you can't always trust that something is in great shape just by a pic or two, and you can't trust buying from just anyone. This is a guide to help insure that you're getting the best for your money.
The first thing I always do is set the price point filter for how much I'm willing to pay for a used handbag. I also click on the style filters if I'm searching for something specific. There are also filters for color, brand, style, location, condition,etc. These are all things you need to consider when shopping for a handbag.
Next, take a look at the sellers ratings. If it's high, then they've received a lot of good feedback. If it's low, it means people weren't happy with the service/products they received (or that they haven't been on eBay very long). You can go to their feedback page and read the comments that people left as well. I bought an item once, and because of the way it was worded, believed that I was buying multiples of the item, contacted the seller who also worded it funny, posted feedback on their page and received a very rude response from the seller. ALWAYS check feedback and comments. No one wants to deal with a rude vendor. You can also contact the seller for a better description of the item by hitting the contact seller button.
Once you've found an item that you're happy with and have checked ratings and product description, and have checked the sellers return policy, go ahead and place a bid or buy the item.
Posts mit dem Label eBay werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen
Posts mit dem Label eBay werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen
Montag, 12. Mai 2014
Donnerstag, 8. Mai 2014
How To Make Lucky Star Jars
What are Lucky Stars?
Lucky stars are thin folded pieces of paper that are folded into the shape of a star! Though the folding can be difficult to learn, after practice, it will be a skill that you can't forger.
How to fold lucky stars
Lucky stars are a long strip of paper. To fold, you have to make a slight knot (1) in the paper. Be careful, do not fold it too hard or when pressing in the corners to make a star it will be flat and hard to do. After making a slight knot, you must start folding the longer strip to the right and then fold the strip to the left and repeat. When you cannot fold it anymore, tuck in the bottom half of the strip into the remaining folds of the star, or slightly glue or tape it. The last part is to fold the sides down, and you are left with a star shape!
How to store lucky stars
Lucky stars are usually stored in a jar. This jar is then sealed, and wrapped with a cute bow. It is also said that if you fold 1000 (one thousand) lucky stars, you can make a wish!
A recap of materials
Strips of lucky star paper
A jar (shaped or unshaped)
A cute ribbon
How do I buy?
You can buy these all on EBay! Lucky stars come in a variety of colors and sizes. There are plain colored lucky stars and sparkled lucky stars. There are soft lucky stars (which are harder to keep shape!) and harder lucky stars (which in my opinion are a little better to keep shape!). There are also straw kind of material (not paper) to create these with!
Where do I get jars?
You can get jars on EBay as well, or you can even recycle old jelly jars. These jars come in a variety of sizes. My personal favorite are the star shaped jars or the heart shaped jars.
What about ribbons?
You can get the ribbons on EBay as well! The best types of ribbons to get are soft ribbons and not paper. The soft ribbons will bend better. Soft ribbons come in a variety of colors, just like lucky stars. The best thing about ribbons is that you can use them on anything, not just putting a bow on a lucky star container.
Lucky stars are thin folded pieces of paper that are folded into the shape of a star! Though the folding can be difficult to learn, after practice, it will be a skill that you can't forger.
How to fold lucky stars
Lucky stars are a long strip of paper. To fold, you have to make a slight knot (1) in the paper. Be careful, do not fold it too hard or when pressing in the corners to make a star it will be flat and hard to do. After making a slight knot, you must start folding the longer strip to the right and then fold the strip to the left and repeat. When you cannot fold it anymore, tuck in the bottom half of the strip into the remaining folds of the star, or slightly glue or tape it. The last part is to fold the sides down, and you are left with a star shape!
How to store lucky stars
Lucky stars are usually stored in a jar. This jar is then sealed, and wrapped with a cute bow. It is also said that if you fold 1000 (one thousand) lucky stars, you can make a wish!
A recap of materials
Strips of lucky star paper
A jar (shaped or unshaped)
A cute ribbon
How do I buy?
You can buy these all on EBay! Lucky stars come in a variety of colors and sizes. There are plain colored lucky stars and sparkled lucky stars. There are soft lucky stars (which are harder to keep shape!) and harder lucky stars (which in my opinion are a little better to keep shape!). There are also straw kind of material (not paper) to create these with!
Where do I get jars?
You can get jars on EBay as well, or you can even recycle old jelly jars. These jars come in a variety of sizes. My personal favorite are the star shaped jars or the heart shaped jars.
What about ribbons?
You can get the ribbons on EBay as well! The best types of ribbons to get are soft ribbons and not paper. The soft ribbons will bend better. Soft ribbons come in a variety of colors, just like lucky stars. The best thing about ribbons is that you can use them on anything, not just putting a bow on a lucky star container.
Samstag, 3. Mai 2014
I hope someone can help me to find out what should I do to clean it up
I just returned to sell on eBay, I stopped for some time in past I was in another country, now I am selling from US as I moved too here.
1- In the first situation, I have a US Buyer who opened a INR case in 5 days. The buyer paid a item on April 14, Monday, the item was appears received on USPS on April 16 a Wednesday (tracking active), but buyer opened the INR case on April 19 what was a Saturday between Good Friday and Easter:womansad:???????!
I replied for the case explaining about the "almost holiday "Good Friday and Easter" could delay a little but in this case I did not saw delays as the shipping was made with standard mail it not really look like a "case"... Anyway the message from the buyer in the case seams too friendlily, things did not match and soon as I replied for the case buyer closed it and said sorry, explaining he did made a mistake, he did try to send me a message and accidently opened a INR case... I am trust him as from the beginning the message was very weird, as I said to friendlily to be a INR and looked more like a question on why the tracking stopped work on the April 16 and not exactly a question like "where is my item" like usually is on open cases...
Anyway, my problem now is I have a open case against to me in my history and it shows as damage but is clearly a buyer mistake so I like to know if have a way to request ebay to clean it up?
2- The second situation is a buyer who gave me low DSR in shipping and also stated in the feedback it was because the "shipping arrived 4 days after the estimated tho"...
Seriously???!:womanfrustrated:
Well, on the DSR guide lines for buyers there clearly explain they need evaluate the shipping by time, package and everything else "THE SELLER" is responsible for but seller are not linked with the third part delays, the USPS delays... Anyway it was paid on April 13, tracking shows active on April 15 and buyer received product on April 22.... My point here is, the buyer is in US and, yes, it toke more time, I do not have idea why but it did, anyway it was not that much time and was not my fault (also it is very clear on the DSR guide for buyers) so why should I receive a DSR low in my perfect history if the buyer as misunderstanding the guide lines to evaluating it??? How can I request to have it reviewed?
Welcome to the NEW eBay. This is not the eBay of old, not the eBay before PayPal, before DSR's, before defects, before "money back guarantee", before forced returns, before "the buyer is always right".
Yep... miss those days. Waiting a week or more for a check, depositing it (then waiting for it to clear), hand addressing packages, waiting in line at the P.O. (well, not so much). Most of the time it was two weeks BEFORE you even shipped. Then waiting for positive feedback from your buyer (or an email) to insure they received it. And if a buyer didn't pay you gave them a negative feeback.
Yeah... they were definitely "the good old days".Thanks for trying help and it is a correct advice, I know, but it was exactly what I was trying to avoid, trying to find some way to do it by e-mail maybe or something like it? Because I really hate call eBay "time", it is soooooooo frustrating because most of the time we get a person who only know how to read a guide and gave you no matching reply or eider get a unicellular person who can`t say nothing, can`t help with nothing and put you on hold at every second you start a question.... hole s* looks like I will need to deiced if it really worth the work or just let it there until clean alone....
I get what you say about call 2, 3, 4 times (if not more) because long time a go when I called sometimes one tell you no for something, but when you call again seconds after without say you call before they say "oh yes" for you.... Looks like nobody read the system uh?
But what really amuses me is in fact they are "peoples" in the other side of the phone, who got paid for do this low quality service and, worse, probably was trained, even if by a book or for 30 minutes with a call worker... So I wander what is wrong with this peoples? Does eBay just gave a Job for you if you hate life? or if you really don`t have any type of talent and skills?
... Poor of me, who actually have some skills and so have economic problems as can`t find a easy job like hold a phone and gave ** answers to people! And I saying it because I did in my life, in past, work in call center and also in telemarketing and I was helpful to who called and I remember in this days, most of the times, the answer for the customer was not in the book...
Anyway times change and now who have something in need to request help for who does not have nothing there... I wish I was born a very stupid person and I am probably have a easy job now and a very happy life.
Well, I guess I will think if it worth and in case I decide call I will take a good night of sleep, a good relax day and buy a good and strong liquor bottle to make me feel less insulted after the call ends..
Thanks any way for try, looks like I do not have other options :womanfrustrated:
1- In the first situation, I have a US Buyer who opened a INR case in 5 days. The buyer paid a item on April 14, Monday, the item was appears received on USPS on April 16 a Wednesday (tracking active), but buyer opened the INR case on April 19 what was a Saturday between Good Friday and Easter:womansad:???????!
I replied for the case explaining about the "almost holiday "Good Friday and Easter" could delay a little but in this case I did not saw delays as the shipping was made with standard mail it not really look like a "case"... Anyway the message from the buyer in the case seams too friendlily, things did not match and soon as I replied for the case buyer closed it and said sorry, explaining he did made a mistake, he did try to send me a message and accidently opened a INR case... I am trust him as from the beginning the message was very weird, as I said to friendlily to be a INR and looked more like a question on why the tracking stopped work on the April 16 and not exactly a question like "where is my item" like usually is on open cases...
Anyway, my problem now is I have a open case against to me in my history and it shows as damage but is clearly a buyer mistake so I like to know if have a way to request ebay to clean it up?
2- The second situation is a buyer who gave me low DSR in shipping and also stated in the feedback it was because the "shipping arrived 4 days after the estimated tho"...
Seriously???!:womanfrustrated:
Well, on the DSR guide lines for buyers there clearly explain they need evaluate the shipping by time, package and everything else "THE SELLER" is responsible for but seller are not linked with the third part delays, the USPS delays... Anyway it was paid on April 13, tracking shows active on April 15 and buyer received product on April 22.... My point here is, the buyer is in US and, yes, it toke more time, I do not have idea why but it did, anyway it was not that much time and was not my fault (also it is very clear on the DSR guide for buyers) so why should I receive a DSR low in my perfect history if the buyer as misunderstanding the guide lines to evaluating it??? How can I request to have it reviewed?
Welcome to the NEW eBay. This is not the eBay of old, not the eBay before PayPal, before DSR's, before defects, before "money back guarantee", before forced returns, before "the buyer is always right".
Yep... miss those days. Waiting a week or more for a check, depositing it (then waiting for it to clear), hand addressing packages, waiting in line at the P.O. (well, not so much). Most of the time it was two weeks BEFORE you even shipped. Then waiting for positive feedback from your buyer (or an email) to insure they received it. And if a buyer didn't pay you gave them a negative feeback.
Yeah... they were definitely "the good old days".Thanks for trying help and it is a correct advice, I know, but it was exactly what I was trying to avoid, trying to find some way to do it by e-mail maybe or something like it? Because I really hate call eBay "time", it is soooooooo frustrating because most of the time we get a person who only know how to read a guide and gave you no matching reply or eider get a unicellular person who can`t say nothing, can`t help with nothing and put you on hold at every second you start a question.... hole s* looks like I will need to deiced if it really worth the work or just let it there until clean alone....
I get what you say about call 2, 3, 4 times (if not more) because long time a go when I called sometimes one tell you no for something, but when you call again seconds after without say you call before they say "oh yes" for you.... Looks like nobody read the system uh?
But what really amuses me is in fact they are "peoples" in the other side of the phone, who got paid for do this low quality service and, worse, probably was trained, even if by a book or for 30 minutes with a call worker... So I wander what is wrong with this peoples? Does eBay just gave a Job for you if you hate life? or if you really don`t have any type of talent and skills?
... Poor of me, who actually have some skills and so have economic problems as can`t find a easy job like hold a phone and gave ** answers to people! And I saying it because I did in my life, in past, work in call center and also in telemarketing and I was helpful to who called and I remember in this days, most of the times, the answer for the customer was not in the book...
Anyway times change and now who have something in need to request help for who does not have nothing there... I wish I was born a very stupid person and I am probably have a easy job now and a very happy life.
Well, I guess I will think if it worth and in case I decide call I will take a good night of sleep, a good relax day and buy a good and strong liquor bottle to make me feel less insulted after the call ends..
Thanks any way for try, looks like I do not have other options :womanfrustrated:
Clothing Terminology, A To Z Fashion Terms
For those who are new or old to being clothing sellers, here we have tried to put the most accurate dictionary of fashion lingo and clothing terms together as a guide that anyone can use. A list of the most common fabric and fashion terms, listed alphabetically A to Z.
----- A -----
Acid Wash
a process in that a denim garment is treated with a bleach solution containing chlorine-soaked stones so that the color becomes faded and the material is softer.
A-line
A popular silhouette in which the cut flares slightly away from the body to form the shape of an "A."
Acrylic
Synthetic, manufactured fabric that is soft, lightweight and wool-like. Acrylic can be found in winterwear, such as sweaters and fleece.
Angora
Yarn from the long, incredibly soft hair of an angora rabbit or goat.
Anti-pill
Used to describe the wear resistance of a fabric. Fibers in low-quality fabrics tend to twist together, resulting in an uneven and worn look. Anti-pill fleece is specially woven to prevent this from happening.
Argyle
A diamond-shaped plaid pattern on a knit fabric.
----- B -----
Ballistic
A thick, even weave of extremely durable material. Used in luggage for reinforcement and abrasion resistance.
Balmacaan
A loose, single-breasted overcoat usually with a short turnover collar.
Barn jacket
A medium-weight overcoat made of durable cotton (usually twill) that normally has a corduroy collar and large front pockets. With wool or flannel lining.
Basket weave
A variation of a plain weave construction in which two or more warp and filling yarns are woven side by side to resemble a pleated basket.
Batik
A method of dyeing in which parts of fabric are coated with wax, resulting in varying patterns or colors. Often the wax cracks, causing fine lines or streaks.
Bedford
A strong, ribbed fabric that can be made from cotton, wool, silk, or a combination of fibers. It has the same look as corduroy, but usually does not have the heavyweight construction.
Bengaline
This crosswise ribbed fabric has a sturdy, durable weave and offers a great tailored look.
Berber fleece
Usually single-sided, pile-cut fabrics with a knit backing made of polyester/modacrylic. Its most notable characteristic is a nubby, fur-like surface.
Besom pocket
An inset pocket with the lower lip finished with a welt. If both edges have welts, the pocket is called a double besom.
Bias cut
A diagonal cut across a fabric’s grain. Used to create garments that closely trace the body's natural curves for a flattering look.
Bicast leather
A split leather with a layer of polyurethane applied to the surface and then embossed. This results in a product that has an artificially consistent texture, and is easy to clean and maintain.
Biopolished cotton
Fabric treated by an enzyme that removes the roughness on the surface, creating a softer, smoother feel.
Boatneck
A narrow neckline that is open from shoulder to shoulder.
Bodice
The upper part of a dress.
Bohemian Style
Reflecting on the fashion style of "boho-chic". Refers to a state of mind regarding fashion that is individual, romantic, and free-spirited.
Bomber jacket
A loose waist-length jacket with a fitted hem and cuffs. Also referred to as a flight jacket, and typically made of leather with a sheepskin lining and a full collar.
Bonded leather
A material composed of leather fibers and other substances, such as polyurethane, formed together to create the appearance of genuine leather.
Boyfriend cut
Women's apparel cut with a menswear silhouette. Usually relaxed, oversized and cuffed.
Boyshorts
A panty or swimsuit bottom with maximum hip and back coverage.
Boucle
A type of woven or knit fabric with a looped, knotted surface. Boucle is used in lightweight and heavyweight garments, more often the latter because the lofty yarns provide wonderful warmth.
