There are several Littlest Pet Shop pets that are considered hard to find or cream of the crop collectibles. There's the Race About Ranch Kitty Cat #339, the two-toned collie dog #58, and the #577 great dane with one blue and one brown eye. Then there is the #675 dachshund puppy dog, also called Savannah.
Somehow, of the "Big Four", only dachshund #675 ever was widely copied as an aftermarket production from China. While there are many pets copied from China, most are just random selections from the LIttlest Pet Shop series and not highly sought after or high priced pets. In copying #675 and selling on eBay, the producers created some confusion in the purchase of this dachshund as an open package collectible. While many eBay sellers may market their items as "original", how do you, the buyer, really know whether this is a genuine original or an "original" reproduction?
The reproduction or after-market pets, are actually quite well made and have very little to distinguish them from the originals. If you are just looking to have the pet as a play toy, you are in luck as the cost of these after-market reproductions is dramatically less for a very similar looking pet. But if you are trying to add an original to your collection, there are a few tells.
The most obvious one and only one really visible in photos is the left eye as you are looking at the dachshund. While on the original the green and yellow lines follow the curve of the black in the eye; on the reproduction, the green and yellow line swerve downward as you can see above. The white of the eye is split in two by these lines.
The second, less obvious tell, and the only one that really affects the quality of the reproduction, is that the plastic stick that attaches the head is a bit lower quality on these. I've had one break before during shipping, whereas I've never seen a LPS head break in hundreds of other shippings. Under normal play, the head will stay attached with no problem; but if you know there will be rough play, be forewarned.
In conclusion, aftermarket may be just the way to get dachshund 675 at a reasonable cost; but you should be armed with the knowledge of what makes 675 an original versus an aftermarket pet. Happy shopping!
Sonntag, 18. Mai 2014
ecause he stated that his listings were at the very top for several years
He never said he was entitled to it, but because of his account status and achievements eBay rewarded him by placing his listings at the top. We're all familiar to that. Think about it, if your sales drop significantly in a short period of time, you would panic too. Now once you realize the reason of the dramatic decrease of your sales is due to eBay's decision to place your listings at the very bottom of its respected category then you would cal eBay too for help. This is a life changing experience. Its impact could hurt a business so bad that eventuality the business will destroy and disappear. I can speak of it because I am currently going through this depressing phase. Our business went from 1800 transactions per month down to 600 transactions. All because of some rare magical incident which has caused each and every of my listings to take a nose down dip to the bottom of the page, and no employee, supervisor, manager, account specialist, and tech support rep has a valid explanation.Rick go to the search bar and type Mercedes dia and stop at that point and look at the suggestions. you will see eBay does not reccommend the words code reader, They recommend tool. Code reader are dead keywords for this item. The reason is because it is far to specific versus the word tool, which will bring back a larger subset for a buyer to filter through with the left side bar options, which are cultivated from a few diffrerent sources including your item specifics.
You also have to look at the category they are suggesting. You have it correct for this item, but many do not, and if there are more than one suggested categpry, then you should consider paying for 2nd category. I am not saying you should automatically buy it but certainly you should consider it.
These suggestions are what eBay would like you to use for your keywords in the title, item specifics, and also in your description. These suggestions are the path that ebay is directing buyers to so it helps quite a bit to be optimized to these suggestions. By doing these things you will also do much better with external search engines. A lot of traffic can be harvested from google, yahoo, bing if you are optimized correctly.
It is OK to use Code reader in the description and perhaps even the item speciifcs. I think you should try to add a few item specifics also for this item. The more Item specifics you can use the more refined search filters you will show in. It is about getting your item in as broad a range of search results as possible.
You also have to look at the category they are suggesting. You have it correct for this item, but many do not, and if there are more than one suggested categpry, then you should consider paying for 2nd category. I am not saying you should automatically buy it but certainly you should consider it.
These suggestions are what eBay would like you to use for your keywords in the title, item specifics, and also in your description. These suggestions are the path that ebay is directing buyers to so it helps quite a bit to be optimized to these suggestions. By doing these things you will also do much better with external search engines. A lot of traffic can be harvested from google, yahoo, bing if you are optimized correctly.
It is OK to use Code reader in the description and perhaps even the item speciifcs. I think you should try to add a few item specifics also for this item. The more Item specifics you can use the more refined search filters you will show in. It is about getting your item in as broad a range of search results as possible.
Choosing the right foundation for your skin
Finding your match
When choosing a foundation for your skin one should consider the coverage they desire, whether medium to full coverage. Finding a suitable foundation that matches your complexion and giving you flawless looking skin can be tricky to get right. There are countless formulas and finishes on the market from tinted moisturizers to loose/mineral powder, not to mention the different techniques for applying them.
