Search eBay for the handbag you want to buy. Entering specific search criteria on eBay may help you find the exact type of handbag you want to purchase.
Browse the handbag search results. EBay will then display items being sold that match your search criteria with the prices and photos for each handbag.
Click on a handbag listing to view details for that item. You will then be taken to a page that displays a complete description of the handbag.
Examine photographs of the handbag. A seller's photographs may help you in determining if the handbag is authentic and in the condition as promised in the listing description.
Contact the handbag's manufacturer directly to confirm specific features. For example, if a handbag looks appealing, but some details are questionable, such as the color, the manufacturer will be able to confirm if they ever released a handbag of that style.
Click "Add to Cart" "Buy it Now" "Bid" Once you have won you will then need to pay for it.
Posts mit dem Label DSR werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen
Posts mit dem Label DSR werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen
Freitag, 9. Mai 2014
Top Five Best Nail Polish Brands to Buy Online!
My top five favorite nail polish brands of all time that you can only get on the internet
If you're new to the nail polish world, then it might seem overwhelming to jump right in and buy a brand new brand that you've never heard of before. I'm writing this guide so you have some idea of the best brands that are out there in my opinion. I started with drugstore nail polish, then started joining groups on Facebook and learned so much from there! I hope this helps!
#1 Julep
Julep is definitely the start to any unhealthy nail polish addition. Buy at your own risk! I LOVE Julep, and you can get some great lots and deals on Ebay. Beware though, you need to watch for the fill lines on the bottle, because a NEW bottle will not have a fill line. If the polish is used, even just once, it will have one, because the bottles are so small. This is a great brand though, with lots of colors and limited edition polishes!
#2 Zoya
Zoya is my second favorite nail polish brand. They are pretty affordable, and come in tons of great colors! They apply GREAT no matter if they are cream, metallic, or pixie dust. The Pixie Dust ones are my favorite.
#3 Butter London
Butter London is a GREAT brand. They are a little bit more on the expensive side, but you pay for quality here. I really like the shape of the bottle, it makes it infinitely easier to apply the polish. They have the best formula too, and the smaller brushes make them a breeze to apply.
Pretty & Polished - Day in the Park (Blue) and Be Mine (Yellow)
#4 Pretty & Polished
This is my favorite indie nail polish brand. An indie nailpolish is essentially a handmade polish. They are generally a little bit more expensive than others, but it's worth it because you can get some really great stuff. Pretty & Polished is a great place to start if you are new to the indie world.
#5 Enchanted
These are the best of the best in the indie nail polish world. Word on the street is they have the best formula ever and are essentially worth their weight in gold. If you have the money to spare. Might as well buy them all.
If you're new to the nail polish world, then it might seem overwhelming to jump right in and buy a brand new brand that you've never heard of before. I'm writing this guide so you have some idea of the best brands that are out there in my opinion. I started with drugstore nail polish, then started joining groups on Facebook and learned so much from there! I hope this helps!
#1 Julep
Julep is definitely the start to any unhealthy nail polish addition. Buy at your own risk! I LOVE Julep, and you can get some great lots and deals on Ebay. Beware though, you need to watch for the fill lines on the bottle, because a NEW bottle will not have a fill line. If the polish is used, even just once, it will have one, because the bottles are so small. This is a great brand though, with lots of colors and limited edition polishes!
#2 Zoya
Zoya is my second favorite nail polish brand. They are pretty affordable, and come in tons of great colors! They apply GREAT no matter if they are cream, metallic, or pixie dust. The Pixie Dust ones are my favorite.
#3 Butter London
Butter London is a GREAT brand. They are a little bit more on the expensive side, but you pay for quality here. I really like the shape of the bottle, it makes it infinitely easier to apply the polish. They have the best formula too, and the smaller brushes make them a breeze to apply.
Pretty & Polished - Day in the Park (Blue) and Be Mine (Yellow)
#4 Pretty & Polished
This is my favorite indie nail polish brand. An indie nailpolish is essentially a handmade polish. They are generally a little bit more expensive than others, but it's worth it because you can get some really great stuff. Pretty & Polished is a great place to start if you are new to the indie world.
#5 Enchanted
These are the best of the best in the indie nail polish world. Word on the street is they have the best formula ever and are essentially worth their weight in gold. If you have the money to spare. Might as well buy them all.
Donnerstag, 8. Mai 2014
My UID opened automatically
and the buyer has sent email: "changed mind, husband didn't like the tote."
So I am willing to cancel transaction, until reading this:
To close the case in the Resolution Center:
Go to the Resolution Center and log in.
Select the case to be closed.
Select one of the following options to close the case:
The buyer and I have completed this transaction successfully. [We have not]
I want to end communication with the buyer. [No, she would like to cancel transaction.]
Enter any final comments in the message box.
Click Close Case.
Timeline:
Close your case within 60 days of the transaction.
If the buyer agrees to cancel the transaction, we'll credit your final value fee to your account.
On the 61st day after the end of the transaction, if you haven't closed your case, we automatically close it and you don't receive a final value fee credit.
Once your case is closed, you can't reopen it.
Things to keep in mind:
You must close the case in the Resolution Center in order to receive a final value fee credit.
Once the case is closed, you can't reopen it and you can't open another case for this transaction. This is true whether you close the case, or the 60 days expires and we close it.
It makes it seem as though there' s not a way to agree to cancellation once a case is open! Or even if I open the case, if she decides not to agree, then I don't get my FVF back.
Please advise
So I am willing to cancel transaction, until reading this:
To close the case in the Resolution Center:
Go to the Resolution Center and log in.
Select the case to be closed.
Select one of the following options to close the case:
The buyer and I have completed this transaction successfully. [We have not]
I want to end communication with the buyer. [No, she would like to cancel transaction.]
Enter any final comments in the message box.
Click Close Case.
Timeline:
Close your case within 60 days of the transaction.
If the buyer agrees to cancel the transaction, we'll credit your final value fee to your account.
On the 61st day after the end of the transaction, if you haven't closed your case, we automatically close it and you don't receive a final value fee credit.
Once your case is closed, you can't reopen it.
Things to keep in mind:
You must close the case in the Resolution Center in order to receive a final value fee credit.
Once the case is closed, you can't reopen it and you can't open another case for this transaction. This is true whether you close the case, or the 60 days expires and we close it.
It makes it seem as though there' s not a way to agree to cancellation once a case is open! Or even if I open the case, if she decides not to agree, then I don't get my FVF back.