Broadcloth
Fabric that is tightly woven in a plain weave with a crosswise rib. Similar to poplin, but finer. The most common broadcloth is made of cotton or cotton/polyester blends.
Brocade
A heavy fabric woven with an elaborate raised pattern or design, often with metallic or colored thread.
Burlap
A loosely constructed, heavyweight fabric in a plain weave that is very coarse and durable.
Burnout
A technique using a chemical paste that destroys a layer of fabric to create a patterned effect and can sometimes result in a sheer look.
----- C -----
Camisole
A garment with thin spaghetti straps.
Canvas
A medium- to heavyweight type of cotton or linen in a plain or twill weave.
Cap sleeve
This short sleeve extends just over the shoulder for a touch of femininity.
Car coat
A knee-length coat with a flat front placket. This coat was originally designed to make driving a car more comfortable.
Cargo style
Usually loose-fitting pants or shorts with large, military-inspired pockets sewn on the hips and sides of the knees.
Carpenter style
Pants or shorts with handy pockets and loops for holding tools commonly used by a carpenter.
Cashmere
An incredibly soft wool. Considered a luxury fiber because it’s one of the rarest and most expensive fabrics available.
Cashmerlon
A soft, washable acrylic fabric that keeps its shape and feels like cashmere.
Challis
A lightweight, plain-weave fabric made of wool, cotton, or rayon. Its slightly brushed surface creates a silky finish that can easily be dyed and is usually machine washable.
Chambray
A fine, lightweight cloth (usually cotton) in a plain weave with colored, lengthwise threads and a white fill.
Charmeuse
A soft, lightweight silk, cotton, or manmade fabric with a smooth, semi-lustrous satin finish and a matte backing.
Chemise
A loose-fitting, straight nightgown or undergarment. Usually hits at midthigh.
Chenille
Incredibly soft, fuzzy yarns that stand out around a velvety cord.
Chiffon
Lightweight, sheer fabric of twisted filament yarns with a soft weave and an airy drape. Usually woven of silk, but also made of rayon and other synthetic fibers.
Colorfast
Used to describe a dyed fabric's ability to resist fading or running due to washing, exposure to sunlight, and other environmental conditions.
Combed cotton
When cotton is "combed," the shortest, additional fibers of a batch are removed. This process produces high-quality yarns with excellent strength and softness.
Corduroy
A medium- to heavyweight fabric (usually cotton) with a cut-pile weave construction. Extra sets of filling yarns are woven into the fabric to form nap-like cords of yarn on the surface.
Coverlet
A lightweight blanket often used during warmer months. Coverlets have a shorter drop than traditional bedspreads, exposing the frame or bedskirt.
Cover-up
A lightweight garment, such as a sarong, pareo, skirt or hooded jacket, used to cover a swimsuit.
Crochet
A loose, open knit made by looping thread with a hooked needle.
----- D -----
Damask
A rich, glossy fabric usually woven with a variety of elaborate patterns that are flat and reversible.
Dazzle
A lightweight, silky-soft fabric blend that has a slight shine to it. Dazzle is found primarily in active clothing because of its quick-drying capabilities.
Denier
A unit of measuring the thickness/weight of a thinly spun fiber. It indicates the material's durability, plus the fineness of fiber filaments and yarns — both natural and synthetic. The higher the denier, the thicker the fiber; the lower the denier, the finer the fiber.
Distressed
made or processed to appear faded or wrinkled, as if from long, steady use: Our best-selling jeans are the ones in distressed denim.
Dobby
Small, usually geometric patterns that are woven into a fabric.
Dolman
A cape-like sleeve that is very wide at the armhole.
Down
A fluffy, soft fibrous material that grows under the contour feathers of ducks, geese and other waterfowl. Used as a thermal insulator because it’s known for warmth.
Drop stitch
A type of knit where some of the needles are "dropped out" during stitching to produce an open-worked pattern in the fabric. Similar to a wide, ribbed finish.
Duck cloth
A medium-weight cloth (usually cotton) that is soft, breathable and durable. Tightly woven and retains color beautifully.
----- E -----
Egyptian cotton
Cultivated mainly in the Nile River Valley in Egypt, this grade of cotton boasts the longest and strongest fibers.
Embossed
A raised design on the surface created by heated rollers under pressure.
Empire waistband
This waistline begins just below the bust, giving tops or dresses a flowing, flattering fit.
Enzyme-washed
Often describes a garment that has been specially treated for extra softness. Enzyme washing uses special chemicals, or enzymes, to soften the fabric and give the overall garment a "worn-in" look.
Epaulet
An ornamental strip or loop sewn across the shoulder of a garment.
Eyelet
A type of embroidery in which small holes are cut out in the fabric and finished by embellishment of thread around the opening.
----- F -----
Fair Isle
A knitting style characterized by geometric patterns.
Fedora
A soft felt hat that is creased lengthwise down the crown with a pinched front and a brim that can be turned up or down.
Fiber-reactive
A type of printing where the chemical bonds with the cellulose molecules in a product's fabric, so the dye actually saturates the fibers. Fiber-reactive printing produces a more vibrant appearance and tends to have better colorfastness, or fade-resistant properties.
Flocking
A decorative detail in which short fibers are applied to the surface of a fabric in a particular pattern by using an adhesive.
Flounce hem
A strip of fabric attached to one edge of a garment (usually a skirt) to create a wide ruffle.
Foulard
A lightweight twill, woven silk, or silk and cotton blend, usually decorated with a small printed pattern.
French cuff(s)
Turned-up cuff(s) sometimes fastened with cuff links and sometimes contrasting in color.
French terry
The knit jersey version of terry cloth. Features loops of pile on one side and a smooth, brushed finish on the other.
Frog closure
The decorative closing of fabric with cording or braided material which fits over a ball or button to complete the closure.
Full-grain leather
Considered the highest quality of leather because only the hair is removed from the hide, so it retains the full, natural grain.
Funnel neck
A neckline that is high and wide, resembling a funnel. A funnel neck is attached to the body of the garment, not sewn at the neckline.
----- G -----
Gabardine
A firm, tightly woven fabric with a subtle, diagonal line of twill and sometimes a high sheen.
Garment-washed
This term often describes apparel that has been through a standard wash cycle in a commercial washing machine. The repeated exposure in water leads to a softer, worn-in look on the garments.
Georgette
A sheer, crinkled fabric woven from hard-twisted yarns to produce a pebbly surface. Creates a lightweight, flowing look.
Gingham
A middle-weight, checkered or plaid fabric using two or more colors with a plain weave made of cotton.
Godet
A triangular inset of cloth placed in a seam to give fullness (e.g., the bottom of a skirt).
Gored
A section of fabric that is cut narrow at the waist and wide at the hem.
Grosgrain
Strong, closely woven, corded fabric with narrow, horizontal ribs, usually used as trim.
Gusset
A usually diamond-shaped or triangular insert in a seam of the garment to allow for more space or a bigger opening (as of a sleeve, cargo pocket, pocketbook, or shoe upper). In terms of lingerie, a gusset generally refers to the section of fabric between the thighs, often a snap or hook-and-eye closure if it is a piece of shapewear.
----- H -----
Heat-transferred print
A unique type of printing in which art is digitally replicated and printed on the surface of polyester. The dye permanently bonds to the fibers without fading, even after repeated washing.
Henley shirt
A collarless knit top with a closure that stops midway down the shirt.
Herringbone
A broken twill weave with a pattern made up of rows of parallel lines in opposite directions forming a zigzag pattern.
Hook-and-eye closure
A fastening system with a small metal hook that is inserted into a matching eye loop or small metal loop.
Houndstooth
A usually small, distinctively broken-check pattern that resembles the jagged back teeth of a hound.
----- I -----
Ikat
A method of weaving tie-dyed threads to create a rich and lively pattern on a fabric. Ikat fabrics often possess a distinct look based on their region of origin.
Interlock
A type of cut-and-sew knit fabric that is characterized by the interconnecting of the knit stitches.
----- J -----
Jacquard
A decorative woven or knit pattern manufactured by using the jacquard attachment on the loom. Some types of jacquard fabrics have specific names, such as damask and brocade.
Jeggings
A very close fitting jean of heavier weight fabric than a legging, often styled like a jean but can also be a pull-on style.
Jersey
Plain fabric that is knit instead of woven. Soft and breathable, with extra "give" for comfort. Like your favorite tee, jersey gets softer with every washing.
Johnny collar
An open, split neckline with a pointed collar.
----- K -----
Kabuki sleeves
Wide loose-fitting sleeves modeled after the garments worn in traditional Japanese theater. Also known as kimono sleeves.
Kangaroo pouch pocket
A large pocket formed by sewing a piece of cloth over the center or stomach area of the garment leaving both ends open.
Keyhole neckline
A round or teardrop-shaped cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline.
Kimono
A loose-fitting wraparound robe or jacket with wide sleeves. Traditionally worn with a broad sash.
----- L -----
Lambskin
The skin or hide of a young sheep. Also known as "napa" leather, lambskin has fewer blemishes and a more uniform grain than other leathers such as buffalo and cowhide, which make it extra soft and attractive for use in clothing.
Lapels
The folded area on the front of a coat that is usually a continuation of the collar.
Linen
Coarse fibers taken from inside the woody stem of the flax plant. Linen is considered cool, absorbent, breathable and durable.
Lycra
A stretchy spandex fiber introduced in 1958 by DuPont. Usually woven with other fibers to provide extra comfort, movement and shape retention.
Lyocell
A cellulose fiber manufactured from wood pulp. Lustrous and color-rich, lyocell feels like rayon, but it's stronger, more durable and more absorbent, even when wet. It has low-shrinkage and wrinkle-resistant characteristics. (Also, known as the brand name, Tencel)
----- M -----
Macrame
Coarse lacework made by weaving and knotting a series of cords, threads, strings or yarns into a decorative pattern.
Madras
A lightweight, breathable cotton, often in brightly colored plaid patterns, used primarily for warm-weather clothing.
Mandarin collar
A short, standup collar that gives garments a stylish Asian look.
Marled
Interlocked, different-colored fibers are twisted together to create a long, continuous strand resulting in a contrasting effect on the finished garment.
Mary Jane
A shoe style characterized by a single buckled strap over the middle.
Matelasse
French for "cushioned or padded," matelasse patterns add a quilted, puckered look to the material.
Matte
A smooth or sometimes brushed surface that lacks luster and shine.
Melange
A yarn spun from fibers that have been printed in many tones and hues. It resembles tweed, but is very lightweight.
Mercerization
A process of treating a thread, yarn or fabric to increase its luster, color retention and durability. The fabric (usually cotton) is immersed in sodium hydroxide and then neutralized in acid. This causes the fiber to permanently swell, which increases its qualities.
Merino
A type of high-quality wool made from the fleece of purebred merino sheep. It is fine, strong, stretchy and dye-retentive.
Mesh
A type of knit, woven, laced or crocheted fabric with a net-like, open weave. Mesh is lightweight and breathable, which makes it ideal for warm-weather clothing.
Microfiber
An ultrafine synthetic fiber with many applications. It is used in clothing and other textiles because it is soft, stretchy and stain resistant and it wicks away moisture. Microfiber is also ideal for cleaning products because it is non-abrasive, absorbent and leaves no lint or dust.
Microsanded
A unique type of brushing done to fabric that removes its roughness for an extra-soft feel.
Mitered
A popular striped pattern formed by a beveled line where a joint is made by cutting two pieces at an angle and fitting them together.
Mockneck
A stand-up collar that resembles a turtleneck but does not fold over itself like a turtleneck. Usually a mockneck is found on sweaters and jackets.
Modal
Manufactured fiber that's soft, smooth, shape-retentive (even when wet), durable, color-rich and lustrous.
Moire
A corded fabric (usually silk) characterized by having a wavy, watermarked pattern on the surface.
Moisture-wicking
Moisture-wicking fabric transfers moisture from the skin's surface to the garment's outer layer for faster drying.
Muslin
A medium-weight, woven fabric of cotton or cotton/polyester blends. Used in a wide variety of sheers and sheeting.
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Neoprene
A brand of polychloroprene by DuPont®. It's an extremely durable synthetic rubber that is lightweight and buoyant, and has an outstanding resistance to temperature, chlorine and general physical wear.
Nep
Small knots of tangled fibers added intentionally to increase the fabric’s aesthetic appeal. The knots can be made from the same or different color and material.
Nubuck
Nubuck is the top side of leather, slightly sanded to make it more resistant to scuff marks and give it a suede-like feel. Its texture is finer than suede because a superior brushing technique leaves the natural grain pattern intact. It's made from split-grain (half of a hide) or full-grain (entire hide) leather.
Nylon
The first completely synthetic fiber developed by DuPont® in 1938. Known for its strength and excellent stain resilience, nylon boasts superior abrasion resistance and high flexibility. It's often added to natural fibers to boost a garment's durability.
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Olefin
A lightweight, manmade material also known as polypropylene. It has exceptional strength, colorfastness and comfort. It is also resistant to stains, mildew, abrasions and sunlight.
Organza
A lightweight, plain-weave fabric made of nylon, silk, polyester or rayon. Crisp and sheer with a medium to high thread count.
Ottoman rib
A stiff, heavyweight, warp rib (vertical running yarns) sometimes referred to as Ottoman cord.
Oxford cloth
A soft, yet durable, cotton or synthetic blend with a plain or basket weave that boasts a silklike, lustrous finish.
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Paisley
A swirled pattern of fancy, curved teardrop shapes.
Panne
A silk or rayon velvet with lustrous pile flattened in one direction.
Patch pockets
A small pocket, usually found on pants, which looks like a piece of material was sewn on as a patch.
Peached fabric
A soft feel usually obtained by sanding the fabric lightly; it also can be achieved with chemical or laundry abrasion.
Peacoat
A heavy wool coat featuring a double-breasted style and notched collar. Hits at the hip.
Pedal pushers
These women's pants with a straight leg are usually cuffed and fall just below the knee.
Pencil skirt
A skirt that is cut in a straight line from the hips to the hem. The name comes from its pencil-straight appearance.
Peplum
A flowing piece of material attached at the waistline or hemline of a jacket, blouse, skirt or dress designed to create a flared appearance.
Percale
A closely woven plain-weave fabric that's smooth, firm, medium weight and fine. Usually made of cotton from a minimum of 180 threads per square inch.
Peter Pan collar
A small collar that is flat and close-fitting with rounded ends.
Pewter
A mix of metallic alloys, composed mostly of tin. It will not tarnish, rust or deteriorate
Photo real
A screen print with the realistic qualities of a photo.
Picot
A row of tiny decorative loops sewn or cut along the edge of a garment.
Pieced
A design that is created by sewing pieces of material together to form the garment.
Pigment dye
A type of dye applied and held to the fabric with resins and cured at high temperatures. Boasts excellent features for light colors and less so for darker shades.
Pile knit
A type of knit with a decorative pattern of yarns interlaced to create loops, most often used in faux fabrics.
Pile weave
A type of weave with a decorative pattern of yarns interlaced to create loops.
Pill
A term used to describe small balls of fibers tangled together on a fabric (usually fleece). Pills are generally caused by wear and tear producing an uneven, worn look.
Pima cotton
One of the best grades of cotton in the world with long, luxurious fibers.
Pinpoint
A type of weave with two-over, one-under stitching. More durable than most weaves but less soft than sateen.
Pintuck
A small, narrow fold of fabric stitched together to create the appearance of a line or stripe.
Piping
A narrow fold of fabric that creates a corded outline on the garment, usually as contrasting trim.
Pique
A woven or knit fabric usually made of cotton, rayon or silk. Medium- or heavyweight, it's characterized by raised cords, or ribs, in all-over waffle, honeycomb or diamond patterns.
Placket
The piece of cloth that reinforces an opening that is the closure of the garment.
Plaited
The interweaving of strands or locks of a fabrication, so that one yarn appears only on the face and the second on the back.
Pointelle
A stitch used in knitting to create a tiny, open-worked pattern typically with geometric shapes. It adds a lightweight, delicate texture to clothing.