Finding your formula
To find your formula one must be able to determine the product that suits them.
How would you describe your skin?
A. Oily or combination
B. Dry
C. Normal
D. Sensitive
What are you trying to hide?
A. Large pores/acne/dark spots
B. Fine lines
C. Nothing but just to blend minor imperfections
D. Redness
The look you want to achieve
A. Matte
B. Dewy
C. Natural
D. Even
Your result
If you scored......
Mostly A's/Avoid oil
Foundations that contains oil can be bad for oily skin and it can cause your makeup to break down and slide off. An oil free liquid foundation with lightweight silicone that helps with pigments adhere but will not clog pores. A press powder with silica, the solid equivalent of silicone can be used to achieve the finishing touches.
Mostly B's/Go creamy
One can boost the skins hydration by using a rich anti-aging formula that contains moisturizing ingredients like glycerin. BB creams are packed with emollients, anti-aging, antioxidants and sunscreen in one tube, so it's a good choice.
Mostly C's/Lighten up
Being bless with low maintenance skinny one can wear any foundation. Sheer liquids with light-reflecting particles will give a believable finish while a tinted moisturizer that has enough pigment can even out the skin without being noticeable.
Mostly D's/Correct and cover
If you have sensitive skin then mineral makeup is just for you. It contains skin soothers, such as zinc, free of potential irritants, like fragrance and preservatives. To cover broken capillaries, redness, and discoloration a highly pigmented mineral formula is recommended. If loose powder is too messy for you then get a pressed powder.
When choosing a foundation for your skin one should consider the coverage they desire, whether medium to full coverage. Finding a suitable foundation that matches your complexion and giving you flawless looking skin can be tricky to get right. There are countless formulas and finishes on the market from tinted moisturizers to loose/mineral powder, not to mention the different techniques for applying them.
Finding your formula
To find your formula one must be able to determine the product that suits them.
How would you describe your skin?
A. Oily or combination
B. Dry
C. Normal
D. Sensitive
What are you trying to hide?
A. Large pores/acne/dark spots
B. Fine lines
C. Nothing but just to blend minor imperfections
D. Redness
The look you want to achieve
A. Matte
B. Dewy
C. Natural
D. Even
Your result
If you scored......
Mostly A's/Avoid oil
Foundations that contains oil can be bad for oily skin and it can cause your makeup to break down and slide off. An oil free liquid foundation with lightweight silicone that helps with pigments adhere but will not clog pores. A press powder with silica, the solid equivalent of silicone can be used to achieve the finishing touches.
Mostly B's/Go creamy
One can boost the skins hydration by using a rich anti-aging formula that contains moisturizing ingredients like glycerin. BB creams are packed with emollients, anti-aging, antioxidants and sunscreen in one tube, so it's a good choice.
Mostly C's/Lighten up
Being bless with low maintenance skinny one can wear any foundation. Sheer liquids with light-reflecting particles will give a believable finish while a tinted moisturizer that has enough pigment can even out the skin without being noticeable.
Mostly D's/Correct and cover
If you have sensitive skin then mineral makeup is just for you. It contains skin soothers, such as zinc, free of potential irritants, like fragrance and preservatives. To cover broken capillaries, redness, and discoloration a highly pigmented mineral formula is recommended. If loose powder is too messy for you then get a pressed powder.
IIRC from what I've seen posted on the boards the $15 coupon is a one time purchase deal.
Has anyone else noticed an increase in New 1st Time buyers? I have always gotten my fair share of them, but this week seems a bit more than usual. Here is something that has happened to me twice this week.
New buyer contacts me on Tuesday and asks me if I could raise the price on an item that I have priced at 23.88 and could I make it just over 25.00. Sounds kind of crazy, so I asked the first one why they want to pay more, and they said because ebay gave them a 15.00 off coupon for a purchase over 25.00. So I said sure, so I priced it 25.10 and they did buy the item. I guess there final purchase price was 10.10. My end still shows all the correct numbers, and the payment is correct. Yesterday the same thing for a same kind of item, I raise the price to 25.10 and they purchased it last night.
So what I thought some sellers might want to do is if you are priced just below 25.00 then consider raising your price to just over 25.00. example would be 24.95 might be better priced at 25.25.
Does anyone know if these coupon work for just one item or a whole order? If the buyer purchased several items to get to the 25.00 limit would they still be able to use the coupon?