Please advise
Dienstag, 6. Mai 2014
Autograph Authentication, a basic guide
Authentication, a brief how to guide on the basics of authentication.
Firstly, what makes me an expert on the subject? Well, i have been dealing directly in autographs full time for over 20 years, and have worked with both Trading Standards and the Police on autograph fraud cases, with my evidence having been used in a number of cases. The most recent is the Andrew Sullivan case in Norwich, in which Sullivan got 21 months prison for selling fake signed images on ebay, and he was doing this for 6 years! A simple google search will find all you need to know about this seller. I have also worked with a number of TV programs, Fake Britain, The One Show, Inside Out, and soon to be seen Pawn Stars UK and Posh Pawn, as well as advising a number of other dealers and auction houses on signed stock. I also run a full day course on autographs which is aimed at giving the collector a good knowledge of what to look out for when buying signed photos etc.
This should be considered as a very brief guide on the principles of authentication. It will not make you an expert, and does not cover all the principles involved, just the basics, so keep that in mind! But, it will give you a start on how to diferentiate between a real and a fake signature correctly, and with practice and a lot of experience it will allow you to become sufficiently skilled in being able to easily spot the good from the bad.
But firstly, never assume that just because a person has been selling or collecting autographs for years, that they are experts in their fields. I have met many ‘collectors’ who simply only do that, collect autographs, and who have never read any of the books available, or even researched or studied any of the signatures they have purchased, sometimes resulting in a collection full of fakes, autopens and secretarial signatures. Do your homework, learn the rules, and your collection can become something of real value in the future.
I have yet to meet a dealer who has not either bought or sold a fake signature either. This would always have been done unknowingly of course, as no matter how good you are, there is always someone out there who is smarter than you, and who will take very great pleasure in parting you with your hard earned money!
And lastly, never confuse an ‘opinion’ with an ‘authentication’ as they are two very different things. You may well ask a dealer for his opinion on an item you have purchased, and he may well say, “yes, it looks fine to me” but that opinion will very likely be based only on his idea of the signature at the time, and is based only on the signature examples he has stored in his own memory, or a few similar signatures he may well have in stock himself, and of course the quick glance he will have given your item free of charge. But how good is his memory, and indeed, how good is his stock? And if you are getting the 'opinion' free of charge, then how much should you really rely on it?
Authenticating an autograph is not quite as simple as making a few quick comparisons with others you might find on the internet. Any and all Comparisons should always be made on a like for like basis, i.e. same period (signatures from the same time, and not 20 years apart), same signature style (signature on a cheque compared with the same) etc, and it should always be done letter for letter, word for word, line for line etc, but most importantly, all comparisons must be made with known authentic examples, and finding those can often be the hardest part!
Rather than go into all the detail and cover all the bases, I have kept this guide as simple as possible, but this should be enough for you to grasp the basics of proving a signature to be real or fake.
People can often be heard to give opinions on autographs, but keep in mind that that is normally all they ever are, an opinion based on a first look, and quickly compared to one or two other examples, which are often only in their head! This is not the way to do it! and can sometimes produce and answers that is way off the mark, and could result in a bad buy or even worse! As someone once said, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing! and i have seen many people with only a little knowledge make a statement that could lose you a stack of money.
The whole idea behind authentication is to prove, 'beyond reasonable doubt’ one way or the other that a signature is authentic. Once done, you would have the proof to show others that it is in fact authentic and not a forgery (or the other way around). In a court of law, you would need to show this proof as evidence to a judge and jury, and they would then have to be able to both understand it, and see how it shows the signature to be either real of fake, before they decide themsleves ‘beyond reasonable doubt’ that it is one or the other. Simply giving them an opinion based on your first thoughts, and comparisons made with those stored in your own memory banks would simply not suffice and would not be acceptable in court, and should not be acceptable within your collection either.
This article assumes that you have some knowledge of autographs, and also assumes that you have already done the required basic checks to ensure that the autograph is in ink on the correct paper, and has not been printed in some way or created by autopen or machine. I have written other articles to help you in this area and these will be added later.
But before we start, here is one very vital piece of information. Before buying any autograph, or making any start on authentication, always base your examination on the assumtion that the autograph is a fake. That may sound a little odd to some, and is not easy to get head around, but if you start from that viewpoint, and allow the autograph to prove to you that its real (if indeed it can) then you won’t go far wrong, and will certainly buy a lot less fake autographs!
Think of the autograph as a criminal that is guilty until proven innocent, rather than innocent until proven guilty! If the signature is authentic, then it will almost always become obvious after the correct checks. If it does not come through with flying colours, and you have any doubts, then simply do not buy it "if in doubt, then don't" should always be your mantra when buying.
When checking the authenticity of a signature, there are many things a qualified expert will be looking at. Here I have listed only some, or what I call the six S’s and these are the things that you should be looking at very carefully before making any decision on authenticity.
These six things combined, can prove a signature to be real or fake, so it is these that you should concentrate on whenever trying to authenticate any autograph.
First of course you need to be sure that what you have is indeed a signature, and not something that has been printed, as these are far more common than you might think. Most printed signatures are easy to spot with the simple use of a magnifying glass. I have a number of different ones i use including a 3D microscope and an elecronic version connected to the computer which will show very high resolution images, but all the collector really needs is something about 8x magnification and of a sensible size.
First, using the magnifying glass, study various types of known printed signatures etc under the glass. You will see that they will be made up of small dots, varying colours or ink droplets, very small particles of colour, or solid colour with no visible overlaps in the writing. All of this will become far more easily understood after you have studied some genuine writing that has been copied using scanners etc, and printed using inkjet, laser and litho printing etc.
When you compare what you see with your own handwriting using ball point, fountain pen, marker or pencil, you will then clearly see what you are looking for in a printed signature. But never let your confidence overtake you! Printers and in particular the forgers, will always try and improve on what they are doing, and i have seen many examples of printed signatures that are not as easy to spot under magnification as you may think. But just when you think you have mastered that art of spotting inkjet printed signatures, some smart ass forger will move the goalposts, improve on his 'technique' use a new printer and produce something that no longer resembles what you expect to see!
In addtion to sorting out the printed signatures, we need to look for the obvous signes of fakery, and i will be adding a seperate article on this in the near future, but always look out for the obvious! These obvious things are sometimes so obvious that people simply don't look for them. Two examples are the signed postcard with a good enough forgery on the front to fool many, but the copyright date on the reverse proving the postcard to be printed after the person who had supposedly signed it had died!