Polypropylene
A lightweight, manmade material characterized by a high-strength, abrasive quality. Also boasts moisture-absorbing, stain- and fade-resistant qualities. (Also known as Olefin)
Polyresin
A combination of polyester and resin metals reinforced with fiberglass mat.
Polystyrene
A lightweight plastic often used for insulation. Its heat- and shape-retention abilities make it moldable and comfortable. Commonly used to fill beanbag chairs.
Ponte
A design with stability, firmness, subtle sheen and incredible durability.
Poplin
A tightly woven plain-weave fabric characterized by fine, crisscrossing ribs. A durable fabric, poplin is usually made of cotton but can also be silk, wool or synthetic blends.
Pork chop pockets
Front pockets on a pair of pants, shorts or a skirt that are characterized as being oversized and rectangular.
Preshrunk
A term used to describe fabrics or garments, especially tees, that have received treatment to prevent it from additional shrinkage when washed.
Prewashed
A term used to describe fabrics or garments, especially tees and jeans, which have already been washed to add softness and prevent shrinking.
Princess seams
Seams that are on the front or back of a garment that create a flattering, form-fitting shape.
Puffed ink
A decorative detail added to screen prints to give them a raised surface.
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Raffia
Material obtained from the leaves of the raffia palm, a plant in Madagascar with featherlike leaves that yield strong, flexible fibers. After the fibers are peeled from the stem of the leaves, they're dried in the sun.
Raglan
A sleeve style that is cut with the armhole seam running from under the arm to the neckline. It's commonly known for a contrasting long-sleeved look.
Ramie
A woody fiber characterized as being extremely durable.
Raschel knit
An open-worked knit construction, where heavy, coarse yarns are held in place by finer yarns. It has good draping qualities and is frequently used as an unlined material for coats, lingerie and dresses.
Rayon
A group of smooth, synthetic fibers manufactured from cotton linters, wood pulp or other vegetable matter. It’s known for excellent softness, drape, high absorption and a lustrous look.
Resin
A natural or synthetic compound. It's a lightweight and tough material. Plastic is an example of a synthetic resin.
Rib
A type of knit fabric characterized with a ridge effect in one direction, usually vertical. Rib knits are extremely elastic and often used in apparel to provide a comfy, body-hugging fit.
Ricrac
A decorative trim on clothing featuring a flat fabric that forms a zigzag pattern.
Ringspun fabric
Fiber (usually cotton) spun prior to knitting, so it's finer, softer and more durable than ordinary cotton.
Ripstop
A very fine fabric (usually nylon) plainly woven with coarse fibers ribbed at intervals to stop tears. Lightweight and durable, ripstop also boasts wind and water resistance.
Rosette
A fabric embellishment that's pleated and ruffled to resemble a rose.
Ruching
A pleated or gathered strip of fabric used as a decorative, feminine accent.
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Sandwashed
Garments that have been specially treated with sand creating a softer, worn-in look and feel.
Santoprene
A synthetic material with a soft, nonslip surface that absorbs shock and reduces fatigue. These properties make it ideal for grips and handles.
Sarong
A loose-fitting, long strip of fabric that is often worn around the waist like a skirt, or wrapped around the whole body like a dress. It is a very popular form of a swimsuit cover-up.
Sateen
A type of fabric weave that creates a soft, smooth, lustrous surface.
Satin
A fabric with a silky, lustrous finish. The fabric's long, interlaced yarns have no visible pattern, which creates a smooth, shiny surface.
Scooter
Skirt with attached undershorts that offers the look of a skirt with the modesty and comfort of shorts.
Screen print
A picture or design printed on a garment using the silk-screen process.
Seedstitching
A type of stitch that creates a textured finish and looks like a continuous pattern of seeds.
Seersucker
A woven, light- to medium-weight fabric with a puckered appearance made of cotton or rayon.
Shark-bite (4-point) hem
A border of cloth that has an uneven cut with two points in the front and two points in the back. It resembles a "shark bite" because of its jagged look.
Sheath
A dress that is characterized by having a straight, form-fitting skirt and bodice. Usually hits just below the knee, often with a slit in the sides or back for ease of movement.
Sheeting
A lightweight, woven fabric made from cotton or linen. It sometimes has a crinkled texture and is commonly used for seasonal bottoms like capris.
Sherpa (fleece)
Knit terry fabric brushed and washed to raise the fibers for a fluffy, plush feel. The thick terry loops stay soft and absorbent over time.
Shift
A loose-fitting dress that lacks a defined waistline. It tends to hit above the knee and is commonly sleeveless.
Shirred
Gathered material that creates pleated details.
Silk
This natural fiber is known as one of the finest textiles because of its softness and radiant sheen.
Simplex
A ribbed V-knit material (usually nylon) offering firm support, shape retention, and elasticity.
Sinamay
An open-weave, straw-like fabric spun from banana plant fibers. Usually dyed and stiffened, but pliable, and mainly used in the production of hats.
Skant
Pants that have flaps of fabric sewn on at the waist to create a skirt-like appearance.
Skimmer pants
Cropped pants with a straight-leg fit that skims the knee. A stylish cross between Bermuda shorts and capris.
Skort
A pair of shorts that have a fabric covering sewn on the front to create a skirt-like appearance. The back may also be skirt-like, or the garment may look like shorts from the back.
Slubbed
A process where a fabric (usually silk or cotton) is slightly twisted or drawn out, producing an intentional unevenly textured appearance.
Soutache
A flat, decorative braid usually consisting of narrow loops, similar to crochet. Most commonly used as a trim or accent on women’s clothing.
Space-dyed
A dye process in which individual strands receive more than one color at irregular intervals.
Spaghetti straps
Very thin straps attached to a bodice.
Sublimation
A technique in fabric achieved through the infusion of an image onto the thread of a fabric so that it does not affect the surface of the garment. Unlike screen printing, where the ink lays on top of the garment, this process creates permanent images that will not crack or fade.
Suede
The softer side of leather, which has been brushed, leaving a velvetlike texture.
Sueded fleece
A very smooth and luxurious fabric that involves a unique finishing process to gently sand the fabric making it very soft.
Supima
An abbreviation for "superior pima." Made of 100% American pima cotton or extra-long staple cotton.
Surplice
A neckline formed when one piece of fabric overlaps the other to create a V-neck opening.
Sweep
The circumference of the bottom hem of a skirt, coat, or dress.
Sweetheart neckline
A curved neckline with a scalloped trim that is similar to the top half of a heart.
Swiss dot
Woven, flocked or embroidered dots on a sheer, lightweight fabric providing a textured pattern.
Synthetic
Used to describe manufactured materials made to imitate a natural material.
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Taffeta
A medium-weight, plain-weave fabric with a slightly ribbed texture that is known for its luster.
Tape yarn
A pure cotton yarn used to create a narrow, woven fabric. It is a soft with an airy texture and ideal for warmer temperatures.
Trapunto
A type of quilting with two or more rows of stitches and a padded underside which give it a raised effect.
Tricot
A knit fabric formed by interlooping adjacent, parallel yarns. Known for being exceptionally soft and versatile.
Tricotine
A lightweight, breathable wool made of lightly twisted yarns in a double twill.
Tunic
A simple pullover blouse or jacket that falls at the hip. It was designed from two pieces of linen sewn up the sides and across the top with holes left for the head and arms.
Turtleneck
A standup collar that folds down over itself, usually found on sweaters.
Tweed
A middle- to heavyweight, woolen fabric with color-speckled yarns.
Twill
A woven fabric characterized by distinct, diagonal lines on the surface. It's very strong, yet relatively lightweight.
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Variegated
A pattern having streaks or marks in different colors. Variegated ribs will have a slight difference in the colors between the ribs.
Velboa
A polyester construction that is a cross between fur and velvet. It is usually a medium-weight, short-pile textile. The result is a faux-fur fabric that is very luxurious and plush.
Velour
A medium-weight, tightly woven or knit fabric, usually made of cotton, with qualities similar to velvet. It’s soft and plush with a close, dense pile.
Velvet
A woven, medium-weight fabric made of silk, cotton or rayon. Its pile is cut and brushed for a rich, plush texture that stands straight up.
Velveteen
A woven, cotton fabric with a velvet-like pile.
Vinyl
A versatile plastic with physical properties that make it ideal for a wide variety of consumer products. Depending on its application, vinyl can be any thickness or color, it can be rigid or flexible, and it can also be weather-, heat- or impact-resistant.
Viscose
The most common type of rayon, it is manufactured from wood pulp and treated with chemicals. The result is a soft and absorbent fabric.
Voile
A fine, sheer fabric with a slightly crisp feel. Usually made from plain woven cotton, but can also be made from acetate, silk or rayon.
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Waffle weave
A fabric pattern characterized by having recessed squares on the surface that resemble a waffle.
Welt
A run-resistant, double-edged strip or insert for embellishment or reinforcement.
Whipstitching
A type of stitch that passes diagonally over a fabric's edge.
Windowpane
A checkered pattern characterized by vertical and horizontal lines that intersect to form the appearance of a windowpane.
Wool
A thick, heavy natural fiber, usually spun from the fleece of lambs and sheep.
Worsted wool
A smooth, compact yarn from long wood fibers used especially for firm, napless fabrics.
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Yarn-dyed
A dyeing process where yarns are immersed in a coloring solution and then woven or knit to make fabric. The colors stay brighter longer.
Yoke
Seams across the top of pants, a skirt or a shirt that create an inverted triangle shape.
Yoryu
Made with synthetic materials such as polyester or rayon, this lightweight, durable fabric has a pleated crinkle effect.
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Acid Wash
a process in that a denim garment is treated with a bleach solution containing chlorine-soaked stones so that the color becomes faded and the material is softer.
A-line
A popular silhouette in which the cut flares slightly away from the body to form the shape of an "A."
Acrylic
Synthetic, manufactured fabric that is soft, lightweight and wool-like. Acrylic can be found in winterwear, such as sweaters and fleece.
Angora
Yarn from the long, incredibly soft hair of an angora rabbit or goat.
Anti-pill
Used to describe the wear resistance of a fabric. Fibers in low-quality fabrics tend to twist together, resulting in an uneven and worn look. Anti-pill fleece is specially woven to prevent this from happening.
Argyle
A diamond-shaped plaid pattern on a knit fabric.
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Ballistic
A thick, even weave of extremely durable material. Used in luggage for reinforcement and abrasion resistance.
Balmacaan
A loose, single-breasted overcoat usually with a short turnover collar.
Barn jacket
A medium-weight overcoat made of durable cotton (usually twill) that normally has a corduroy collar and large front pockets. With wool or flannel lining.
Basket weave
A variation of a plain weave construction in which two or more warp and filling yarns are woven side by side to resemble a pleated basket.
Batik
A method of dyeing in which parts of fabric are coated with wax, resulting in varying patterns or colors. Often the wax cracks, causing fine lines or streaks.
Bedford
A strong, ribbed fabric that can be made from cotton, wool, silk, or a combination of fibers. It has the same look as corduroy, but usually does not have the heavyweight construction.
Bengaline
This crosswise ribbed fabric has a sturdy, durable weave and offers a great tailored look.
Berber fleece
Usually single-sided, pile-cut fabrics with a knit backing made of polyester/modacrylic. Its most notable characteristic is a nubby, fur-like surface.
Besom pocket
An inset pocket with the lower lip finished with a welt. If both edges have welts, the pocket is called a double besom.
Bias cut
A diagonal cut across a fabric’s grain. Used to create garments that closely trace the body's natural curves for a flattering look.
Bicast leather
A split leather with a layer of polyurethane applied to the surface and then embossed. This results in a product that has an artificially consistent texture, and is easy to clean and maintain.
Biopolished cotton
Fabric treated by an enzyme that removes the roughness on the surface, creating a softer, smoother feel.
Boatneck
A narrow neckline that is open from shoulder to shoulder.
Bodice
The upper part of a dress.
Bohemian Style
Reflecting on the fashion style of "boho-chic". Refers to a state of mind regarding fashion that is individual, romantic, and free-spirited.
Bomber jacket
A loose waist-length jacket with a fitted hem and cuffs. Also referred to as a flight jacket, and typically made of leather with a sheepskin lining and a full collar.
Bonded leather
A material composed of leather fibers and other substances, such as polyurethane, formed together to create the appearance of genuine leather.
Boyfriend cut
Women's apparel cut with a menswear silhouette. Usually relaxed, oversized and cuffed.
Boyshorts
A panty or swimsuit bottom with maximum hip and back coverage.
Boucle
A type of woven or knit fabric with a looped, knotted surface. Boucle is used in lightweight and heavyweight garments, more often the latter because the lofty yarns provide wonderful warmth.
Broadcloth
Fabric that is tightly woven in a plain weave with a crosswise rib. Similar to poplin, but finer. The most common broadcloth is made of cotton or cotton/polyester blends.
Brocade
A heavy fabric woven with an elaborate raised pattern or design, often with metallic or colored thread.
Burlap
A loosely constructed, heavyweight fabric in a plain weave that is very coarse and durable.
Burnout
A technique using a chemical paste that destroys a layer of fabric to create a patterned effect and can sometimes result in a sheer look.
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Camisole
A garment with thin spaghetti straps.
Canvas
A medium- to heavyweight type of cotton or linen in a plain or twill weave.
Cap sleeve
This short sleeve extends just over the shoulder for a touch of femininity.
Car coat
A knee-length coat with a flat front placket. This coat was originally designed to make driving a car more comfortable.
Cargo style
Usually loose-fitting pants or shorts with large, military-inspired pockets sewn on the hips and sides of the knees.
Carpenter style
Pants or shorts with handy pockets and loops for holding tools commonly used by a carpenter.
Cashmere
An incredibly soft wool. Considered a luxury fiber because it’s one of the rarest and most expensive fabrics available.
Cashmerlon
A soft, washable acrylic fabric that keeps its shape and feels like cashmere.
Challis
A lightweight, plain-weave fabric made of wool, cotton, or rayon. Its slightly brushed surface creates a silky finish that can easily be dyed and is usually machine washable.
Chambray
A fine, lightweight cloth (usually cotton) in a plain weave with colored, lengthwise threads and a white fill.
Charmeuse
A soft, lightweight silk, cotton, or manmade fabric with a smooth, semi-lustrous satin finish and a matte backing.
Chemise
A loose-fitting, straight nightgown or undergarment. Usually hits at midthigh.
Chenille
Incredibly soft, fuzzy yarns that stand out around a velvety cord.
Chiffon
Lightweight, sheer fabric of twisted filament yarns with a soft weave and an airy drape. Usually woven of silk, but also made of rayon and other synthetic fibers.
Colorfast
Used to describe a dyed fabric's ability to resist fading or running due to washing, exposure to sunlight, and other environmental conditions.
Combed cotton
When cotton is "combed," the shortest, additional fibers of a batch are removed. This process produces high-quality yarns with excellent strength and softness.
Corduroy
A medium- to heavyweight fabric (usually cotton) with a cut-pile weave construction. Extra sets of filling yarns are woven into the fabric to form nap-like cords of yarn on the surface.
Coverlet
A lightweight blanket often used during warmer months. Coverlets have a shorter drop than traditional bedspreads, exposing the frame or bedskirt.
Cover-up
A lightweight garment, such as a sarong, pareo, skirt or hooded jacket, used to cover a swimsuit.
Crochet
A loose, open knit made by looping thread with a hooked needle.
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Damask
A rich, glossy fabric usually woven with a variety of elaborate patterns that are flat and reversible.
Dazzle
A lightweight, silky-soft fabric blend that has a slight shine to it. Dazzle is found primarily in active clothing because of its quick-drying capabilities.
Denier
A unit of measuring the thickness/weight of a thinly spun fiber. It indicates the material's durability, plus the fineness of fiber filaments and yarns — both natural and synthetic. The higher the denier, the thicker the fiber; the lower the denier, the finer the fiber.