New buyer contacts me on Tuesday and asks me if I could raise the price on an item that I have priced at 23.88 and could I make it just over 25.00. Sounds kind of crazy, so I asked the first one why they want to pay more, and they said because ebay gave them a 15.00 off coupon for a purchase over 25.00. So I said sure, so I priced it 25.10 and they did buy the item. I guess there final purchase price was 10.10. My end still shows all the correct numbers, and the payment is correct. Yesterday the same thing for a same kind of item, I raise the price to 25.10 and they purchased it last night.
So what I thought some sellers might want to do is if you are priced just below 25.00 then consider raising your price to just over 25.00. example would be 24.95 might be better priced at 25.25.
Does anyone know if these coupon work for just one item or a whole order? If the buyer purchased several items to get to the 25.00 limit would they still be able to use the coupon?
Woods used in Electric and Acoustic Guitars
Brought to you by Max's Guitar Store
The body and neck both contribute to the sound, and these components can be of single- or multi-wood construction. Also, woods of the same species cut from different trees (or grown in different regions) will sound slightly different, and have different weights, different densities, and so on. So the sonic variables exist not only between woods, but, in subtler degrees, between different guitars made from the “same” wood—which is part of the magic in searching for your dream guitar amid ten of the same model hanging on the guitar store wall. In this “All About” we’re talking about tonewoods in solidbody and semi-acoustic electrics. The properties of woods used in acoustic guitars will be tackled in another issue.
Body Woods
Alder.
[image]
As with ash, it’s impossible to discuss alder without making reference to Fender, which first used alder prominently in the late ’50s and early ’60s. It’s a medium-weight wood, although quality cuts of alder used for guitar bodies will often weigh less than denser cuts of ash. Alder has a strong, clear, full-bodied sound, with beefy mids and excellent lows. Its highs sizzle slightly, but are rarely harsh, and it offers a decent amount of sustain. Slightly brownish in its natural, dried state, alder’s grain isn’t necessarily unattractive, but it usually isn’t particularly interesting, either. It is typicaly used under opaque finishes, but some examples can look good under darker translucent finishes. Like ash, alder is most often used on its own as a body wood.
Ash.
[image]
Best known as the wood of classic ’50s Fender guitars, ash is most desirable in the form of swamp ash—wood taken from the lower portions of southern-grown wetland trees that have root systems growing below water level. Good swamp ash is both light and resonant, and generally carries a broad grain that looks great under a translucent finish. The swamp-ash sound is twangy, airy, and sweet. It offers firm lows, pleasant highs, a slightly scooped midrange, and good sustain. Ash from the upper portions of the tree has also been used, as has harder northern ash. Both tend to be denser and heavier, and have a brighter, harder sound that might be more useful when cutting, distorted tones are desired. Ash is traditionally used for single-wood, slab-bodied guitars, but has sometimes been employed by more contemporary designers in multi-wood (or laminated) bodies—most commonly with a carved-maple top, or as the top of a semi-hollow or chambered guitar with a back made from a different wood.
Basswood.
Affordable and abundant, basswood is particularly associated with mid-level or budget guitars. But basswood is a good tonewood by any standards, and it has been used by many high-end makers with excellent results. It is a very light and fairly soft wood, and it’s light in color, too, with minimal grain. Solid basswood bodies have a fat, but well-balanced tonality. There’s a muscular midrange, but also a certain softness and breathiness. On a well-made guitar, basswood can yield good dynamics and definition with enough grind to give the sound some oomph.
Korina.
Best known as the tonewood of Gibson’s radical Modernistic Series of the late 1950s—the flashy Flying V and Explorer—as well as more recent guitars that follow these templates, Korina is a warm, resonant, and balanced performer. It also yields great clarity, definition, and sustain. The species is known generically as limba—an African wood related to mahogany, but imported under the trade name Korina. It’s a fairly light hardwood with a fine grain that’s usually enhanced in the finishing process to appear as an attractive array of long, thin streaks. White limba—as used by Gibson and Hamer—has a light appearance in its natural state, and black limba has a more pronounced grain.
Mahogany.
Alongside maple, mahogany is a classic ingredient in both slab and multi-wood (or laminated) bodies, and is a common neck wood, too. It’s also used in single-wood bodies. As for the classics, the Gibson Les Paul Jr., Les Paul Special, and SG were made of solid mahogany (with mahogany necks), and countless makers have used the wood in both solid and semi-solid designs over the years. Harvested in Africa and Central America, mahogany is a fairly dense, medium-to-heavy wood that yields a wide range of guitar-body weights, depending upon stock sources. Used on its own, mahog-any’s characteristic tone is warm and somewhat soft, but well balanced with good grind and bite. There is usually good depth to the sound, with full but not especially tight lows, and appealing if unpronounced highs.
Maple.