Another one that i spotted one day in someones collection was a signed Buddy Holly CD, and i will leave you to work that one out, hopefully it won't take long!
1. Style. This is the overall writing style that someone uses, and which generally remains the same throughout their life. Once you have learned to write your signature at an early age, it won’t change a great deal, it simply goes through subtle changes through your life. Of course you might lose an arm and have to learn again using your other arm, but that is another matter! And of course, as you get older you will write more slowly and perhaps even with a tremor, but all of that can be taken into consideration if you do your authentication correctly. Keep in mind too that when you sign your name, it is completely automatic and normally done with great speed. You will have no need to think about it, it just happens when you need it, try it with your eyes closed and you will see what I mean.
Everyone has a unique style to their signature, some large, some small, some boring, some very artistic. Some have a tendency to sign almost everything at an angle, in one corner, or perhaps with an added doodle or kiss, and all of these need to be looked at and considered. But always remember to the old saying Never say never! How many times have heard that so and so never signs that photo? or that they won't sign books? or that they always sign in a dark area? Well there are ways around anything, and their will always be exceptions to the rule, so never say never!
Each persons style of signature can vary, and there are cases where a celebrity will use different variations of their signature when they are signing say a cheque, to when they are out and about on the town signing for collectors. This is often down to speed and simplicity etc, but by careful analysis of these signatures you should normally be able to see the almost exact same features in each example.
There are of course some people who will deliberately sign in a way that perhaps prevents the collector from possibly selling it. They may use the wrong hand or sign with a flourish that is not there name at all, but a swear word or even someone else’s name! but this is rare, and if you come across this it you will probably be wasting your time trying to prove it one way or another!
2. Shape. Consider and compare the shapes of the letters. Some of us can draw a perfect circle, others cannot, and this is what you should be looking for within a siignature, the shapes of each individual letter, and comparing them with the same lettters in any suspect signature. If and when you try the comparisons via photoshop or print outs, that is when the differing shapes can really be seen.
3. Size. The proportions of a person’s signature will not normally change very much, although people tend to sign larger if given a larger piece to sign, however, so although the size may change the proportions rarely do. So if you have two signatures from the same person, but one is much larger than the other, by scanning them both into Photoshop, and then making them the same size, they will look the same, and in some cases I have seen, it is almost uncanny as to how close they both are!
Using Photoshop is also a very quick and easy way to check a signature for authenticity. It’s not foolproof but you will be amazed at just how similar two signatures can look (one real - one fake) until you put them one on top of the other. Within Photoshop it’s easy to do if you know how, if not simply make the signatures the same size and then print them out on to paper, put them one on top of the other and hold them up to the light. You will then see that although they may look the same on their own, once compared in this manner the differences will become very apparent.
The opposite applies if you compare two authentic signatures. You may well find they look a little different, perhaps signed at different times, but scan the two into photoshop, make them the same size, overlap them and hey presto, you might be amazed at what you see!
4. Speed. (and we should be looking at pressure here too but that does not start with an S!) A signature is normally created in one quick and simple flourish, so the forger must try and recreate this, which he will find very hard to do, even with practice, as he will be copying the signature, and not doing it purely from memory as you would.
When we write our own signature, we do it completely subconsciously, it is just a simple message from the brain to the hand wrist and arm, and hey presto, a signature. The forger is trying to recreate this automatic movement, and it is simply impossible. If you carefully watch anyone sign their name, you will see that it’s not just a hand movement; the arm, wrist and fingers will also be moving in all directions. This causes the pen to move up and across the paper as well as varying the pressure down onto the paper as well.
The varying pressure used to press the pen onto the paper, is something that is impossible for the forger to recreate. It is hard enough as it is to recreate the strokes, let alone the varying pressure and speed as well. So if we look for all these varying characteristics, it becomes much easier to spot the fakes.
5. Slant. Again, each of us has a certain slant to our characters which will normally remain the same. Left handed writers for instance tend to have a slant to the left (but not always), and this is something that is very hard to reproduce if you are right handed (try it and you will see what I mean.) You will sometimes see a slant that increases as the signature or writing progresses across the page.
6. Spacing. The spacing of each letter and each word or line does not vary each time someone writes, but again tends to remain consistent throughout the writing, but the forger will again find this very hard to recreate, and will almost always get it wrong.
Remember that all of these things will be consistent within the forger’s hand writing as well, so his own slant and spacing etc will always tend to creep into anything he tries to fake.
One thing I always make a point of telling anyone who asks is that it is often the very small things that can give a fake away. A forger may well make a good job of recreating a signature, but he will rarely get those small tell tale things right that are peculiar to some signatures or signers. The way the i is dotted or the t is crossed, perhaps the way a signer starts the signature, does he do it opposite of what you might expect? How are those lower case o’s and a’s joined together, at the top or the bottom? These are the areas that can often tell you straight away that a signature is fake.
When comparing signatures, if you have several authentic signatures from the same person, and compare them to several signatures of the same name from a forger, you can normally instantly see the fakes straight away. But of course, when buying a signature, you don’t often have that opportunity.
Multi signed football shirts for instance can often be spotted simply by the fact that the signatures are all of a similar size, similar slant, similar letter spacing, and may look as though they were all done by the same person; possibly because they were! Try getting someone to write the signature 4 times, and then ask someone else to fake it 4 times and you will see what i mean.
There are other things we might look at too when doing an expert witness report, such as pen type. i.e. Was the pen or ink used available at that time? You may have read the report I did on a case, where the forger had signed an early photo of Laurel and Hardy in felt tip pen!
If you can keep all of the above in mind when looking to buy any autograph, then you will probably buy a lot less fakes, and you will be learning in the process, but remember that no two signatures from the same person will ever be exactly the same! If they are then they are most probably an Autopen. See my Autopen guide for more on this.
There are many books available on autographs, some very poor, others invaluable. Ones which I recommend you locate and buy include the following. All the best ones with the exception of the ‘Sanders Price Guides’ are out of print, so you will need to search used bookshops or ebay etc.
Any book by Ray Rawlins. Ray was a keen collector and his books were sold under various names in the UK and USA. I sometimes have his main book is stock for purchase.
The Sanders Price Guides. The bible for any autograph dealer, and available from Amazon etc. Even the old ones are worth having as they have many autograph exemplars within them.
Movie Star Autographs of the Golden Era. By Susan and Steven Raab. Again out of print for years, but worth searching out.
