haywire guitar at a time".
Has Your Guitar Become Difficult To Play ?
Has your guitar become a little difficult to play sometimes? Does it sound,"out of tune"? Are the strings too high off the neck? Is the neck warped or bowed? Are the tuning gears difficult to turn? Are moving parts rusty? It could be that your guitar needs a tune up!
A hard to play guitar could be a roadblock to your success as a musician, so if you want your guitar to play better and faster, let Haywire prep your guitar with our " 8 Point Gig Ready Process".
It's like getting it ready for the Grand Prix! This is the same process that we perform on all of our new instruments, and it will put your “baby” back in shape, and allow you to play fast and in tune up and down the fret board like never before!
You can also give your favorite guitar a make-over by selecting from our guitar upgrades page. Change your hardware, pick ups, tuners, or even add a new neck. We can shave your existing one to allow smaller hands and fingers to play with the same advantages as a guitar player with much larger hands.
Bring your guitar back from the dead with a well-deserved tune up from Haywire Custom Guitars! This includes cleaning the electronics, the fret board, tightening any loose hardware, adding the proper washers to the input jack and tightening it to make sure it stays tight, re-stringing, adjusting the truss rod, cleaning and adjusting nut slots, set string height and intonation! See our whole process below. Please feel free to inquire about how we can help you be a better player!
Haywire 8-Point Gig-Ready Process
Explanation of the Haywire Custom Guitars 8-Point Gig-Ready Process:
Point 1: 4-axis alignment of the guitar neck
Each guitar neck is checked and adjusted to be sure it is true and straight to ensure proper alignment on all axis. This step ensures proper action and allows for more accurate and easier guitar tuning, playing and set-up in the following steps.
Point 2: Inspect and lube the guitar tuning gears
Before installing the guitar tuning gears, each one is checked thoroughly. Each tuning gear is adjusted so that there is no play in the mechanism. They are then lubricated to insure smooth and even movement to make your guitar tune accurately.
Point 3: Potting the guitar pickups
We dip the pickups in hot wax to reduce squeal and unwanted guitar feedback.
Point 4: Prep the guitar body
Upon installing the guitar electronic components, great care is taken to ensure that all wires are properly routed, spaced, and grounded to ensure years of trouble free service with your guitar.
Point 5: Level and polish the frets
This insures that all of the guitar frets are level, eliminating any possibility of fret buzz due to unevenness.
Point 6: Radius the guitar strings
Most guitar necks have a contour over the top of the neck called the radius. We adjust the strings to make sure the height of each string follows the contour of the guitar neck radius.
Point 7: Adjusting the overall guitar string height and the action
Once we set the contour and radius of the guitar strings, it’s time to adjust the overall height of the strings from the top of the frets to the bottom of the guitar strings.
Point 8: Set the guitar intonation
This step is done twice. The intonation is set two times with a 24 hour "seat-in" period in between to allow the guitar to properly re-seat to the new adjustments.
A hard to play guitar could be a roadblock to your success as a musician, so if you want your guitar to play better and faster, let Haywire prep your guitar with our " 8 Point Gig Ready Process".
It's like getting it ready for the Grand Prix! This is the same process that we perform on all of our new instruments, and it will put your “baby” back in shape, and allow you to play fast and in tune up and down the fret board like never before!
You can also give your favorite guitar a make-over by selecting from our guitar upgrades page. Change your hardware, pick ups, tuners, or even add a new neck. We can shave your existing one to allow smaller hands and fingers to play with the same advantages as a guitar player with much larger hands.
Bring your guitar back from the dead with a well-deserved tune up from Haywire Custom Guitars! This includes cleaning the electronics, the fret board, tightening any loose hardware, adding the proper washers to the input jack and tightening it to make sure it stays tight, re-stringing, adjusting the truss rod, cleaning and adjusting nut slots, set string height and intonation! See our whole process below. Please feel free to inquire about how we can help you be a better player!
Haywire 8-Point Gig-Ready Process
Explanation of the Haywire Custom Guitars 8-Point Gig-Ready Process:
Point 1: 4-axis alignment of the guitar neck
Each guitar neck is checked and adjusted to be sure it is true and straight to ensure proper alignment on all axis. This step ensures proper action and allows for more accurate and easier guitar tuning, playing and set-up in the following steps.
Point 2: Inspect and lube the guitar tuning gears
Before installing the guitar tuning gears, each one is checked thoroughly. Each tuning gear is adjusted so that there is no play in the mechanism. They are then lubricated to insure smooth and even movement to make your guitar tune accurately.
Point 3: Potting the guitar pickups
We dip the pickups in hot wax to reduce squeal and unwanted guitar feedback.
Point 4: Prep the guitar body
Upon installing the guitar electronic components, great care is taken to ensure that all wires are properly routed, spaced, and grounded to ensure years of trouble free service with your guitar.
Point 5: Level and polish the frets
This insures that all of the guitar frets are level, eliminating any possibility of fret buzz due to unevenness.
Point 6: Radius the guitar strings
Most guitar necks have a contour over the top of the neck called the radius. We adjust the strings to make sure the height of each string follows the contour of the guitar neck radius.
Point 7: Adjusting the overall guitar string height and the action
Once we set the contour and radius of the guitar strings, it’s time to adjust the overall height of the strings from the top of the frets to the bottom of the guitar strings.
Point 8: Set the guitar intonation
This step is done twice. The intonation is set two times with a 24 hour "seat-in" period in between to allow the guitar to properly re-seat to the new adjustments.