Used for both bodies and necks, maple is a dense, hard, and heavy wood, sourced mostly in the Northeast and Northwest United States and Canada. Maple is often used as an ingredient in a multi-wood body, where it is generally partnered with a second, lighter wood. All-maple bodies aren’t unheard of—although the weight is usually off-putting—and, on its own, a maple body produces an extremely bright, precise tone with tight lows. This light-colored wood with a tightly packed grain doesn’t always carry dramatic figuring, but some examples can be spectacular, as most famously seen beneath the sunburst finish on the carved-maple tops of some Gibson Les Pauls from the late 1950s. Maple is also one of the most common ingredients of laminates used for semi-hollow electric-guitar bodies, where it contributes tightness and clarity.
Maple/Mahogany.
[image]
This is the most popular laminated body type of all time. Adding a solid maple top to a solid mahogany back yields a guitar body that exhibits many of the best tonal properties of both woods. The solid maple/mahogany body is characteristically rich, warm, and resonant. You get mahogany’s smooth, appealing lows with good sustain, as well as the extra clarity, definition, and bite added by the dense maple cap.
Poplar.
A “hardwood” by definition, poplar is actually relatively soft when compared with a range of hardwoods. It is now surfacing more and more as a body wood used in affordable, Asian-made electrics, and it displays a rather bland, characterless quality. Although well-balanced sonically, poplar bodies aren’t particularly resonant or sustaining, and they generally don’t seem to enhance any particular frequency range or overtones.
Rosewood.
This highly prized tonewood is seen frequently in fretboards, and in the backs and sides of many quality flat-top acoustics, but rarely in solidbody electrics. One notable exception was the Rosewood Telecaster that Fender produced sporadically between 1969 and 1972 and was played by George Harrison. Rosewood makes for a very heavy and overly bright-sounding guitar—and an expensive one, too—that is typically more of interest for looks and novelty factor than for tone.
Walnut.
Dense and fairly heavy, with sonic characteristics similar to those of mahogany, walnut is occasionally used in electric-guitar bodies. It tends to be warm and full, but usually with a firmer low end, and more overall tightness. Walnut’s rich brown color and often pleasing grain patterns means it looks good under a simple coat of translucent lacquer. Exotics. Woods such as purple heart, wenge, koa, bubinga, and muira piranga are used by custom guitar-makers, but don’t feature highly in mass-production guitars. These are mostly hard, dense woods with distinctive grain patterns. The colors can be appealing in their natural states, and they are usually used as one ingredient of many in a multi-wood body.
Spruce and cedar—the two most common woods for the tops of acoustic guitars—will very rarely come into the picture regarding electric-guitar construction, although makers have occasionally offered semi-hollow electrics with thin spruce tops.
Neck Woods
Mahogany/Ebony.
A popular upmarket pairing, the ebony fretboard contributes to a little more tightness, clarity, and definition, as compared to the mahogany/rosewood neck. A very dense, hard wood, ebony makes for a fast attack from the instrument—all else being equal—and it offers a muscular, controlled bass, and snappy, sizzling highs. With a mahogany back contributing some warmth and openness to the brew, this can be a very appealing pairing. Ebony also wears very well, and it doesn’t divot under years of finger-and-string pressure nearly as easily as rosewood does.
Mahogany/Rosewood.
The second most common guitar-neck wood after maple, mahogany is most often coupled with a solid mahogany or mahogany/maple-topped body. This more porous, open wood doesn’t quite have maple’s hardness, strength, or stability, however, and it isn’t suitable as a fretboard material. Mahogany has a warm, mellow tone with good presence in the lower mids. The mahogany/rosewood pairing contributes to complex highs, thick and creamy lows, and an appealing midrange that isn’t honky or excessively punchy.
Maple.
Whether in the form of a solid, one-piece neck with integral fretboard, or a neck with an added fretboard of a second type of wood (usually rosewood), maple is easily the most common type of neck wood used in solidbody guitars. A one-piece, solid maple neck contributes tightness and cut to a guitar, with an edge of sizzle in the highs, and firm lows. Its high end is usually not as over-pronounced as people might think, although it is a characteristically bright neck-wood choice. Mids tend to have a snappy attack, with a punchy, slightly gnarly edge when the strings are hit hard, but excellent clarity with light to medium picking.
Maple/Pau Ferro.
Something of a cross between ebony and rosewood tone-wise, pau ferro is a fairly hard, dense, tight-grained wood. It offers excellent clarity and definition, but has more complex highs than maple, with chunky lows, muscular lower-mids, and an airy, open midrange.
Maple/Rosewood.