Distressed
made or processed to appear faded or wrinkled, as if from long, steady use: Our best-selling jeans are the ones in distressed denim.
Dobby
Small, usually geometric patterns that are woven into a fabric.
Dolman
A cape-like sleeve that is very wide at the armhole.
Down
A fluffy, soft fibrous material that grows under the contour feathers of ducks, geese and other waterfowl. Used as a thermal insulator because it’s known for warmth.
Drop stitch
A type of knit where some of the needles are "dropped out" during stitching to produce an open-worked pattern in the fabric. Similar to a wide, ribbed finish.
Duck cloth
A medium-weight cloth (usually cotton) that is soft, breathable and durable. Tightly woven and retains color beautifully.
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Egyptian cotton
Cultivated mainly in the Nile River Valley in Egypt, this grade of cotton boasts the longest and strongest fibers.
Embossed
A raised design on the surface created by heated rollers under pressure.
Empire waistband
This waistline begins just below the bust, giving tops or dresses a flowing, flattering fit.
Enzyme-washed
Often describes a garment that has been specially treated for extra softness. Enzyme washing uses special chemicals, or enzymes, to soften the fabric and give the overall garment a "worn-in" look.
Epaulet
An ornamental strip or loop sewn across the shoulder of a garment.
Eyelet
A type of embroidery in which small holes are cut out in the fabric and finished by embellishment of thread around the opening.
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Fair Isle
A knitting style characterized by geometric patterns.
Fedora
A soft felt hat that is creased lengthwise down the crown with a pinched front and a brim that can be turned up or down.
Fiber-reactive
A type of printing where the chemical bonds with the cellulose molecules in a product's fabric, so the dye actually saturates the fibers. Fiber-reactive printing produces a more vibrant appearance and tends to have better colorfastness, or fade-resistant properties.
Flocking
A decorative detail in which short fibers are applied to the surface of a fabric in a particular pattern by using an adhesive.
Flounce hem
A strip of fabric attached to one edge of a garment (usually a skirt) to create a wide ruffle.
Foulard
A lightweight twill, woven silk, or silk and cotton blend, usually decorated with a small printed pattern.
French cuff(s)
Turned-up cuff(s) sometimes fastened with cuff links and sometimes contrasting in color.
French terry
The knit jersey version of terry cloth. Features loops of pile on one side and a smooth, brushed finish on the other.
Frog closure
The decorative closing of fabric with cording or braided material which fits over a ball or button to complete the closure.
Full-grain leather
Considered the highest quality of leather because only the hair is removed from the hide, so it retains the full, natural grain.
Funnel neck
A neckline that is high and wide, resembling a funnel. A funnel neck is attached to the body of the garment, not sewn at the neckline.
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Gabardine
A firm, tightly woven fabric with a subtle, diagonal line of twill and sometimes a high sheen.
Garment-washed
This term often describes apparel that has been through a standard wash cycle in a commercial washing machine. The repeated exposure in water leads to a softer, worn-in look on the garments.
Georgette
A sheer, crinkled fabric woven from hard-twisted yarns to produce a pebbly surface. Creates a lightweight, flowing look.
Gingham
A middle-weight, checkered or plaid fabric using two or more colors with a plain weave made of cotton.
Godet
A triangular inset of cloth placed in a seam to give fullness (e.g., the bottom of a skirt).
Gored
A section of fabric that is cut narrow at the waist and wide at the hem.
Grosgrain
Strong, closely woven, corded fabric with narrow, horizontal ribs, usually used as trim.
Gusset
A usually diamond-shaped or triangular insert in a seam of the garment to allow for more space or a bigger opening (as of a sleeve, cargo pocket, pocketbook, or shoe upper). In terms of lingerie, a gusset generally refers to the section of fabric between the thighs, often a snap or hook-and-eye closure if it is a piece of shapewear.
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Heat-transferred print
A unique type of printing in which art is digitally replicated and printed on the surface of polyester. The dye permanently bonds to the fibers without fading, even after repeated washing.
Henley shirt
A collarless knit top with a closure that stops midway down the shirt.
Herringbone
A broken twill weave with a pattern made up of rows of parallel lines in opposite directions forming a zigzag pattern.
Hook-and-eye closure
A fastening system with a small metal hook that is inserted into a matching eye loop or small metal loop.
Houndstooth
A usually small, distinctively broken-check pattern that resembles the jagged back teeth of a hound.
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Ikat
A method of weaving tie-dyed threads to create a rich and lively pattern on a fabric. Ikat fabrics often possess a distinct look based on their region of origin.
Interlock
A type of cut-and-sew knit fabric that is characterized by the interconnecting of the knit stitches.
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Jacquard
A decorative woven or knit pattern manufactured by using the jacquard attachment on the loom. Some types of jacquard fabrics have specific names, such as damask and brocade.
Jeggings
A very close fitting jean of heavier weight fabric than a legging, often styled like a jean but can also be a pull-on style.
Jersey
Plain fabric that is knit instead of woven. Soft and breathable, with extra "give" for comfort. Like your favorite tee, jersey gets softer with every washing.
Johnny collar
An open, split neckline with a pointed collar.
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Kabuki sleeves
Wide loose-fitting sleeves modeled after the garments worn in traditional Japanese theater. Also known as kimono sleeves.
Kangaroo pouch pocket
A large pocket formed by sewing a piece of cloth over the center or stomach area of the garment leaving both ends open.
Keyhole neckline
A round or teardrop-shaped cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline.
Kimono
A loose-fitting wraparound robe or jacket with wide sleeves. Traditionally worn with a broad sash.
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Lambskin
The skin or hide of a young sheep. Also known as "napa" leather, lambskin has fewer blemishes and a more uniform grain than other leathers such as buffalo and cowhide, which make it extra soft and attractive for use in clothing.
Lapels
The folded area on the front of a coat that is usually a continuation of the collar.
Linen
Coarse fibers taken from inside the woody stem of the flax plant. Linen is considered cool, absorbent, breathable and durable.
Lycra
A stretchy spandex fiber introduced in 1958 by DuPont. Usually woven with other fibers to provide extra comfort, movement and shape retention.
Lyocell
A cellulose fiber manufactured from wood pulp. Lustrous and color-rich, lyocell feels like rayon, but it's stronger, more durable and more absorbent, even when wet. It has low-shrinkage and wrinkle-resistant characteristics. (Also, known as the brand name, Tencel)
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Macrame
Coarse lacework made by weaving and knotting a series of cords, threads, strings or yarns into a decorative pattern.
Madras
A lightweight, breathable cotton, often in brightly colored plaid patterns, used primarily for warm-weather clothing.
Mandarin collar
A short, standup collar that gives garments a stylish Asian look.
Marled
Interlocked, different-colored fibers are twisted together to create a long, continuous strand resulting in a contrasting effect on the finished garment.
Mary Jane
A shoe style characterized by a single buckled strap over the middle.
Matelasse
French for "cushioned or padded," matelasse patterns add a quilted, puckered look to the material.
Matte
A smooth or sometimes brushed surface that lacks luster and shine.
Melange
A yarn spun from fibers that have been printed in many tones and hues. It resembles tweed, but is very lightweight.
Mercerization
A process of treating a thread, yarn or fabric to increase its luster, color retention and durability. The fabric (usually cotton) is immersed in sodium hydroxide and then neutralized in acid. This causes the fiber to permanently swell, which increases its qualities.
Merino
A type of high-quality wool made from the fleece of purebred merino sheep. It is fine, strong, stretchy and dye-retentive.
Mesh
A type of knit, woven, laced or crocheted fabric with a net-like, open weave. Mesh is lightweight and breathable, which makes it ideal for warm-weather clothing.
Microfiber
An ultrafine synthetic fiber with many applications. It is used in clothing and other textiles because it is soft, stretchy and stain resistant and it wicks away moisture. Microfiber is also ideal for cleaning products because it is non-abrasive, absorbent and leaves no lint or dust.
Microsanded
A unique type of brushing done to fabric that removes its roughness for an extra-soft feel.
Mitered
A popular striped pattern formed by a beveled line where a joint is made by cutting two pieces at an angle and fitting them together.
Mockneck
A stand-up collar that resembles a turtleneck but does not fold over itself like a turtleneck. Usually a mockneck is found on sweaters and jackets.
Modal
Manufactured fiber that's soft, smooth, shape-retentive (even when wet), durable, color-rich and lustrous.
Moire
A corded fabric (usually silk) characterized by having a wavy, watermarked pattern on the surface.
Moisture-wicking
Moisture-wicking fabric transfers moisture from the skin's surface to the garment's outer layer for faster drying.
Muslin
A medium-weight, woven fabric of cotton or cotton/polyester blends. Used in a wide variety of sheers and sheeting.
----- N -----
Neoprene
A brand of polychloroprene by DuPont®. It's an extremely durable synthetic rubber that is lightweight and buoyant, and has an outstanding resistance to temperature, chlorine and general physical wear.
Nep
Small knots of tangled fibers added intentionally to increase the fabric’s aesthetic appeal. The knots can be made from the same or different color and material.
Nubuck
Nubuck is the top side of leather, slightly sanded to make it more resistant to scuff marks and give it a suede-like feel. Its texture is finer than suede because a superior brushing technique leaves the natural grain pattern intact. It's made from split-grain (half of a hide) or full-grain (entire hide) leather.
Nylon
The first completely synthetic fiber developed by DuPont® in 1938. Known for its strength and excellent stain resilience, nylon boasts superior abrasion resistance and high flexibility. It's often added to natural fibers to boost a garment's durability.
----- O -----
Olefin
A lightweight, manmade material also known as polypropylene. It has exceptional strength, colorfastness and comfort. It is also resistant to stains, mildew, abrasions and sunlight.
Organza
A lightweight, plain-weave fabric made of nylon, silk, polyester or rayon. Crisp and sheer with a medium to high thread count.
Ottoman rib
A stiff, heavyweight, warp rib (vertical running yarns) sometimes referred to as Ottoman cord.
Oxford cloth
A soft, yet durable, cotton or synthetic blend with a plain or basket weave that boasts a silklike, lustrous finish.
----- P -----
Paisley
A swirled pattern of fancy, curved teardrop shapes.
Panne
A silk or rayon velvet with lustrous pile flattened in one direction.
Patch pockets
A small pocket, usually found on pants, which looks like a piece of material was sewn on as a patch.
Peached fabric
A soft feel usually obtained by sanding the fabric lightly; it also can be achieved with chemical or laundry abrasion.
Peacoat
A heavy wool coat featuring a double-breasted style and notched collar. Hits at the hip.
Pedal pushers
These women's pants with a straight leg are usually cuffed and fall just below the knee.
Pencil skirt
A skirt that is cut in a straight line from the hips to the hem. The name comes from its pencil-straight appearance.
Peplum
A flowing piece of material attached at the waistline or hemline of a jacket, blouse, skirt or dress designed to create a flared appearance.
Percale
A closely woven plain-weave fabric that's smooth, firm, medium weight and fine. Usually made of cotton from a minimum of 180 threads per square inch.
Peter Pan collar
A small collar that is flat and close-fitting with rounded ends.
Pewter
A mix of metallic alloys, composed mostly of tin. It will not tarnish, rust or deteriorate
Photo real
A screen print with the realistic qualities of a photo.
Picot
A row of tiny decorative loops sewn or cut along the edge of a garment.
Pieced
A design that is created by sewing pieces of material together to form the garment.
Pigment dye
A type of dye applied and held to the fabric with resins and cured at high temperatures. Boasts excellent features for light colors and less so for darker shades.
Pile knit
A type of knit with a decorative pattern of yarns interlaced to create loops, most often used in faux fabrics.
Pile weave
A type of weave with a decorative pattern of yarns interlaced to create loops.
Pill
A term used to describe small balls of fibers tangled together on a fabric (usually fleece). Pills are generally caused by wear and tear producing an uneven, worn look.
Pima cotton
One of the best grades of cotton in the world with long, luxurious fibers.
Pinpoint
A type of weave with two-over, one-under stitching. More durable than most weaves but less soft than sateen.
Pintuck
A small, narrow fold of fabric stitched together to create the appearance of a line or stripe.
Piping
A narrow fold of fabric that creates a corded outline on the garment, usually as contrasting trim.
Pique
A woven or knit fabric usually made of cotton, rayon or silk. Medium- or heavyweight, it's characterized by raised cords, or ribs, in all-over waffle, honeycomb or diamond patterns.
Placket
The piece of cloth that reinforces an opening that is the closure of the garment.
Plaited
The interweaving of strands or locks of a fabrication, so that one yarn appears only on the face and the second on the back.
Pointelle
A stitch used in knitting to create a tiny, open-worked pattern typically with geometric shapes. It adds a lightweight, delicate texture to clothing.
Polypropylene
A lightweight, manmade material characterized by a high-strength, abrasive quality. Also boasts moisture-absorbing, stain- and fade-resistant qualities. (Also known as Olefin)
Polyresin
A combination of polyester and resin metals reinforced with fiberglass mat.
Polystyrene
A lightweight plastic often used for insulation. Its heat- and shape-retention abilities make it moldable and comfortable. Commonly used to fill beanbag chairs.
Ponte
A design with stability, firmness, subtle sheen and incredible durability.
Poplin
A tightly woven plain-weave fabric characterized by fine, crisscrossing ribs. A durable fabric, poplin is usually made of cotton but can also be silk, wool or synthetic blends.
Pork chop pockets
Front pockets on a pair of pants, shorts or a skirt that are characterized as being oversized and rectangular.
Preshrunk
A term used to describe fabrics or garments, especially tees, that have received treatment to prevent it from additional shrinkage when washed.
Prewashed
A term used to describe fabrics or garments, especially tees and jeans, which have already been washed to add softness and prevent shrinking.
Princess seams
Seams that are on the front or back of a garment that create a flattering, form-fitting shape.
Puffed ink
A decorative detail added to screen prints to give them a raised surface.
----- R -----
Raffia
Material obtained from the leaves of the raffia palm, a plant in Madagascar with featherlike leaves that yield strong, flexible fibers. After the fibers are peeled from the stem of the leaves, they're dried in the sun.
Raglan
A sleeve style that is cut with the armhole seam running from under the arm to the neckline. It's commonly known for a contrasting long-sleeved look.
Ramie
A woody fiber characterized as being extremely durable.
Raschel knit
An open-worked knit construction, where heavy, coarse yarns are held in place by finer yarns. It has good draping qualities and is frequently used as an unlined material for coats, lingerie and dresses.
Rayon
A group of smooth, synthetic fibers manufactured from cotton linters, wood pulp or other vegetable matter. It’s known for excellent softness, drape, high absorption and a lustrous look.
Resin
A natural or synthetic compound. It's a lightweight and tough material. Plastic is an example of a synthetic resin.
Rib
A type of knit fabric characterized with a ridge effect in one direction, usually vertical. Rib knits are extremely elastic and often used in apparel to provide a comfy, body-hugging fit.
Ricrac
A decorative trim on clothing featuring a flat fabric that forms a zigzag pattern.
Ringspun fabric
Fiber (usually cotton) spun prior to knitting, so it's finer, softer and more durable than ordinary cotton.
Ripstop
A very fine fabric (usually nylon) plainly woven with coarse fibers ribbed at intervals to stop tears. Lightweight and durable, ripstop also boasts wind and water resistance.
Rosette
A fabric embellishment that's pleated and ruffled to resemble a rose.
Ruching
A pleated or gathered strip of fabric used as a decorative, feminine accent.
----- S -----
Sandwashed
Garments that have been specially treated with sand creating a softer, worn-in look and feel.
Santoprene
A synthetic material with a soft, nonslip surface that absorbs shock and reduces fatigue. These properties make it ideal for grips and handles.
Sarong
A loose-fitting, long strip of fabric that is often worn around the waist like a skirt, or wrapped around the whole body like a dress. It is a very popular form of a swimsuit cover-up.
Sateen
A type of fabric weave that creates a soft, smooth, lustrous surface.