Christensen’s Celebrity Autographs. Another out of print book, but contains thousands of signatures from many different genres.
A Study of Elvis Presley's Autograph. by Al Wittnebert. An essential guide for any Elvis collector. This can be purchased directly from Uncle Al himself by doing a Google search for Uncle Al's Time Capsule. (If ebay allowed links here, there would be one!)
Neil Armstrong, The Quest for his Autograph. By Anthony Pizzitola. The best guide you will find for Neil Armstrong signatures. Published by the UACC and available from Amazon or the UACC website.
Operation Bullpen. By Kevin Nelson. A must read for any dealer or collector as it outlines the truth about fakes and the network of forgers in the USA that were bought down by the FBI some years ago. Many of these fakes can still be seen for sale on ebay today, so read it or get robbed! There are still many large forgery operations openly operating in the USA, although it must be only a matter of time before they are closed down, but in the meantime they continue to take a stack of money. The book is available from Amazon or directly from Kevin on his website.
Firstly, what makes me an expert on the subject? Well, i have been dealing directly in autographs full time for over 20 years, and have worked with both Trading Standards and the Police on autograph fraud cases, with my evidence having been used in a number of cases. The most recent is the Andrew Sullivan case in Norwich, in which Sullivan got 21 months prison for selling fake signed images on ebay, and he was doing this for 6 years! A simple google search will find all you need to know about this seller. I have also worked with a number of TV programs, Fake Britain, The One Show, Inside Out, and soon to be seen Pawn Stars UK and Posh Pawn, as well as advising a number of other dealers and auction houses on signed stock. I also run a full day course on autographs which is aimed at giving the collector a good knowledge of what to look out for when buying signed photos etc.
This should be considered as a very brief guide on the principles of authentication. It will not make you an expert, and does not cover all the principles involved, just the basics, so keep that in mind! But, it will give you a start on how to diferentiate between a real and a fake signature correctly, and with practice and a lot of experience it will allow you to become sufficiently skilled in being able to easily spot the good from the bad.
But firstly, never assume that just because a person has been selling or collecting autographs for years, that they are experts in their fields. I have met many ‘collectors’ who simply only do that, collect autographs, and who have never read any of the books available, or even researched or studied any of the signatures they have purchased, sometimes resulting in a collection full of fakes, autopens and secretarial signatures. Do your homework, learn the rules, and your collection can become something of real value in the future.
I have yet to meet a dealer who has not either bought or sold a fake signature either. This would always have been done unknowingly of course, as no matter how good you are, there is always someone out there who is smarter than you, and who will take very great pleasure in parting you with your hard earned money!
And lastly, never confuse an ‘opinion’ with an ‘authentication’ as they are two very different things. You may well ask a dealer for his opinion on an item you have purchased, and he may well say, “yes, it looks fine to me” but that opinion will very likely be based only on his idea of the signature at the time, and is based only on the signature examples he has stored in his own memory, or a few similar signatures he may well have in stock himself, and of course the quick glance he will have given your item free of charge. But how good is his memory, and indeed, how good is his stock? And if you are getting the 'opinion' free of charge, then how much should you really rely on it?
Authenticating an autograph is not quite as simple as making a few quick comparisons with others you might find on the internet. Any and all Comparisons should always be made on a like for like basis, i.e. same period (signatures from the same time, and not 20 years apart), same signature style (signature on a cheque compared with the same) etc, and it should always be done letter for letter, word for word, line for line etc, but most importantly, all comparisons must be made with known authentic examples, and finding those can often be the hardest part!
Rather than go into all the detail and cover all the bases, I have kept this guide as simple as possible, but this should be enough for you to grasp the basics of proving a signature to be real or fake.
People can often be heard to give opinions on autographs, but keep in mind that that is normally all they ever are, an opinion based on a first look, and quickly compared to one or two other examples, which are often only in their head! This is not the way to do it! and can sometimes produce and answers that is way off the mark, and could result in a bad buy or even worse! As someone once said, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing! and i have seen many people with only a little knowledge make a statement that could lose you a stack of money.
The whole idea behind authentication is to prove, 'beyond reasonable doubt’ one way or the other that a signature is authentic. Once done, you would have the proof to show others that it is in fact authentic and not a forgery (or the other way around). In a court of law, you would need to show this proof as evidence to a judge and jury, and they would then have to be able to both understand it, and see how it shows the signature to be either real of fake, before they decide themsleves ‘beyond reasonable doubt’ that it is one or the other. Simply giving them an opinion based on your first thoughts, and comparisons made with those stored in your own memory banks would simply not suffice and would not be acceptable in court, and should not be acceptable within your collection either.
This article assumes that you have some knowledge of autographs, and also assumes that you have already done the required basic checks to ensure that the autograph is in ink on the correct paper, and has not been printed in some way or created by autopen or machine. I have written other articles to help you in this area and these will be added later.
But before we start, here is one very vital piece of information. Before buying any autograph, or making any start on authentication, always base your examination on the assumtion that the autograph is a fake. That may sound a little odd to some, and is not easy to get head around, but if you start from that viewpoint, and allow the autograph to prove to you that its real (if indeed it can) then you won’t go far wrong, and will certainly buy a lot less fake autographs!
Think of the autograph as a criminal that is guilty until proven innocent, rather than innocent until proven guilty! If the signature is authentic, then it will almost always become obvious after the correct checks. If it does not come through with flying colours, and you have any doubts, then simply do not buy it "if in doubt, then don't" should always be your mantra when buying.
When checking the authenticity of a signature, there are many things a qualified expert will be looking at. Here I have listed only some, or what I call the six S’s and these are the things that you should be looking at very carefully before making any decision on authenticity.
These six things combined, can prove a signature to be real or fake, so it is these that you should concentrate on whenever trying to authenticate any autograph.
First of course you need to be sure that what you have is indeed a signature, and not something that has been printed, as these are far more common than you might think. Most printed signatures are easy to spot with the simple use of a magnifying glass. I have a number of different ones i use including a 3D microscope and an elecronic version connected to the computer which will show very high resolution images, but all the collector really needs is something about 8x magnification and of a sensible size.
First, using the magnifying glass, study various types of known printed signatures etc under the glass. You will see that they will be made up of small dots, varying colours or ink droplets, very small particles of colour, or solid colour with no visible overlaps in the writing. All of this will become far more easily understood after you have studied some genuine writing that has been copied using scanners etc, and printed using inkjet, laser and litho printing etc.