Add a rosewood fretboard, and a maple neck’s tonal character becomes a little warmer and sweeter, with more sparkle in the highs and thicker lows (tending towards looser). Also, the mids tend to have a little more openness. In simple terms, rosewood’s contribution to a maple neck smooths and “furs up” the solid-maple sound. Note also that a player’s choice of an all-maple or maple/rosewood neck might come down to feel (or even appearance) as much as sound.
The body and neck both contribute to the sound, and these components can be of single- or multi-wood construction. Also, woods of the same species cut from different trees (or grown in different regions) will sound slightly different, and have different weights, different densities, and so on. So the sonic variables exist not only between woods, but, in subtler degrees, between different guitars made from the “same” wood—which is part of the magic in searching for your dream guitar amid ten of the same model hanging on the guitar store wall. In this “All About” we’re talking about tonewoods in solidbody and semi-acoustic electrics. The properties of woods used in acoustic guitars will be tackled in another issue.
Body Woods
Alder.
[image]
As with ash, it’s impossible to discuss alder without making reference to Fender, which first used alder prominently in the late ’50s and early ’60s. It’s a medium-weight wood, although quality cuts of alder used for guitar bodies will often weigh less than denser cuts of ash. Alder has a strong, clear, full-bodied sound, with beefy mids and excellent lows. Its highs sizzle slightly, but are rarely harsh, and it offers a decent amount of sustain. Slightly brownish in its natural, dried state, alder’s grain isn’t necessarily unattractive, but it usually isn’t particularly interesting, either. It is typicaly used under opaque finishes, but some examples can look good under darker translucent finishes. Like ash, alder is most often used on its own as a body wood.
Ash.
[image]
Best known as the wood of classic ’50s Fender guitars, ash is most desirable in the form of swamp ash—wood taken from the lower portions of southern-grown wetland trees that have root systems growing below water level. Good swamp ash is both light and resonant, and generally carries a broad grain that looks great under a translucent finish. The swamp-ash sound is twangy, airy, and sweet. It offers firm lows, pleasant highs, a slightly scooped midrange, and good sustain. Ash from the upper portions of the tree has also been used, as has harder northern ash. Both tend to be denser and heavier, and have a brighter, harder sound that might be more useful when cutting, distorted tones are desired. Ash is traditionally used for single-wood, slab-bodied guitars, but has sometimes been employed by more contemporary designers in multi-wood (or laminated) bodies—most commonly with a carved-maple top, or as the top of a semi-hollow or chambered guitar with a back made from a different wood.
Basswood.
Affordable and abundant, basswood is particularly associated with mid-level or budget guitars. But basswood is a good tonewood by any standards, and it has been used by many high-end makers with excellent results. It is a very light and fairly soft wood, and it’s light in color, too, with minimal grain. Solid basswood bodies have a fat, but well-balanced tonality. There’s a muscular midrange, but also a certain softness and breathiness. On a well-made guitar, basswood can yield good dynamics and definition with enough grind to give the sound some oomph.
Korina.
Best known as the tonewood of Gibson’s radical Modernistic Series of the late 1950s—the flashy Flying V and Explorer—as well as more recent guitars that follow these templates, Korina is a warm, resonant, and balanced performer. It also yields great clarity, definition, and sustain. The species is known generically as limba—an African wood related to mahogany, but imported under the trade name Korina. It’s a fairly light hardwood with a fine grain that’s usually enhanced in the finishing process to appear as an attractive array of long, thin streaks. White limba—as used by Gibson and Hamer—has a light appearance in its natural state, and black limba has a more pronounced grain.
Mahogany.
Alongside maple, mahogany is a classic ingredient in both slab and multi-wood (or laminated) bodies, and is a common neck wood, too. It’s also used in single-wood bodies. As for the classics, the Gibson Les Paul Jr., Les Paul Special, and SG were made of solid mahogany (with mahogany necks), and countless makers have used the wood in both solid and semi-solid designs over the years. Harvested in Africa and Central America, mahogany is a fairly dense, medium-to-heavy wood that yields a wide range of guitar-body weights, depending upon stock sources. Used on its own, mahog-any’s characteristic tone is warm and somewhat soft, but well balanced with good grind and bite. There is usually good depth to the sound, with full but not especially tight lows, and appealing if unpronounced highs.
Maple.
Used for both bodies and necks, maple is a dense, hard, and heavy wood, sourced mostly in the Northeast and Northwest United States and Canada. Maple is often used as an ingredient in a multi-wood body, where it is generally partnered with a second, lighter wood. All-maple bodies aren’t unheard of—although the weight is usually off-putting—and, on its own, a maple body produces an extremely bright, precise tone with tight lows. This light-colored wood with a tightly packed grain doesn’t always carry dramatic figuring, but some examples can be spectacular, as most famously seen beneath the sunburst finish on the carved-maple tops of some Gibson Les Pauls from the late 1950s. Maple is also one of the most common ingredients of laminates used for semi-hollow electric-guitar bodies, where it contributes tightness and clarity.