Satin
A fabric with a silky, lustrous finish. The fabric's long, interlaced yarns have no visible pattern, which creates a smooth, shiny surface.
Scooter
Skirt with attached undershorts that offers the look of a skirt with the modesty and comfort of shorts.
Screen print
A picture or design printed on a garment using the silk-screen process.
Seedstitching
A type of stitch that creates a textured finish and looks like a continuous pattern of seeds.
Seersucker
A woven, light- to medium-weight fabric with a puckered appearance made of cotton or rayon.
Shark-bite (4-point) hem
A border of cloth that has an uneven cut with two points in the front and two points in the back. It resembles a "shark bite" because of its jagged look.
Sheath
A dress that is characterized by having a straight, form-fitting skirt and bodice. Usually hits just below the knee, often with a slit in the sides or back for ease of movement.
Sheeting
A lightweight, woven fabric made from cotton or linen. It sometimes has a crinkled texture and is commonly used for seasonal bottoms like capris.
Sherpa (fleece)
Knit terry fabric brushed and washed to raise the fibers for a fluffy, plush feel. The thick terry loops stay soft and absorbent over time.
Shift
A loose-fitting dress that lacks a defined waistline. It tends to hit above the knee and is commonly sleeveless.
Shirred
Gathered material that creates pleated details.
Silk
This natural fiber is known as one of the finest textiles because of its softness and radiant sheen.
Simplex
A ribbed V-knit material (usually nylon) offering firm support, shape retention, and elasticity.
Sinamay
An open-weave, straw-like fabric spun from banana plant fibers. Usually dyed and stiffened, but pliable, and mainly used in the production of hats.
Skant
Pants that have flaps of fabric sewn on at the waist to create a skirt-like appearance.
Skimmer pants
Cropped pants with a straight-leg fit that skims the knee. A stylish cross between Bermuda shorts and capris.
Skort
A pair of shorts that have a fabric covering sewn on the front to create a skirt-like appearance. The back may also be skirt-like, or the garment may look like shorts from the back.
Slubbed
A process where a fabric (usually silk or cotton) is slightly twisted or drawn out, producing an intentional unevenly textured appearance.
Soutache
A flat, decorative braid usually consisting of narrow loops, similar to crochet. Most commonly used as a trim or accent on women’s clothing.
Space-dyed
A dye process in which individual strands receive more than one color at irregular intervals.
Spaghetti straps
Very thin straps attached to a bodice.
Sublimation
A technique in fabric achieved through the infusion of an image onto the thread of a fabric so that it does not affect the surface of the garment. Unlike screen printing, where the ink lays on top of the garment, this process creates permanent images that will not crack or fade.
Suede
The softer side of leather, which has been brushed, leaving a velvetlike texture.
Sueded fleece
A very smooth and luxurious fabric that involves a unique finishing process to gently sand the fabric making it very soft.
Supima
An abbreviation for "superior pima." Made of 100% American pima cotton or extra-long staple cotton.
Surplice
A neckline formed when one piece of fabric overlaps the other to create a V-neck opening.
Sweep
The circumference of the bottom hem of a skirt, coat, or dress.
Sweetheart neckline
A curved neckline with a scalloped trim that is similar to the top half of a heart.
Swiss dot
Woven, flocked or embroidered dots on a sheer, lightweight fabric providing a textured pattern.
Synthetic
Used to describe manufactured materials made to imitate a natural material.
----- T -----
Taffeta
A medium-weight, plain-weave fabric with a slightly ribbed texture that is known for its luster.
Tape yarn
A pure cotton yarn used to create a narrow, woven fabric. It is a soft with an airy texture and ideal for warmer temperatures.
Trapunto
A type of quilting with two or more rows of stitches and a padded underside which give it a raised effect.
Tricot
A knit fabric formed by interlooping adjacent, parallel yarns. Known for being exceptionally soft and versatile.
Tricotine
A lightweight, breathable wool made of lightly twisted yarns in a double twill.
Tunic
A simple pullover blouse or jacket that falls at the hip. It was designed from two pieces of linen sewn up the sides and across the top with holes left for the head and arms.
Turtleneck
A standup collar that folds down over itself, usually found on sweaters.
Tweed
A middle- to heavyweight, woolen fabric with color-speckled yarns.
Twill
A woven fabric characterized by distinct, diagonal lines on the surface. It's very strong, yet relatively lightweight.
----- V -----
Variegated
A pattern having streaks or marks in different colors. Variegated ribs will have a slight difference in the colors between the ribs.
Velboa
A polyester construction that is a cross between fur and velvet. It is usually a medium-weight, short-pile textile. The result is a faux-fur fabric that is very luxurious and plush.
Velour
A medium-weight, tightly woven or knit fabric, usually made of cotton, with qualities similar to velvet. It’s soft and plush with a close, dense pile.
Velvet
A woven, medium-weight fabric made of silk, cotton or rayon. Its pile is cut and brushed for a rich, plush texture that stands straight up.
Velveteen
A woven, cotton fabric with a velvet-like pile.
Vinyl
A versatile plastic with physical properties that make it ideal for a wide variety of consumer products. Depending on its application, vinyl can be any thickness or color, it can be rigid or flexible, and it can also be weather-, heat- or impact-resistant.
Viscose
The most common type of rayon, it is manufactured from wood pulp and treated with chemicals. The result is a soft and absorbent fabric.
Voile
A fine, sheer fabric with a slightly crisp feel. Usually made from plain woven cotton, but can also be made from acetate, silk or rayon.
----- W -----
Waffle weave
A fabric pattern characterized by having recessed squares on the surface that resemble a waffle.
Welt
A run-resistant, double-edged strip or insert for embellishment or reinforcement.
Whipstitching
A type of stitch that passes diagonally over a fabric's edge.
Windowpane
A checkered pattern characterized by vertical and horizontal lines that intersect to form the appearance of a windowpane.
Wool
A thick, heavy natural fiber, usually spun from the fleece of lambs and sheep.
Worsted wool
A smooth, compact yarn from long wood fibers used especially for firm, napless fabrics.
----- Y -----
Yarn-dyed
A dyeing process where yarns are immersed in a coloring solution and then woven or knit to make fabric. The colors stay brighter longer.
Yoke
Seams across the top of pants, a skirt or a shirt that create an inverted triangle shape.
Yoryu
Made with synthetic materials such as polyester or rayon, this lightweight, durable fabric has a pleated crinkle effect.
Freitag, 2. Mai 2014
HOW TO LIST VINTAGE TOYS ON EBAY or anything else!
Sellers are not doing buyers favors by selling on ebay.
Buyers expect to get what they want and sellers expect to get paid and to stay in business. Without buyers and sellers, there'd be no ebay.
Photographs are the first part of your listing a buyer sees. Make this first impression count! Always respect your buyer! Sellers need buyers! Sounds obvious but you'd be surprised at how few know this and take advantage of it.
Always use as many pictures as possible with a neutral or bright background. Make sure there is enough light/flash so the buyer can accurately judge the toy from the pictures. Make the pictures as nice as possible, as if there is no word description in the listing. Let the pictures speak and describe the toy accurately.
Make sure the pictures are as big as possible within reason. A good picture size is between 1000 and 750 pixels wide/tall. It makes a seller look dishonest when their pictures are dark, grainy, out of focus and too small! That will result in lower sales amounts and fewer overall sales. Some sellers will upload a 1000 pixel image, taken from across a messy kitchen, replete with a sink full of dirty dishes in the background and off about 20 feet away is the toy, sitting on the table, smaller than one's pinky nail.
Make it happen for the buyer and the buyer will make it happen for you! Ebay allows for 12 full sized pictures for FREE! Take advantage of it!
Never place the toy on top of the box to save time taking one or two extra pictures!!! Always put the toy and box side by side or take separate pictures of each! We cannot emphasize how many times we've seen 50 or 60 yr old toy boxes ruined because of this! Don't do it! To collectors, the toy and the original box are equally important factors when collecting.
Never place the toy on the floor, driveway, asphalt, the back yard or other harsh surface or environment! This can mar the toy and ruin the experience for the buyer and potentially lead to a returned item, lower sales value and maybe poor feedback. You might also lose a customer in the process at the very least! Take care of the toys you are listing. After all, these toys are usually antiques and they just don't make them anymore! Buyers don't want them "just because". Buyers want what they want and if you have it, make it happen!
Try to stay out of your pictures! Let the pictures of the toy do all the talking! There are several websites that exist only to show sellers' dirty hands, wearing their underwear, etc., gathered solely from ebay listings. While this may seem funny to some, the seller's presence in a picture is a real turn-off. Avoid it!
Respect your customers who wish to buy your items by taking good care of the toys you are selling and showing accurate pictures! The better you show and treat your toy, the more others might want it and the more they might pay, meaning more/higher sales for the seller. The goal of ebay is to join buyers with sellers and for all parties to profit from the experience!
DESCRIBING YOUR TOY
In your description, pretend you did not take any pictures and describe as many details about the toy as possible. Sellers lose credibility when they lie or misrepresent their items, so tell the truth! If there's a crack, scratch or rust, say so!
Try to say as much as possible - about the toy! No one wants to read about your neighbor's dog's gout or how you hate politics! Keep it on topic - toys! Buyers also don't want to read about what a know-it-all you are and expert such and such, ranting on for paragraphs before mentioning the toy!
Also, for all you sellers who pride yourselves in "Estate Sale" finds - stop talking about it. No buyer wants to hear how you hit all the yard, garage, tag and basement sales in your neighborhood and found bargains for which you're now asking God's money for, all the while pretending you were just rubbing elbows with the Gettys and Rothschilds. It's a real turn-off for buyers so keep it to yourself!
In the picture above right you can see on the left side is the seller's image from the ebay listing, small and grainy and oh yeah, no signs of rust! Yes, that's the actual size and picture from the listing. To the right is the real-life image of the toy once it arrived. No where in the images or description for the listing on ebay did the seller mention the extensive rust, corrosion and holes in the toy! Did the toy get returned with ebay money back guarantee and a full refund issued? Yes. Did the seller get any repeat business from the buyer? No, no he didn't. That was a $300 sale gone bad. The seller is lucky he didn't get a negative feedback for such a deceptive listing!
Never say the toy is "untested" because you don't have batteries or the time to test it! Show respect for your buyers and admit the toy is not working if it isn't working! Take the time to get batteries and test the toy! No buyer believes the seller when they say they didn't have time to test the toy and especially when sellers say "I don't have batteries"! If you have time to sell it, there's time to test it! Again, a truthful seller gains credibility with buyers when going the extra mile. Likewise, not accurately describing the toy leads to lower sales (as I mentioned above, buyers don't believe it when the seller says "not tested") and will also result in fewer sales in the long run.
In the case of the robot toy above, the seller suggested the rust happened during shipping, which took 2 days and was perfectly dry upon arrival. The seller, who has several hundred listings also mentioned the toy was not tested. And how could it have been tested, since the battery box was completely missing! The seller neglected to mention that fact as well. Ironically several other listings of the same seller did mention that some toys were tested and working perfectly. In other listings the seller stuck by that old line "I have no batteries...untested". Hmmm... FAIL!
Disrespecting buyers never pays off and the buyer here mentioned this fiasco to dozens of collectors on a well known toy forum. The images went viral and the rest is obvious.
This box is for sitting on a store shelf, not shipping a $550 toy overseas!
PACKING AND SHIPPING THE TOY
Once you've made a sale, your work is just starting! Once again, respect your buyer! They expect to get what they purchased from the listing, not excuses.
Make sure the toy is well packed and shipped as quickly as possible! Shipping the next business day frees the seller up to list more items. It also makes the customer happy in knowing their toy has been shipped quickly.
In the picture left is a box someone in the UK thought was appropriate to ship a $550 toy overseas! Inside was a plastic shopping bag, tossed in for some reason. The seller charged $88 for shipping and spent $17.80 on postage with NO insurance! The toy was about 1.5 inches larger than the box, but that didn't stop the seller from ramming the toy inside. Out of sight out of mind? Needless to say, the toy was returned with ebay Money Back Guarantee for a full refund. The toy was ruined. Draw your own conclusions...
Packing is critical for vintage items and should be done with care to preserve both toy and original box if present. The original box IS NOT a shipping box! Pack the item(s) well, with plenty of protective material. Don't have bubble wrap (preferred)? Then go out and get some newspaper! Not one sheet, a whole newspaper if necessary! After all, they cost about a buck and work well as a packing material when used properly. Crumble up individual sheets of newspaper and fill any voids in the shipping box, including making a nice bed of crumbled newspapers in the bottom of the box before placing the toy inside. I can't tell you how many times someone has placed a toy in an empty box, then filled it with great packing material only to have the toy arrive damaged/destroyed as it was unprotected in the bottom of the box, getting tossed and slammed on its bottom side the entire shipping journey!
Be sure to use some newspaper (or packing tissue paper) to individually wrap the toy and box. The toy ideally should be packed separately from the original toy box. Both should be protectively wrapped to avoid damage while in transit inside your shipping box. If the toy box is hollow/empty, fill it gently with crumbled newspapers. Don't over do it and ruin the toy box! Just enough to keep the box from collapsing during transit.
The shipping box should be large enough to accommodate the toy and/or box/other toys but not too big as to be impractical. Leaving a space of about 2 to 4 inches from the inner walls of the shipping box and the contents is usually a good measure. Use all the newspaper you need to fill in all the gaps/voids in between the item/contents and the shipping carton. Ideally the box should be new or newish. USPS offers free boxes for Priority and Express Mail shipping and ships them to you for free! Go visit their website and order some - it's free!
Don't take some old box and tape it to death hoping it will make the journey - it won't! About 20% of the toys I buy have to be sent back to the seller due to poor packing and damage during shipping! That means lower sales and fewer customers as I and many other buyers will not return to a seller who has only offered a bad shopping experience. Respect the buyer and they will return!
Also, assume everything you sell will be handled by large, hungry, brain-dead gorillas with an attitude while in transit! Mark Fragile in at least 2 inch sized wording on EVERY side of the box. Use a RED marker if you have one. If you have to, write FRAGILE on pieces of paper and tape them to all sides of the box, legible and clear.
Finally, if the value of an item exceeds $50, the seller should insure it for the actual value! That whole nonsense many sellers employ of claiming "Seller not responsible for damage during shipping" is rubbish and disrespects the buyer! If you're a seller, you're 100% responsible for the toy to arrive EXACTLY as in the listing! Don't believe me? Go read ebay and PayPal seller policies. A buyer is not liable at all for a damaged item and can simply return it to the seller, using the seller's return policy or ebay's money back guarantee. See the $550 mistake the UK seller made above, OUCH! So do yourself a favor and insure it! Sellers ARE responsible for ALL damages incurred during shipping. Lying to buyers about it only disrespects them, which of course leads to lower and fewer sales.
Buyers expect to get what they want and sellers expect to get paid and to stay in business. Without buyers and sellers, there'd be no ebay.
Photographs are the first part of your listing a buyer sees. Make this first impression count! Always respect your buyer! Sellers need buyers! Sounds obvious but you'd be surprised at how few know this and take advantage of it.
Always use as many pictures as possible with a neutral or bright background. Make sure there is enough light/flash so the buyer can accurately judge the toy from the pictures. Make the pictures as nice as possible, as if there is no word description in the listing. Let the pictures speak and describe the toy accurately.
Make sure the pictures are as big as possible within reason. A good picture size is between 1000 and 750 pixels wide/tall. It makes a seller look dishonest when their pictures are dark, grainy, out of focus and too small! That will result in lower sales amounts and fewer overall sales. Some sellers will upload a 1000 pixel image, taken from across a messy kitchen, replete with a sink full of dirty dishes in the background and off about 20 feet away is the toy, sitting on the table, smaller than one's pinky nail.
Make it happen for the buyer and the buyer will make it happen for you! Ebay allows for 12 full sized pictures for FREE! Take advantage of it!