When you compare what you see with your own handwriting using ball point, fountain pen, marker or pencil, you will then clearly see what you are looking for in a printed signature. But never let your confidence overtake you! Printers and in particular the forgers, will always try and improve on what they are doing, and i have seen many examples of printed signatures that are not as easy to spot under magnification as you may think. But just when you think you have mastered that art of spotting inkjet printed signatures, some smart ass forger will move the goalposts, improve on his 'technique' use a new printer and produce something that no longer resembles what you expect to see!
In addtion to sorting out the printed signatures, we need to look for the obvous signes of fakery, and i will be adding a seperate article on this in the near future, but always look out for the obvious! These obvious things are sometimes so obvious that people simply don't look for them. Two examples are the signed postcard with a good enough forgery on the front to fool many, but the copyright date on the reverse proving the postcard to be printed after the person who had supposedly signed it had died!
Another one that i spotted one day in someones collection was a signed Buddy Holly CD, and i will leave you to work that one out, hopefully it won't take long!
1. Style. This is the overall writing style that someone uses, and which generally remains the same throughout their life. Once you have learned to write your signature at an early age, it won’t change a great deal, it simply goes through subtle changes through your life. Of course you might lose an arm and have to learn again using your other arm, but that is another matter! And of course, as you get older you will write more slowly and perhaps even with a tremor, but all of that can be taken into consideration if you do your authentication correctly. Keep in mind too that when you sign your name, it is completely automatic and normally done with great speed. You will have no need to think about it, it just happens when you need it, try it with your eyes closed and you will see what I mean.
Everyone has a unique style to their signature, some large, some small, some boring, some very artistic. Some have a tendency to sign almost everything at an angle, in one corner, or perhaps with an added doodle or kiss, and all of these need to be looked at and considered. But always remember to the old saying Never say never! How many times have heard that so and so never signs that photo? or that they won't sign books? or that they always sign in a dark area? Well there are ways around anything, and their will always be exceptions to the rule, so never say never!
Each persons style of signature can vary, and there are cases where a celebrity will use different variations of their signature when they are signing say a cheque, to when they are out and about on the town signing for collectors. This is often down to speed and simplicity etc, but by careful analysis of these signatures you should normally be able to see the almost exact same features in each example.
There are of course some people who will deliberately sign in a way that perhaps prevents the collector from possibly selling it. They may use the wrong hand or sign with a flourish that is not there name at all, but a swear word or even someone else’s name! but this is rare, and if you come across this it you will probably be wasting your time trying to prove it one way or another!
2. Shape. Consider and compare the shapes of the letters. Some of us can draw a perfect circle, others cannot, and this is what you should be looking for within a siignature, the shapes of each individual letter, and comparing them with the same lettters in any suspect signature. If and when you try the comparisons via photoshop or print outs, that is when the differing shapes can really be seen.
3. Size. The proportions of a person’s signature will not normally change very much, although people tend to sign larger if given a larger piece to sign, however, so although the size may change the proportions rarely do. So if you have two signatures from the same person, but one is much larger than the other, by scanning them both into Photoshop, and then making them the same size, they will look the same, and in some cases I have seen, it is almost uncanny as to how close they both are!
Using Photoshop is also a very quick and easy way to check a signature for authenticity. It’s not foolproof but you will be amazed at just how similar two signatures can look (one real - one fake) until you put them one on top of the other. Within Photoshop it’s easy to do if you know how, if not simply make the signatures the same size and then print them out on to paper, put them one on top of the other and hold them up to the light. You will then see that although they may look the same on their own, once compared in this manner the differences will become very apparent.
The opposite applies if you compare two authentic signatures. You may well find they look a little different, perhaps signed at different times, but scan the two into photoshop, make them the same size, overlap them and hey presto, you might be amazed at what you see!
4. Speed. (and we should be looking at pressure here too but that does not start with an S!) A signature is normally created in one quick and simple flourish, so the forger must try and recreate this, which he will find very hard to do, even with practice, as he will be copying the signature, and not doing it purely from memory as you would.
When we write our own signature, we do it completely subconsciously, it is just a simple message from the brain to the hand wrist and arm, and hey presto, a signature. The forger is trying to recreate this automatic movement, and it is simply impossible. If you carefully watch anyone sign their name, you will see that it’s not just a hand movement; the arm, wrist and fingers will also be moving in all directions. This causes the pen to move up and across the paper as well as varying the pressure down onto the paper as well.
The varying pressure used to press the pen onto the paper, is something that is impossible for the forger to recreate. It is hard enough as it is to recreate the strokes, let alone the varying pressure and speed as well. So if we look for all these varying characteristics, it becomes much easier to spot the fakes.
5. Slant. Again, each of us has a certain slant to our characters which will normally remain the same. Left handed writers for instance tend to have a slant to the left (but not always), and this is something that is very hard to reproduce if you are right handed (try it and you will see what I mean.) You will sometimes see a slant that increases as the signature or writing progresses across the page.
6. Spacing. The spacing of each letter and each word or line does not vary each time someone writes, but again tends to remain consistent throughout the writing, but the forger will again find this very hard to recreate, and will almost always get it wrong.
Remember that all of these things will be consistent within the forger’s hand writing as well, so his own slant and spacing etc will always tend to creep into anything he tries to fake.
One thing I always make a point of telling anyone who asks is that it is often the very small things that can give a fake away. A forger may well make a good job of recreating a signature, but he will rarely get those small tell tale things right that are peculiar to some signatures or signers. The way the i is dotted or the t is crossed, perhaps the way a signer starts the signature, does he do it opposite of what you might expect? How are those lower case o’s and a’s joined together, at the top or the bottom? These are the areas that can often tell you straight away that a signature is fake.
When comparing signatures, if you have several authentic signatures from the same person, and compare them to several signatures of the same name from a forger, you can normally instantly see the fakes straight away. But of course, when buying a signature, you don’t often have that opportunity.
Multi signed football shirts for instance can often be spotted simply by the fact that the signatures are all of a similar size, similar slant, similar letter spacing, and may look as though they were all done by the same person; possibly because they were! Try getting someone to write the signature 4 times, and then ask someone else to fake it 4 times and you will see what i mean.
There are other things we might look at too when doing an expert witness report, such as pen type. i.e. Was the pen or ink used available at that time? You may have read the report I did on a case, where the forger had signed an early photo of Laurel and Hardy in felt tip pen!