Maple/Mahogany.
[image]
This is the most popular laminated body type of all time. Adding a solid maple top to a solid mahogany back yields a guitar body that exhibits many of the best tonal properties of both woods. The solid maple/mahogany body is characteristically rich, warm, and resonant. You get mahogany’s smooth, appealing lows with good sustain, as well as the extra clarity, definition, and bite added by the dense maple cap.
Poplar.
A “hardwood” by definition, poplar is actually relatively soft when compared with a range of hardwoods. It is now surfacing more and more as a body wood used in affordable, Asian-made electrics, and it displays a rather bland, characterless quality. Although well-balanced sonically, poplar bodies aren’t particularly resonant or sustaining, and they generally don’t seem to enhance any particular frequency range or overtones.
Rosewood.
This highly prized tonewood is seen frequently in fretboards, and in the backs and sides of many quality flat-top acoustics, but rarely in solidbody electrics. One notable exception was the Rosewood Telecaster that Fender produced sporadically between 1969 and 1972 and was played by George Harrison. Rosewood makes for a very heavy and overly bright-sounding guitar—and an expensive one, too—that is typically more of interest for looks and novelty factor than for tone.
Walnut.
Dense and fairly heavy, with sonic characteristics similar to those of mahogany, walnut is occasionally used in electric-guitar bodies. It tends to be warm and full, but usually with a firmer low end, and more overall tightness. Walnut’s rich brown color and often pleasing grain patterns means it looks good under a simple coat of translucent lacquer. Exotics. Woods such as purple heart, wenge, koa, bubinga, and muira piranga are used by custom guitar-makers, but don’t feature highly in mass-production guitars. These are mostly hard, dense woods with distinctive grain patterns. The colors can be appealing in their natural states, and they are usually used as one ingredient of many in a multi-wood body.
Spruce and cedar—the two most common woods for the tops of acoustic guitars—will very rarely come into the picture regarding electric-guitar construction, although makers have occasionally offered semi-hollow electrics with thin spruce tops.
Neck Woods
Mahogany/Ebony.
A popular upmarket pairing, the ebony fretboard contributes to a little more tightness, clarity, and definition, as compared to the mahogany/rosewood neck. A very dense, hard wood, ebony makes for a fast attack from the instrument—all else being equal—and it offers a muscular, controlled bass, and snappy, sizzling highs. With a mahogany back contributing some warmth and openness to the brew, this can be a very appealing pairing. Ebony also wears very well, and it doesn’t divot under years of finger-and-string pressure nearly as easily as rosewood does.
Mahogany/Rosewood.
The second most common guitar-neck wood after maple, mahogany is most often coupled with a solid mahogany or mahogany/maple-topped body. This more porous, open wood doesn’t quite have maple’s hardness, strength, or stability, however, and it isn’t suitable as a fretboard material. Mahogany has a warm, mellow tone with good presence in the lower mids. The mahogany/rosewood pairing contributes to complex highs, thick and creamy lows, and an appealing midrange that isn’t honky or excessively punchy.
Maple.
Whether in the form of a solid, one-piece neck with integral fretboard, or a neck with an added fretboard of a second type of wood (usually rosewood), maple is easily the most common type of neck wood used in solidbody guitars. A one-piece, solid maple neck contributes tightness and cut to a guitar, with an edge of sizzle in the highs, and firm lows. Its high end is usually not as over-pronounced as people might think, although it is a characteristically bright neck-wood choice. Mids tend to have a snappy attack, with a punchy, slightly gnarly edge when the strings are hit hard, but excellent clarity with light to medium picking.
Maple/Pau Ferro.
Something of a cross between ebony and rosewood tone-wise, pau ferro is a fairly hard, dense, tight-grained wood. It offers excellent clarity and definition, but has more complex highs than maple, with chunky lows, muscular lower-mids, and an airy, open midrange.
Maple/Rosewood.
Add a rosewood fretboard, and a maple neck’s tonal character becomes a little warmer and sweeter, with more sparkle in the highs and thicker lows (tending towards looser). Also, the mids tend to have a little more openness. In simple terms, rosewood’s contribution to a maple neck smooths and “furs up” the solid-maple sound. Note also that a player’s choice of an all-maple or maple/rosewood neck might come down to feel (or even appearance) as much as sound.