Never place the toy on top of the box to save time taking one or two extra pictures!!! Always put the toy and box side by side or take separate pictures of each! We cannot emphasize how many times we've seen 50 or 60 yr old toy boxes ruined because of this! Don't do it! To collectors, the toy and the original box are equally important factors when collecting.
Never place the toy on the floor, driveway, asphalt, the back yard or other harsh surface or environment! This can mar the toy and ruin the experience for the buyer and potentially lead to a returned item, lower sales value and maybe poor feedback. You might also lose a customer in the process at the very least! Take care of the toys you are listing. After all, these toys are usually antiques and they just don't make them anymore! Buyers don't want them "just because". Buyers want what they want and if you have it, make it happen!
Try to stay out of your pictures! Let the pictures of the toy do all the talking! There are several websites that exist only to show sellers' dirty hands, wearing their underwear, etc., gathered solely from ebay listings. While this may seem funny to some, the seller's presence in a picture is a real turn-off. Avoid it!
Respect your customers who wish to buy your items by taking good care of the toys you are selling and showing accurate pictures! The better you show and treat your toy, the more others might want it and the more they might pay, meaning more/higher sales for the seller. The goal of ebay is to join buyers with sellers and for all parties to profit from the experience!
DESCRIBING YOUR TOY
In your description, pretend you did not take any pictures and describe as many details about the toy as possible. Sellers lose credibility when they lie or misrepresent their items, so tell the truth! If there's a crack, scratch or rust, say so!
Try to say as much as possible - about the toy! No one wants to read about your neighbor's dog's gout or how you hate politics! Keep it on topic - toys! Buyers also don't want to read about what a know-it-all you are and expert such and such, ranting on for paragraphs before mentioning the toy!
Also, for all you sellers who pride yourselves in "Estate Sale" finds - stop talking about it. No buyer wants to hear how you hit all the yard, garage, tag and basement sales in your neighborhood and found bargains for which you're now asking God's money for, all the while pretending you were just rubbing elbows with the Gettys and Rothschilds. It's a real turn-off for buyers so keep it to yourself!
In the picture above right you can see on the left side is the seller's image from the ebay listing, small and grainy and oh yeah, no signs of rust! Yes, that's the actual size and picture from the listing. To the right is the real-life image of the toy once it arrived. No where in the images or description for the listing on ebay did the seller mention the extensive rust, corrosion and holes in the toy! Did the toy get returned with ebay money back guarantee and a full refund issued? Yes. Did the seller get any repeat business from the buyer? No, no he didn't. That was a $300 sale gone bad. The seller is lucky he didn't get a negative feedback for such a deceptive listing!
Never say the toy is "untested" because you don't have batteries or the time to test it! Show respect for your buyers and admit the toy is not working if it isn't working! Take the time to get batteries and test the toy! No buyer believes the seller when they say they didn't have time to test the toy and especially when sellers say "I don't have batteries"! If you have time to sell it, there's time to test it! Again, a truthful seller gains credibility with buyers when going the extra mile. Likewise, not accurately describing the toy leads to lower sales (as I mentioned above, buyers don't believe it when the seller says "not tested") and will also result in fewer sales in the long run.
In the case of the robot toy above, the seller suggested the rust happened during shipping, which took 2 days and was perfectly dry upon arrival. The seller, who has several hundred listings also mentioned the toy was not tested. And how could it have been tested, since the battery box was completely missing! The seller neglected to mention that fact as well. Ironically several other listings of the same seller did mention that some toys were tested and working perfectly. In other listings the seller stuck by that old line "I have no batteries...untested". Hmmm... FAIL!
Disrespecting buyers never pays off and the buyer here mentioned this fiasco to dozens of collectors on a well known toy forum. The images went viral and the rest is obvious.
This box is for sitting on a store shelf, not shipping a $550 toy overseas!
PACKING AND SHIPPING THE TOY
Once you've made a sale, your work is just starting! Once again, respect your buyer! They expect to get what they purchased from the listing, not excuses.
Make sure the toy is well packed and shipped as quickly as possible! Shipping the next business day frees the seller up to list more items. It also makes the customer happy in knowing their toy has been shipped quickly.
In the picture left is a box someone in the UK thought was appropriate to ship a $550 toy overseas! Inside was a plastic shopping bag, tossed in for some reason. The seller charged $88 for shipping and spent $17.80 on postage with NO insurance! The toy was about 1.5 inches larger than the box, but that didn't stop the seller from ramming the toy inside. Out of sight out of mind? Needless to say, the toy was returned with ebay Money Back Guarantee for a full refund. The toy was ruined. Draw your own conclusions...
Packing is critical for vintage items and should be done with care to preserve both toy and original box if present. The original box IS NOT a shipping box! Pack the item(s) well, with plenty of protective material. Don't have bubble wrap (preferred)? Then go out and get some newspaper! Not one sheet, a whole newspaper if necessary! After all, they cost about a buck and work well as a packing material when used properly. Crumble up individual sheets of newspaper and fill any voids in the shipping box, including making a nice bed of crumbled newspapers in the bottom of the box before placing the toy inside. I can't tell you how many times someone has placed a toy in an empty box, then filled it with great packing material only to have the toy arrive damaged/destroyed as it was unprotected in the bottom of the box, getting tossed and slammed on its bottom side the entire shipping journey!
Be sure to use some newspaper (or packing tissue paper) to individually wrap the toy and box. The toy ideally should be packed separately from the original toy box. Both should be protectively wrapped to avoid damage while in transit inside your shipping box. If the toy box is hollow/empty, fill it gently with crumbled newspapers. Don't over do it and ruin the toy box! Just enough to keep the box from collapsing during transit.
The shipping box should be large enough to accommodate the toy and/or box/other toys but not too big as to be impractical. Leaving a space of about 2 to 4 inches from the inner walls of the shipping box and the contents is usually a good measure. Use all the newspaper you need to fill in all the gaps/voids in between the item/contents and the shipping carton. Ideally the box should be new or newish. USPS offers free boxes for Priority and Express Mail shipping and ships them to you for free! Go visit their website and order some - it's free!
Don't take some old box and tape it to death hoping it will make the journey - it won't! About 20% of the toys I buy have to be sent back to the seller due to poor packing and damage during shipping! That means lower sales and fewer customers as I and many other buyers will not return to a seller who has only offered a bad shopping experience. Respect the buyer and they will return!
Also, assume everything you sell will be handled by large, hungry, brain-dead gorillas with an attitude while in transit! Mark Fragile in at least 2 inch sized wording on EVERY side of the box. Use a RED marker if you have one. If you have to, write FRAGILE on pieces of paper and tape them to all sides of the box, legible and clear.
Finally, if the value of an item exceeds $50, the seller should insure it for the actual value! That whole nonsense many sellers employ of claiming "Seller not responsible for damage during shipping" is rubbish and disrespects the buyer! If you're a seller, you're 100% responsible for the toy to arrive EXACTLY as in the listing! Don't believe me? Go read ebay and PayPal seller policies. A buyer is not liable at all for a damaged item and can simply return it to the seller, using the seller's return policy or ebay's money back guarantee. See the $550 mistake the UK seller made above, OUCH! So do yourself a favor and insure it! Sellers ARE responsible for ALL damages incurred during shipping. Lying to buyers about it only disrespects them, which of course leads to lower and fewer sales.
May I Say His Stinking Thinking Has Turned Ebay Into What Is Today Feebay...
Hoarding Billions Out of the Country...Now Paying Billions To Bring It Back...
Shares Are Down...New Sellers Policy Is Nothing But a Criminal Act...
Giving The Power To Bad Buyers... And Unsuspecting Buyers Just Asking a Question...
His Mantra Is "If You Can't Dazzle With Brilliance" "Baffle Them With BS"...
I've Been On a Thinking Quest As Well John And I'm On To You...That's a bizarre article. Isn't he supposed to be working rather than writing puff pieces to stroke his ego. The only reason he wrote it was to check daily the comments and monitor how many people kissed his pitoot.
The comments are pathetic, watching people pet his leg. Half are hoping to get a job at eBay, the other half peddling their services.
By far the most LOL moment I had was seeing where it said:
(Photo credit: John Donahoe)
I wonder if JD closed the door, mounted a Canon Powershot on a tripod, then spent an entire morning getting the photo just right. Ah, the time one can waste when he's the boss. I hope he used his "thinking day" for this silliness.
P.S. He did not say anything that inspiring. That's how you can tell all those people were stroking him. Anyone with an ounce of business sense or street smarts would have graded this article a "C" (at most).
P.P.S. I pity his staff. You just know he passed this around and asked "Now give me your honest opinion." The poor folks had to fake it, fake it real good. "Oh John, this is one of the most inspiring things I have ever read. I taped it to my fridge. And I dictated it as an MP3 file. I play it on the commute to work, every day, to and from."
Shares Are Down...New Sellers Policy Is Nothing But a Criminal Act...
Giving The Power To Bad Buyers... And Unsuspecting Buyers Just Asking a Question...
His Mantra Is "If You Can't Dazzle With Brilliance" "Baffle Them With BS"...
I've Been On a Thinking Quest As Well John And I'm On To You...That's a bizarre article. Isn't he supposed to be working rather than writing puff pieces to stroke his ego. The only reason he wrote it was to check daily the comments and monitor how many people kissed his pitoot.
The comments are pathetic, watching people pet his leg. Half are hoping to get a job at eBay, the other half peddling their services.
By far the most LOL moment I had was seeing where it said:
(Photo credit: John Donahoe)
I wonder if JD closed the door, mounted a Canon Powershot on a tripod, then spent an entire morning getting the photo just right. Ah, the time one can waste when he's the boss. I hope he used his "thinking day" for this silliness.
P.S. He did not say anything that inspiring. That's how you can tell all those people were stroking him. Anyone with an ounce of business sense or street smarts would have graded this article a "C" (at most).
P.P.S. I pity his staff. You just know he passed this around and asked "Now give me your honest opinion." The poor folks had to fake it, fake it real good. "Oh John, this is one of the most inspiring things I have ever read. I taped it to my fridge. And I dictated it as an MP3 file. I play it on the commute to work, every day, to and from."
Montag, 28. April 2014
I listed an item as a buy it now on Friday. A couple hours later I received and offer
Before I could respond to it someone bought it. I just received an email from that person saying they can not pay until May 31st. The person who put the offer in also emailed me saying if the buyer doesn't pay that they would want to pay in full asap. Should I just request to cancel this transaction? Open a case? Let them do this? What would you do? If I can get things to move asap I want to I do not want to sit on this.
I would immediately put BOTH ids on your blocked bidder list and after 2 days file Unpaid Item Dispute on buyer and close it the first chance you get. I would also report the buyer for Unreasonable demands to ebay.
The first one is trying to negotiate and most likely would continue to do so after they get the item. Also the fact that they offer to buy it just in case the other buyer doesn't pay for it, kind of like they know the buyer might not pay.
I would normally let a buyer delay payment if they let me know, but over a month is just ridiculous. It's more like they want the item off ebay for a time period. Most likely so they can sell theirs.
I would immediately put BOTH ids on your blocked bidder list and after 2 days file Unpaid Item Dispute on buyer and close it the first chance you get. I would also report the buyer for Unreasonable demands to ebay.
The first one is trying to negotiate and most likely would continue to do so after they get the item. Also the fact that they offer to buy it just in case the other buyer doesn't pay for it, kind of like they know the buyer might not pay.
I would normally let a buyer delay payment if they let me know, but over a month is just ridiculous. It's more like they want the item off ebay for a time period. Most likely so they can sell theirs.
Sonntag, 27. April 2014
Whats going on with eBay I have had ZERO SALES in almost 2 weeks
Or, try standing on your head whistling Dixie with a one-eyed toad under a full moon. God knows, it must be your fault suddenly. Just ask eBay.
Their million+ dollar search engine is new-and-improved, they haven't announced ANY technical glitches, they've gone to a lot of effort to attract new buyers, and get rid of the bad sellers, they are global-friendly, and you can access all this easily from a teeny weeny mobile device anywhere, any time. Plus, they consistently put out fresh new webinars and such, just to help sellers like you. All WONDERFUL successes!
Of course, you're only about the gazillionth person to complain about this sort of occurrence, so maybe you're ALL wrong. I wonder what the chances are?
I definitely suggest more auctions as well. Try some 5 day or even 3 day. People will get on there look at the stuff that is ending soon and be kinda pressured by the ending time to bid. That's how I am anyway, I see it in myself. If something is a buy it now, it gives me time to think about it. If it is ending soon, it's kinda like "do or die". :smileyhappy: Ebay is doing free relisting up to 3 times I think, so you got that going for you too. Although I will say that ebay seems to just reposition my items in search rank all the time. Something they will be at the top of the first page, and a couple days later they will be on a different page alltogether.
Out of curiosity just exactly how long is an eek? Is it somewhere between a week & eons?...=eeks LOL
Sorry couldn't resist that typo. Anyhoo I concur with dingys assessment on the situation here. We all know ebay rocks & nothing they could ever do could sway, distract or flat out hide the search for millions of perpective buyers, the holds on payments, the free refunds they hand out in the $$$$$$$$$millions w/o just cause. I could expound, but why ruin the rest of your eekend. Try to hang in the OP & do what you can to survive this dry spell.
Also good time to start spreading your wings for greener pastures just in case this one dries up completely in near future. :smileywink:
Their million+ dollar search engine is new-and-improved, they haven't announced ANY technical glitches, they've gone to a lot of effort to attract new buyers, and get rid of the bad sellers, they are global-friendly, and you can access all this easily from a teeny weeny mobile device anywhere, any time. Plus, they consistently put out fresh new webinars and such, just to help sellers like you. All WONDERFUL successes!
Of course, you're only about the gazillionth person to complain about this sort of occurrence, so maybe you're ALL wrong. I wonder what the chances are?
I definitely suggest more auctions as well. Try some 5 day or even 3 day. People will get on there look at the stuff that is ending soon and be kinda pressured by the ending time to bid. That's how I am anyway, I see it in myself. If something is a buy it now, it gives me time to think about it. If it is ending soon, it's kinda like "do or die". :smileyhappy: Ebay is doing free relisting up to 3 times I think, so you got that going for you too. Although I will say that ebay seems to just reposition my items in search rank all the time. Something they will be at the top of the first page, and a couple days later they will be on a different page alltogether.
Out of curiosity just exactly how long is an eek? Is it somewhere between a week & eons?...=eeks LOL
Sorry couldn't resist that typo. Anyhoo I concur with dingys assessment on the situation here. We all know ebay rocks & nothing they could ever do could sway, distract or flat out hide the search for millions of perpective buyers, the holds on payments, the free refunds they hand out in the $$$$$$$$$millions w/o just cause. I could expound, but why ruin the rest of your eekend. Try to hang in the OP & do what you can to survive this dry spell.
Also good time to start spreading your wings for greener pastures just in case this one dries up completely in near future. :smileywink:
Samstag, 26. April 2014
I've been pretty lucky with selling on Ebay, knock on wood
So far I've had one big issue with a buyer. However reading most posts on these forums and others, it's pretty obvious that sellers are becoming disgusted more and more with Ebays total lack of seller protection. I've been thinking about ways that sellers can again become more at ease with selling especially high value items. I have an idea and I don't know if it's something feasible or how it would be implemented.
Let's say it's an office equipped with both USPS and UPS shipping capabilities. In that office would be a person or several depending on demand who is a licensed notary. Ideally this person is experienced with how Ebay procedures work and also has a basic knowledge of various high end brands.
Let's also say that I just sold a diamond ring on Ebay. Before selling the ring I brought it to a certified gemologist who evaluated the ring and gave me in writing the certification that it is in fact what I'm claiming it to be. So now I bring this ring along with all the documentation to this office. The person examines the ring based on my description on Ebay, evaluates the certification, contacts the gemologist if deemed necessary and then packs and ships it according to Ebay rules.