If you can keep all of the above in mind when looking to buy any autograph, then you will probably buy a lot less fakes, and you will be learning in the process, but remember that no two signatures from the same person will ever be exactly the same! If they are then they are most probably an Autopen. See my Autopen guide for more on this.
There are many books available on autographs, some very poor, others invaluable. Ones which I recommend you locate and buy include the following. All the best ones with the exception of the ‘Sanders Price Guides’ are out of print, so you will need to search used bookshops or ebay etc.
Any book by Ray Rawlins. Ray was a keen collector and his books were sold under various names in the UK and USA. I sometimes have his main book is stock for purchase.
The Sanders Price Guides. The bible for any autograph dealer, and available from Amazon etc. Even the old ones are worth having as they have many autograph exemplars within them.
Movie Star Autographs of the Golden Era. By Susan and Steven Raab. Again out of print for years, but worth searching out.
Christensen’s Celebrity Autographs. Another out of print book, but contains thousands of signatures from many different genres.
A Study of Elvis Presley's Autograph. by Al Wittnebert. An essential guide for any Elvis collector. This can be purchased directly from Uncle Al himself by doing a Google search for Uncle Al's Time Capsule. (If ebay allowed links here, there would be one!)
Neil Armstrong, The Quest for his Autograph. By Anthony Pizzitola. The best guide you will find for Neil Armstrong signatures. Published by the UACC and available from Amazon or the UACC website.
Operation Bullpen. By Kevin Nelson. A must read for any dealer or collector as it outlines the truth about fakes and the network of forgers in the USA that were bought down by the FBI some years ago. Many of these fakes can still be seen for sale on ebay today, so read it or get robbed! There are still many large forgery operations openly operating in the USA, although it must be only a matter of time before they are closed down, but in the meantime they continue to take a stack of money. The book is available from Amazon or directly from Kevin on his website.
Samstag, 3. Mai 2014
I hope someone can help me to find out what should I do to clean it up
I just returned to sell on eBay, I stopped for some time in past I was in another country, now I am selling from US as I moved too here.
1- In the first situation, I have a US Buyer who opened a INR case in 5 days. The buyer paid a item on April 14, Monday, the item was appears received on USPS on April 16 a Wednesday (tracking active), but buyer opened the INR case on April 19 what was a Saturday between Good Friday and Easter:womansad:???????!
I replied for the case explaining about the "almost holiday "Good Friday and Easter" could delay a little but in this case I did not saw delays as the shipping was made with standard mail it not really look like a "case"... Anyway the message from the buyer in the case seams too friendlily, things did not match and soon as I replied for the case buyer closed it and said sorry, explaining he did made a mistake, he did try to send me a message and accidently opened a INR case... I am trust him as from the beginning the message was very weird, as I said to friendlily to be a INR and looked more like a question on why the tracking stopped work on the April 16 and not exactly a question like "where is my item" like usually is on open cases...
Anyway, my problem now is I have a open case against to me in my history and it shows as damage but is clearly a buyer mistake so I like to know if have a way to request ebay to clean it up?
2- The second situation is a buyer who gave me low DSR in shipping and also stated in the feedback it was because the "shipping arrived 4 days after the estimated tho"...
Seriously???!:womanfrustrated:
Well, on the DSR guide lines for buyers there clearly explain they need evaluate the shipping by time, package and everything else "THE SELLER" is responsible for but seller are not linked with the third part delays, the USPS delays... Anyway it was paid on April 13, tracking shows active on April 15 and buyer received product on April 22.... My point here is, the buyer is in US and, yes, it toke more time, I do not have idea why but it did, anyway it was not that much time and was not my fault (also it is very clear on the DSR guide for buyers) so why should I receive a DSR low in my perfect history if the buyer as misunderstanding the guide lines to evaluating it??? How can I request to have it reviewed?
Welcome to the NEW eBay. This is not the eBay of old, not the eBay before PayPal, before DSR's, before defects, before "money back guarantee", before forced returns, before "the buyer is always right".
Yep... miss those days. Waiting a week or more for a check, depositing it (then waiting for it to clear), hand addressing packages, waiting in line at the P.O. (well, not so much). Most of the time it was two weeks BEFORE you even shipped. Then waiting for positive feedback from your buyer (or an email) to insure they received it. And if a buyer didn't pay you gave them a negative feeback.
Yeah... they were definitely "the good old days".Thanks for trying help and it is a correct advice, I know, but it was exactly what I was trying to avoid, trying to find some way to do it by e-mail maybe or something like it? Because I really hate call eBay "time", it is soooooooo frustrating because most of the time we get a person who only know how to read a guide and gave you no matching reply or eider get a unicellular person who can`t say nothing, can`t help with nothing and put you on hold at every second you start a question.... hole s* looks like I will need to deiced if it really worth the work or just let it there until clean alone....
I get what you say about call 2, 3, 4 times (if not more) because long time a go when I called sometimes one tell you no for something, but when you call again seconds after without say you call before they say "oh yes" for you.... Looks like nobody read the system uh?
But what really amuses me is in fact they are "peoples" in the other side of the phone, who got paid for do this low quality service and, worse, probably was trained, even if by a book or for 30 minutes with a call worker... So I wander what is wrong with this peoples? Does eBay just gave a Job for you if you hate life? or if you really don`t have any type of talent and skills?
... Poor of me, who actually have some skills and so have economic problems as can`t find a easy job like hold a phone and gave ** answers to people! And I saying it because I did in my life, in past, work in call center and also in telemarketing and I was helpful to who called and I remember in this days, most of the times, the answer for the customer was not in the book...
Anyway times change and now who have something in need to request help for who does not have nothing there... I wish I was born a very stupid person and I am probably have a easy job now and a very happy life.
Well, I guess I will think if it worth and in case I decide call I will take a good night of sleep, a good relax day and buy a good and strong liquor bottle to make me feel less insulted after the call ends..
Thanks any way for try, looks like I do not have other options :womanfrustrated:
1- In the first situation, I have a US Buyer who opened a INR case in 5 days. The buyer paid a item on April 14, Monday, the item was appears received on USPS on April 16 a Wednesday (tracking active), but buyer opened the INR case on April 19 what was a Saturday between Good Friday and Easter:womansad:???????!