Their cost and customs fees etc are added upfront to the buyer
On 5/14, a post titled “Ebay items or other web site” appeared on SC. It was about the website weshop.ph which maybe in the Phillipines. When I ran them on Whois, I found New York, Phillipines, & Hanoi. The have weshop.com.net.org.info.biz.&us. They copy your ebay listings, list your ebay name, feedback number, where you are, etc. I ran a test on my cheapest, & most expensive items, on one id:
My Price $6.98 + $18.52 Markup = $25.50 (but listed in PHP, Phillipine pesos) = 265% markup
My Price $69.95 + $53.46 Markup = $123.41 (but listed in PHP, Phillipine pesos) = 42% markup
OK, Can these reshippers do what they are doing on ebay, SURE. Many regular ebay sellers do it too. Pick off some item not seen by others, mislabeled, etc. Relist it for more money. That's what picking is all about. Go for it.
But here's the new wrinkle. Now they just copy your listing. ALL your listings. Your pics, words, commas, periods. Put ALL your listings up for sale on their own site. Marked up to whatever they want. Etsy sellers have been complaining about this for a while now, but those posts dealt mostly with Amazon. Now weshop is also copying listings from Etsy & Zibbet. Plus, they have all my ebay id's & listings on this site. It seems that if they have a single item, they have your whole shop. I tested other sellers posting on this board, & found their entire shops on weshop also. Go to any ebay listing, copy the title, enter it in to the weshop search box, to see if you are there. (you can't just search by ebay seller name). SO WHAT, your exposure is increased enormously. SELL IT, SHIP IT, RIGHT?
Maybe, but what worries me, is that there will be all kinds of these websites pop up, eventually with your items listed on 20 to 40, to who knows how many sites. They have little invested, & it seems they do it mostly with robots. They can easily put a copy of your listing up, then take an order from a customer of theirs. The customer clicks BIN, the order goes to the reshipper, but in just a couple of seconds, before the reshipper confirms the BIN to the buyer, they pick it off ebay, and then confirm the BIN to their customer. If it should happen to be gone, they probably just go back & say “Sorry, it has been sold, please act faster next time”.
Anyway, if they are ligit, & treat their customers right, you may never hear about it. But sooner or later, this will become a scam. Set up the site. Sell some stuff. Then when you get big enough, cheat the buyers, or sellers, or ebay or paypal, or a combination of them, & take off.
When the items get returned, will these sites honor returns? What if they cheat the buyer? I wouldn't care, except that MY NAME is attached to THEIR RESELLING / RESHIPPING business, All the ebay info/links are on there. It is My reputation & My feedback, My Ebay Id, My Etsy Id, My Zibbet Id, & eventually My Own WEBSITE. What if there's a big accident, and the reseller won't handle it, or tells the customer it must have come to him broke?
Say you sent a 100.00 well packed, fragile item to the reshipper. They packed/repacked it poorly. It broke in shipping & their customer returned it to him, maybe even still in your packaging. Maybe something fell on it. Maybe the container door slammed shut on it. They MAY NOW have the time to return it to you, for refund/snad/etc. With returns on Ebay at 90 days during the holidays, & paypal at 180 days, these could easily be returned to us, without any obvious proof that they were shipped through a reseller. Imagine how many of those fights there will be with ebay. (plus GSP may become mandatory).
“If you can't afford to lose it, & pay for the privilege to do so, don't list it here” - is good advice. I can't afford to lose my best profit, $75.00 - $200.00 items. I have a lot of that kind of vintage stuff, most of which I list elsewhere. I'm thinking more & more of my stuff is going back to the B&M. If Ebay & the other sites can't help here, I'm just gonna remove everything over $20.00. I can afford the $20.00 stuff, assuming it's only a few every day. :smileylol: Will Ebay care? Why would they? Somebody else is re-listing all the ebay listings. No work for ebay. Bigger audience. Same (actually more) final value fees.
My Price $6.98 + $18.52 Markup = $25.50 (but listed in PHP, Phillipine pesos) = 265% markup
My Price $69.95 + $53.46 Markup = $123.41 (but listed in PHP, Phillipine pesos) = 42% markup
OK, Can these reshippers do what they are doing on ebay, SURE. Many regular ebay sellers do it too. Pick off some item not seen by others, mislabeled, etc. Relist it for more money. That's what picking is all about. Go for it.
But here's the new wrinkle. Now they just copy your listing. ALL your listings. Your pics, words, commas, periods. Put ALL your listings up for sale on their own site. Marked up to whatever they want. Etsy sellers have been complaining about this for a while now, but those posts dealt mostly with Amazon. Now weshop is also copying listings from Etsy & Zibbet. Plus, they have all my ebay id's & listings on this site. It seems that if they have a single item, they have your whole shop. I tested other sellers posting on this board, & found their entire shops on weshop also. Go to any ebay listing, copy the title, enter it in to the weshop search box, to see if you are there. (you can't just search by ebay seller name). SO WHAT, your exposure is increased enormously. SELL IT, SHIP IT, RIGHT?