On the other end, let's say the buyer received the ring and wasn't satisfied. The buyer wants to return the ring. They would also go to the same kind of office for them to pack and ship the ring. The ring would be shipped not to the seller but to the office where the seller shipped from so that the third party would be there to witness what the seller received back.
Now obviously there's more work involved for the seller. But if it's a high value item, I'd think most sellers wouldn't mind doing this to ensure that everything goes smoothly.The problem with the idea is that it puts more responsibility in eBay's hands and responsibility is the last thing they want more of.
Even if the idea were accepted, I think eBay would make a mess of it. Why do I think that? Look at what is happening with their consignment valet program. If they can't successfully sell on their own site, how are they ever going to manage an escrow-authentication program, which is considerably more complicated.
Let's say it's an office equipped with both USPS and UPS shipping capabilities. In that office would be a person or several depending on demand who is a licensed notary. Ideally this person is experienced with how Ebay procedures work and also has a basic knowledge of various high end brands.
Let's also say that I just sold a diamond ring on Ebay. Before selling the ring I brought it to a certified gemologist who evaluated the ring and gave me in writing the certification that it is in fact what I'm claiming it to be. So now I bring this ring along with all the documentation to this office. The person examines the ring based on my description on Ebay, evaluates the certification, contacts the gemologist if deemed necessary and then packs and ships it according to Ebay rules.
On the other end, let's say the buyer received the ring and wasn't satisfied. The buyer wants to return the ring. They would also go to the same kind of office for them to pack and ship the ring. The ring would be shipped not to the seller but to the office where the seller shipped from so that the third party would be there to witness what the seller received back.
Now obviously there's more work involved for the seller. But if it's a high value item, I'd think most sellers wouldn't mind doing this to ensure that everything goes smoothly.The problem with the idea is that it puts more responsibility in eBay's hands and responsibility is the last thing they want more of.
Even if the idea were accepted, I think eBay would make a mess of it. Why do I think that? Look at what is happening with their consignment valet program. If they can't successfully sell on their own site, how are they ever going to manage an escrow-authentication program, which is considerably more complicated.
Donnerstag, 24. April 2014
I received negative feedback from an international buyer due to slow international shipping
It was left without any contact or ngative by the buyer. According to eBay guidelines, negative feedback can't be left for customs delays as they are outside my control. In addition, the buyer has left feedback for 9 sellers and 4 are negative. This is also cause for feedback removal.
I've called twice to discuss this and have been treated very disrespectfully by both employees. Now my status is power seller with 4000 feedbacks, not a new seller. When I ask questions, these employees simply read a prepared script. When I point out the eBay guidelines, they simply either do not know these guidelines or just don't want to be bothered with changing feedback. They have talked down to me, although in a polite, pleasant manner, as if I should just accept what they say. Each time I've asked to speak to a supervisor. The first was denied and the second, after a lengthy hold, was told the supervisor would call me back within 24 hours.
I don't think it is the rep's fault. They are frustrated and bored and sick of listening to Sellers problems, - which most times they can't do anything about. The rep's have to know the system is flawed, big time, and it is not in their power to change things. I get angry sometimes, but really, should not take it out on the Reps. Although, maybe the Seller that screams the loudest gets something changed. Most times I don't even bother calling Cust Service. And with all the defects carp I sure won't be calling them. I think with the new program if they don't get ya for one thing around here they will for another.
I've already given the buyer a complete refund and am out the item and shipping. Now I have two dings on the new seller standards for item not received and negative feedback. Has anyone else had these issues? I'm about ready to fire off a certified letter to the CEO of eBay. This is no way to treat the very people that create the income for their business.
I have dealt with CS a few times. They arent terribly interested in your problems. One particularly snotty CS employee had audible sighs, complete with a condescending attitude. I asked to speak to her supervisor and she put me on hold for 40 minutes because everyone apparently is always in a meeting.
I cant stand dealing with EBay CS...even the term customer service is contradictory.
If there ever was an oxymoron, eBay customer service is it.I can deal with CS telling me I'm screwed. I dont need their attitude. I manage a catering company and if I heard staff talking to a customer like I've been talked to/at, they'd be gone that second
I've called twice to discuss this and have been treated very disrespectfully by both employees. Now my status is power seller with 4000 feedbacks, not a new seller. When I ask questions, these employees simply read a prepared script. When I point out the eBay guidelines, they simply either do not know these guidelines or just don't want to be bothered with changing feedback. They have talked down to me, although in a polite, pleasant manner, as if I should just accept what they say. Each time I've asked to speak to a supervisor. The first was denied and the second, after a lengthy hold, was told the supervisor would call me back within 24 hours.
I don't think it is the rep's fault. They are frustrated and bored and sick of listening to Sellers problems, - which most times they can't do anything about. The rep's have to know the system is flawed, big time, and it is not in their power to change things. I get angry sometimes, but really, should not take it out on the Reps. Although, maybe the Seller that screams the loudest gets something changed. Most times I don't even bother calling Cust Service. And with all the defects carp I sure won't be calling them. I think with the new program if they don't get ya for one thing around here they will for another.
I've already given the buyer a complete refund and am out the item and shipping. Now I have two dings on the new seller standards for item not received and negative feedback. Has anyone else had these issues? I'm about ready to fire off a certified letter to the CEO of eBay. This is no way to treat the very people that create the income for their business.
I have dealt with CS a few times. They arent terribly interested in your problems. One particularly snotty CS employee had audible sighs, complete with a condescending attitude. I asked to speak to her supervisor and she put me on hold for 40 minutes because everyone apparently is always in a meeting.
I cant stand dealing with EBay CS...even the term customer service is contradictory.
If there ever was an oxymoron, eBay customer service is it.I can deal with CS telling me I'm screwed. I dont need their attitude. I manage a catering company and if I heard staff talking to a customer like I've been talked to/at, they'd be gone that second
No “Add to Cart” button on Ebay UK?
So today I got a message from a prospective UK buyer asking where the “Add to Basket” button is for ordering multiple items. I get pretty consistent orders from UK/Europe and it never occurred to me that my listings might look different on their respective eBay sites.
So I logged into eBay UK and see that indeed there is no “Add to Basket” button (Basket is UK term for Cart, I think) on all my listings. In fact, listings from my other ebay stores did not have it as well.
The thing is I have been tweaking all my listings (of all 3 stores) past couple of days, so I’m not sure if this is due to my messing up something or it has been this way all along.
So which is the case here?
If the link in the previous post doesn't work, just ask them to log into eBay.com to use the cart here.
So I logged into eBay UK and see that indeed there is no “Add to Basket” button (Basket is UK term for Cart, I think) on all my listings. In fact, listings from my other ebay stores did not have it as well.
The thing is I have been tweaking all my listings (of all 3 stores) past couple of days, so I’m not sure if this is due to my messing up something or it has been this way all along.
So which is the case here?
If the link in the previous post doesn't work, just ask them to log into eBay.com to use the cart here.
Montag, 21. April 2014
All of my buyers have been fake accounts or sca
All of my buyers have been fake accounts or scams, using fake PayPal emails, wanting it shipped before any money was exchanged, others not even talking accounts made the same day they buy the item just to raise my fees I guess.
Now I have $300 dollars in fees with no sales and I have no idea what to do! I am still somewhat new to Ebay and I relisted a few items right away as I found out a few that talked where scamming me, explaining why it's so much money.
I'v made a report on all of them but since I already relisted them is it to late to wave the fees?
I thought that was the purpose of reporting them but reading the rules closer it seems Ebay wants you to wait till the person buying your item or scamming you agrees to canceling or X amount of days before making a claim then relisting, which makes me wonder.. Why doesn't everyone make fake accounts to buy out their competitors so they have the lowest price since that's such a cheap rule. Relisting shouldn't cost you if they don't pay.
Every day I re-read the rules trying to figure it out and waiting to see if my fees drop, any help from anyone with experience with this would be appreciated greatly!
eBay is a minefield. All too frequently new sellers in high-risk, scam-magnet categories (phones, laptops, consoles, etc) come in here asking what to do after they've shipped to a scammer. You're amazingly lucky you've not actually lost any of your items.
Even after one sells and ships an item, one can still get scammed...
Never, never, rely on email notifications for anything important. If you clicked-through any links in of the fake PayPal emails you mention receiving, change your eBay and PayPal passwords immediately. Always log into PayPal (typing in the web address manually or from bookmark) to view payments.
Only ship to the address shown in PayPal - it should say "Seller Protection - Eligible". Do not ship it anywhere else. If you print the shipping label through eBay Shipping, it will automatically import the mailing address. It's a cinch. No shipping labels needed (you should use labels, but don't have to; Avery 5126 or Uline 5044 work well) - you can print onto regular paper, cut to size, and tape on box (don't tape over barcode).
Mail items (double-box game consoles and other fragile items for protection) USPS with on-line viewable tracking. Based on the size and weight of your items, use Priority Mail most of the time - it automatically includes the type of tracking eBay / PayPal requires, and will arrive in a reasonable time-frame. Do not ship international (I see you don't, which is good).
As for listing locally, such as on C-List - that can be simplier and more profitable, but comes with risk of physical harm. It's a tradeoff.
Now I have $300 dollars in fees with no sales and I have no idea what to do! I am still somewhat new to Ebay and I relisted a few items right away as I found out a few that talked where scamming me, explaining why it's so much money.
I'v made a report on all of them but since I already relisted them is it to late to wave the fees?
I thought that was the purpose of reporting them but reading the rules closer it seems Ebay wants you to wait till the person buying your item or scamming you agrees to canceling or X amount of days before making a claim then relisting, which makes me wonder.. Why doesn't everyone make fake accounts to buy out their competitors so they have the lowest price since that's such a cheap rule. Relisting shouldn't cost you if they don't pay.
Every day I re-read the rules trying to figure it out and waiting to see if my fees drop, any help from anyone with experience with this would be appreciated greatly!
eBay is a minefield. All too frequently new sellers in high-risk, scam-magnet categories (phones, laptops, consoles, etc) come in here asking what to do after they've shipped to a scammer. You're amazingly lucky you've not actually lost any of your items.
Even after one sells and ships an item, one can still get scammed...
Never, never, rely on email notifications for anything important. If you clicked-through any links in of the fake PayPal emails you mention receiving, change your eBay and PayPal passwords immediately. Always log into PayPal (typing in the web address manually or from bookmark) to view payments.
Only ship to the address shown in PayPal - it should say "Seller Protection - Eligible". Do not ship it anywhere else. If you print the shipping label through eBay Shipping, it will automatically import the mailing address. It's a cinch. No shipping labels needed (you should use labels, but don't have to; Avery 5126 or Uline 5044 work well) - you can print onto regular paper, cut to size, and tape on box (don't tape over barcode).
Mail items (double-box game consoles and other fragile items for protection) USPS with on-line viewable tracking. Based on the size and weight of your items, use Priority Mail most of the time - it automatically includes the type of tracking eBay / PayPal requires, and will arrive in a reasonable time-frame. Do not ship international (I see you don't, which is good).
As for listing locally, such as on C-List - that can be simplier and more profitable, but comes with risk of physical harm. It's a tradeoff.
Sonntag, 20. April 2014
You purchased an item, and what actually arrived differed from the description
you returned the item, and were refunded.
Ebay, if the Seller does nothing after they get the item back, automatically refunds the money that is on hold in the Seller's Paypal account 3 days after the tracking shows the seller got the item back.
So, Ebay's Money Back Guarantee worked for you, and they didn't need any photos or emails that you accumulated.
Your seller is out the cost of the shipping to you and their final value fees, they also have to contend with whatever feedback and star ratings that you leave...
and you want eBay to do more to punish the seller...
That's not going to happen unless the seller shows a pattern of doing this.
As for the slow payers...
You can open a non-paying bidder complaint 48 hours and one second after the listing is over.
It sounds like the sellers immediate email was sort of asking you if they could cancel the transaction for the mistake they had made (and yes, it does sound lame) and you either didn't get the hint or decided to go through with the transaction anyway.
Since you are complaining about slow paying buyers, you are a seller yourself and from your post it appears that you have no idea the punishments that ebay inflicts on sellers now and in the immediate future. You should look into it.
We can't see the strikes or defects that are posted against us until the seller gets booted. And since ebay had to refund and the seller didn't, they earned the rare ebay double whammy and are not long for the selling world.
Ebay, if the Seller does nothing after they get the item back, automatically refunds the money that is on hold in the Seller's Paypal account 3 days after the tracking shows the seller got the item back.
So, Ebay's Money Back Guarantee worked for you, and they didn't need any photos or emails that you accumulated.
Your seller is out the cost of the shipping to you and their final value fees, they also have to contend with whatever feedback and star ratings that you leave...
and you want eBay to do more to punish the seller...
That's not going to happen unless the seller shows a pattern of doing this.
As for the slow payers...
You can open a non-paying bidder complaint 48 hours and one second after the listing is over.
It sounds like the sellers immediate email was sort of asking you if they could cancel the transaction for the mistake they had made (and yes, it does sound lame) and you either didn't get the hint or decided to go through with the transaction anyway.
Since you are complaining about slow paying buyers, you are a seller yourself and from your post it appears that you have no idea the punishments that ebay inflicts on sellers now and in the immediate future. You should look into it.
We can't see the strikes or defects that are posted against us until the seller gets booted. And since ebay had to refund and the seller didn't, they earned the rare ebay double whammy and are not long for the selling world.
I have 4 defects for "item not received" cases being opened.
3 out of 4 of these cases were people claiming they didnt receive the item when USPS clearly shows it as being delivered. They are usually resolved when the buyer looks in front of their door or way back in their mailbox and suddenly finds it. (funny how that works when you explain that the tracking shows delivered..... sorry! not getting anything for free today)
Why should these cases be counted as defects??
What an absolute rubbish seller update. How does this improve a buyer's experience whatsoever?
Yeah, ebay may get more fees out of people now as they rob everyone of their TRS, but guess what ebay? You're going to pay for that as I move more of my business over to Amazon and other venues where I don't have to follow these absolute ludicrous seller policy updates.
I have 3 defects for INR cases and all 3 cases were closed in my favor because tracking showed items delivered. This is becoming a joke to sell her. I suspect any case that results in a "bad buyer experience" will count against the seller even cases that the seller initiates like UPI cases. Right or wrong, being forced to pay or receive a strike instead would be considered a bad experience by most buyers I would imagine.
Why should these cases be counted as defects??
What an absolute rubbish seller update. How does this improve a buyer's experience whatsoever?
Yeah, ebay may get more fees out of people now as they rob everyone of their TRS, but guess what ebay? You're going to pay for that as I move more of my business over to Amazon and other venues where I don't have to follow these absolute ludicrous seller policy updates.
I have 3 defects for INR cases and all 3 cases were closed in my favor because tracking showed items delivered. This is becoming a joke to sell her. I suspect any case that results in a "bad buyer experience" will count against the seller even cases that the seller initiates like UPI cases. Right or wrong, being forced to pay or receive a strike instead would be considered a bad experience by most buyers I would imagine.
So I saw this today when I clicked onto a BIN OBO listing
Obviously I didn't make an offer of $18 on an item listed at $8.45. I had offered $6 and to buy in quantity, but I had that in the notes and he sent me a message to work on the specifics of how many I need and to get me a price for that quantity, but in the BO, I had only put down $6 and quantity of 1...
BIN OBO was a good concept but eBay has tweaked it so much that I'm not surprised buyers have so much trouble using it!!! Such as the multiple Best Offers fiasco that happened when they changed back to single binding offer. I don't think I've done so many cancellations in the entire rest of my time on eBay than I did that month!
About two years ago I made an offer on a multiple-quantity listing.
eBay gave me a popup saying I could offer or I could choose to just buy it now. I thought about it for a moment and decided just to buy it.
Then eBay committed me to two of them. The auto-accept had accepted the offer that I didn't explicitly make (since I had chosen the other option). I had chosen Buy it Now from the two options THINKING it would cancel the offer (since I hadn't confirmed it). The eBay wording made it sound like I was choosing to make an offer OR buy it. It didn't make it clear that now I was making an offer AND buying it (and thus 2, since it was multiple-quantity and there were 10 left).