I replied for the case explaining about the "almost holiday "Good Friday and Easter" could delay a little but in this case I did not saw delays as the shipping was made with standard mail it not really look like a "case"... Anyway the message from the buyer in the case seams too friendlily, things did not match and soon as I replied for the case buyer closed it and said sorry, explaining he did made a mistake, he did try to send me a message and accidently opened a INR case... I am trust him as from the beginning the message was very weird, as I said to friendlily to be a INR and looked more like a question on why the tracking stopped work on the April 16 and not exactly a question like "where is my item" like usually is on open cases...
Anyway, my problem now is I have a open case against to me in my history and it shows as damage but is clearly a buyer mistake so I like to know if have a way to request ebay to clean it up?
2- The second situation is a buyer who gave me low DSR in shipping and also stated in the feedback it was because the "shipping arrived 4 days after the estimated tho"...
Seriously???!:womanfrustrated:
Well, on the DSR guide lines for buyers there clearly explain they need evaluate the shipping by time, package and everything else "THE SELLER" is responsible for but seller are not linked with the third part delays, the USPS delays... Anyway it was paid on April 13, tracking shows active on April 15 and buyer received product on April 22.... My point here is, the buyer is in US and, yes, it toke more time, I do not have idea why but it did, anyway it was not that much time and was not my fault (also it is very clear on the DSR guide for buyers) so why should I receive a DSR low in my perfect history if the buyer as misunderstanding the guide lines to evaluating it??? How can I request to have it reviewed?
Welcome to the NEW eBay. This is not the eBay of old, not the eBay before PayPal, before DSR's, before defects, before "money back guarantee", before forced returns, before "the buyer is always right".
Yep... miss those days. Waiting a week or more for a check, depositing it (then waiting for it to clear), hand addressing packages, waiting in line at the P.O. (well, not so much). Most of the time it was two weeks BEFORE you even shipped. Then waiting for positive feedback from your buyer (or an email) to insure they received it. And if a buyer didn't pay you gave them a negative feeback.
Yeah... they were definitely "the good old days".Thanks for trying help and it is a correct advice, I know, but it was exactly what I was trying to avoid, trying to find some way to do it by e-mail maybe or something like it? Because I really hate call eBay "time", it is soooooooo frustrating because most of the time we get a person who only know how to read a guide and gave you no matching reply or eider get a unicellular person who can`t say nothing, can`t help with nothing and put you on hold at every second you start a question.... hole s* looks like I will need to deiced if it really worth the work or just let it there until clean alone....
I get what you say about call 2, 3, 4 times (if not more) because long time a go when I called sometimes one tell you no for something, but when you call again seconds after without say you call before they say "oh yes" for you.... Looks like nobody read the system uh?
But what really amuses me is in fact they are "peoples" in the other side of the phone, who got paid for do this low quality service and, worse, probably was trained, even if by a book or for 30 minutes with a call worker... So I wander what is wrong with this peoples? Does eBay just gave a Job for you if you hate life? or if you really don`t have any type of talent and skills?
... Poor of me, who actually have some skills and so have economic problems as can`t find a easy job like hold a phone and gave ** answers to people! And I saying it because I did in my life, in past, work in call center and also in telemarketing and I was helpful to who called and I remember in this days, most of the times, the answer for the customer was not in the book...
Anyway times change and now who have something in need to request help for who does not have nothing there... I wish I was born a very stupid person and I am probably have a easy job now and a very happy life.
Well, I guess I will think if it worth and in case I decide call I will take a good night of sleep, a good relax day and buy a good and strong liquor bottle to make me feel less insulted after the call ends..
Thanks any way for try, looks like I do not have other options :womanfrustrated:
Sonntag, 27. April 2014
DSR's don't show up for a few days after the feedback back is left...
I'm good as far as Ebay is concerned, but I was just looking at my Dashboard and noticed one of my buyers gave me low marks on Item Not As Described. I always describe (in great detail) every possible defect in the item up for auction (perhaps even to the point of being overly picky about it) because I want my buyers to know exactly what they're bidding on, no possibility of any problems. Now I have a mark on my record because somebody apparently didn't read the auction details. Makes me mad, I don't like having any marks against me unfairly. I wish I could find out who gave me low stars in that particular category so I could find out why.
Mittwoch, 23. April 2014
The buyer purchased some women's shirt's
So I have this scam artist who bought an item from me, used it, claimed it was too small in their neutral feedback (even though it was CLEARLY listed in the description) then lied and told me it didn't work as their reason for return. They returned it with their pictures still loaded up on it, but it was all used and scratched up. So now they opened a case against me. So basically buyers now have 3 ways to bend you over; feedback, Open case, and Description DSR. This woman has now hit all three.
I was told by eBay I could partial refund since the item wasn't defective and wasn't returned in the condition shipped...we'll see if eBay that is their position now a case is opened.
Other than keeping more people from being Top Rated...what is the benefit of allowing buyers three ways to damage your standing on eBay?
I had a similiar situation. The buyer purchased some women's shirt's, knowing the sizes as listed. One day I receive an e-mail that simply said "I received the shirts and they do not fit me." She opened a case to get a refund and refused to pay return shipping to send them back. She claimed to eBay a different story than "they didn't fit", she claimed the shirt's were fake???? OMG! So have worn "fake" shirt's, what the hell, but the buyer got their way and of course we can't alert other sellers about buyer's like this. These policies are getting ridiculous.
I was told by eBay I could partial refund since the item wasn't defective and wasn't returned in the condition shipped...we'll see if eBay that is their position now a case is opened.
Other than keeping more people from being Top Rated...what is the benefit of allowing buyers three ways to damage your standing on eBay?
I had a similiar situation. The buyer purchased some women's shirt's, knowing the sizes as listed. One day I receive an e-mail that simply said "I received the shirts and they do not fit me." She opened a case to get a refund and refused to pay return shipping to send them back. She claimed to eBay a different story than "they didn't fit", she claimed the shirt's were fake???? OMG! So have worn "fake" shirt's, what the hell, but the buyer got their way and of course we can't alert other sellers about buyer's like this. These policies are getting ridiculous.
Montag, 21. April 2014
I don't have a problem if she files SNAD
A buyer recently purchased 5 items from me, all of them BRAND NEW with tags, no issues (I check every item three times before shipping)! She haggled the living daylights out of me to get them. Now, she contacts me saying there are holes (plural) in this brand new shirt that had zero holes when it left my house.
She has demanded a refund or she will file a case against me...I'd just tell her to return for full refund anyway, same thing i told her now too.
Question one, I charged $5.95 combined shipping for priority flat rate (all five items fit in that). If I am forced to refund her through the claim, if she files one at all, do I have to refund the full $5.95 shipping for the whole bundle of items, or is there a specific amount that will be deemed appropriate for a refund?