What is a Guitar Setup and Do You Need One?
When is it necessary to "set up" a guitar?
When a guitar is set up properly you’ll notice: The guitar will feel and sound its best all the strings will sound with exactly the notes they are supposed to. All notes will sound correct when played at each fret up and down the neck. The guitar will be easy to play. Strings will break less frequently. If a guitar plays easily and sounds its best then it's easy for the player to feel the music and play well.
What difference does a guitar set up make?
When a guitar is not set up properly you’ll notice: The guitar may not feel or sound quite right. Some notes may sound correct while some others may sound sharp or flat. The guitar may be difficult to play. Strings will break more often.
How is a set up accomplished?
Adjusting action at the bridge:
Adjusting the action at the bridge for easier play makes a difference. The bridge saddles should be lowered if the string action is too high, that is, the strings are too far up off the fretboard. In some cases it may be desirable to raise the saddles for a higher string action.
Lower the saddles too much and the strings might rattle against certain frets (this may or may not be inconsequential on an electric guitar; listen through an amplifier). In more extreme cases, pressing a string against one fret might actually fret the string against a different fret, usually the one under the intended one. In both cases, filing the frets might alleviate the problem if the saddle really should be that low. Otherwise, simply raising the saddle a small amount on the side with the problem should be fine.
Filing frets
Filing frets should only be done by a qualified repair person and only to correct problems with frets buzzing or strings being presssed at the wrong fret (see "adjusting action at the bridge" above).
Filing the nut
Filing the nut should only be done by a qualified repair person and is used to reduce pressure at the nut to allow a heavier gauge of strings to be used.
Neck/truss rod adjustment
This particular adjustment has been known to ruin guitars when performed incorrectly, so here referral to a professional repair person is highly recommended. A guitar will need a truss rod adjustment if the neck is not straight. One way to check the straightness of the neck is to play 12th and 19th harmonics on the low and high strings. After sounding each harmonic, fret the note there and play it again: it should be exactly the same pitch. If it is not, the neck may be in need of adjustment. However, this may be indicative of an intonation problem as well, give the guitar to a repair person.
Adjusting intonation
You may notice each string on the bridge sits in a "saddle". Depending on your setup, you might notice the saddles may be in different positions: some might be pushed forward and others might be pushed back, sometimes slightly. The positioning of the saddle effectively changes the length of the vibrating string. Tune the guitar to concert pitch with the aid of an electronic tuner, making sure the open strings are perfectly in tune. Play the 9th and 12th fret harmonics, then play the fretted notes. If the fretted notes are sharp, the string is too short and the saddle needs to be pushed back toward the base of the bridge. If the note is flat, the string is too long and the saddle needs to be pushed up toward the nut. Repeat this procedure for each string. Adjusting the intonation should be done every few months or at least twice a year.
When a guitar is set up properly you’ll notice: The guitar will feel and sound its best all the strings will sound with exactly the notes they are supposed to. All notes will sound correct when played at each fret up and down the neck. The guitar will be easy to play. Strings will break less frequently. If a guitar plays easily and sounds its best then it's easy for the player to feel the music and play well.
What difference does a guitar set up make?
When a guitar is not set up properly you’ll notice: The guitar may not feel or sound quite right. Some notes may sound correct while some others may sound sharp or flat. The guitar may be difficult to play. Strings will break more often.
How is a set up accomplished?
Adjusting action at the bridge:
Adjusting the action at the bridge for easier play makes a difference. The bridge saddles should be lowered if the string action is too high, that is, the strings are too far up off the fretboard. In some cases it may be desirable to raise the saddles for a higher string action.
Lower the saddles too much and the strings might rattle against certain frets (this may or may not be inconsequential on an electric guitar; listen through an amplifier). In more extreme cases, pressing a string against one fret might actually fret the string against a different fret, usually the one under the intended one. In both cases, filing the frets might alleviate the problem if the saddle really should be that low. Otherwise, simply raising the saddle a small amount on the side with the problem should be fine.
Filing frets
Filing frets should only be done by a qualified repair person and only to correct problems with frets buzzing or strings being presssed at the wrong fret (see "adjusting action at the bridge" above).
Filing the nut
Filing the nut should only be done by a qualified repair person and is used to reduce pressure at the nut to allow a heavier gauge of strings to be used.
Neck/truss rod adjustment
This particular adjustment has been known to ruin guitars when performed incorrectly, so here referral to a professional repair person is highly recommended. A guitar will need a truss rod adjustment if the neck is not straight. One way to check the straightness of the neck is to play 12th and 19th harmonics on the low and high strings. After sounding each harmonic, fret the note there and play it again: it should be exactly the same pitch. If it is not, the neck may be in need of adjustment. However, this may be indicative of an intonation problem as well, give the guitar to a repair person.
Adjusting intonation
You may notice each string on the bridge sits in a "saddle". Depending on your setup, you might notice the saddles may be in different positions: some might be pushed forward and others might be pushed back, sometimes slightly. The positioning of the saddle effectively changes the length of the vibrating string. Tune the guitar to concert pitch with the aid of an electronic tuner, making sure the open strings are perfectly in tune. Play the 9th and 12th fret harmonics, then play the fretted notes. If the fretted notes are sharp, the string is too short and the saddle needs to be pushed back toward the base of the bridge. If the note is flat, the string is too long and the saddle needs to be pushed up toward the nut. Repeat this procedure for each string. Adjusting the intonation should be done every few months or at least twice a year.
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