I felt like I had been deliberately misled into buying two.
BIN OBO was a good concept but eBay has tweaked it so much that I'm not surprised buyers have so much trouble using it!!! Such as the multiple Best Offers fiasco that happened when they changed back to single binding offer. I don't think I've done so many cancellations in the entire rest of my time on eBay than I did that month!
About two years ago I made an offer on a multiple-quantity listing.
eBay gave me a popup saying I could offer or I could choose to just buy it now. I thought about it for a moment and decided just to buy it.
Then eBay committed me to two of them. The auto-accept had accepted the offer that I didn't explicitly make (since I had chosen the other option). I had chosen Buy it Now from the two options THINKING it would cancel the offer (since I hadn't confirmed it). The eBay wording made it sound like I was choosing to make an offer OR buy it. It didn't make it clear that now I was making an offer AND buying it (and thus 2, since it was multiple-quantity and there were 10 left).
I felt like I had been deliberately misled into buying two.
No phones to sell for more than $420? eBay's free listng activation offer
s there now a maximum eBay allows phone auctions to progress to and no further? (Offer says "Get up to $420 for yoru phone") And are all normal 50 free per month listings gone? Or are phones excluded form any free listings outside of email from eBay?
What if someone bids $450, do they get it for $420 only?
Down at the bottom of the message it says that the $420 is the average selling price of phones and just an estimate of what you could get. So you will get whatever if goes for.
I still have my 50 free listings but they are for BINs, this one is for auctions w/ or w/o BIN, and for 25000 of them.
Promotion
*Free insertion fee and 10 day listing listing upgrade fee for up to 25,000 listings in the auction-style or auction-style with Buy It Now format. 5-, 7-, and 10-day listing durations are included. Additional optional feature fees apply. Listings in two or more categories will be charged standard rates for each category after the first.
†The $420 eBay price is the average price (excluding shipping and handling charges, sales tax, and eBay fees) rounded down to the nearest $5 point, for an iPhone 5, 64GB, black, unlocked phone sold in used condition on eBay.com by non-professional sellers on February 27, 2014. All other eBay prices are the average price (excluding shipping and handling charges, sales tax, and eBay fees) rounded down to the nearest $5 point, for the identified item sold in used condition on eBay.com by non-professional sellers on February 27, 2014. No guarantee is made that a particular item will sell at a particular price. No affiliation with, sponsorship or endorsement by any referenced brand or brand owner is implied.
What if someone bids $450, do they get it for $420 only?
Down at the bottom of the message it says that the $420 is the average selling price of phones and just an estimate of what you could get. So you will get whatever if goes for.
I still have my 50 free listings but they are for BINs, this one is for auctions w/ or w/o BIN, and for 25000 of them.
Promotion
*Free insertion fee and 10 day listing listing upgrade fee for up to 25,000 listings in the auction-style or auction-style with Buy It Now format. 5-, 7-, and 10-day listing durations are included. Additional optional feature fees apply. Listings in two or more categories will be charged standard rates for each category after the first.
†The $420 eBay price is the average price (excluding shipping and handling charges, sales tax, and eBay fees) rounded down to the nearest $5 point, for an iPhone 5, 64GB, black, unlocked phone sold in used condition on eBay.com by non-professional sellers on February 27, 2014. All other eBay prices are the average price (excluding shipping and handling charges, sales tax, and eBay fees) rounded down to the nearest $5 point, for the identified item sold in used condition on eBay.com by non-professional sellers on February 27, 2014. No guarantee is made that a particular item will sell at a particular price. No affiliation with, sponsorship or endorsement by any referenced brand or brand owner is implied.
CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME WRAP MY HEAD AROUND THIS
I keep reading and reading the eBay announcements and discussion boards, but perhaps I have read too much! There is so much conflicting information!
Can someone please explain this to me? I am sorry to sound so dumb!
I am a Top Rated Seller and I have approx. 1200 transactions during a 3 month evaluation period.
eBay's information says:
Starting with the August 20 evaluation, to meet eBay's minimum standard, sellers can have up to a maximum 5% of transactions with one or more transaction defects over the most recent evaluation period. A maximum 2% will allow a seller to qualify as an eBay Top Rated Seller. Only transactions with US buyers count.
The defect rate won't affect your status until you have transactions with defects with at least 8 different buyers (at least 5 different buyers to impact Top Rated status) within your evaluation period.
So, as a TRS on a 3 month evaluation, can I have 5 defects or 24 defects (2%) before I lose TRS status?
24 defects but they have to be from at least 5 different buyers is how I am taking that information. So if you are a TRS and get a defect on 10 transactions each from two different buyers, and another 5 defecs on 5 more transactions from another buyer you should be ok even though you have 25, because they are
from only 3 buyers. Which I doubt that is ever going to happen so I would just go with 24 defects.
Can someone please explain this to me? I am sorry to sound so dumb!
I am a Top Rated Seller and I have approx. 1200 transactions during a 3 month evaluation period.
eBay's information says:
Starting with the August 20 evaluation, to meet eBay's minimum standard, sellers can have up to a maximum 5% of transactions with one or more transaction defects over the most recent evaluation period. A maximum 2% will allow a seller to qualify as an eBay Top Rated Seller. Only transactions with US buyers count.
The defect rate won't affect your status until you have transactions with defects with at least 8 different buyers (at least 5 different buyers to impact Top Rated status) within your evaluation period.
So, as a TRS on a 3 month evaluation, can I have 5 defects or 24 defects (2%) before I lose TRS status?
24 defects but they have to be from at least 5 different buyers is how I am taking that information. So if you are a TRS and get a defect on 10 transactions each from two different buyers, and another 5 defecs on 5 more transactions from another buyer you should be ok even though you have 25, because they are
from only 3 buyers. Which I doubt that is ever going to happen so I would just go with 24 defects.
Samstag, 19. April 2014
How to list Women's Skirts and Dresses to sell on Ebay
Listing clothing on e-bay can be a challenge especially if you are new to selling clothing.I sold clothing in a store and that worked out good for me.Customers would try it on and if it fit they would buy it.But listing online is a whole other ball game.I learned the hard way by making mistakes and just did not realize all the things that should go to listing clothing.I have created this hopefully to help other newbies so you want have to find out the hard way.
I have found that most wholesale buying online is Juniors.Women's and Plus sizes are out there.butthey just don't offer alot of variety for them.I have been seeing alot of fashion clothing that is so freaking expensiveI wonder who buy this stuff.Surely not people selling online.Maybe I am old school but clothing online is very high to me.After a while of buying online everything starts to look the same.I am funny about what I don't buy online due to the world selling it.If you are lucky and can find a wholesale store in your area that is the place to check out.
Here is a check list to help ensure listing clothing:
Know what you have-women's-plus,juniors,petites etc
Buy good quality measuring tape-Always measure laying the item flat on table then measure straight across the garment.Then remember this: If underarm to underarm is 12 inches across.Then it is really 24 inches for the Bust and same goes for waist.
create a spreadsheet with these below:
Shoulder to shoulder(bust)
underarm to underarm
waist
length
Hi low Skirts-Need front length of lining and skirt and a back length. I have found all hi low skirts are not the same.Be sure to add that some like hi low skirts or dresses short and others don't.Tell them to be sure to read lining measurements to be sure it will work for them.Learned this the hard way.
Does it stretch-about how much could it stretch if someone wanted it but it is not their size
Is it fitted-loose etc
Learn the types of Dresses,Skirts etc.blouson- shift etc.
You can create a color chart or tell people about what color you think it comes close to
Remember if ever buy one size clothing.One size is not one size.Just about all of the one sizes needs to specified that they are a Junior's One size Small/Medium and also add measurements.
Another thing I found out that when selling lace bandeau,specify if they are sheer and see thru.Customers see them laying flat and think they are not see thru.Here comes bad feedback.
Create Title with everything you know about the item.So at first glance the customer can see everything they are looking for.Brand-Color-Size-New or Used-New with tags etc-(New Black Spense 100% Silk Maxi Dress Size 10 )
Always add measurements to listings.I purchased some junior's dress that were sized wrong and here we do again.Learned this the hard way.
Add pattern types-solid-plaid etc
Include all the information about shipping-returns etc in a spreadsheet then copy and paste to each listing.
Hopefully I have included everything that I learned the hard way.If I have missed something,please let me know.
I am still learning everyday.
Thanks for viewing and let me know what you think?
I have found that most wholesale buying online is Juniors.Women's and Plus sizes are out there.butthey just don't offer alot of variety for them.I have been seeing alot of fashion clothing that is so freaking expensiveI wonder who buy this stuff.Surely not people selling online.Maybe I am old school but clothing online is very high to me.After a while of buying online everything starts to look the same.I am funny about what I don't buy online due to the world selling it.If you are lucky and can find a wholesale store in your area that is the place to check out.
Here is a check list to help ensure listing clothing:
Know what you have-women's-plus,juniors,petites etc
Buy good quality measuring tape-Always measure laying the item flat on table then measure straight across the garment.Then remember this: If underarm to underarm is 12 inches across.Then it is really 24 inches for the Bust and same goes for waist.
create a spreadsheet with these below:
Shoulder to shoulder(bust)
underarm to underarm
waist
length
Hi low Skirts-Need front length of lining and skirt and a back length. I have found all hi low skirts are not the same.Be sure to add that some like hi low skirts or dresses short and others don't.Tell them to be sure to read lining measurements to be sure it will work for them.Learned this the hard way.
Does it stretch-about how much could it stretch if someone wanted it but it is not their size
Is it fitted-loose etc
Learn the types of Dresses,Skirts etc.blouson- shift etc.
You can create a color chart or tell people about what color you think it comes close to
Remember if ever buy one size clothing.One size is not one size.Just about all of the one sizes needs to specified that they are a Junior's One size Small/Medium and also add measurements.
Another thing I found out that when selling lace bandeau,specify if they are sheer and see thru.Customers see them laying flat and think they are not see thru.Here comes bad feedback.
Create Title with everything you know about the item.So at first glance the customer can see everything they are looking for.Brand-Color-Size-New or Used-New with tags etc-(New Black Spense 100% Silk Maxi Dress Size 10 )
Always add measurements to listings.I purchased some junior's dress that were sized wrong and here we do again.Learned this the hard way.
Add pattern types-solid-plaid etc
Include all the information about shipping-returns etc in a spreadsheet then copy and paste to each listing.
Hopefully I have included everything that I learned the hard way.If I have missed something,please let me know.
I am still learning everyday.
Thanks for viewing and let me know what you think?
Freitag, 18. April 2014
I've been on Ebay since the early days
Some of you might make light of the Open Letter but there is no denying that the changes Ebay has made are not in the best interests of most small time sellers. For those of you with big operations - it's a part of doing business - for we small time sellers - it's a much bigger deal.
I've been on Ebay since the early days. I stopped selling all together for 3 years until those garage sale items started to pile up so I gave it a shot again. I'm maintaining my own but Ebay will never be the power seller that it once was. Instead of sellers bullying buyers - you now have buyers bullying sellers with Ebay having their backs.
Stop and look at even the boards - we have lost so many valuable contributors in just the last 3 years. They have up and left taking their business elsewhere. Instead of culling the good sellers, use them to attract new buyers. Advertisement for Ebay is null.
Ebay will survive but has essentially died already. It is no longer known as the largest and best auction site on the net. It use to be that if you needed something - you'd look for it on Ebay. Now with the way search is going - people google it instead - sometimes they find it on Ebay - alot of times they don't or choose other venues to purchase from.
When most buyers need something - they want to walk into a store - buy it and leave. Stores offer coupons and discounts to have them browse and hopefully the buyer will find something else to buy but which they didn't need. A buyer coming to Ebay - can not find the item they want due to Cassini - they have to spend time wading through pages of everything but what they are looking for. If they do happen to find it finally, they've spent so much time that they don't bother to look at anything else. I am that buyer! I use to buy everything on Ebay - now I don't have the patience to be mucking around with listings that have nothing to do with my search.
The one buyer draw - Ebay Bucks has now also taken a hit - leaving buyers without much incentive to buy here. It's the same with stores and their small print restrictions on coupons. That's why Macys and Bonton in my area are not my go to stores - they have more coupon restrictions than JCP. They've lost lots of business due to customer frustration with these restrictions.
Ebay has it all **bleep** backwards. They are losing more buyers due to failed international sales and drop shippers than they are to the small time mom and pop shops who have an interest in succeeding by providing great customer service.
I've been on Ebay since the early days. I stopped selling all together for 3 years until those garage sale items started to pile up so I gave it a shot again. I'm maintaining my own but Ebay will never be the power seller that it once was. Instead of sellers bullying buyers - you now have buyers bullying sellers with Ebay having their backs.
Stop and look at even the boards - we have lost so many valuable contributors in just the last 3 years. They have up and left taking their business elsewhere. Instead of culling the good sellers, use them to attract new buyers. Advertisement for Ebay is null.
Ebay will survive but has essentially died already. It is no longer known as the largest and best auction site on the net. It use to be that if you needed something - you'd look for it on Ebay. Now with the way search is going - people google it instead - sometimes they find it on Ebay - alot of times they don't or choose other venues to purchase from.
When most buyers need something - they want to walk into a store - buy it and leave. Stores offer coupons and discounts to have them browse and hopefully the buyer will find something else to buy but which they didn't need. A buyer coming to Ebay - can not find the item they want due to Cassini - they have to spend time wading through pages of everything but what they are looking for. If they do happen to find it finally, they've spent so much time that they don't bother to look at anything else. I am that buyer! I use to buy everything on Ebay - now I don't have the patience to be mucking around with listings that have nothing to do with my search.
The one buyer draw - Ebay Bucks has now also taken a hit - leaving buyers without much incentive to buy here. It's the same with stores and their small print restrictions on coupons. That's why Macys and Bonton in my area are not my go to stores - they have more coupon restrictions than JCP. They've lost lots of business due to customer frustration with these restrictions.
Ebay has it all **bleep** backwards. They are losing more buyers due to failed international sales and drop shippers than they are to the small time mom and pop shops who have an interest in succeeding by providing great customer service.
We maintain a 0.19% defect rate on Amazon vs 3.20% from the new metrics just posted by eBay.
Amazon is a much tougher audience. The metrics are meaningless in eBay because they do not measure what the customer wants or expects ... they measure what eBay has established as non-sensical metrics that for the most part have nothing to do with true customer service measures. (eg with free shipping we use Economical as the baseline. 90% of our orders will ship Priority Mail. Delivery is usually 2-3 days earlier than per eBay's 5-10 day metric even with the required 1 day shipping. eg we are cited for a non-delivery using the eBay Global shipping program. We have proof of delvery to the fulfillment center & eBay shows they shipped & delivered the item. We are still cited. eg ... customer emailed us apologizing for having to file a claim through eBay ... they had a question & didn't realize clicking the button would result in claim for item not as described. eg customer tried to file claim for non-delvery through PayPal via their credit card company (fraud) which was disallowed for proof of delviery. Filed 2 negative feedbacks which eBay will not remove).
Could go on and on but after awhile it gets to sounding like bad beat stories in poker. Stuff is going to happen. And eBay's not going to change. So hang in there ... luckily the buyers are smater for the most part than eBay managment and they will recognize quality service. You just have to worry about doing what's right for the customer ... not for eBay. You'll kill yourself or go crazy trying to satisfy eBay's demands ... just listen to your customers & you'll be fine.
Could go on and on but after awhile it gets to sounding like bad beat stories in poker. Stuff is going to happen. And eBay's not going to change. So hang in there ... luckily the buyers are smater for the most part than eBay managment and they will recognize quality service. You just have to worry about doing what's right for the customer ... not for eBay. You'll kill yourself or go crazy trying to satisfy eBay's demands ... just listen to your customers & you'll be fine.
Abonnieren
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