Question two... If she decides she doesn't want to return, but goes and marks my DSRs super low and leaves negative feedback, do I stand a chance of having it removed because she refused to send it back and marked me down because of it?
Her feedback left for others looks really good, so I wasn't worried at first, but then got to thinking, five items all 1 star DSR ratings/and possible negs, can she ruin me on this? I've already told her if she wanted to return, she could as long as the tags are still attached. Obviously, if the tags aren't attached the kiddo probably wore it and got holes in it and now she wants to return it... I don't know. Even if I somehow missed one hole on this brand new item, two or more? Really? I check everything when I take its picture, when I list it, and when I package, three inspections. How would I miss multiple holes after three checks?
I didn't demand pictures, just asked if she would be willing to send one. I've been very professional about it. I'm hoping she can share a picture... Sigh...
I have asked for a picture, hoping she does get one. It was a boys shirt, kids get into all kinds of trouble...
No staples in the package at all. So that couldn't be it. Maybe if she cut the package open and hit the shirt with the scissors? That's about all I can come up with.
I don't have a problem if she files SNAD, she will still have to ship it back to me to get the refund that way. I don't think she will! I think she'd just not bother. She haggled to the last penny on every item, I don't think she'd even bother with sending it back for the refund, it would cost her too mcuh. But that doesn't mean she wouldn't mark me down on feedback. That's my biggest worry.
She has four other items she can determine aren't as perfect and wonderful as she wanted when it comes to feedback too. Lots of 1 & 2 star markings are not what I want to see.
Your first mistake was letting her haggle with you. I would have blocked them immediately at their first offer, especially if you did not have Best Offer on the listings.
If you let them haggle, they know that you are willing to negotiate. If you are willing to negotiate before the transaction, then you should be willing to negotiate with them after, when you have lost all control of the items, and you have to protect you account.
You have a scammer. The fact that they are sending you emails about not as described items and did not trigger an opened dispute is a huge red flag.
Send this...
Dear buyer,
I am sorry you are unhappy with the items. Please return them ALL for a refund of your original payment.
You,
Your address
Do not send anything else and if they file a dispute find and click on the refund upon return option. Do not continue to correspond with them. And start reporting their behavior to ebay using the report a buyer link that is at the right of the sold transaction in the more actions dropdown. Find some reportable violations and report them, like unreasonable demands. There are lots of them in there and you don't have to stop at one.
I send the return for refund email often and rarely get anything back and most of the scam attempts move on once they realize no free money is forthcoming. They rarely leave feedback either. But thanks to the new policy, you will only get one bad mark no matter how bad the transaction gets.
I'm wondering what happened if there are indeed holes (have you asked for a picture?): cigarette ashes flicked on the shirt while opening it?, moths that sneaked in en route (kidding)?, staples in the bag it was shipped in?, wearing the shirt to a conference or wedding and having badge staples or corsage pins create the holes?
The problem with a situation like this is that if you ask her to pay for return shipping (buyer's remorse) she'll probably file SNAD for the holes she claims to have found.
She has demanded a refund or she will file a case against me...I'd just tell her to return for full refund anyway, same thing i told her now too.
Question one, I charged $5.95 combined shipping for priority flat rate (all five items fit in that). If I am forced to refund her through the claim, if she files one at all, do I have to refund the full $5.95 shipping for the whole bundle of items, or is there a specific amount that will be deemed appropriate for a refund?
Question two... If she decides she doesn't want to return, but goes and marks my DSRs super low and leaves negative feedback, do I stand a chance of having it removed because she refused to send it back and marked me down because of it?
Her feedback left for others looks really good, so I wasn't worried at first, but then got to thinking, five items all 1 star DSR ratings/and possible negs, can she ruin me on this? I've already told her if she wanted to return, she could as long as the tags are still attached. Obviously, if the tags aren't attached the kiddo probably wore it and got holes in it and now she wants to return it... I don't know. Even if I somehow missed one hole on this brand new item, two or more? Really? I check everything when I take its picture, when I list it, and when I package, three inspections. How would I miss multiple holes after three checks?
I didn't demand pictures, just asked if she would be willing to send one. I've been very professional about it. I'm hoping she can share a picture... Sigh...
I have asked for a picture, hoping she does get one. It was a boys shirt, kids get into all kinds of trouble...
No staples in the package at all. So that couldn't be it. Maybe if she cut the package open and hit the shirt with the scissors? That's about all I can come up with.
I don't have a problem if she files SNAD, she will still have to ship it back to me to get the refund that way. I don't think she will! I think she'd just not bother. She haggled to the last penny on every item, I don't think she'd even bother with sending it back for the refund, it would cost her too mcuh. But that doesn't mean she wouldn't mark me down on feedback. That's my biggest worry.
She has four other items she can determine aren't as perfect and wonderful as she wanted when it comes to feedback too. Lots of 1 & 2 star markings are not what I want to see.
Your first mistake was letting her haggle with you. I would have blocked them immediately at their first offer, especially if you did not have Best Offer on the listings.
If you let them haggle, they know that you are willing to negotiate. If you are willing to negotiate before the transaction, then you should be willing to negotiate with them after, when you have lost all control of the items, and you have to protect you account.
You have a scammer. The fact that they are sending you emails about not as described items and did not trigger an opened dispute is a huge red flag.
Send this...
Dear buyer,
I am sorry you are unhappy with the items. Please return them ALL for a refund of your original payment.
You,
Your address
Do not send anything else and if they file a dispute find and click on the refund upon return option. Do not continue to correspond with them. And start reporting their behavior to ebay using the report a buyer link that is at the right of the sold transaction in the more actions dropdown. Find some reportable violations and report them, like unreasonable demands. There are lots of them in there and you don't have to stop at one.
I send the return for refund email often and rarely get anything back and most of the scam attempts move on once they realize no free money is forthcoming. They rarely leave feedback either. But thanks to the new policy, you will only get one bad mark no matter how bad the transaction gets.
I'm wondering what happened if there are indeed holes (have you asked for a picture?): cigarette ashes flicked on the shirt while opening it?, moths that sneaked in en route (kidding)?, staples in the bag it was shipped in?, wearing the shirt to a conference or wedding and having badge staples or corsage pins create the holes?
The problem with a situation like this is that if you ask her to pay for return shipping (buyer's remorse) she'll probably file SNAD for the holes she claims to have found.
Abonnieren
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