Maybe, but what worries me, is that there will be all kinds of these websites pop up, eventually with your items listed on 20 to 40, to who knows how many sites. They have little invested, & it seems they do it mostly with robots. They can easily put a copy of your listing up, then take an order from a customer of theirs. The customer clicks BIN, the order goes to the reshipper, but in just a couple of seconds, before the reshipper confirms the BIN to the buyer, they pick it off ebay, and then confirm the BIN to their customer. If it should happen to be gone, they probably just go back & say “Sorry, it has been sold, please act faster next time”.
Anyway, if they are ligit, & treat their customers right, you may never hear about it. But sooner or later, this will become a scam. Set up the site. Sell some stuff. Then when you get big enough, cheat the buyers, or sellers, or ebay or paypal, or a combination of them, & take off.
When the items get returned, will these sites honor returns? What if they cheat the buyer? I wouldn't care, except that MY NAME is attached to THEIR RESELLING / RESHIPPING business, All the ebay info/links are on there. It is My reputation & My feedback, My Ebay Id, My Etsy Id, My Zibbet Id, & eventually My Own WEBSITE. What if there's a big accident, and the reseller won't handle it, or tells the customer it must have come to him broke?
Say you sent a 100.00 well packed, fragile item to the reshipper. They packed/repacked it poorly. It broke in shipping & their customer returned it to him, maybe even still in your packaging. Maybe something fell on it. Maybe the container door slammed shut on it. They MAY NOW have the time to return it to you, for refund/snad/etc. With returns on Ebay at 90 days during the holidays, & paypal at 180 days, these could easily be returned to us, without any obvious proof that they were shipped through a reseller. Imagine how many of those fights there will be with ebay. (plus GSP may become mandatory).
“If you can't afford to lose it, & pay for the privilege to do so, don't list it here” - is good advice. I can't afford to lose my best profit, $75.00 - $200.00 items. I have a lot of that kind of vintage stuff, most of which I list elsewhere. I'm thinking more & more of my stuff is going back to the B&M. If Ebay & the other sites can't help here, I'm just gonna remove everything over $20.00. I can afford the $20.00 stuff, assuming it's only a few every day. :smileylol: Will Ebay care? Why would they? Somebody else is re-listing all the ebay listings. No work for ebay. Bigger audience. Same (actually more) final value fees.
I get a message from him complaining about damages to the items
I have a buyer that purchased something back in April and was delivered back on April 10th (he paid for parcel and I upgraded him to priority free of charge). I hadn't heard anything from him so I just assumed everything was fine.
Fast forward to today, I get a message from him complaining about damages to the items. It's been over a month since it was delivered. I told him I'm happy to provide a full refund upon return or we can try to file a claim (since it had the free priority insurance on it) but I wasn't sure with how long ago it was delivered if a claim would even be okay to do.
Is this the correct recourse? I know there's like, a million questions/issues going on with the new defect system. I don't have a lot of defects so if I need to have the items returned, it's not TOO big of a thing but I just find it weird it's taken him over a month to look these things over.That is about the best you can do so far.
But with the amount of time that has passed since it was delivered, you might want to ask the buyer what country they are in and did they use a reshipper. Reshippers are notorious for repacking items and they can get damaged that way. On the plus side for you, the buyer loses buyer protection when the items are shipped out of the country. Did you ship to Kentucky, you might be in ebay's Global Shipping Program and not know it.
And why didn't you just hop in the TARDIS and deliver it yourself?
Fast forward to today, I get a message from him complaining about damages to the items. It's been over a month since it was delivered. I told him I'm happy to provide a full refund upon return or we can try to file a claim (since it had the free priority insurance on it) but I wasn't sure with how long ago it was delivered if a claim would even be okay to do.
Is this the correct recourse? I know there's like, a million questions/issues going on with the new defect system. I don't have a lot of defects so if I need to have the items returned, it's not TOO big of a thing but I just find it weird it's taken him over a month to look these things over.That is about the best you can do so far.
But with the amount of time that has passed since it was delivered, you might want to ask the buyer what country they are in and did they use a reshipper. Reshippers are notorious for repacking items and they can get damaged that way. On the plus side for you, the buyer loses buyer protection when the items are shipped out of the country. Did you ship to Kentucky, you might be in ebay's Global Shipping Program and not know it.
And why didn't you just hop in the TARDIS and deliver it yourself?
Abonnieren
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